TeamSwift

Home of the Suzuki mini-compacts ! Your Home for all things Suzuki Swift, Geo Metro, Holden Barina, Chevy Sprint, Pontiac Firefly, and Suzuki Cultus. TeamSwift is a technical performance oriented community!
It is currently Mon Oct 23, 2017 12:38 pm

Underbody braces, turbos and more!

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 28 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: 20% drop in fuel economy
PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 2:55 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:38 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Belle Plaine, Ks
Hey all,
I have a '87 Sprint with 1L, 5-spd. I was getting 52-53 mpgs. Now it's only getting just barely 40. I checked the tires; they're all good with 35 psi in each. I replaced the air filter, even though it wasn't all that bad. I checked the pcv; it still rattles ok. The plugs and wires are only about 20K miles old. The wires still look good; no arcing at night. I need to get a deeper 13/16 socket to pull the plugs, but since the motor sounds as good as ever, I don't think that'll be the problem. That's my project this evening (pulling a plug). Any idea what else would cause such a sharp drop in economy? Like I said, the motor still sounds fine. It never did have a lot of power, so I'm not sure, but I THINK it may have a little less than normal. I think it's taking me a little longer to get to 55 than it used to, but ain't sure. :) :) I know the cold weather will make some difference, but I wouldn't think it'd make that much.
Any ideas would be greatly apreciated.
Thanks for the input.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 2:59 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:08 pm
Posts: 1254
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
It could be a combination of colder weather (is it cold there in KS?) and possible engine issues like poor quality gasoline, dirty fuel filter, or even internal problems. While you are pulling the plugs, get a compression tester and test the compression in all cylinders. Post those #s here.

_________________
Image
  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 10:31 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:38 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Belle Plaine, Ks
I pulled the plugs last night and checked the compression. All 3 cylinders had 120 to 125 psi. But the plugs was another matter: Two of them looked good; the 3rd had a major problem. Nearly all the electrode was gone! It only had a small sharp nub that was almost to the insulation. There was about a quarter inch gap between that electode and the outside of the plug. I wonder how something like that could happen. I KNOW the plug was good when I put it in about 20K miles ago. I couldn't hear any ticking like the motor was missing or anything, but it sure couldn't have been running right with that plug in there!!
One of the wires pulled the end off when I took it off, too, so tonight I'll be getting some new wires. We'll see if that solves my drop in economy problem.
Any idea what would cause the electrode to decay like that? I sure hope it's not got part of it still inside the cylinder or did any damage when (if) it came out through the exhaust.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 11:01 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:38 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Belle Plaine, Ks
Also one thing I forgot to report: When I pulled the plug that was bad, it was pretty loose. It certainly wasn't as tight in the block as the other two. I don't know if that would make a difference or not, but.......


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 9:06 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:08 pm
Posts: 1254
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Get the new plugs and wires and let us know. BTW, minimum compression is 156 PSI according to 2 of my manuals.

_________________
Image
  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:30 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:38 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Belle Plaine, Ks
JohnnyMullet wrote:
Get the new plugs and wires and let us know. BTW, minimum compression is 156 PSI according to 2 of my manuals.



156? Uh oh!! I got 120, 120, and about 123. It does use a little oil, but very little. I commute just over 50 miles a day, so do mostly highway driving; so I change my oil every 5K miles. At abut 3500 miles or so, I add 1 quart. I take it that means my rings are starting to leak a little, but is it enough to be a problem?
I changed the plugs and wires last night and will let you know if that helped my mileage to get back right.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 2:30 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 6:52 am
Posts: 228
Location: Fort Atkinson WI
Did you check your compression correctly? I made the mistake of doing it wrong and getting freaked out. How cold is it in Kansas? I went from 50-51MPG to probably around 40MPG with the cold weather and increased idle times while I scrap the windows clean.

