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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 4:46 am 
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well i received this poor little car after a nice hard life with my sister.
its rusty the dash is cracked all over it has no tacho and had no gear nob the car needs a wheel alignment and the speedo reads 10ks faster then its ment to and the paint is faded and it has lots of dints broken sidelights dodgy stereo install and i think that's it for now.

so as you can see i got my work ahead of me so i thought i would ask you kind fellows here some questions and document the rebulid of this poor little car.

First question is how do i set up a tacho in this car the coil does not have a tacho signal wire like most other cars ive owned.

second is how hard is it to set up air conditioning on it?

and do they always sound like a diesel?

here is the car in question.......

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so when it was down in NSW where i picked it up near the Victoria border it has had a carburetor rebuild, the secondary waste gate was seized. and a full service. then it was driven from there to Brisbane. because i just moved here. she never missed a beat except when we went up and down hills she would blow some smoke. thank god Ive got road side assistance...lol so anyway i think that will be a something to do with oil and pistons ill find out one day. anyway i was getting very good fuel consumption with 430k's to the tank and that was not empty i don't trust the gauge my sister said if its close the the E then u need to get fuel asap. ill look at that one day too lol

Ok today's work was change the air filter to a aftermarket one as its cheaper then the Frisbee since they are 57 bucks for one and the after market washable one with two washable breather filters was 47 bucks so i went that way and it gives the car a little bit of a beefy noise too. and i started stripping back the bonnet for rust removal and painting. and then some primer on the exposed bits so they don't rust up over night i will do the roof and the boot tomorrow i also need to get some better wet and dry the stuff i had was too hardcore and left some scratches.

here is some pics for now of the work Ive got to make up some brackets tomorrow for the bits and pieces after removing the old air filter
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 5:23 am 
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Very cool.
Is this your first Barina/Swift?
I have a '90, a '91 and two '93 five-doors. The '91 is an auto. Three of them have standard air-conditioning and two have tow-bars. I built the engine in one of the '93's in '07.
My neighbour has a '93 three-door with air-con and her sister has a '93 five-door with air-con and power steering. I just last week rebuilt the carb in the three-door and stripped out the fuel tank as it was full of water. The three-door is the only one of the six cars with a stock tachometer. I ran an aftermarket tach in one of my '93's for a while just spliced into the coil wire.
The '90 just blew its clutch so I drove it home clutchless (these guys don't mind clutchless shifting at all). I haven't started pulling it down yet but I plan to rebuild the engine while I have it out.
But, today I started pulling the engine out of one of the '93's as I just got it a few weeks ago for $100 with an apparently blown engine. I just pulled the sump and the crank and bearings are all fine but three of the four pistons are very tight in the bores so I've sprayed INOX oil into the cylinders to try to loosen them up. Tomorrow I'll pull the head off and get the block out so I can drop them off this week for milling and boring. One of these two engines I want to bore and stroke this time.

If you want air-conditioning it's probably just a matter of buying the complete system out of a wreck and installing it into yours. I hate air-conditioning so I've never used it in any of my cars.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 6:12 am 
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yes this is my first one.

When u say spliced into the coil wire? what one was that do you mind posting a picture for me so i can use it for reference whenever i buy one and do it.

as for air conditioning there is a reason i want it. seen the temps up in brizzy lately? its boiling and sitting in traffic in this car its like omg sweat sweat sweat


ill get around to doing more two one of these one day preferably a 2 door swift, if these cars are anything like a VAUXHALL nova then most engines fit in them easy. i know the mk3 up does as i had one in the Uk for a bit and i put a v6 in it so if im going to do anything with engine mods it will be a new engine this poor engine is getting close to the 300,000 mark think we are at 260 now

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 6:35 am 
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Doonster wrote:
yes this is my first one.

