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PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 9:57 pm 
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Hi, guys. I'm about to start working on a twin-cam head I got recently and wanted to know about your experiences with the cleaning and assembly of the lifters. I've been reading a bit here and at other forums, but there seem to be different opinions about the adequate procedures. So should we soak the lifters over-night before installation or not?
Also, I'm thinking about using lacquer thinner and than regular gasoline for the cleaning process, but if you guys know of a better alternative, feel free to leave a reply on your way out :wink: .
I'm pretty sure time will pass before I install this head in the car, so I'll probably have to store the lifters until the assembly. That being said, do you guys think it will be a good idea to get them cleaned and stored DRY until assembly-day or should I just leave them soaked in oil all the time?

Thanks in advance for the help provided.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 10:39 pm 
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they are soooo cheep why not buy new..??
and they are the same size as the 1.0ltr
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ok I see....
go with krosene
There a little tricky they have two springs and a ball for a check valve
when you do get them back together squeeze them while submerged in 30wt oil (pump all the air out)
before you reinstall let them soak the lifter bottom side up in a dish of 30 wt
you be good to go
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Image
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Image

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t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
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I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 8:13 am 
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Cheap? A set costs no less than $100, than I have to pay international shipping and customs taxes. I have 3 heads in total now, so I don't see why not just cleaning the lifters.
I'll go with kerosene than, thanks :wink: .

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 12:37 pm 
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I remember this thread: viewtopic.php?t=34314

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1989-GTi: 3Tech 210/340 Cams,Cultus IM, B&G springs, TD04L turbo, Apexi SAFC, Suzukird UD pulley, Circuitse7en dual boost controller, AEM wideband, AEM water / meth injection kit, HKS bov.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 9:16 pm 
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instant_shine wrote:
I remember this thread: viewtopic.php?t=34314

Yes I read that thread, as many others on the web. Just wanted to know what method people are using currently. I'll start cleaning the head next week and store the parts after they are properly cleaned.
I'm thinking about cleaning the lifters that are being used now, as I need to change the valve cover gasket anyways. The plan was to swap heads but with the extra expense of a proper head-gasket, bolts and the machine-shop costs for getting the head shaved ($100 at least), I'm not so sure anymore. Almost everything needs to be imported so that's always an issue.
The thing is that I had so switch to a thicker oil (20w-50) because of smoking problems and than the lifters got a little noisy. I have good compression so I'm assuming it's the valve-seals, but what if I swap heads only to find out it was the oil rings? There goes a good gasket and set of head-bolts wasted :x. I know I know.... why not getting re-usable ARP head-studs? At $110 a set, is not an option; well at least not for a stock motor.
I want to do this right and I want to do it once. So does anyone know how to work some magic and find out if it's the oil-rings or the valve-seals? hahaha that was a rhetorical question, but if you do, feel free to get all the glory for your self and leave the "post of the day" :) .
A friend and GTi-owner told me the stem-seals can be replaced while the head is still attached to the block... can anyone confirm?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 1:02 am 
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instant_shine wrote:
I remember this thread: viewtopic.php?t=34314

.
I too remember this thread
but picture links broken (go figure) without pictures it pretty vage......!
remove ,clean, reassemble,

thought a would show you what the inside looks like
and for $100 that is less then $10 a lifter still think that good money spent
and can understand if you want to clean them your self
You Can Do It.!
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one question.?
do you have any spare lifters around
you know just in case worst scenario god forbid you loose a tiny spring or misplace a ball retainer
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I used an eeg holder to keep them mark to go back in the same whole I remved them from
1E,1I, 2E,2I Ect,ect,ect

To take them out turn them over in your hand slam the whole valve cup assemble
down on a piece of wood to get the valve out of lifter body
some say you can grab the valve with Vice grip or plyer ...That method did work for me.
When the valve & valve spring is out you can use an ice pick or tiny screwdriver to pop the ball retainer off
be careful that little spring will turn into a " jesus spring" (hence the need for spares)
clean re assemble
.......................................jv&s

