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PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 8:40 pm 
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Location: Truckee, CA
It has 95,000 original miles on it, it's blue all the paint, except the roof, looks great. The paint on the roof is a bit faded from snow sitting on it in the winter.

I took out the back seat as it was pretty much too small for anyone to fit in there, and did extensive soundproofing and built a wooden platform for the back seat area, so there is a flat carpeted area behind the driver and passenger seat. I currently have the passenger seat out of it too, just to give me more room to carry stuff. It has air conditioning.

I have no idea what this thing is worth. Any ideas? It runs like a champ and I bought it maybe 8 years ago and just used it for running around locally in my town. I maybe put 5000 miles on it in 8 years. No issues with it to my knowledge. Can someone give me an idea of its value?


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:13 pm 
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Sinsky wrote:
It has 95,000 original miles on it, it's blue all the paint, except the roof, looks great. The paint on the roof is a bit faded from snow sitting on it in the winter.

I took out the back seat as it was pretty much too small for anyone to fit in there, and did extensive soundproofing and built a wooden platform for the back seat area, so there is a flat carpeted area behind the driver and passenger seat. I currently have the passenger seat out of it too, just to give me more room to carry stuff. It has air conditioning.

I have no idea what this thing is worth. Any ideas? It runs like a champ and I bought it maybe 8 years ago and just used it for running around locally in my town. I maybe put 5000 miles on it in 8 years. No issues with it to my knowledge. Can someone give me an idea of its value?


$xxx.xx

if you can get $x,xxx.xx... take it and run.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 1:00 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
TGstring wrote:
Sinsky wrote:
It has 95,000 original miles on it, it's blue all the paint, except the roof, looks great. The paint on the roof is a bit faded from snow sitting on it in the winter.

I took out the back seat as it was pretty much too small for anyone to fit in there, and did extensive soundproofing and built a wooden platform for the back seat area, so there is a flat carpeted area behind the driver and passenger seat. I currently have the passenger seat out of it too, just to give me more room to carry stuff. It has air conditioning.

I have no idea what this thing is worth. Any ideas? It runs like a champ and I bought it maybe 8 years ago and just used it for running around locally in my town. I maybe put 5000 miles on it in 8 years. No issues with it to my knowledge. Can someone give me an idea of its value?


$xxx.xx

if you can get $x,xxx.xx... take it and run.

:goodpost:
It's 2014.
Post some pictures of the car already.

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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 11:03 pm 
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Location: Truckee, CA
Http://s1031.photobucket.com/user/sinsk ... eo%20Metro

Enjoy


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 12:16 am 
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Location: Emerald city Washington
I like it .!
........... Because of your local (outside of Reno) your car is worth $1200-$1800.
If someone through 1200 cash at you don't hesitate take it.!
If you don't need the cash you could wait weeks even month for the right buyer to give you more that would be the way to go
.

I'm of the school take less now and make that money work more then waiting for the right buyer
and just incase you were interested theres a Geo vert for sale in reno for $900 with minimal investment you could make
good money on that ride a good clean vert goes for $2600-$3800... just saying
a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush....jv&s
.
http://reno.craigslist.org/cto/4316580738.html
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Image

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t3 ragtop wrote:
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jrjd wrote:
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 12:23 am 
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Location: Truckee, CA
Thanks for the tip. My wife wants me to get rid of the extra cars, not bring new ones in to clutter up the property. If I were younger and had a shop to work in, I think I would take your advice. Thanks for the price point, it is something to consider.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 11:55 am 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Did you buy the car or bring it in from out of State in December of 2009?
It appears to be a fairly healthy engine,
Image
which has all the factory designed controls. It may need a new battery,
and you are representing your car with honesty, showing the dings on the body:
Image
(minimal)
I like what you've done with the interior;
Image
This is a common conversion for people who work out of their cars.
Image
sound deadener is always a help in these sub compacts and I'll bet this is one of the quieter Metros on the road.
The carpeting is nice.
Image
Does your vehicle have an 'MS' or 'MR' in the VIN?