When u say spliced into the coil wire? what one was that do you mind posting a picture for me so i can use it for reference whenever i buy one and do it.

as for air conditioning there is a reason i want it. seen the temps up in brizzy lately? its boiling and sitting in traffic in this car its like omg sweat sweat sweat


ill get around to doing more two one of these one day preferably a 2 door swift, if these cars are anything like a VAUXHALL nova then most engines fit in them easy. i know the mk3 up does as i had one in the Uk for a bit and i put a v6 in it so if im going to do anything with engine mods it will be a new engine this poor engine is getting close to the 300,000 mark think we are at 260 now


I don't recall how I ran the tach as I only used it for a few months before I decided I didn't need it.
I'm used to riding bikes in full leather and that's way hotter than sitting in a car so it doesn't bother me. My neighbour's sister's car has a solid aluminium shift knob which is untouchable in summer - very silly idea :-)
I've had to drive my neighbour's three-door a bit lately and I don't like it at all. I'd hate to have to crawl into the back seat for any reason.
I built ours in '07 purely because it spat the head gasket. Compression just before that was still 195psi at 250,000kms. Now it's 240psi as I took 1mm off the head. The six that we have are all between 220-300,000kms which is testimony to how enjoyable and economical they are to drive.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 8:49 am 
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There's a tach signal wire in the cluster harness - I think it's brown - the Suzuki GLX versions had the tach fitted as standard.

First a question - what's the second breather filter (the one near the brake master cylinder) connected to?

Also a suggestion - get rid of the breather connected to the PCV line, plumb it back into the air filter like it used to be on the "frisbee", if the pancake filter you're using know does not have a vent fitting then find one that does. I've also found that the smaller diameter pancake filters, like you have, cause the engine to stumble at around 1500~1800 rpm if you're driving with a "light" foot - the larger ones are better. If I'm not mistaken the one I'm using is a K&N 60-1010.

With the setup you're using you'll have a fine mist of oil from that breather which settles on everything nearby and the dust sticks to it and makes a mess - oh - don't discard the original housing without removing the HIC (hot idle compensator) from it - it can be retrofitted to the pancake filter.

BTW - that's not a secondary "waste gate", it's a throttle plate - that's the Aisin double barelled carburetor and it has a vacuum operated secondary which, at least in my experience, will stick if the car is not driven hard enough to actuate it frequently.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 11:11 am 
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fordem wrote:
First a question - what's the second breather filter (the one near the brake master cylinder) connected to?


The second breather filter is the noisy sucker thing that comes off the bottom of the air filter housing. No idea what it does though :-)

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 1:38 pm 
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OK - based on the manual - I'm guessing pulse air control, it connects to that pipe that comes around the cambelt cover to the exhaust manifold. My car doesn't have that, nor EGR which I can also see on yours.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 1:55 pm 
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fordem wrote:
OK - based on the manual - I'm guessing pulse air control, it connects to that pipe that comes around the cambelt cover to the exhaust manifold. My car doesn't have that, nor EGR which I can also see on yours.


I thought the PAIR was the two vacuum chambers on the rear _left_ corner of the carb?
The hoses go to two electrical things on the firewall.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 2:52 pm 
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ausgixxerpilot wrote:
fordem wrote:
OK - based on the manual - I'm guessing pulse air control, it connects to that pipe that comes around the cambelt cover to the exhaust manifold. My car doesn't have that, nor EGR which I can also see on yours.


I thought the PAIR was the two vacuum chambers on the rear _left_ corner of the carb?
The hoses go to two electrical things on the firewall.


I'm not certain we're discussing the same thing here - first I've never seen the pulse air system (which is what I assume you refer to as PAIR), it's not fitted to my car, but based on the manual, pulse air has no connections to the carburettor or any vacuum chambers.

Next - assuming rear_left_corner to be close to the firewall and approximately center of the engine compartment - the vacuum chambers there would/should be the fast idle cam opener, and the a/c idle up actuator. The fast idle goes to a thermally operated switch somewhere on the back of the engine, the idle up actuator goes to an electrically operated solenoid vacuum switch.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 3:18 pm 
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fordem wrote:
ausgixxerpilot wrote:
fordem wrote:
OK - based on the manual - I'm guessing pulse air control, it connects to that pipe that comes around the cambelt cover to the exhaust manifold. My car doesn't have that, nor EGR which I can also see on yours.


