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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2007 11:18 pm 
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Location: Millbrook, Alabama
Hi everyone. My 92 Metro G10 burns a rediculous amount of oil so i am planning on getting it rebuilt here locally. How much should a respectable shop charge me to rebuild the motor? Thanks a bunch guys.

Kyle

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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2007 11:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 03, 2006 4:24 pm
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Location: Minnesota
It all depends.

Are you bringing the whole car, or just the long block?

Depends on what they find once they gey inside it. What may need to be machined. What hard parts are worn/dammaged.

Valve job runs about $200 or so.
Complete rebuild I'd guess about $800 or better (that's all new)


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2007 7:51 am 
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Location: Daytona Beach, FL
If you aren't planning on doing the rebuild yourself you'd probably be better off going with a JDM engine... Last time I checked you could pick up a low mile JDM engine for $3-400 plus shipping (and I think one of the JDM suppliers is located in NC, so should be cheap(ish) shipping).

Many people recommend going with a JDM over a rebuild.

If you don't mind my making a suggestion, I would recommend picking up/borrowing a compression tester and running dry and wet compression tests. This should help narrow down where the problem is. If it is just a valve (common on the 3cyl) you only need to rebuild the head --save you lots of bucks--; if you post your compression results here someone will be able to let you know where the problem is. At worst you just cost yourself a few bucks (picked up my tester at Advanced Auto for ~$40, but they have some much cheaper) and some time, at best you just saved yourself a lot of bucks.

I haven't purchased a JDM motor myself, but I did look for one for my 4cyl and there is a number of posts regarding this.

Hope it helps,
Bob

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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2007 9:04 am 
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Location: Millbrook, Alabama
I will be borrowing my friends compression tester here this week. I would probably give them the entire car. The reason i would want to rebuild it is because it would be nice to know that your motor is basically new, plus the place i would take it to offers a warrenty. Thanks for the help.

Kyle

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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2007 12:23 pm 
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Location: near Burbank, Calif
z34-5speed wrote:
I will be borrowing my friends compression tester here this week. I would probably give them the entire car. The reason i would want to rebuild it is because it would be nice to know that your motor is basically new, plus the place i would take it to offers a warrenty. Thanks for the help. Kyle

Yep, that is certainly the best (but not the cheapest) way.
If it is a quality rebuild shop then you can have a better than new engine (since the block/head is "seasoned"- meaning stress relieved).

Real quality rebuilds nowadays seems restricted to primarily just race engine shops.
Most people don't want to pay what it takes to do a rebuild as best as it can be.

Good luck,
Pres

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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2007 12:38 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
In Los Angeles, they want about $1200.
Last time I did one so that, like you said, you know all the parts are fresh, it was about $800 in parts.
The 'JDM' engines mentioned above, have had very good luck with, and about $300 (not installed).

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Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 10:19 pm 
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Location: Bella Vista, Arkansas USA
Heck, why take it to a shop???? Do it yourself... I bought some rings, head gasket, and head bolts from partsdinosaur.com for about $80.00 and did it myself. Dropped the oil pan, unscrewed the pistons from the crankshaft, pushed them up from the bottom, put on the new rings and installed the new ringed piston with the appropriate ring compresser I purchased from autozone for $15.00 and in about two hours I was driving my 92 again. If any one says I should use a finer technique, well I must admit that these engines are throwaway engines. Should I blow mine up,I can get another one from the west coast and shipped here for about $500.00. These engines are hardy, take a licking, and keep ticking. I believe in these engine and their durability and my shade tree abilities. Good luck.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 10:57 pm 
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Location: Millbrook, Alabama
I don't have a place to do the swap at my house, though i could do it at a buddies house. I am leaning towards having him rebuild the bottom end, rings, re-honing, etc... and me possibly getting the performance head and cam that 3tech offers, because we are planning on turbo'n the car sometime this summer and i will get this stuff done before then.

Kyle

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 Post subject: rebuild
PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 12:55 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 18, 2006 3:33 pm
Posts: 93
Location: Elkmont Alabama
It cost me @ 700 to do mine
$100 s/s exhaust valves, head bolts. mike's 10deg. cam gear
$360 rebuild kit with 20 over pistons w/ rings and berring's,gasket kit, new oil pump
$45 to clean block
$36 to bore block
$84 to do the head
$45 new water pump
$30 oil,filter, misc...