The A/C would make your car attractive to a larger audience.
Question #1 above would help a buyer determine rust - a major deal breaker.
Question #2 would help determine the trim and a ballpark value.

Without those two questions, I'd say it is a solid car for a young guy who wanted to take a chance on an economical daily driver.
It would help your cause to take a picture of the smog test results of last November and upload them to your photobucket account. (They're a matter of public record anyways.)
That might convince any naysayers regarding the condition of the powerplant.

An XFI is the 'holy grail' of Geo Metros for the GeoMetroForum 'hypermiler' crowd.
It would command a higher price, although buyers are not as plentiful or as wealthy as you might like. The wire going from the (+) across the radiator apparently leads to the A/C relays, right?
Not having cracks in the dash is an additional plus. From your pictures, it appears to be a very nice dash, so I'd not sell it at the bottom end of the spread.
Other considerations of buyers:
Oil leaks?
Windows roll up and down w ease?
One key fits all locks?
Vibrate at 65 mph?
Wind noise at 65 mph?
Windshield cracked? (looks good to me, but in a rustbucket would show advanced rust damage)
Door sag? (a common complaint, especially from a 92-94 w door mounted seat belts)
Axle boots ripped?

You either bought a decent unit or took great care of it, as far as Metro owners go.
Good luck with the sale and welcome to Teamswift, as briefly as it may be.

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DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 12:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2007 8:20 pm
Posts: 11
Location: Truckee, CA
A lot of questions to answer- I had to open another browser just to see and comment.

Here goes:

1. ZERO Rust

2. Battery isn't that old. I took it out of the car for the winter, and it has been sitting in the garage. Car starts right up without an issue.

3. I am a very honest guy, and am a huge believer in Karma.

4. It drives VERY Quiet, compared to what it used to sound like

5. The VIN has MS

6. Once again- ZERO RUST

7. Someone actually KEEPS the smog test results? Really? Nope don't have that in my paperwork. It's a really good running vehicle.

8. The wire going across the radiator goes to the stereo I think. Or maybe the guy who reinstalled the air conditioner added it.

9. Cracks on the dash. Just above the radio, there is a small 1/2" long crack starting from the radio cutout, and could probably be stopped if I knew how to do it.

10. No oil leaks underneath the car.

11. Windows roll up and down, kinda, with ease. As everyone knows the window regulators of these things are junk. So the windows roll up and down fine, but I wouldn't use the word, "ease".

12. One key does fit all locks- and it has auto door locks.

13. No vibration whatsoever

14. Wind Noise? This is a metro... It isn't as quiet as my wife's 2013 VW Toureag Diesel, but with the carpet and sound deadening I put in it, it runs VERY quiet, for a metro, that is.

15. New Windshield, no nicks, cracks, or scratches.

16. No door sag

17. Axle boots? Who can get their head under the car to see? To my knowledge, the axle boots are fine. My mechanic is very meticulous, and if there were an issue, he would have suggested I repair it. He tells me it is a very sound car.

Hope this helps.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 2:08 pm 
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Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Sinsky wrote:
A lot of questions to answer- I had to open another browser just to see and comment.

Here goes:

1. ZERO Rust

2. Battery isn't that old. I took it out of the car for the winter, and it has been sitting in the garage. Car starts right up without an issue.

3. I am a very honest guy, and am a huge believer in Karma.

4. It drives VERY Quiet, compared to what it used to sound like

5. The VIN has MS

6. Once again- ZERO RUST

7. Someone actually KEEPS the smog test results? Really? Nope don't have that in my paperwork. It's a really good running vehicle.

8. The wire going across the radiator goes to the stereo I think. Or maybe the guy who reinstalled the air conditioner added it.

9. Cracks on the dash. Just above the radio, there is a small 1/2" long crack starting from the radio cutout, and could probably be stopped if I knew how to do it.

