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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:30 pm 
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Location: pennsylvania
I bought a FAze tach not to long ago. Its big and that whole tuner look and whatever but its what i was looking for cause i wanted that huge bs tach cause i just wanted to, anyways it says it will work for 2 to 12 cyl engines and i had ti read to believe it and it has this switch sequence that you select for whatever cyl your going to hook up to it. I still have yet to hook it up cause im all but tearing the car apart for now.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 1:18 am 
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Here's Jared's tach I just recal'd. This tach didn't look the same as the one previously posted (different year? The cluster doesn't look like it would fit in my 1992). Equipment used was a pulse generator, oscilloscope (though a freq counter would have sufficed - in fact that's what I was using the scope for) and a 12V power supply.

This tach was for a 4 cyl metro.
Here's the rear of the tach. (I wrote the signal names on the rear)
http://www.dschmidt.com/geotach/rear.jpg

The PCB of the tach
http://www.dschmidt.com/geotach/PCB.jpg

and the two resistors I had to change.
http://www.dschmidt.com/geotach/resistors.jpg

Original values were a 22K and 39K in parallel (14.06K).
New values are a 22K and a 300K in parallel (20.5K). The new value was determined using a resistor substitution box and feeding in a 125hz signal which = 5000 RPM on a 3cyl motor.

Here's the last picture showing the tach reading while being fed the 125hz signal (you can read the freq. on the scope)
http://www.dschmidt.com/geotach/re-calibrated.jpg

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1992 Geo metro, 1.0L 5spd, 511,000miles on original engine & trans
- First time engine work at 456K miles, bad headgasket. Rebuilt head, Felpro gasket installed.
- knuckles/hubs/brakes/13" wheels from a 2000 Metro, running 175 70R13
- New bearings and 1st/2nd synchros at 440.5K miles.
- MPGuino
- Averaging ~ 51MPG these days


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 2:26 am 
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jellybean,

that's some awesome work, man. :D

karma button mashed for you! :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 6:34 am 
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t3 ragtop wrote:
jellybean,

that's some awesome work, man. :D

karma button mashed for you! :lol:

Took the words right out of my mouth. Stickied + Karma. :thumb2:

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 10:41 am 
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JellyBeanDriver wrote:
Here's Jared's tach I just recal'd. This tach didn't look the same as the one previously posted (different year? The cluster doesn't look like it would fit in my 1992).


No doubt the work of the lowest bidder for that instrument panel. :roll:

Excellent work for sure. I'll have to compare those values with the two pots that I have on mine, see if they're the same.

So you've re-cal'd a 4-cyl tach to read properly attached to a 3-cyl car, correct?

Karma also coming your way from me. Excellent job!


Chris

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 1:43 am 
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Location: So. Calif
Quote:
So you've re-cal'd a 4-cyl tach to read properly attached to a 3-cyl car, correct?


Yep. Glad to get my hands on one finally.

I think the clusters changed over the years, or they're different for a 4cyl vs 3 cyl metro.

Comparing the rear view of Jared's that he sent me with your picture, everything looks the same - same bulb locations, same locations for the temp and fuel guage, same locations for the wiring connectors - just the tach is different. Also I don't see speed output terminals on your speedo - but maybe I overlooked it. Oh yeah, yours has 3 bulbs in the front upper right (upper left in your rear view) but his only has 2 - the center bulb is missing and I don't see a window for it on the front.

edit: Nevermind. In Lihtan's photo it's the fog lamp indicator.

Dave

_________________
1992 Geo metro, 1.0L 5spd, 511,000miles on original engine & trans
- First time engine work at 456K miles, bad headgasket. Rebuilt head, Felpro gasket installed.
- knuckles/hubs/brakes/13" wheels from a 2000 Metro, running 175 70R13
- New bearings and 1st/2nd synchros at 440.5K miles.
- MPGuino
- Averaging ~ 51MPG these days


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 8:33 pm 
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Location: Colorado
i recalibrated a tach from a 95 4 cyl to work with my 93 3 cyl. you need to remove and replace the resistors at the locations shown below with a potentiometer set to 11.2k ohms. Or you can just use resistors that add up to 11.2k ohms, like i did. I used a 12v car battery charger to simulate the tach signal.

picture links:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/123/imag007825lz.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/5760 ... 7926ly.jpg

edit: i forgot to mention this was for a nippon denso cluster that looks like this one:
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/6527 ... edo9cu.jpg


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 4:25 pm 
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Location: Springville, UT
OK I'm sure this has been covered elsewhere, but I thought it would be relevant to make sure that the speedos are 100% compatible. Are they?

Not much else to say other than :goodpost: Jellybean, I appreciate it.

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Last edited by STuPiDiCuS on Mon Jan 30, 2006 3:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 8:13 pm 
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Location: Holden Alberta
I’m in the middle of converting a Wal-Mart auxiliary tach and boy, what a headache. :? It looks simple enough, its just that I don’t have all the equipment to carry out a proper test… plus its hard to find the appropriate resistors around hear… :(
this sucks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 10:06 pm 
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STuPiDiCuS wrote:
OK I'm sure this has been covered elsewhere, but I thought it would be relevant to make sure that the speedos are 100% compatible. Are they?

Yes the speedos are I checked when swapping mine. Both run at I think 1026 revolutions per mile

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 3:44 pm 
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Location: Springville, UT
Good to know, civichunter. Karma.

