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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 7:26 pm 
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I made a drive up to Toronto on Sunday night, got back Tuesday afternoon with a heap of sweet swift parts. Pics forthcoming...

Teaser:
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'99 Metro Sedan Auto 4cyl, '91 Metro Vert 3/5, '91 Metro 5dr 3cyl auto


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 7:28 pm 
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I met up with Steve AKA crash.recon.guy from here@teamswift. He had a '92(I believe)Swift on its way to the scrapyard with most of an '89 GTi stuffed inside it. We went over what was worth taking and hopefully picked it over pretty well before it goes off to meet its demise. Here's my new GT seat, I put this in before my return trip. Unfortunately he only had the driver seat, but it is the one I'm usually using :D
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I also picked up a set of power windows, power mirrors, and the GTi inner door panels, which are a lot nicer than the metro ones. Here's some before/after shots:
mirrors
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door panels and power windows
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New mirror switch beside my cruise lever, which I still need to attach:
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I finally also installed my less scratched drivers side window:
[mg]http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4144/5034246241_b7ec02609b.jpg[/img]

Now a quick breakdown of the issues involved, in case someone wants to do the same, its not just drop in unfortunately.
I had to switch out both track parts on the regulators for the convertible ones so they would bolt in correctly, here's a shot of the main rail switched out:
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While the electric regulator uses a different bolt pattern than the hand crank, fortunately, the other 4 holes are present:
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New regulator in, waiting for the glass:
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The inner door panel's top portion had to be switched for the convertible one, there is a slight shape difference in the two, probably due to the frameless windows in the convertible.

So all the parts are in, just have to wire them into the main harness for power.

I also picked up a set of GT front brakes, these are much larger than even the vented rotors, and will not fit inside 13" wheels, so I'll need a wheel upgrade before these go on. And rear disc E brake cables, proportioning valve GT rear sway bar and mounts.
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I got a trunk/fuel door release set with the correct fuel door, I'm planning on putting the fuel door on the 'vert and the trunk release on the 5 door

I also grabbed a set of very good condition fog lights:
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And if anyone is interested, the side pieces for a rear shelf and 1 & 1/2 Mk2 GTi tail lights are for sale, all in excellent condition:
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 10:05 pm 
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I got the GT front bumper on today, screwed up the paint, so I gotta sand and repaint it sometime. But overall it looks pretty good.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 6:23 pm 
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That looks way better....now for some driving lights. :D :D :shock: :shock: :oops:


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:22 pm 
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Got it!
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 7:52 pm 
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Before and after with the new front:
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 8:49 pm 
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looking awesome! :D

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 1:40 pm 
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It's got a little bit of low growl to it now... nice!

I didn't know power windows were ever an option. I'll have to keep my eyes out for a set of those :)

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'Noisy Cricket' build thread http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46988


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 2:08 pm 
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I pulled the power regulators out of a mk3 GT, you have to change out the part that attaches to the window, and the slide thing with the long oval hole that attaches to the door to fit the convertible.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 7:45 pm 
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Took forever today to get the power windows/mirrors wired up, turns out they changed the wiring configuration, but not the plug design for the power windows from the mk2 to mk3, so I had to change the wires via trial and error. I finally found the power window diagram posted by lihtan a while back:
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 9:05 pm 
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how did you get the power wiring into the doors for the mirrors and windows?

i know it a tight shot, but see if you can get a pic or 2 of the wiring entry points on the door frames.

like most americans, i've never seen the swift power windows up close and personal. :lol:

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

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My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 9:35 pm 
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The convertible had the holes in both the body and doors for the power equipment, there was a plug on the body side, and tape on the door. I grabbed the door harness which had the wiring for the mirrors and windows along with the section that went into the cabin with the rubber wire covers that go between when I got the mirrors and windows. The door end of the rubber snorkel thing just pushes into the door, and the car end has 4 plastic teeth that hold it in place. It was a real PITA to get it run without taking the doors off, not much space between to wedge my hands in there to manipulate it into place, but I got it! I'll take some shots tomorrow in the daylight.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2010 11:06 pm 
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A little preview of my next project:
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I've got my basement set up as a drying booth for my paint since its too cool/humid outside fort proper paint curing.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 3:25 pm 
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Here's a closeup of the door harness to car rubber tube:
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closeup of car side and door side:
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On the inside of the car, the wires come through behind the kickplate that is right in front of the main door threshold plastic.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 4:19 pm 
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thanks matt. :D

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

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My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 09, 2010 10:43 pm 
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Mcmancuso wrote:
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On the inside of the car, the wires come through behind the kickplate that is right in front of the main door threshold plastic.


I was always kind of wondering what those were for on a vert?