10. No oil leaks underneath the car.

11. Windows roll up and down, kinda, with ease. As everyone knows the window regulators of these things are junk. So the windows roll up and down fine, but I wouldn't use the word, "ease".

12. One key does fit all locks- and it has auto door locks.

13. No vibration whatsoever

14. Wind Noise? This is a metro... It isn't as quiet as my wife's 2013 VW Toureag Diesel, but with the carpet and sound deadening I put in it, it runs VERY quiet, for a metro, that is.

15. New Windshield, no nicks, cracks, or scratches.

16. No door sag

17. Axle boots? Who can get their head under the car to see? To my knowledge, the axle boots are fine. My mechanic is very meticulous, and if there were an issue, he would have suggested I repair it. He tells me it is a very sound car.

Hope this helps.


People wanting to buy a car will naturally ask questions; posting the answers in this thread will save you a lot of answering. An informed buyer is a smart buyer. No one wants to buy a lemon! Besides, how can we give you a ballpark value unless we have those answers or do you think these auto forums are a joke? If you have a solid car, a member in the South may have a friend in California looking for exactly what you have for sale. Long time members know what to ask. I'm trying to help you out if you look at the bigger picture.

Zero Rust:
Image
On the East Coast, that may fly. I'm a Native Californian, and those wheels look rusty to me.

Battery:
"It has X/XX" date on the side sticker and should have XX months to go.
Remember, you're asking people to drop thousands of dollars.


My Wife and I are no strangers to these cars, and we actually OWN one that is on the road today and several similar cars which are in running condition
Image
as are the Metro 'gurus' who posted above.
One has given you a value according to his area of Washington State where these cars are more common.

As we age, looking under a vehicle becomes more difficult; I get it.
Still, you can get pictures like this:
Image
with the factory jack in the trunk next to the spare tire.
I'm older than you, and I was able to take that picture, so you can do better.

Having read your thread, I would put a reserve of $3200--$3800ish if the missing seats are in good condition and available to the buyer.
Someone in the USA will pay that or more, or at least they have in the past on Ebay, especially during a gas crunch.
If you are in a hurry, then by all means dump it more quickly for $2200 on Craigslist.
The State of California will buy it back for $1500 or $1000 if your wife drives a 2013 VW.

MS = XFI trim.
A/C - had to be added later, as an XFI did NOT come with A/C.
I don't see any logic in running a dedicated wire across the radiator for a stereo.

Another common problem people encounter with used Metros is a whine in 5th and sometimes 2nd gear. A sharp buyer will listen for that on a test drive.

Likewise, any buyer worth his salt will want to know the Smog Test Results as it shows the condition of the combustion chambers. You will need to have the car smogged prior to sale anyways. Had you intended to sell the car a few months ago, it would have been a no-brainer to keep the smog test paper you received from the test station, showing what great condition your engine is in and why a buyer should grab this smart sale. It is similar to the FSM under your back seat, which I assume is the one your 'mechanic' has been using - a good thing to have.
So far, I agree with him. It seems to be a solid car.

If you bought it in 2009, and it only failed smog once, that isn't bad.
You've kept it running pretty good and hopefully your mechanic used good oil and filters.
Canadian members on this site could explain how they have more detailed smog data available then even we in California.
Years ago, if it was a '59 Ford truck, we'd be talking compression test.
Good luck with the sale; keep a positive attitude.

Hope this helps

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 3:25 pm 
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Posts: 11
Location: Truckee, CA
Wow, this is the 2nd time I am writing this, the first one went but didn't apparently get to you.

I wasn't dissing your forum. I actually went to your forum many times when I first bought the car and was thinking about doing stuff to it, but I never got around to it.

I want you to be picky, and I want you to direct me to show you what you want to see. I want to sell the car, as I have another better suited to what I need right now, waiting in the wings. Tell me what to photograph and I will upload for all to see.

1. "Zero Rust" - I live in snow country and the car sits outside in the winter. The snow sits up against the wheels, so I am mistaken- yes there is a little bit of wheel rust, but not anything a little steel wool won't take care of. I thought when people talk about rust, they are talking about rusted panels. I have not seen a rusted panel on this vehicle. Better?

