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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 7:36 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2010 9:39 pm
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Well everyone...

After about a year of searching, financial hardships and school, I've found time and money to begin my ground-up restoration of a Suzuki Swift GT. I found this car a couple years ago before knowing anything about cars and decided against it due to the rust issues. Here it is, two or more years later and she turned up again, this time with a different owner. The price is right, the times are right and I need to start my first major car project.

Hopefully you all enjoy the project as much as I will (or wont). I know I'm in for a lot of work, but in the end it will all be worth it. :twisted:

Lots of carnage pics to come.

Kyle

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:25 pm 
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Good luck with the project.
We'll be looking forward for the pics. We love pics on teamswift.

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1991-GTi: JE 75mm 11:1 pistons,Ported head, Single UD pulley (OCC),Sandros chip,Aluminium flywheel,3tech 222/365 cams, Cultus headers,Cultus IM,50mm tb,Crane cams adjustable cam gears,Apex suspension, 4.39fd GB.
1989-GTi: 3Tech 210/340 Cams,Cultus IM, B&G springs, TD04L turbo, Apexi SAFC, Suzukird UD pulley, Circuitse7en dual boost controller, AEM wideband, AEM water / meth injection kit, HKS bov.
2001-Altezza AS200: Stock.-sold
2003-EVO7 GT-A
Aruba "one happy island".


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 10:14 pm 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Well, finally in my custody...though the title issue date was back in '98. Something seems a little sketchy. Hopefully I didn't get screwed on this deal.

Pics as promised.

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Supposedly all she needs in a fuel pump to run...we'll see. The engine turns over by hand, but the battery is too dead for the starter. It feels like there's compression. Will do any tests requested, tips are always welcome.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 9:23 pm 
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Well double checked everything closely and found a lot of rubbed through or wires with vampire clips everywhere. The dash is coming out so I can repair the wires without too much headache.

Goal for now is to get the car running so It's at least mobile. Getting a fuel pump and some hose on Friday, I'll try to post a video of it running (thinking positive here) :lol:

Wish me luck!

Kyle

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2012 10:25 pm 
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Did some testing and found the fuel pump was fine. Turns out the fuel pump relay was bunked. I was getting power at the pump, but for some reason it wasn't working. I put power directly to the pump and BAM it started up. I then swapped a known good relay for the one in the car, and then the pump ran flawlessly.

Woot! Took her for a test drive, however the alternator took a dump. I managed a great first gear pull, but ended up getting a tow back to the 'garage'

I'm glad the car is running, and glad i didn't have to buy a fuel pump. Can't wait to get her on the road!


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Last edited by pvt_pwn on Sun Nov 25, 2012 9:15 am, edited 5 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 1:39 pm 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
So boys and girls, I have an all-important question for you. When starting the car, with a fully charged battery, the fuel pump relay clicks on and off when cranking. With jumper cables hooked up, the car has no trouble starting. Also on a hard pull, the car seems to sputter after a gear change (almost dying) and then picks up after a second or two. I'm guessing it's related to the relay clicking problem. It is a new relay.

Any ideas?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 7:13 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Check the vapor recovery system.
Maybe a check valve is hanging up???

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 7:56 pm 
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Hmmm...I will definitely check this. On another note, the car seems to start cold, but when its warmed up has difficulty starting. So far I haven't had any trouble with the hesitation after shifting.

One step closer...

Kyle

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 8:32 am 
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Went to the junkyard and picked up a few things. I'm always in there getting parts for the Metro and the guys at the counter are constantly poking fun at me. "Does that thing even go 55?" :lol: All in good fun I suppose.

Fixed the speedo, no more check engine light. For some reason the cable wasn't pushed into the transmission. Strange. Put a new clip to hold it in and the speedometer works perfectly. +1

The car WILL NOT start when warmed up. I haven't done any testing, but it was pretty embarrassing stopping at a gas station and then having to push the car away from the pump. After about half an hour the car fired right up. :oops: I will check to see if it's the fuel or spark cutting out.