I thought the PAIR was the two vacuum chambers on the rear _left_ corner of the carb?
The hoses go to two electrical things on the firewall.


I'm not certain we're discussing the same thing here - first I've never seen the pulse air system (which is what I assume you refer to as PAIR), it's not fitted to my car, but based on the manual, pulse air has no connections to the carburettor or any vacuum chambers.

Next - assuming rear_left_corner to be close to the firewall and approximately center of the engine compartment - the vacuum chambers there would/should be the fast idle cam opener, and the a/c idle up actuator. The fast idle goes to a thermally operated switch somewhere on the back of the engine, the idle up actuator goes to an electrically operated solenoid vacuum switch.


The big pair of vacuum chambers to the left of this shot and they connect to the electrical things in the other shot on the firewall. I don't recall why I thought they were the Pulse Air Injection so I'm probably wrong. I'm not sure any of my cars still have this system connected anyway, whatever it's for. I think you're probably right about the big hose being the Pulse Air though as it makes more sense to me. I only have that steel pipe from the mainifold on one of my cars.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 10:11 pm 
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fordem wrote:
There's a tach signal wire in the cluster harness - I think it's brown - the Suzuki GLX versions had the tach fitted as standard.

can you clearly describe this for me i suck at electrics i usually get someone else to do this stuff for me

fordem wrote:
First a question - what's the second breather filter (the one near the brake master cylinder) connected to?

looks like its cumming from the manifold so i think its for warmth or something lol it makes one heck of a noise ill demonstrate it later with a video.

fordem wrote:
Also a suggestion - get rid of the breather connected to the PCV line, plumb it back into the air filter like it used to be on the "frisbee", if the pancake filter you're using know does not have a vent fitting then find one that does. I've also found that the smaller diameter pancake filters, like you have, cause the engine to stumble at around 1500~1800 rpm if you're driving with a "light" foot - the larger ones are better. If I'm not mistaken the one I'm using is a K&N 60-1010.
seems to be very good so far idles much better then it did before. and ive tested for the mist nothing so far and this car leaks that much oil it prob wouldn't make a difference

fordem wrote:
With the setup you're using you'll have a fine mist of oil from that breather which settles on everything nearby and the dust sticks to it and makes a mess - oh - don't discard the original housing without removing the HIC (hot idle compensator) from it - it can be retrofitted to the pancake filter.
yea look at the photos i did that today you can see it in there.

fordem wrote:
BTW - that's not a secondary "waste gate", it's a throttle plate - that's the Aisin double barelled carburetor and it has a vacuum operated secondary which, at least in my experience, will stick if the car is not driven hard enough to actuate it frequently.

lol i just pulled it appart and put it back together when i did my apprentaship thats what we called them

rust Eww
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and then the engine. i made my bracket now so all is looking better.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 2:54 am 
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some more pics and the video as promised

second coat of primer one more rub down then its being matt blacked
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black rust prof primer for the bracket
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hub caps got done too lol
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better picture of the roof rust
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inside the car
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video
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the matt black should be dry later so i will post a pic up later of it done tommrow is attack of the roof and top of the doors and boot :(

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 3:03 am 
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matt black anyone
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 3:30 am 
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Doonster wrote:
matt black anyone


That looks pretty glossy for matt black?
We did my daughter's Hyundai interior with cans of vinyl black spray and it works really well on the seats, carpets and head linings. Like a new car but it's not so good on the plastic trims. It tends to spawl and scratches easily but maybe there's a vinyl primer we should've used first?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 6:50 am 
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yea i use plastic primer for inside shite
and yea its matt black must be the flash and the awesome spray job i did lol
i should have the roof and tops of the doors done tommrow got a long day of de rusting ahead of me after i lay some turf out the back.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 9:23 am 
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ausgixxerpilot wrote:
The big pair of vacuum chambers to the left of this shot and they connect to the electrical things in the other shot on the firewall. I don't recall why I thought they were the Pulse Air Injection so I'm probably wrong. I'm not sure any of my cars still have this system connected anyway, whatever it's for. I think you're probably right about the big hose being the Pulse Air though as it makes more sense to me. I only have that steel pipe from the mainifold on one of my cars.