_________________
Just when I thought I was about to get back on my own 2 feet life kicked me in the shorts.

94 GEO METRO PARTS FOR SALE EVERYTHING MUST GO!!!!
94 XFI rust bucket
96 Honda Accord


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:08 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:08 pm
Posts: 1254
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
I concur on the compression test. Coil wire off, plugs all out, full throttle, 3 mississippi's :)

_________________
Image
  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 8:29 am 
Offline
Bozo the crying clown

Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:19 am
Posts: 414
Location: Chester County PA
When was the last time you replaced the O2 sensors? After portingthe head and replacing the headgasket, my car had GREAT power (for a G10) ;-) and drove poerfectly, but the mileage was crap. Started getting cel's about p0134 and p0171. (intermittantly)
I thought maybe I had an exhaust leak....checked everything....nothing to be found.......Then the O2 sensor gave up the ghost. I swapped it last night and what a difference!!!!! I filled up last night and my gas gauge barely moved after driving in to work this morning. MUCH better throttle response too. I guess the coolant/oil from the HG blowing (a ways back) spooged up the O2 sensor. It was cruddy looking when I removed the old one. Put in a new Bosch jobby and life is EVEN BETTER! =)


Worth a shot, dude......BTW....would a car even start with compression at 120????besides, it'd probably look like James Bond's car goin' down the road, if the rings were THAT bad. ;-)


Jimmy


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 11:47 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:38 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Belle Plaine, Ks
JohnnyMullet wrote:
I concur on the compression test. Coil wire off, plugs all out, full throttle, 3 mississippi's :)



Looks like I messed up on how I checked the compression. :oops: I only pulled 1 plug at a time, checked that cylinder, replaced that plug, moved on to the next cylinder, etc. Also, I did not touch the throttle while cranking. I DID take off the coil wire and count to 5!!! You're saying I need to remove ALL plugs at once, then open the throttle all the way, then crank and count to 3(or 5)? I'll give that a shot and see if my readings change. Sure hope so......


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:05 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:38 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Belle Plaine, Ks
thinkmoto wrote:
Did you check your compression correctly? I made the mistake of doing it wrong and getting freaked out. How cold is it in Kansas? I went from 50-51MPG to probably around 40MPG with the cold weather and increased idle times while I scrap the windows clean.


The temp here at night is between 5 to 30 degrees and our highs range from 25 to about 55. I wouldn't think that would cause a 20% drop in mileage, but who knows? If nothing else pans out, maybe that'll be the culprit. Can't change the weather, though!! I park under a carport, so don't have to scrape the windows and I don't let it idle to warm up; I just fire it up and drive off. It warms up while I'm driving!!
I might not have checked my compression right. See my previous post. :oops: :oops:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:10 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:38 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Belle Plaine, Ks
jimmyjr wrote:
When was the last time you replaced the O2 sensors? After portingthe head and replacing the headgasket, my car had GREAT power (for a G10) ;-) and drove poerfectly, but the mileage was crap. Started getting cel's about p0134 and p0171. (intermittantly)
I thought maybe I had an exhaust leak....checked everything....nothing to be found.......Then the O2 sensor gave up the ghost. I swapped it last night and what a difference!!!!! I filled up last night and my gas gauge barely moved after driving in to work this morning. MUCH better throttle response too. I guess the coolant/oil from the HG blowing (a ways back) spooged up the O2 sensor. It was cruddy looking when I removed the old one. Put in a new Bosch jobby and life is EVEN BETTER! =)


Worth a shot, dude......BTW....would a car even start with compression at 120????besides, it'd probably look like James Bond's car goin' down the road, if the rings were THAT bad. ;-)


Jimmy


Thanks for the thought on the O2 sensor. If the plugs and wires don't solve my problem, I'll look into the sensor. I hate to just start replacing things without knowing they're bad, though. That could just go on and on and on...How do you know if the O2 sensor is bad? I'm not getting any check engine light or anything.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 3:52 pm 
Offline
Bozo the crying clown

Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:19 am
Posts: 414
Location: Chester County PA
They should be replaced at 100k....Mine wasn't consistently throwing codes....Every 2 days or so while sitting at a stop light...it would come on.......Night and day difference after the swap...MUCH snappier........just have to touch the gas to get the car to move. (as opposed to mashin' the gas pedal)

Jimmy


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 9:56 am 
Offline

Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 6:52 am
Posts: 228
Location: Fort Atkinson WI
1Ray wrote:
thinkmoto wrote:
Did you check your compression correctly? I made the mistake of doing it wrong and getting freaked out. How cold is it in Kansas? I went from 50-51MPG to probably around 40MPG with the cold weather and increased idle times while I scrap the windows clean.