2. Battery was replaced last spring.

3. Tell me what to photo and I will

4. I have the passenger seat and last time I looked it was in great shape. The rear seat was trashed and I threw it away.

5. Wire across radiator went to some sort of relay- maybe the air conditioner. I had a guy install it for me. It came with the car, but was in a box, so I paid someone to install it.

6. No transmission whines.

7. It has passed every smog test effortlessly. I don't drive it enough for anything to change. I just don't seem to have the cert. I will look in the glove box to see if I put it there.

Go ahead keep asking me questions, as I have nothing to hide, and I want whomever to get a good, fair deal.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 9:59 am 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Here's a long time member's XFI
Image
which sold for $2750 a few years back on Craigslist.
No A/C:
Image
And otherwise unremarkable:
Image
He's old school - full size spare:
Image

He cleaned his up prior to the sale, like your interior.
A guy from San Diego flew up to Portland and drove it home, tickled pink he had found an XFI in such great shape.

I have no doubt yours is a solid ride, and this isn't rocket science.
Ask yourself if you'd rather buy this:
Image
or this:
Image

Likewise, take an hour or two, roll the car inside and clean her up.
You sound like a guy who doesn't want to pawn off your problems on somebody else and I'm sure your ad will reflect that.

1 - I knew that, but people outside California don't so post pictures of the 'rockers'. Better.
2 - Nice. Clean it up and take a better picture of what a great engine compartment you have.
4 - Since you have the passenger's seat, put it back in.
5 - Talk to your mechanic, give him a 6 pack and reroute that A/C wire around the back of the engine compartment. It looks tacky and although works fine might send the wrong signal to someone who pops the hood.
7 - No it hasn't. It failed once since you had it and it was an easy fix. You probably are like me and getting old. It passed the next day, so think back and figure out what went wrong and what you did to fix it. Someone may ask.

Rust free California (Calif) cars are highly touted by the East Coast crowds.
They'll torture you with questions to get a lower price, and once they get home, wow.
Everyone hears what a great deal they got.

So showcase your little prize and give the next guy a leg up.

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 10:12 am 
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Posts: 11
Location: Truckee, CA
Well, so far I have got a $2400 offer, but I will wait until Wed to sell.

7. Do you think the place where I had it smogged would have good enough records, to reference why it didn't smog? I honestly don't remember it not passing. The only thing I could possibly think was maybe some sort of sensor. For a while my mechanic advanced the timing a bit, to give it a little more pep, but after the last smog, I just left it alone. Whatever it was, the problem wasn't serious.

Are there any other photos I should take. If you look at the photobucket site, I cleaned up the engine compartment a bit. Part of the problem it was so dirty, is I live on a dirt/gravel road. So it is impossible to keep cars clean.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 11:02 am 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
I lived up at 2700' in the Angeles, so I completely understand about the dirt.

$2400 is probably a low price unless there is a problem with the title.

The XFI that sold for $2750 in Portland had a clear title with no accidents.
Unfortunately, a salvage title will drop the price considerably.
Since you aren't that familiar with mechanical things, let me explain.
When a car has a salvage title, it usually means it has been in a considerable crash and the insurance company felt it was safer to take it off the road.
It may LOOK like it didn't have any damage, but the alignment is now off and there may be some tearing of the spot welds in places you can't see, compromising the integrity of the unibody construction. They may apply a value of $1000 to the car, for example.
Hopefully this doesn't apply to you, but it is something I forgot to mention and is very important.
Karma being what it is, I'm sure you don't want to pawn off something which has been deemed unsafe in the past on an unsuspecting buyer at full price, eh?

Mechanically speaking -
You could go back to the smog station and ask why your car failed 11/17/11, but if you don't know off the top of your head, probably best not to worry yourself over it. Let your mechanic worry about those things.