Some coolant hoses are starting to leak. Most of them are dry-rotted and saturated with coolant. Is strider selling the silicone hoses outright, or getting deposits for a mass order?

On the plus-side, the heat works! Ordered regular tune-up stuff, plugs, wires, dizzy cap & rotor etc. Still working on repairing wires and getting those pesky vampire clips out of the way.

The aftermarket cruise doesn't work and looks terrible in the engine bay. Haven't decided if I'm going to remove or relocate it yet.

I still can't believe how much of a difference ~50hp makes. This Swift is a blast to drive.

Can't wait to see her with a turbo. :twisted:


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 9:39 pm 
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Just got the last of my packages today! NGK plugs, NGK wires, distributor cap and rotor, radiator cap and an air filter.

We'll see how she runs with some fresh parts. :D

Also, I confirmed a no-spark condition at the plugs when the car is hot and cranking. Any ideas?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 10:33 pm 
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With that much rust I wouldn't concern myself with whether she ran or not. My money would be spent on replacing sheet metal and welding new panels in. IDK it just seems to me that your going to have to tackle the problem later down the road anyways as you're calling this a restoration. My 2 cents!

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clinty wrote:
Us swift people are a rare breed.

pacapo wrote:
You get an old one, clean it up, put it back to specs and take care of it, and she'll last for years.

JVS wrote:
We (the Suzuki enthusiast) are Dinosaurs.

An eye for an eye will leave the whole world blind.

1989 Suzuki Swift GTi: Red "My PocketRocket"
1989 Suzuki Swift GTi: White (Being resurrected)
1996 Geo Metro (Stocker)
1999 Suzuki 1.6 Esteem (Baleno) Wagon (Sleeper creeper)


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 4:50 pm 
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Thats the plan. ;) The car will be completely stripped and sandblasted, followed by rust repair, rust prevention and finally paint.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 2:50 am 
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Although my GTi has zero rust, that is my plan as well to strip and paint to original factory color. I went and sourced every bit of rubber and all the trim pieces to include the hood felt new from Suzuki. It has cost a marriage and over $3000 to source all this.

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clinty wrote:
Us swift people are a rare breed.

pacapo wrote:
You get an old one, clean it up, put it back to specs and take care of it, and she'll last for years.

JVS wrote:
We (the Suzuki enthusiast) are Dinosaurs.

An eye for an eye will leave the whole world blind.

1989 Suzuki Swift GTi: Red "My PocketRocket"
1989 Suzuki Swift GTi: White (Being resurrected)
1996 Geo Metro (Stocker)
1999 Suzuki 1.6 Esteem (Baleno) Wagon (Sleeper creeper)


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 5:10 pm 
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Sheesh. Sorry about your marriage.

Did the dealer end up having most of what you needed?

Which parts were/are hard to find?

I'm starting to think a rust-free shell would be a better alternative, though a complete restoration would give me something to do.

Lately I've been bored out of my effin mind.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2012 7:50 pm 
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Through the dealership, Teamswift, RedlineGTi, Suzuki of Japan, Suzuki of Europe and various OEM manufacturers I was able to source parts. I found a front Bumper sitting in a warehouse in Nagoya, Japan (last inventoried in 1998!). I also found an OEM dash pad and hood felt in Budapest, Hungary! The hardest part so far has been the Passenger door rubber trim. I'm missing one piece and that is the top channel. I sent a translated letter to Suzuki Corporate seeking the original OEM manufacturer info for this piece, as it is still made! No luck!

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clinty wrote:
Us swift people are a rare breed.

pacapo wrote:
You get an old one, clean it up, put it back to specs and take care of it, and she'll last for years.

JVS wrote:
We (the Suzuki enthusiast) are Dinosaurs.

An eye for an eye will leave the whole world blind.