The temp here at night is between 5 to 30 degrees and our highs range from 25 to about 55. I wouldn't think that would cause a 20% drop in mileage, but who knows? If nothing else pans out, maybe that'll be the culprit. Can't change the weather, though!! I park under a carport, so don't have to scrape the windows and I don't let it idle to warm up; I just fire it up and drive off. It warms up while I'm driving!!
I might not have checked my compression right. See my previous post. :oops: :oops:


Don't sweat the compression test misque. i did it then found the correct procedure and rechecked. I still have a weak cylinder but whatever :P gonna run her till she pukes or the floor falls out. Block off the front opening on your car completely with rubber metal anything. It helps the car will warm up much quicker.

_________________
Just when I thought I was about to get back on my own 2 feet life kicked me in the shorts.

94 GEO METRO PARTS FOR SALE EVERYTHING MUST GO!!!!
94 XFI rust bucket
96 Honda Accord


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 12:21 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:38 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Belle Plaine, Ks
Don't sweat the compression test misque. i did it then found the correct procedure and rechecked. I still have a weak cylinder but whatever :P gonna run her till she pukes or the floor falls out. Block off the front opening on your car completely with rubber metal anything. It helps the car will warm up much quicker.[/quote]


I'm not going to obsess about the compression. Just like you, I'm going to drive my Matchbox car til it quits or til the bottom falls off. More likely it'll be the latter. I bought it a couple years ago from a man in Minneapolis, and it had quite a bit of rust underneath it. The outside of the body looks good; all the bad stuff is underneath. :shock: :shock: I actually had to replace the gas tank; it was nearly rusted clean through!!
At the time, it took me $290 to fly to Minneapolis and $32 to drive it home. :D :D
Anyways, I AM curious about the compression, so I will check it again the correct way soon. This weekend if the weather co-operates. I don't have a heated garage, so if it's in the 30's or so, I will wait for a better day....
Thanks for all the input


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 2:55 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2008 9:31 pm
Posts: 39
Location: minnesota
idk if 5 to 30 degrees will change it that much...i know here in minnesota the -20 nights really like to mess with gas mileage...it drops my truck from about 14 in town to about 8 or so....stays to about 16 on the highway tho

_________________
1997 Ford F-150- 4.6L:SOLD

new truck: 1995 Chev silverado-5.7L: dual exhaust with 6" tips...more to come soon

1991 geo metro- auto- 3 cylinder: custom exhaust( 6" pak to a 4" chrome tip)
currently dead...anyone interested in buying it?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 10:35 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun May 25, 2008 11:26 pm
Posts: 70
Location: Port Orchard, Washington USA
Quote:
Thanks for the thought on the O2 sensor. If the plugs and wires don't solve my problem, I'll look into the sensor. I hate to just start replacing things without knowing they're bad, though.


Test it with a propane torch and a volt meter!!!!!

After you have rechecked the compression. If it is low (less than 150) and if you want the best performance and fuel economy do a "valve job" to get the compression up over 175.

While you have the head off cut "Singh groves" in it.

As stated by others, block off the front of the car and make sure your tires are well inflated.

Those are the three biggest fuel economy gains/losses on a Metro: Compression/Groves, Tires, Grill blocking.

TH
www.livesteaming.com/metro.htm


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 4:12 pm 
Offline
Bozo the crying clown

Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:19 am
Posts: 414
Location: Chester County PA
Just curious.......Did you check your pcv valve?



Jimmy


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 4:17 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:38 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Belle Plaine, Ks
TrevorHeath wrote:
Quote:
Thanks for the thought on the O2 sensor. If the plugs and wires don't solve my problem, I'll look into the sensor. I hate to just start replacing things without knowing they're bad, though.


Test it with a propane torch and a volt meter!!!!!

After you have rechecked the compression. If it is low (less than 150) and if you want the best performance and fuel economy do a "valve job" to get the compression up over 175.

While you have the head off cut "Singh groves" in it.

As stated by others, block off the front of the car and make sure your tires are well inflated.

Those are the three biggest fuel economy gains/losses on a Metro: Compression/Groves, Tires, Grill blocking.