EDIT/UPDATE: This cluster from an 89 GTi i have here says 1026 revolutions per mile, looks good to me.


Now a n00b-tastic question: I call radio shack to find the proper resistor to swap in, and the guy asks me what wattage I need. apparently there are lots of different wattages. So, which one do I need?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 7:38 pm 
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Compare it to the size of the one you're replacing, 1/2 watt should be fine. The wattage won't affect how it works, just how much it can take and how big it will be. If there's enough room to mount it, you can put any big fellow in there, just don't get one smaller than the ones that are already there.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 2:58 am 
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1/2 watt? 1/4 watt is plenty. I am suprised Radio Shack still sells electronic components it's seems they're trying to become a consumer electronics retailer instead... :roll:

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maybe a picture Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 11:07 am 
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Lihtan wrote:
I am suprised Radio Shack still sells electronic components it's seems they're trying to become a consumer electronics retailer instead... :roll:


I noticed that, :roll: they didn't even have a 300k 1/2 watt resistor so I bought a pack of 5 100k's.
should I hook the 3 of them in series or parallel?
EDIT:
Nevermind, I found a multimeter. Linking em serially gave me 300.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 12:38 pm 
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and the reading I get when touching the contacts I just soldered is: 382K!?!

:headscratch:

any ideas? it's not 20.5K, buuuuut it's connected to everything on the PCB now, maybe that's got something to do with it. Any ideas?

Please tell me if it's right.

Image

-------------------------------------------------------

UPDATE: Because their places were the opposite of those in the picture I replaced the wrong resistor the first time, I should have checked their values first.
The two on my 89 GTi cluster were a 22k and a 43k, not 39k. Wierd.

For the record: replace the one that isn't red red orange gold. That's the 22k one. And yes, the 3 100k in series did work. It all adds up to 20.1k now. Close enough.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 8:12 pm 
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What size resistors will I need for a 92+ tach? DKG has accomplished the conversion on a newer tach and he said that they needed to add up to 11.2k...so what I'm wondering is what size needs to go in each location.


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 Post subject: just installed
PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 5:45 pm 
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Location: Beloit,WI
Just installed a gauge cluster with tach out of a 91 vert in my 92 XFI.It works great.Going back to the salvage yard to get the other cluster soon.


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 Post subject: 3 cyl Tach.
PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2006 10:16 pm 
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Location: Idaho
I read in these forums of the Glowshift Tach. Checked the site and purchased one. It now works but had problems with instructions that were not for this unit and numbers on tach back not matched with unit. After consulting with Glowshift Techs. it now works for the most part. The cost was low and possibly considered cheap by some standards.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 8:09 pm 
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Location: Mich
Im not gonna read the whole thing but im running a sunpro from meijers, it works like a charm and for 50 bucks with shift light and everything plus i just flip the switch to 3 cyl and go

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2006 11:00 pm 
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i have a small super tach in my car i just set it to 6cyl and seems to be fairly close anyone have an idea how far off it is?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2006 11:22 pm 
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2x?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2006 6:00 pm 
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Sigh

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 Post subject: Tachometer calibration.
PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 8:20 am 
I'm sure happy that I found all this write up!
I did get a tach gauge cluster from a reliable source in Ville Brossard. The vendor marks all his parts. Overdid it with this though as it was marked 3 cylinder on top and 4 cylinder on the bottom......
It's the round cluster. We looked here and found "The" method. But didn't notice that everything described was for the squarish model....fortunately I scanned down and found DKG's recipe. Quick hop to the local La Source (our Radio Shack now) and bought a mess of resistors for 5 dollars. You need to change only one, the outside one, with a 22K.
It comes out to exactly 11.21 !

While I was in the cluster I set the mileage on the odometer to the correct one on my car (lower, much lower). This takes patience as you have to melt two small contact regions on the number cylinder. Then a small "carriage" has to be undone because this prevents spinning. There are tiny gears between the numbers. By slightly spacing each number ring you can turn them individually. The small carriage or rack has to be put back very precisely and secure tiny plastic prongs between each ring.
When you are satisfied, dry fit everything back together to check if the display is ligned up with the window. If so, remove dial and melt back the plastic around the ends of the tiny shaft. Yes, it takes time, much less than spinning for days with a drill.
Have fun.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 12:25 am 
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dkg wrote:
i recalibrated a tach from a 95 4 cyl to work with my 93 3 cyl. you need to remove and replace the resistors at the locations shown below with a potentiometer set to 11.2k ohms. Or you can just use resistors that add up to 11.2k ohms, like i did. I used a 12v car battery charger to simulate the tach signal.

picture links:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/123/imag007825lz.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/5760 ... 7926ly.jpg

edit: i forgot to mention this was for a nippon denso cluster that looks like this one:
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/6527 ... edo9cu.jpg




for anyone thats interested in this... let me know... ive just completed this and it works perfectly....

that is: using a 4 cylinder mk3 tach work on a 3 cylinder mk3.

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Mk1 3cyl - 185whp/150ftlbs - 1/4mile 13.97@103mph


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 12:26 pm 
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Location: Texas 75150
I Have a 3 cylinder tach I want to convert to a 4 cylinder tach. My tach is the later Nippon Denso cluster. Can you give me the value of the old resister you pulled out and replaced with the 22K one please?
FYI the factory one I pulled out was a 24K resistor.

Fainya

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