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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 1:05 pm 
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Location: hampshire
hi guys, im nearly ready to run in a g13b ive just finished building and wondered if there's anything I should know? things like how long before the first oil change? should I re-torque the head at any point? should I keep the revs low for long? ive bored it out a bit and it has high profile cams.
Thanks for the help
Joe


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 4:15 pm 
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I would drive it normally. Take it easy on the revs for the first 1000kms but after that, drive it like you stole it.

I would also check with the cam manufacturer to see if that require you to use any kind of break-in oil to harden the lobes of the cam, if not then just drive it and enjoy it.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 6:06 pm 
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I didn't wait to run in my build engine in the '91 GTi.

Went straight to the track after swapping it in a few years ago. It still goes hard. It's my daily driver.

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1991-GTi: JE 75mm 11:1 pistons,Ported head, Single UD pulley (OCC),Sandros chip,Aluminium flywheel,3tech 222/365 cams, Cultus headers,Cultus IM,50mm tb,Crane cams adjustable cam gears,Apex suspension, 4.39fd GB.
1989-GTi: 3Tech 210/340 Cams,Cultus IM, B&G springs, TD04L turbo, Apexi SAFC, Suzukird UD pulley, Circuitse7en dual boost controller, AEM wideband, AEM water / meth injection kit, HKS bov.
2001-Altezza AS200: Stock.-sold
2003-EVO7 GT-A
Aruba "one happy island".


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 9:54 pm 
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Location: Emerald city Washington
.
Using High Zinc oil for the cam break-in.?
revisit head bolt torq after first 1000 miles
.
Run them but not to hard at first (No Redline)
but no idling very long either.....
Your trying to season the cam, main and rod bearing and get the rings to seat
you notice your engine will be sightly under its full potential (power) intill you get a few (Heat cycles) and or miles on it
The more you drive it you'll notice it will get smother and have more power
When is it broke in..?
.
It's different with every build some take 500 some take 1500 miles
.
As a guild I will change out Lube oil and filter @ 500 miles .
Why 500 ....not 400 or 600 or a 1000 miles..?
Thats just what I do and works for me.....
.
Whom M I.? I'm not a Mechanic or machinist.. I do have a mechanical way.
I like to take thing apart and sometimes put em back together
....jv&s
.
.
.
Image

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 4:23 pm 
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Thanks for the help guys, I value all your advice. The cams have been run in an engine before, so they shouldn't need any special attention right?


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 10:44 am 
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Hi guys, ran my engine warm for the first time today, I had a mechanical oil guage on it all the time I was running it. When cold it started off around 60psi but by the time it got to around 85 degrees Celsius it droped down to around 15-10 psi. I heard it's ment to be around 20 psi hot idle. The cams where also quite tapy at all times, (could have been just one tappet, didn't sound too bad). I've been using 5w30 oil, could a thicker grade oil solve the issue?

On a different note, can anybody tell me what the plug looks like for the radiator fan? Color wires ect...
Thanks guys


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 11:20 am 
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a heavier grade of oil, higher viscosity, compounds problems.

oem spec is 10w30, 5w30 for sustained cold weather use.

the bleed holes in the lifters are tiny and higher viscosity oil causes more issues than it solves. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 1:03 pm 
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Ok, do you think using 10w30 would make much difference?


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 3:51 pm 
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no diffrents were did you tap you mechanical oil gage and what type of gage are you using.?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 1:05 am 
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I put the oil guage in the pressure switch hole, I'm not sure what type of guage it is, but it's quite an old one.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 5:08 am 
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10w30 is the factory spec oil grade. when the engine is cold, the viscosity will be 10 weight. when the engine is warm the viscosity will be at the higher viscosity of 30 weight.

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 9:04 pm 
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Location: Aruba
Always ran 40 for oil. Regular. Never had an issue oil related.

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1991-GTi: JE 75mm 11:1 pistons,Ported head, Single UD pulley (OCC),Sandros chip,Aluminium flywheel,3tech 222/365 cams, Cultus headers,Cultus IM,50mm tb,Crane cams adjustable cam gears,Apex suspension, 4.39fd GB.
1989-GTi: 3Tech 210/340 Cams,Cultus IM, B&G springs, TD04L turbo, Apexi SAFC, Suzukird UD pulley, Circuitse7en dual boost controller, AEM wideband, AEM water / meth injection kit, HKS bov.
2001-Altezza AS200: Stock.-sold
2003-EVO7 GT-A
Aruba "one happy island".


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 10:08 am 
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Location: columbus, ohio
sub-tropical temps probably have a lot to do with that. :wink:

10w40 in my mid-western usa climate makes the twincam's valves loud on hot days like the lifters aren't all the way up.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 3:32 pm 
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On a different topic can anyone tell me what the plug looks like for the radiator fan? Color plug? Color wires?
Cheers


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 4:37 pm 
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Radiator fan plug, is about 1/2" round black plastic.. I think it has a blue and black wire.. It's tucked in tightly close to the horn..