I've only got one vacuum actuator there - it's used by the a/c idle up mechanism to increase the idle speed when the a/c compressor clutch engages to compensate for the additional load - however - I have a 5 speed. Looking at the manual, the automatic has an idle up mechanism located in that area, so, if that picture was taken on a car with an auto tranny, that's most likely what the second one is.

Now - what year cars are those and do you have spare carburettor jets or access to spare jets? The earlier cars had larger main jets and I've been looking for these for a while - so if you have any that you're willing to part with, let me know the sizes and let's see what we can work out.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 9:37 am 
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Doonster

It's been a couple of years since I've taken the cluster out, so I really can't give an accurate description of what it looks like back there - it shouldn't be too hard to find - there will be a couple of plugs that connect to a printed film circuit on the back of the cluster, one of them will have a brown wire which probably will not have a matching contact on the printed film.

Having looked at the picture of your dash - if you're going to get an after market tach, just wire it as per the instructions and forget about the tach wire.

As for the oil mist, give it time - the first thing that happens is that the breather filter will trap the oil coming out and eventually the filter fabric becomes saturated with oil and then the blowby gasses bubble through the oil and take it every where

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 9:49 am 
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fordem wrote:
ausgixxerpilot wrote:
The big pair of vacuum chambers to the left of this shot and they connect to the electrical things in the other shot on the firewall. I don't recall why I thought they were the Pulse Air Injection so I'm probably wrong. I'm not sure any of my cars still have this system connected anyway, whatever it's for. I think you're probably right about the big hose being the Pulse Air though as it makes more sense to me. I only have that steel pipe from the mainifold on one of my cars.


I've only got one vacuum actuator there - it's used by the a/c idle up mechanism to increase the idle speed when the a/c compressor clutch engages to compensate for the additional load - however - I have a 5 speed. Looking at the manual, the automatic has an idle up mechanism located in that area, so, if that picture was taken on a car with an auto tranny, that's most likely what the second one is.

Now - what year cars are those and do you have spare carburettor jets or access to spare jets? The earlier cars had larger main jets and I've been looking for these for a while - so if you have any that you're willing to part with, let me know the sizes and let's see what we can work out.


Nope, they're all manuals. Do you mean that the top chamber above the conjoined pair is for the A/C?
My four cars and my neighbour's two are all '90-'93 MH models.
If I need bigger jets I drill them myself, have you tried that?
The mains in these are 092's and 153's.
What sizes do you need?
I have heaps of motorcycle jets but I never thought to see if they'd fit these car carbs.
They look exactly the same though.
I have some Holley jets somewhere as well but they're bigger from memory (I haven't worked on a non-metric car in over twenty years and have never touched a non-metric bike) and unlikely to be metric sizes or threads.

To get back to this thread, my girlfriend says she wouldn't mind if I put air-conditioning into the number one car (only way we can keep track of which one we're talking about is by numbers) so I can probably put together a thread of what is involved in transfering the system from an A/C car to a non-A/C car. I'll probably pull the A/C system out of the one I took the engine out of today but I have two engines to build now (plus two bike engines) so I might decide to leave it until later on. I'm definately pulling the A/C out of the number four car though.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:04 am 
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Jets first - I haven't tried drilling - although I do have a friend who has the required drills (and has done it) and is willing to help out. It's more of a "fail-safe" thing for me, I like to have a spare, so if I mess up, I can just put the spare in.

Vacuum actuators next - my car has two vacuum actuators controlled by electrical solenoid valves, but one on each side of the carburettor - one operates with the a/c compressor clutch circuit and the other with lights, blower fan, radiator fan and rear screen defogger.

Only thing I can suggest now is that you have someone watch yours whilst you flip the switches with the engine idling - see which one does what.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 2:17 pm 
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fordem wrote:
Do you have spare carburettor jets or access to spare jets? The earlier cars had larger main jets and I've been looking for these for a while - so if you have any that you're willing to part with, let me know the sizes and let's see what we can work out.