I'm sure you can unload that little puppy by your target date of Wednesday.
If you do, try and stay away from the early 90s Hondas and Toyotas - unless you are prepared to send the car to your mechanic for a new head gasket soon. A car can look sweet but hide a multitude of problems. Ask your mechanic what he would charge to
-replace the head gasket
-replace the timing belt
-rebuild the engine
before buying your next car.
-and don't forget to check the next car's smog check history!
:idea:

OK
I'm outta this thread.

_________________
DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 11:20 am 
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Location: Truckee, CA
The honda I am purchasing as been completely gone through with a new engine, new suspension components and literally looks like a brand new station wagon- so new, that the friend who is selling it to me tells me people are stopping her in the street and asking where she got the new honda wagon. Check it out:
https://stockton.craigslist.org/cto/4312422264.html

I've ridden in it and it is a primo car and would be better suited for the driving I am now going to be doing.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 11:27 am 
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Location: Truckee, CA
I am a little reticent about your "pawned off on someone" statement. After all, I have enjoyed this car for as long as I have owned it and have had zero issues with it. Had I known what a salvage title actually was, I probably would have thought twice about buying it, but now after owning it and put the mileage on it, I can honestly say there is no noticeable issues with it- the car is tight and drives great. If you look at the photo of the bent metal on the front right side of the car (in the new photobucket photos I uploaded) you will see that the apparent accident was less than what would be expected in a fender bender. I have no idea why the car is a salvage, but it drives great. I will try to take more pics of the area of the accident on the fender so you too can see that it is a non-issue.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 4:35 pm 
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OK, back again. I pulled the metro into the garage and went over it with a fine tooth comb, and took a bunch more photos from all sorts of directions. I think I've taken pictures of everything now- the new photos will be uploaded to the photobucket website in another 20 or so minutes.

About the Salvage title- I have no idea why it was a salvage- I can find no evidence of anything more than a small fender bender. I jacked up and crawled under the car, and soon realized that there is no frame! At least the kind of frame I am used to seeing on my pickup trucks. This frame is integrated into the body. Never the less, I crawled all over the place and took a bunch of photos. THERE IS NO FRAME DAMAGE. From everything I can see, the car had a minor fender bender, and for whatever reason, the insurance company must have totalled it. I have no idea why. There is no evidence of any damage other than a small crinkle right by the light mounting. I took a bunch of photos of the site of impact so you can see for yourself there isn't any damage.

I dug out the passenger seat and put it in the car.

Digging around in the glove box I found the original booklets that came with the car, too.

About the "rust", ok, I concede that there is a little rust, but nothing that some steel wool can't take care of. There is no permanent rust damage to any panels at all. No bondo needed anywhere.

Check out the new photos on the photobucket page: http://s1031.photobucket.com/user/sinsk ... are&page=1


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 10:05 pm 
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The insurance companies go off the blue book value. If the cost to repair is greater than the blue book they will total it. It can then be retitled with a salvaged title. The blue book on my Sprint the last few years it was on the list was like $350. Any paint damage at all would put it over the blue book value. I imagine your Metro was in a small accident and the cost to fix and repaint the door was over the blue book value. In which case they would've totaled it, given the owner the blue book value, and given them the option to buy the car back from them for iirc 20% of the blue book value. It then would've been retitled as a salvaged vehicle. My Cadillac is a salvaged title. Someone junked it because the cost to do the head gaskets is so high. So when I bought it from the wrecker and got a new title is was a salvaged title. So sometimes it's not even accident damage that gives it a salvaged title.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 10:12 pm 
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Location: Truckee, CA
THAT explains it. Yeah the damage looks like he tapped a mail box or something, as it just looked like a low speed crinkle. I mean, the car is so lightweight, if you hit anything on any of those front corners at more than 10mph, it would most likely total the car and REALLY mess stuff up. And this obviously wasn't the case. Thanks for the comment.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 10:25 am 
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Location: Truckee, CA
With an hour and a half left, my highest offer is $2600


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