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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 12:17 pm 
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Location: Trinidad, West Indies
Hi all,

...I'd like to know what is the best way to reduce the parasitic drag of the accessories (water pump/Alternator/AC). I have one of those SuzukiRD.com underdrive pullies, but I removed it after reading about the necessity of the 'damped' pulley, to cancel the harmonic vibrations which can cause crank failure. I regret the day that I removed the pulley as I felt the power loss, but I'd rather have an engine that lasts, lol.

What are all you out & out racers using?

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 1:08 pm 
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Location: In T-Dot-getting >35mpg in a non GTi
stock oem pully...only option.
I have heard of guys machining the ac ribs off, but that's up to you.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 1:55 pm 
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Swifted wrote:
Hi all,

...I'd like to know what is the best way to reduce the parasitic drag of the accessories (water pump/Alternator/AC). I have one of those SuzukiRD.com underdrive pullies, but I removed it after reading about the necessity of the 'damped' pulley, to cancel the harmonic vibrations which can cause crank failure. I regret the day that I removed the pulley as I felt the power loss, but I'd rather have an engine that lasts, lol.

What are all you out & out racers using?



I would say it would be best to install one when your rebuilding so the entire bottom end can be balanced....That's one way that may help save the crank

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 4:06 pm 
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Location: Roumania
My mk1 gti didn't have a harmonic balancer....just a plain pulley .
Are you positive that the pulley isn't there to smooth out the rpm's?
I really don't think they balance the crank with pulley flywheel and clutch asseembly when they assemble it in the factory...most likely the parts, namely the crank, flywheel , pulley, get balanced separately.
What would you do if your clutch disc is worn , or flywheel. Would that mean that your crank will break in half?
Just my opinion, based on facts , experience and very little on rumors.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 5:58 pm 
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I ran my old engine in my rally car with a lightweight alloy underdrive pulley for 5 years with no problems what so ever, in fact the same crank was x-rayed and crack tested before it was installed into my current engine (160ish bhp) and all that it needed was the journals polishing, and that was after 108,000 miles! so personally I wouldn't worry about the harmonic blah blah blah :!:

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 7:49 pm 
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i've run aluminum accessory pulleys on several suzuki engines for years without any problems.

they weren't from suzukird, though. those might be the ones that cause damage. :-P

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 1:18 am 
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I guess you don't really like Suzuki RD =))

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 1:56 pm 
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ROV wrote:
I guess you don't really like Suzuki RD =))



suzuki RD products sucks, seriously! i have never seen good stuff from them, its always cruddy products.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 5:25 pm 
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They have one good part that i know of. That is the flywheel. It is actually very well made and light. But the header is crap stainless so it all rusted and its a 4-1 and i think it hurt more then helped on the car. The only thing i want to try they have because i havent herd of anyways you guys have tried or made is solid lifters. I want to try them or find a set that will work in our cars to get rid of our hydro. Everyone at my house had the suzukird pulleys and all of us got rid of them already. So on 2 gt 5spd cars, a 3cyl 5spd, and a 4cyl auto car. We lost gas milage and power from it. Thanks Stephen


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 5:52 pm 
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i got mine from adam at occ racing and from suprf1y when he facilitated a group buy for teamswift.

i modified one of suprf1y's aluminum pulleys with a 36-1 crank trigger wheel for my current project and it's elegant.

the underdriven speed isn't low enough to cause charging or cooling issues. all the suzuki cranks are engineered well so they aren't prone to vibration nodes (crank whip) and the journals and bearings, especially at the nose, have never shown any increased problems.

what i notice most after hauling that big steel lump of a pulley off is snappier throttle response. i like to lighten the g13 flywheel to 9 1/2 pounds (even on the g10, i swap flywheels for the bigger clutch) and run the aluminum crank pulley. :D

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2010 11:25 pm 
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stephennmm wrote:
They have one good part that i know of. That is the flywheel. It is actually very well made and light.


The flywheel isn't really theirs, it's a rebadged Aasco. You can save some change and get the same one from a different supplier.

Every run in I have had with them has left me saying "I won't do that again". I think I'm finally to the point where I learned from my mistakes buying from them.......

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 10, 2010 11:11 pm 
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Hey ROV. NOT REALLY! :huh:


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 2:09 am 
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I dont know where my Ud pulley is from but it was very light ,around 300 g, compared to the single metal one from the mk1 gti who was aroung 600g or more . It's blue in color .

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 2:37 am 
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Don't know if they make them anymore but suzitech in Australia have a single and double belt underdrive pulley. I ran a double pulley on a turbo GTi for around 70,000 km's with no problems. Also have a single belt pulley from them. Weighed it at 155grams

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 5:54 am 
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Thanks for all the input guys! 8) ...I'm gonna be reinstalling my underdrive pulley this weekend!

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 3:40 pm 
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The difference i saw in a pic of the aasco flywheel and theyres was suzukird stamped theyre name in it and they machined about a pinky wide grove about a half inch or so deep groove around it to lighten it more. it weighed in in the 5lb range. Thanks Stephen


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:36 pm 
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I just installed one of the SRD flywheels today, I should know how it feels by tomorrow evening B-)

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 5:18 am 
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sub...
where can I find this lightened flywheel?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 5:51 am 
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If you want to eliminate more drag, get an electric motor for the water pump (some fabrication required). They are available from most performance shops (Mopac here in western Canada). They add to the load on the electrical but take away from the engine load. It also gives a constant RPM to the water pump so it cools well at an idle. Ran this on the drag car (Near stock 2.8 Ford V6 in a '56 Beetle, 12.3@110MPH - 1/4 mile) and it worked well. Drove like a 10 second car in first and second gear, then the lack of HP took over in third and fourth.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 1:59 pm 
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does anyone even make a electric water pump for the swift GT? that would be an intersting option for me. since Im putting the gt motor into a samurai and have to buy a new waterpump anyways. I already save some energy by not having to power an AC pully. So does the electric unit sit in place on the regular one or does it block those areas and remote mount it?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 9:20 pm 
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It's an electric motor that you mount to the engine to drive the water pump. It still requires a small belt that goes from the electric motor to the water pump pulley. As I said, it requires some slight fabrication for mounting.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 9:45 am 
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How about a lighter alternator pulley?

Thats what i did.

I also have a SRD lightened underdrive pulley fitted and have had no issues so far.

Good luck.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 8:59 am 
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I went to the SRD site yesterday to order the double underdrive pulley, but was appalled at their shipping....they wanted to charge me $50. to ship to Miami, FL. Thanks but at that price, I'll suffer the lack of additional performance! :roll:

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 10:03 am 
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^that's weird ...last time I checked, they wanted to charge me $35us to ship the CAI to NYC.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 1:38 pm 
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I called andy and he got it sorted out...little glitch with the address and billing info not being refreshed properly. It's costing me $17 to ship to Doral, FL.

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