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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 11:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:11 pm
Posts: 5
Location: stephenville texas
Hey forum! New guy here. I'll intro myself real quick: my name's Shane, I live in Texas and I'm a diesel tech/bmw mechanic and a musician. Don't know how those go together but yea. I have some experience rebuilding a Honda 3rd gen prelude due to headgasket/timing belt failure. And some civic basics...
But no Suzuki experience. And despite it looking like a somewhat upside down civic/prelude Dohc I would appreciate your time/expertise in helping me solve an issue.

Here's the problem: I am looking into buying a geo metro lsi with an 89 swift g13b dohc swap in it. He's had the car for a while, and rebuilt the engine not too long ago. According to him it's been reliable, but he took it out the other day and was hitting the rev limiter like crazy in 1st and second and randomly the car just died and wouldn't start.
The timing belt isn't broken, but I've taken the valve cover off and I know there's holes on top of the cams for timing I assume like my Honda si has. But the cams look a couple teeth off. The belt isn't broken but does look like it scraped on something. Maybe jumped some teeth? Idk what all he did to it, I know he raised the rev limiter and bored out the intake and exhaust...may have cams. But either way I just looked through Google on my phone which sucks lol and a Hilton's and Haynes manual neither of which tells proper timing procedure for the dohc.
I really like this car and want to buy it, but I would like to get the timing right so I can look at it better and see what needs to be done. And if anyone has a suggestion about the belt or the tensioner reliability wise that would also be great. But right now I NEED to figure out the engine rotation direction and timing marks etc. Thanks lots


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 7:41 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 12:27 am
Posts: 3051
Location: Aruba
Welcome to the forum. 8)

By your description i'd take the distributer cap off and see if the rotor is securely attached (that it doesn't spin freely).

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1991-GTi: JE 75mm 11:1 pistons,Ported head, Single UD pulley (OCC),Sandros chip,Aluminium flywheel,3tech 222/365 cams, Cultus headers,Cultus IM,50mm tb,Crane cams adjustable cam gears,Apex suspension, 4.39fd GB.
1989-GTi: 3Tech 210/340 Cams,Cultus IM, B&G springs, TD04L turbo, Apexi SAFC, Suzukird UD pulley, Circuitse7en dual boost controller, AEM wideband, AEM water / meth injection kit, HKS bov.
2001-Altezza AS200: Stock.-sold
2003-EVO7 GT-A
Aruba "one happy island".


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2002 5:26 pm
Posts: 1930
Location: Etobicoke, Ontario
instant_shine wrote:

By your description i'd take the distributer cap off and see if the rotor is securely attached (that it doesn't spin freely).
:goodpost:

Agreed... That damn little screw that holds the rotor on is notorious for coming out.

The holes in the cams are there for holding the cam in place while you torque the pulley bolt.

Here is the timing stuff:


Attachments:
photo.JPG [318.29 KIB]
Not downloaded yet

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 11:45 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 6:56 pm
Posts: 6347
Location: Emerald city Washington
I'm going the other way....
I once had a car that ran the same way
"As described"
Turned out it was not the distributor
.

.
Image
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Image
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t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
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jrjd wrote:
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 2:34 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 27, 2004 4:15 pm
Posts: 3130
Location: Brantford, Ontario, Canada
I've never had a gt strip the keyway, I had a couple 1.6 16v in the x90

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93 Swift GT White 3Tech cams, Sandro's chip, Lightned flywheel, Genie exhaust, Cultus header, Intrax springs.
08 Civic Wife's car


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 7:25 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2002 5:26 pm
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Location: Etobicoke, Ontario
crnolic wrote:
I've never had a gt strip the keyway, I had a couple 1.6 16v in the x90


i've seen a few.. it's not unheard of..

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 6:19 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2014 10:11 pm
Posts: 5
Location: stephenville texas
ah been busy working for a couple weeks...thanks for the help forum! I was finally able to get the cam and crank timing marks right, Inspected everything, Turned it over and kinda got it to start, except it sounded like it was running on 3 cylinders and when I removed the radiator cap earlier in the day it sprayed coolant out so hard it was ridiculous. So I decided to remove the head, and inspect the gasket, block and head. Upon removal this is what i found: the interior of the cylinders and head were covered in light black carbon,
BUT the exhaust valves were a light brown with small pockmarks/slightly burned or melted looking bumps on them. Theyre not terrible, but bad enough and different enough from the intake valves to arouse suspicion.
I have been told by my friend that he added 3tech cams, and that the head was shaved, so im thinking this may be a sign that the timing wasnt right. I know when you add cams and shave the head you usually retard your timing in any number of ways at least a couple degrees so that you can prevent detonation. Im trying to upload pics but it wont let me:/ but anyways your thoughts appreciated guys. Im hoping to get this running, repaint, redo the interior, and add a good stainless header and bore out the throttle body and plenum if possible. but first things first...timing. So I was told, my car which is a metro lsi is lightened, weighs about 1100 pounds and will beat a new mustang coyote 5.0 to 60...but i want it done right
BTW i will be testing the valve bowls to see if they leak or not...hoping however to make this thing last like my civic did lol. sorry for the ramble


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