TH
http://www.livesteaming.com/metro.htm





A) I don't have a propane torch and if I did, I don't know how to use it to test an O2 sensor.
B) What the $@$## is a "Singh grove"?
C) My tires are well inflated, and what good would blocking off the front of my car do? It heats up real quick (within about 3 miles) and I drive it at least 26 miles each way to work and home. Blocking off my radiator might make it overheat. If the thermostat is woriknig good, how would blocking off the front of the car help?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 4:18 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:38 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Belle Plaine, Ks
jimmyjr wrote:
Just curious.......Did you check your pcv valve?



Jimmy


Thanks for the input. As I said in an earlier post, yes, I did check the pcv valve and it rattles just fine. :) :)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 10:49 am 
Offline
Bozo the crying clown

Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:19 am
Posts: 414
Location: Chester County PA
Mine rattled too, but was bad....make sure that air only blows thru ONE WAY.....

A ways back....mine was clogged, then I cleaned it and it was open all the time. :-( Then I was off to the parts store for a new one. ;-)




Jimmy


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:06 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Well, 1Ray...
Several thoughts come to mind.
Using: "The last thing you did to it is what probably screwed it up" I notice you've replaced the gas tank.
When you swap a tank, there can be sediment which gets lodged into the fuel filter.
A change of weather might make it more apparent, and of course, changing the fuel filter or filters would certainly help you on your way...a quick cheap fix.
Secondy, the rubber hoses which wind their way around your carburetor have a tendency to crack with age.
In the midwest, they sometimes spray a certain fluid around the base of the carb...using a reed to concentrate the spray...and listen to see if the idle changes. If it does, then maybe one of the hoses is sucking air.
Next, (because there's nothing like a vacuum leak to lean out the engine, give great mileage, but suck a valve) you have several vacuum operated servos on that 87...

The distributor vacuum advance...it's just one hose, right?
the idle up actuator
the secondary butterfly in the carb is what opens the secondaries...you say you have low power?
I doubt you have A/C, but if you did, the A/C idle up is vacuum activated...
The cold air/second air valve, if you have one also is included in this group
Last, the choke pull off is notorious for failing...that is...it leaks.

So you have a few places to look for loose, cracked hoses:
EGR if you have it
VSV
Power Brake Booster

and you might figure there is an electrical problem with one of the parts of the carb:
-fuel cut solenoid might be finally giving up the ghost (not likely)
-bowl vent solenoid might not be opening (is it hot to the touch when idling for 5 min or so)
-MCS (mixture control solenoid) is very temperature sensitive, since its doing 16 'oscillations' per second...there's a duty plug you short to test it
-idle and wide open throttle (WOT) microswitches have a tit which wears down with age...

The boys out your way will have a Chiltons, you can start with a Haynes, but I couldn't find some of the tests you might want to do before you go throwing money in the wrong direction (Oxygen sensor, for example) in those two... the best book is the Chevrolet 1987 Service Manual which can give very explicit instructions for each of the component testing.

To get the maximum life out of that engine, you simply get all the little components working properly. It might sound like a lot of work, but if you tackle it one little component at a time, you can have the whole thing tested out in less than an hour...no sweat.

If you don't do it right the first time, you may be setting yourself up for a major engine refresh. So in the long run, now is the time to avoid taking 'shortcuts', and figure out which of the above mentioned components work right, and which ones aren't working they way they're supposed to work.

By the way, if one cylinder is burning so hot that you fried a spark plug, chances are you've burned an exhaust valve already...sorry if it isn't great news...and it won't fix itself.
You might consider checking for vacuum leaks, etc. and getting the parts together to do the engine when the weather warms up and just nursing it along for now.

Good luck.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 8:47 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:38 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Belle Plaine, Ks
Man, is it morning already? :? :? My son and his wife came over last night and we stayed up way too late playing WII. But I do like that Zelda!! Now I'm sucking on my coffee trying to wake up.
Anyways, thanks to all who have given me ideas to check on for my drop in mileage. The car still runs fine, so if the plugs and wires haven't fixed the problem, hopefully I won't hurt the motor any more by driving it til I get a little warmer weather to do more in depth checking. Unfortunately, I don't have a heated garage to work in. :( I'll know this weekend if the plugs helped or not when I fill up and check the mileage. I'll let you all know Monday.
It's supposed to warm up into the 40's and maybe even the 50's next week. Hope so, anyway.
HAVE A HAPPY FRIDAY!! :D :D :D