If I recall, the Aisin carb might have come with the 103's standard in the 1.3L engine.
Unless you are talking the 2F Land Cruiser straight 6 (which has larger and more expensive jets) we can go higher for very little money. If the jets you are requesting are for the Land Cruiser, and you want OEM, then you will pay more. Obviously, 103's drilled will be a cheaper alternative for you.
If you are serious about getting jets, send me a PM with your specific application and whether you want OEM or stockers redrilled.

(Not hijacking your thread, Mate...nice job on the engine)
Back to the thread:
Fordem is trying to get you to hook your PCV, I think. It's a win/win situation if that's what you do.
If your carb starts giving you headaches, you can find a schematic on this site. Here is the link:
viewtopic.php?f=31&t=41569
(which also mentions that I might be able to help you source out parts for your carb, but you should be OK in Australia for parts...)
The tach is easy to hook up; look on ebay for those tachs mentioned on this site and they have schematics you can see. Glow Shift tachs have a review in the "Product Reviews" section.
Since we're on the Aisin Carb subject, I thought I had posted these somewhere, but here are a few shots of the carb I'm talking about:
Image

Image

Image

Image
again, I'm only talking about the primary jets.

Now, on your A/C question, here's a shot of my car with a similar engine, but with factory A/C installed:
Image
It's nothing fancy, but it works fine out here where the temps are currently 38C/100F in the shade, and it's worked fine for years.
You should have seen the look on an old fellow, when...at a hamburger stand the other day he realized it had A/C. Guess he thought only large cars and trucks have A/C. :shock: :shock: :shock:
Do you happen to have a sticker under the hood which mentions the valve adjustment?

Little long, this post...but hope it helps.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 5:58 pm 
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the ac system i can get an aftermarket one for 100bucks fitted ill go look at the scrappy today.

as for the carb i put a standard jet back in mine and i have a spare for it now too cost me 23 bucks to be exact.

ive had them oil breathers on cars for years never being a problem. i cant plumb this one back into the box as the box is far two small! lol

im looking at the tachos now and might go get one today and see how i go.......

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:46 pm 
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fordem wrote:
Jets first - I haven't tried drilling - although I do have a friend who has the required drills (and has done it) and is willing to help out. It's more of a "fail-safe" thing for me, I like to have a spare, so if I mess up, I can just put the spare in.

Vacuum actuators next - my car has two vacuum actuators controlled by electrical solenoid valves, but one on each side of the carburettor - one operates with the a/c compressor clutch circuit and the other with lights, blower fan, radiator fan and rear screen defogger.

Only thing I can suggest now is that you have someone watch yours whilst you flip the switches with the engine idling - see which one does what.


Do you mean that jets of any size are totally unavailable where you are?
If you need to go back down on the jets you can often fill them with solder and drill them smaller. Fill the bowl end with plasticine or similar and drop a blob of silicone into the jet and then put the iron against the jet to ensure the solder totally fills the jet.
I really haven't looked at the various things hanging of the carbs - other than trying to sort the spaghetti of vacuum hoses too many times :-)
I don't think any of my cars have the PAIR connected anyway so it doesn't matter to me whether it's working or not, as long as it isn't affecting the carburetor.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:50 pm 
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Location: Perth, West Oz
Doonster wrote:
the ac system i can get an aftermarket one for 100bucks fitted ill go look at the scrappy today.


Is that a new price?
I doubt I could transfer even an OEM complete A/C system into a non-A/C car for $100 labour - let alone the parts.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2009 12:57 am 
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its from a mate and i will supply the system. i can get a 2nd hand om system from the wreckers for 110 or an aftermarket one almost new for 100. so all is good im not sure that i want to atm what i want is to plug up that manifold noisy line if i can if it serves no point at all. make the car much quieter i now have a tacho in it 120 bucks later i thought about it and said i can take it with me when im finished. will post pics later.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2009 1:35 am 
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ok so ive almost finished the car now get rid of the rust added the Tacho and now all is running well all i want to do is get another manifold without that hot breather on it and all should be good.

Pictures

Image
Image
Image
engine bay
Image
Image
this is the tacho signal wire i ran it from
Image
and the tacho
Image
And the sticker that someone wanted to reference from
Image
Image

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