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 Post subject: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 7:24 pm 
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Location: Oss, the Netherlands
Few weeks ago my Swift blew a crank seal on the highway. Loud rattle when I got home :( :( Took the valve cover off next day, head has some damage on the first cam bearing and when I took a close look at the cam I noticed this:

image_id: 18104

A nice groove all the way around :( (Suprf1y will have a PM soon ;) )

I haven't taken apart the rest yet, because it's freezing outside. Pretty sure it's dead though. I have a '91 engine in good condition, but I can't put it in because I took off the head. Plan was to clean, do some simple porting and polishing, rebuild it and swap it with the '95 head. That one would get the same treatment, but with SS valves, new guides, everything. '91 bottom end would get GTi rods, 75 mm Vitara pistons, balanced crank assembly, everything it needs for a turbo :) Still looking into Megasquirt and bike TB's.

Now the plan has slightly changed. '91 bottom end only gets a hone and a set of new rings. Pistons are soaking right now:

image_id: 18101

Already did some of the headwork:

One of the intakes. I only removed the casting lines, cut the small copper pipes, did some bowl blending and gave it a rough finish (looks shiny because of the flash) This is the first time I ever did something like this, so if anyone has any comments or hints, please tell me:

image_id: 18102 image_id: 18103 image_id: 18107

Gasket kit is on the way, so are the piston rings and I also ordered a block style hone and a ring compressor. When I get the rings I might as well do P&E's easy balancing trick, but I have to get my hands on some sort of scale for that first.
I will try to finish both head and bottom end this week and hopefully the outside temps will go up soon so I can get to work on the car :) For those interested, I'll keep you posted.


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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:24 pm 
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The headwork looks good.
Don't remove any more material than that, and do the same on the exhaust side.

Is that one of my cams?

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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 10:48 pm 
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Location: walsh,alberta,canada
dont get to over-zealous and take 2 much out of exh side-i ported my 1.0 TURBO head,went TOO FAR,hit water jacket on 3rd cyl,r.h.side of exh port :cry: :cry: :cry: head was already rebuilt :oops: cleaned it out,ruffed it up,filled waterjacket up with j-b weld,will drill out some j b to open jacket back up(i put achunk of a wood dowel in passage so jb wouldnt go around corner).the kicker?i was pretty much done,was polished,had a new bit,thought-"hey,i`ll take aLITTLE more out.......... :shock: :thwack: :loser: :WTF: i have another turbo head,but i`m driving that car,dont have much $$$$$right now.my $800 spent on engine rebuild just went up,wife DID NOT CARE about $800,until i F!@#$%^& that head up.live`n`learn,iguess one of my other cars,over 300,000k
Attachment:
AUT_0110.JPG

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2"exhaust,no cats/resonator
3 tech 6*gear
3 tech turbo grind cam
3 tech cylinder head/w/port,polish,blend,oversized s/s valves
gti brake swap
89 white gti twincam....need I say more?
92 metro aka ''blue lump of coal''
92 white metro lsi vert
91 blue chevy sprint (gas sipper)


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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 10:46 am 
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Location: Oss, the Netherlands
suprf1y wrote:
The headwork looks good.
Don't remove any more material than that, and do the same on the exhaust side.


Thanks. I used a Dremel with the small 6mm sanding drums. I tried some grinding stones first, but dry doesn't work very well and wet is too messy, can't really see what I'm doing.

Quote:
Is that one of my cams?


Yes it is. I'm not sure if the damage is from the blown seal, since it looks pretty old and the damaged area in the head is far wider than the groove is. Anyway, I don't think it would be wise to use it again. You'll hear from me soon, because I want a new one. One size bigger this time :D :D (365/222 I believe?). I loved the sound and power and I want some more of both. Also need head bolts.

What I miss in the '95 is the top end 'grunt' in the lower gears. My '91 used to pull almost straight to 6500 rpm's with a nice grunt in the end, in 1st and 2nd gear, '95 stops pulling at about 5300. Top speed is considerably lower too. '95 does 145 kph where the '91 did 163. Almost 20 kph faster :shock: Found out that there are two differences: '95 has a slightly smaller intake and has EGR. Now I have a few questions to which I haven't found a clear answer yet:

Can TBI size make such a big difference, or is there more to it? My common sense tells me it can explain the better pulling in lower gears because it's more than 10% bigger, but 20 kmh higher top speed? That's a pretty high amount of extra horses :?
Would a '91 TB fit a '95? I've read about differences such as a heater, black boxes, but I can't seem to find them on both TB's I have. They aren't exactly the same in appearance, but it's close. Would it work with a '95 ECU?
How about EGR? Does the ECU like it when it's removed?

I'm looking forward to putting her back together and turn the key again. Should be alot faster when I'm finished :D :D

_________________
'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 7:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2005 5:21 pm
Posts: 353
Location: Oss, the Netherlands
Last tuesday I got some of the goodies I ordered:

Piston rings:

image_id: 18168

Gasket kit:

image_id: 18169

Haven't made any further progress yet, but it seems I'm going on holiday to France next month, in my car, so I have to get working soon =)

_________________
'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 10:13 pm 
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Posts: 1254
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Make sure the head gasket holes match up to the head and block. Some aftermarket gaskets have holes that are too small for the oil return ports.