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'Noisy Cricket' build thread http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=46988


Last edited by incorrigible on Sun Oct 10, 2010 8:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 10, 2010 7:41 pm 
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Now I've just got to cram a set of power door locks in there, it's going to be a pain to get two more wires through that rubber tube, there are already 6 going through it for the windows/mirrors. Anyone know where there's a good ACC tied 12V wire to tie into under the dash? The power windows are too much draw for the radio harness.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 1:22 pm 
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I color matched the mirrors this week:
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one was lack, the other dark metallic blue, so much better. I've also been doing some minor body work, trying to touch up a few rust spots and dents. I have also discovered I'm terrible at body work, really terrible at it. anyone in the southeast any good at it, I could use help ;)

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2010 1:23 pm 
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Anyone got a set of red mk2/3 door handles they're not using?

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 4:49 pm 
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well, I wrecked this car back in November:
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no injuries, just bent metal :(

Then, I moved to Texas and bought another one This February :D
Heres the craigslist pic:
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Asking $700 said it ran but not drivable due to no inspection.
I picked up some valid Tennessee plated I had and went to get it with a friend...
I talked him down to $625 :D
10 miles away the car dies, bad alternator, I had another 90 miles to go...
Swapped batteries with his honda accord, and made the rest of the drive at night...
Headlights were getting pretty dim by the time I pulled into my place...
Next day I went to a local yard and got a new alternator for $30, been working fine since.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 4:52 pm 
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I found the car lacking power, and confirmed a bad exhaust valve along with some other problems. I figured I'd just rebuild the engine.
Cam and distributor seal oil leaks have made a mess of the engine.
Taking the engine up to my apt for dis-assembly:
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Head off:
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Here's the burnt exhaust valve:
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While I was at it I've decided to cryo all the steel parts as I rebuild it, here's my first batch (head bolts, rings, lifters, valves, valve springs/retainers etc... pretty much everything in the head except the cam)
First cooled to ~-100F in dry ice:
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then cooled to ~-300F in liquid nitrogen:
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These will stay at -300 overnight, then allow to warm to room temp, then oven @350F the next evening.

Next batch will be the rods, then I need to find a cooler big enough for the differential, transmission gear sets, cam, crank, flywheel and pressure plate(not all at the same time).

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 4:53 pm 
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Here's my pile of clean parts, ready to be re-assembled:
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I'm waiting on a bearing set, belts, and rear main seal and I'll have everything.
I've still got to scrub all the oil leak/dirt off the block before its ready.

Well the rebuild has gone well except a couple things... I need to get a new exhaust manifold, the spring bolts broke off in it, and PB blaster, easy outs, and glowing orange has failed to break them loose... And I forgot the oil restrictor and had to pull the head back off. But its all back together now and ready to be reinstalled.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 4:54 pm 
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I also decided to install a real coolant temperature gauge while I had everything apart.
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I noticed that there was an extra blank sensor location on the thermostat housing while I was replacing the other 2 temp sensors there.
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So I drilled and tapped (1/8" NPT) the location.
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Added a bit of RTV to the threads of the new sensor and tightened it in.
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I'd also like to install a real oil pressure gauge in the place of the idiot light sender in the block as well. That project will probably be in the near future.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 4:56 pm 
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March 5th: I got the rebuilt engine in today, I had reversed the 2nd and 3rd spark plug wire, but after the swap she fired right up! 30 minute drive to break the new rings in, and new oil and filter. She's ready for the first 500 miles now :)

During my first run the valves ticked for maybe 10 seconds, then were quiet. I prefilled them with oil before install, with the inner part immersed in oil, use a paper clip to push in the little ball and squeeze the lifter down to get the air out, then let the spring push it back out. When it pushes back out it sucks in more oil. You need to leave a little bit of air in them, or you can't compress them to install in the outer part though.

I also ran the engine for about 5 seconds with the fuel injector fuse pulled to get the oil going before I started it.

I installed an alarm system to keep people from messing with the car, I'm also going to install some power locks, power remote trunk release(remote control only) and the power windows from my other 'vert. I'll post some pics later, I did get some nice white GTi power mirrors on it too along with an injector cut switch in the glove box to keep unauthorized people from starting the car. This particular 'vert came with a locking glove box which is nice.

Here's how she's looking now with the swift side mirrors:
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The PO broke both headlight assemblies off of the car, they're held in by some springs... and the front bumper is loose on both sides.
The swift front end swap will correct all of this at once :D

Here's my valet switch for the security and my injector cutoff, they're on the left inside of the glove box:
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 4:58 pm 
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Guess what I got :D
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I average 55-65mpg @60 MPH on the interstate, and in several short trips I've topped 50MPG(trip average) around town using my injector cutoff. :thumb I love the MPGuino

Its also a testament of the capabilities of a freshly rebuilt 1.0 :) plenty of power AND great mileage. This car has the 4.39 ratio 155/80R13 tires on the stock steel wheels with the relatively smooth metro 13" hubcaps. All the driving I do is with the top down B-) It was 90F today, really nice cause the engine doesn't cool down between trips in the same day.

I installed a more accessible button for my injector cutoff:
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ignore the writing on the boot... I have no idea why someone needed to know that... its not like 5 speed transmissions are drastically different from car to car.

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