1989 Suzuki Swift GTi: Red "My PocketRocket"
1989 Suzuki Swift GTi: White (Being resurrected)
1996 Geo Metro (Stocker)
1999 Suzuki 1.6 Esteem (Baleno) Wagon (Sleeper creeper)


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 4:56 pm 
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Went to replace plugs and wires and ended up snapping one of the distributor screws off. No more joy riding. The distributor is coming off for repairs.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 6:05 pm 
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The car runs again, thanks to a couple zip-ties. It's a temporary fix, I promise.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 6:10 pm 
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 8:08 am 
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mate of mine did simillar, but we ended up breaking the new ones too. ended up using some M4x32mm bolts from my computer as a temp fix. but they are ALOT stronger then the oem ones.

bit longer then whats needed, but much more effective. we've now done quite a few of our other friend's car as a result.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 10:28 pm 
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No problems with the registration or title. The car still doesnt want to start when its hot. I've also noticed that the tps is set wrong. The car goes into DFCO before the pedal is fully released...which makes driving a bit of a challenge.

More updates to come.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 6:26 pm 
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So it's been a while since I've posted an update, but then again, there hasnt been much done to the swift. she's running strong, but I still have a couple issues.

1. Both of my tires spin when I burn them
I jacked up the car, put it in gear and the tires spin opposite. It looks like the trans was cracked open once upon a time (lots of silicone on mating points) Could this indicate a problem or did I score myself an LSD?

2. The hot start problem is still present
The coil isn't hot. When I turn the car off, it will restart fresh off the interstate. After idling for a good few minutes, if I shut the car off, upon cranking I will get one or two cranks, a sputter, and then continuous cranking. After about 10-15 minutes in 32 degree weather, she will fire right up. I pulled a plug wire after it was acting up and there is no spark. I have not checked for fuel.

3. Darting on a hard pull
The car jerks both ways when on a hard pull. Just cruising, when I hit the gas the car pulls right. Upon decel, the car will ease left. I checked the ball joints, tie rod ends, strut mounts and control arm bushings. All is well, both A-arms are solid. I found the right inner tie-rod end to have some play, but would like second opinions.

On the bright side, I was correct with my diagnosis on the TPS adjustment. I went ahead and tweaked it according to the factory service manual and I can finally cruise without any jerking. I wonder how long the previous owner dealt with that. :P

Thanks in advance!

Kyle

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 10:47 pm 
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thanks for the update ...
I'm all ears......jv&s

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t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 1:14 pm 
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Just a thought. Maybe find a donor car (Metro,Suzuki) strip it then strip your car (as planed) then transfer all of you parts over to your clean shell. This may save you time and money in the long run and lots of headaches.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 1:45 pm 
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pvt_pwn wrote:
So it's been a while since I've posted an update, but then again, there hasnt been much done to the swift. she's running strong, but I still have a couple issues.

1. Both of my tires spin when I burn them
I jacked up the car, put it in gear and the tires spin opposite. It looks like the trans was cracked open once upon a time (lots of silicone on mating points) Could this indicate a problem or did I score myself an LSD?

Spins opposite means no limited slip. You have just been getting lucky that both have been spinning.... though I wouldn't do that a whole lot as these trannies do not like wheel spin.

3. Darting on a hard pull
The car jerks both ways when on a hard pull. Just cruising, when I hit the gas the car pulls right. Upon decel, the car will ease left. I checked the ball joints, tie rod ends, strut mounts and control arm bushings. All is well, both A-arms are solid. I found the right inner tie-rod end to have some play, but would like second opinions.

Sounds like motor mounts to me.


Kyle

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 10:19 am 
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yummybacon wrote:
Just a thought. Maybe find a donor car (Metro,Suzuki) strip it then strip your car (as planed) then transfer all of you parts over to your clean shell. This may save you time and money in the long run and lots of headaches.


I have seriously considered this and I've been keeping my eye out for shells. I wish I could find one here in Michigan.

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