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 10:39 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:38 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Belle Plaine, Ks
Phil N Ed wrote:
Well, 1Ray...
Several thoughts come to mind.
Using: "The last thing you did to it is what probably screwed it up" I notice you've replaced the gas tank.
When you swap a tank, there can be sediment which gets lodged into the fuel filter.
A change of weather might make it more apparent, and of course, changing the fuel filter or filters would certainly help you on your way...a quick cheap fix.
Secondy, the rubber hoses which wind their way around your carburetor have a tendency to crack with age.
In the midwest, they sometimes spray a certain fluid around the base of the carb...using a reed to concentrate the spray...and listen to see if the idle changes. If it does, then maybe one of the hoses is sucking air.
Next, (because there's nothing like a vacuum leak to lean out the engine, give great mileage, but suck a valve) you have several vacuum operated servos on that 87...

The distributor vacuum advance...it's just one hose, right?
the idle up actuator
the secondary butterfly in the carb is what opens the secondaries...you say you have low power?
I doubt you have A/C, but if you did, the A/C idle up is vacuum activated...
The cold air/second air valve, if you have one also is included in this group
Last, the choke pull off is notorious for failing...that is...it leaks.

So you have a few places to look for loose, cracked hoses:
EGR if you have it
VSV
Power Brake Booster

and you might figure there is an electrical problem with one of the parts of the carb:
-fuel cut solenoid might be finally giving up the ghost (not likely)
-bowl vent solenoid might not be opening (is it hot to the touch when idling for 5 min or so)
-MCS (mixture control solenoid) is very temperature sensitive, since its doing 16 'oscillations' per second...there's a duty plug you short to test it
-idle and wide open throttle (WOT) microswitches have a tit which wears down with age...

The boys out your way will have a Chiltons, you can start with a Haynes, but I couldn't find some of the tests you might want to do before you go throwing money in the wrong direction (Oxygen sensor, for example) in those two... the best book is the Chevrolet 1987 Service Manual which can give very explicit instructions for each of the component testing.

To get the maximum life out of that engine, you simply get all the little components working properly. It might sound like a lot of work, but if you tackle it one little component at a time, you can have the whole thing tested out in less than an hour...no sweat.

If you don't do it right the first time, you may be setting yourself up for a major engine refresh. So in the long run, now is the time to avoid taking 'shortcuts', and figure out which of the above mentioned components work right, and which ones aren't working they way they're supposed to work.

By the way, if one cylinder is burning so hot that you fried a spark plug, chances are you've burned an exhaust valve already...sorry if it isn't great news...and it won't fix itself.
You might consider checking for vacuum leaks, etc. and getting the parts together to do the engine when the weather warms up and just nursing it along for now.

Good luck.



Sure apreciate all the advice. I checked my mileage when I filled up the other day and it is still only 43, so changing the plugs and wires didn't help, although they needed changed.
From some of what you said:
Changing the tank wasn't the last thing I did; I did that right after buying the car, nearly 2 years ago.
I DO have a/c.
I do not have power brakes!
I will try to check all the vaccuums and electric items you mentioned. What is a VSV?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 7:43 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:38 pm
Posts: 79
Location: Belle Plaine, Ks
Hey all,
I started this thread about 3 1/2 months ago when I noticed a significant drop in my fuel economy and couldn't figure out why. I got lots of advice and info, but STILL couldn't find anything wrong with the way my little matchbox car ran, but it only got low 40's instead of the low 50's I was used to. I've been consistantly getting 42-43 mpg ever since then.
Now all of a sudden this morning I filled up and what do you know, I got 48.6!! :D :D What gives?
Is the weather that much of a factor? :?: It hasn't been below 45 for all this tank, but I have a hard time believing that's the reason for the increase. But nothing else has changed. The car still runs just fine like it has all through this time. Unless there's a little gremlin inside my Sprint messing things up, then fixing them, I don't know what else to contribute the sudden increas of mileage to. I guess I'll just keep on keeping on and see if I get back to the low 50's as the weather continues to warm up.
Has anyone else had this kind of situation come up??????
Thanks for all the info I've gotten over the last few months.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 28 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group