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t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 2:00 am 
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Your smoking is almost certainly oil rings. There is no specific way to test them, compression test won't give any indicator of oil ring condition. Valve seals will give a puff of smoke at startup, but won't cause any amount of smoking while driving, nor will they cause excessive oil consumption. Ring replacement sounds daunting but really isn't that bad. Doing headwork will be a waste of time and money given your symptom

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 8:07 am 
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Thank you all for your helpful replies, I'll follow your instructions and post pictures of the progress.


jaguar,vettes&sprints: I have 2 spare heads (1 of them apparently in great condition) so I have more than enough parts in case I loose anything. You wouldn't believe me how much I paid for them... CHEAP!

codyb76: If you are right than indeed there's no need to swap heads, so i'll leave that alone. I've good compression, no mixed oil/coolant and no significant water or oil consumption, so I guess the head-gasket is still Ok. So if the plan is to stay on 20w-50 oil, I'll monitor oil-pressure and check the crank and rod-bearings for any scoring present (there's an oil-leak there, so I need to take out the pan anyway).


If the pressure is good and the oil isn't too thick to properly lubricate the bearings, I'll just clean the lifters to clear the knocking sound coming from them (some times) and call it a day. Maybe even replace the valve-seals while the head is in the car if it isn't too much work...

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 10:53 am 
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Bad seals will cause oil burning on startup, decel and idle. The seals used on these motors are very good, and hardly ever go bad. Same as the guides.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:41 am 
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suprf1y wrote:
Bad seals will cause oil burning on startup, decel and idle. The seals used on these motors are very good, and hardly ever go bad. Same as the guides.

"Decel" as in deceleration? I had somebody follow me in another car and watch the smoke coming out of the exhaust on different circumstances... the smoking was the same at WOT and on deceleration. I also remember that the car didn't smoke at start-up, cold oil= higher viscosity. So I guess we can conclude it's the oil-rings, since the problem went away when I switched to a higher viscosity oil.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 2:58 pm 
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i've had bad experience with cleaning/rebuilding the lifters. noise before the cleaning, and noise after. i believe that the lifters have a lifetime and no cleaning will properly restore them to 'as new' condition. you cannot repair wear and tear. on eBay they can be had for around $120~$130USD, so why bother stripping down the engine to clean these pesky parts? just replace them with new and you will never look back. :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 3:55 pm 
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Swifted wrote:
i've had bad experience with cleaning/rebuilding the lifters. noise before the cleaning, and noise after. i believe that the lifters have a lifetime and no cleaning will properly restore them to 'as new' condition. you cannot repair wear and tear. on eBay they can be had for around $120~$130USD, so why bother stripping down the engine to clean these pesky parts? just replace them with new and you will never look back. :wink:

You don't have to strip the whole engine to get to the lifters, valve cover and cams are easy to remove. I think you should read this thread before making any comments... you'll realize I'll be working on my SPARE head.
About costs, scroll up a bit and you'll understand why it's more expensive for me to get the lifters at my door. I'm not spending close to $200 on new lifters while I've 3 working heads with 48 lifters that only need a good clean.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 16, 2013 5:59 pm 
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janko, if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner those work great on our hydraulic lifters.

i use a petroleum based brush cleaner for enamel paint and let the ultrasonic buzz for a couple of hours in a well ventilated space and i can watch the wispy clouds of black crap rolling out of the little oil hole. when the black clouds disappear, the lifters are as clean as a whistle. :wink:

after i give them another turn in a detergent for lab glassware called alconox i run them on a cotton polishing wheel until the tops are smooth. compress them and make sure that they don't have any juice in them. then submerge them in a tray of oil until you are ready to install them. right before you drop them into the lifter wells, compress them again to get all the oil out of them. they will pump up to the proper extension as soon as the engine builds oil pressure.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2013 12:26 am 
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Unfortunately I don't have access to an ultrasonic cleaner, so I'll have to go with the cheaper methods. Your description about pre-loading the lifters, or not, is the best description I've read so far :) . I guess we should call it pre-lubing instead...

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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2015 8:49 am 
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Did you find out what method worked?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 9:05 pm 
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donstule wrote:
Did you find out what method worked?

No, man. I never got around to work on that head. I gave it to a friend and I think he bought new lifters.

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