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 12:33 pm 
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Thank you very much kind sir!


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 2:52 pm 
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Had it running again today and the oil guage settled on 10 psi again on hot idle, but I noticed an oil leak from the guage so it could very well be faulty. But if it is idling at 10 psi, how much of a problem would it be?

Also what temperature should the fan kick in at? According to my temperature guage it got up to about 88*c and it hadn't kicked in so I put the fan on manual and it just hovered around 88 which I guess is ok.
Cheers for the help guys.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 1:17 pm 
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Location: Slovenia
i'm from EU (about -10°C to max 40°C) and using regular 10w40 oil was fine for about 5000km then lifters become noisy sometimes (minimal, no big deal) so i changed to 5w40 oil and no problems driving it for 10.000km between changes.. (using motul 8100 xcess 5w240)

as far as i know there are 2 different thermostates.. one open at 82°C and other one at 88°C (i think 88°C is stock but i got 82°C as stock replacement so best is to check on it)
for fan switch i saw few different ones.. (ON-OFF) 93-88°C, 95-85°C, 100-95°C but last one seems a little high.. i'm not sure but from my memory, stock one should be open at 93°C

about running-in.. i would turn it on, wait on idle until water is at working temperature (90°C) then drive it normal for first 2 tanks.. that mean everything except pushing it up to the limit too much.. after that i would change oil (filter too) and from there on all should be normal.. i would also check compression at the first engine start and after those 2 tanks (that should be something between 600 and 800km)

as much as i know with todays materials there is no need for special break-in.. some people says that best it to put it straight on dyno or track and push it to the limit.. but since it's more or less stock engine (stock bearings and piston rings clearances and so on) i would go for a "sunday drive" after first start before pushing it to limit..

about oil pressure, put stock light and sensor back in.. if light is not turning on then you're OK :D
there is pressure switch in oil pump to prevent going higher than around 5bar..
by factory manual when engine hot and @4000rpm there should be 54-68psi.. but dont know on what oil grade..
it is also possible that your oil pressure gauge is showing a little wrong numbers.. for accurate numbers those instruments need to be checked minimum every 2 years.. (and dont use cheap ones) so as i said, go back to stock sensor and light and if it's not on you're ok.. on some racing engines there is sometimes light blinking on idle and it's still ok..

ohh and sorry for "km","°C" and "bar" but i'm from EU and we're used to those..


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2016 3:23 pm 
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Location: hampshire
Hey lukak. That's some really useful information there! Pretty much everything I needed to know! Thanks for giving me all the facts and figures:)
I like what you said about using the stock oil light, that really makes sense. Unfortunately I don't have a stock light or switch to hand so can anyone tell me at what pressure the stock light turns off at?
Thsnks again for all the help guys, this Is a really great forum.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2016 3:34 pm 
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The stock light switches at 6psi if I recall correctly..

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 2:49 pm 
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ah, so even if it is idling at 10psi the light wouldn't have turned of. do you think it would do any damage to the engine if it where idling at 10?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 4:00 pm 
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My understanding, is that any PSI over 6, and the light is off.

These engines are amazingly tough.. I wouldn't worry too much about it. You also have to consider the accuracy of your gauge.. As long as you have pressure on the gauge and it is about 10, I'd say your good to go. Besides, thats at idle, when your on the gas, your pressure should go up, if I recall, I think mine ran around 20 - 25 PSI when my foot was in it, after it was warmed up, and I was measuring the pressure at the side of the head.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 4:26 pm 
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Location: hampshire
Thanks mate, your probably right, I expect I am being a bit too over cautious. I'll check it with my new guage anyway and probably leave it at that.
It's just that I've spent so much time and money doing this engine I really really don't want it to go wrong:)
Thsnks again


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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2016 2:37 pm 
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hey guys, hows it going.
just got my car back on the road and ive been driving it a little bit. seems very good for the most part but im still having a bit of trouble with the idle. when its hot the idle speed drops very low, as if its just about to die. so I raised the idle speed until I was happy with it but then on cold starts it idles far to high. so what is the correct hot and cold idle speed and what is the correct way / time to set it?

the oil pressure drops worryingly low when the idle is low, but ive bought an genuine pressure switch, so I will fit that and see how it goes.

Thanks again for the help


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PostPosted: Mon May 02, 2016 3:02 pm 
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Are you fiddling with the idle screw? Or the throttle cable

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89 Swift gti
Modified B16 P29 75mm pistons,13:1CR, cultus intake, genie header, genie exhaust, 3tech head, 3tech 222/365 cams, 3tech UD pulley, megasquirt 2.0, 60mm throttle body, Aluminum flywheel


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