It cost me @ 370 to rebuild my 5sp
$ 160 for the kit
$200 for a 12 ton press and berring spliter

The grand total was $1070 and I get to keep the $200 worth of tool's

Now I know what I got, New motor and trans :D


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 1:46 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 22, 2004 10:41 pm
Posts: 178
Location: land of fieros, North Dakota
I have 2 metros. One I did a JDM and the other I did a ac/delco reman that I got on e-bay.

Total cost to do the JDM was about $700. I put in all new gaskets and water pump etc..

Total cost to do the reman long block was about $1000

For me it was alot less work to do the reman than the jdm, but both turned out really well.

Prior to this, i have never done an engine. It was rather easy, but time consuming the first time.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 4:54 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 18, 2005 3:35 pm
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Location: Southern Michigan
sounds like you are in the same boat. I am building a metro from scratch and my whole take on the engine rebuild was having Mike rebuild the head and then doing the bottom end myself. Seemed like the easiest way to do it while getting the most for the money. Let me know how things end up.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 6:34 pm 
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
There are no more "JDM" engines available.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 8:56 am 
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Location: Daytona Beach, FL
Phil N Ed wrote:
There are no more "JDM" engines available.



Not doubting ya or anything Phil, but where did you find this out at?

As little as 6 months ago when I was looking for a JDM 1.3l 8v everywhere I checked had the 3cyl engines available, but never the 4cyl.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 6:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
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Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
I think you are right. I was looking for a A20A1 4 cylinder engine, not a 3 cylinder. The A20A1's are no longer available JDM.
Sorry about that, think I mixed up my engines.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 8:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:27 am
Posts: 102
Location: San Antonio
I just tried to get a JDM engine, and no one I could find had any in stock _ call back in a couple of months is what I was told. I pulled the engine with my bare hands. Took off as much as I could while it was in the car and pulled block, crank and pistons as on unit.

A shop told me $1900 to replace the engine if they did it, you may want to rethink having a shop pull it, that would have been 9 times more than I paid for the car.

I took the block to a reputable local shop to have him work it. ~$520 for all the work he did plus a complete gasket set for me to take home with me. Mine needed pistons when a valve let go and bounced around inside before finally exiting into the block, now it's good as new. With the rebuilt head from a local source it was just under $750.

In the FWIW column - the metro block broke down isn't much bigger than 2 computer towers sitting next to each other.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 2:53 am 
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Location: Perth, West Oz
I kept photos of the rebuild I did a few months ago on my 1300 SOHC - http://au.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ausgix ... /my_photos
I put over A$2200 into it.
$500 - Fully reconditioned the head and milled 1mm off it.
$300 - new headers to replace the manifolds.
$437 - rings, bearings and gaskets.
$245 - new clutch kit.
$90 - new battery.
$110 - new water pump.
$304 - coolant, hoses, plugs, oil, filters, timing belt, thermostat, fan belt, rotor button, dizzy cap, degreaser, assembly lube, etc
$166 - new head and crank bolts and replaced every single bolt with SS socket heads.
$45 - carby rebuild kit.
I also put 50 hours into porting the head.
I didn't need to replace the cam or pistons at 250,000kms.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 3:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:27 am
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Location: San Antonio
wow - someday I'll have a real engine to put in my car too :lol:

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TTL in the po-dunk town I live in : $49
Average fill-up : $24

Watching the guy fill his gas-hog SUV : Priceless


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 1:25 am 
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revived!


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 11:38 pm 
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Location: concord nh
ive done it for 250 bucks and I'm in the middle of a of a 1200 dollar rebuild.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 11:54 pm 
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Location: vancouver island, canada
I have done a ring bearing gasket with a hone for less then $100 and 40,000 km latter still running strong with 195 comp in all 3 cylinders.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 4:04 am 
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95pontiacfirefly wrote:
revived!


WHY??

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 2:27 am 
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Location: pittsbrugh
A while ago my 95 started to stall out at red lights or when ever my rpms dropped .. So I threw on this extra head I had and still nothing better came of It .. Soooo I did a compression test my numbers were very low. I mean I still drive everywhere but it just sucks gas and stalls lol if I stop ...

I will be doing the basic rings and gasket deal and see what happens ...

I'll let yens know on my compression numbers as well

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