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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 11:24 am 
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Location: Oss, the Netherlands
Thanks for the tip, I almost forgot. Just compared the old with the new one and the holes match up perfectly. Nipparts makes pretty good stuff. Here's a pic of the new one, with the old one underneath it:

image_id: 18171

At the moment I'm busy cleaning the pistons. Wish we had Simple Green here, kerosene works, but there's still a lot of cleaning to do. Got them soaking in carb cleaner now and it seems to help get rid of the remaining nasty carbon bits:

image_id: 18172

_________________
'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 4:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2005 5:21 pm
Posts: 353
Location: Oss, the Netherlands
I finished porting the head, only things left to do are getting it cleaned and shaved a little and lap the valves. New cam is on the way, tomorrow I will hone the cylinders and put the pistons back in, with the new rings on them. I will also replace the crank seals. Next week I have the cash to buy a clutch, so I can use my 'new' 1.3 flywheel :D
I also compared the TBI's and I can't find any other differences in vacuum or electric connections, besides the absence of EGR on the oldest one, so for now I will just assume it'll work. Can't wait to get going :D

_________________
'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 7:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:08 pm
Posts: 1254
Location: Ashtabula, Ohio
Looking forward to the updates.

_________________
Image
  • EcoMudder - Geo Metro Mudder
  • Project page
  • Build Video
  • 1991 4 Door Truck Conversion
  • Modified Suzuki 1.0L Engine
  • High Stall 3200 RPM Converter
  • Auto Trans with Welded Differential
  • Custom Exhaust and Intake System
  • 6" Suspension Lift & Weight Reduction
  • 27" Kenda Executioner 6 Ply ATV tires


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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 11:59 pm 
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Posts: 414
Location: florida usa
nice work, and good luck with your build! well I honestly think the accel & top speed is limited by the gearing in the '91 tranny VS. the '95 tranny! I think the gave the EGR cars lower gear ratios to "improve" economy, so saying that, the earlier G10 cars has better trannies, especially the "ALMIGHTY" :lol: G10T tranny, :twisted: thats the best(from what i have read)! if the TBI's are different, then ok, cool, i didn't know that. it would make since the '95-up G10 cars had a smaller TBI unit, to "improve" economy. I would honestly think the bigger TBI unit would have the bigger gain, cause more air can flow in. but when it comes down to the EGR valve and related stuff, I have read and heard alot about the "pros & cons" of removing it VS. keeping it! I honestly don't want to explain it all, but I would say go: no EGR. or honestly I wouldn't run it, to me, its more crap/weight in the car, they made the engine to run before they put the EGR crap in it. so I would ditch it, but thats just me!!!! I think you can get away by just using an older ECU like a '89-'91 model years. I think its 1992 when they put in the EGR crap(also when they put in the EGR in the car, they also droped the Xfi and the LSi metro models from the line up). i had a '94 5door metro, and it had the EGR crap, and I didn't like all of those vacuum hoses all over the engine bay, ugh. what a mess! lol. and oh, as far as engine parts swaping on other year engines......you can do it on certain years though. I.E. only 1983-1988 G10 engines parts are interchange able within those years! and 1989-2003 G10 engines parts are interchangable within those years! but you can swap a (for example) 1987 G10 head onto a 1994 G10 block, it will work, I was told that it will raise compression(I think), and the head its self has better flow! he told me if I wanted to go for raw power, to go for the head swap. I was/and still am *(when I get another metro) planning on doing that! and oh, i forgot, the ECU/comp will through you the "enigne light" & engine check code if you block the EGR with a '95-up ECU!



I hope that helps. I apologized if any of it is wrong, =) :blackeye: please anyone let me know. I am going by what I remember reading and talking to ppl on here. also please don't start hating me anyone for my idea of ditching the EGR, thats just my opinion, and please let me be at that! 8)




I hope that helps you out! have fun! 8)

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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 8:03 am 
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The vast majority of what you just wrote is wrong. The difference in gearing between the 91 and 95 tranny is exactly offset by the difference in wheel & tire size. EGR is a miserable patch slapped on there after the fact for emissions purposes only, but the only drawback to it is that it gets clogged up, that can be minimized by advancing the ignition timing. A properly working EGR system will not affect your engine's performance in any way. No need to break Federal emissions laws to remove something that doesn't affect you. XFI and LSI were not dropped when EGR came in, as a matter of fact all California cars got EGR right from the beginning. XFI went on through 94 and LSI went on until the car was discontinued after the 2001 year. There's no difference in the heads, no increased compression, no better flow, they're all the same from 89 - 00.

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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 10:11 am 
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Also keep in mind that he is in the Netherlands when you talk model year.

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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 10:54 am 
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Here in the Netherlands '91 and '95 tranny's are the same, so are the tire sizes. Same rpm's at the same speeds, in all gears. Differences in TBI's are small and concern only the top. The injector wires run slightly different, but that's about it, apart from EGR and throttle size. EGR difference is only in vacuum connections, which are capped on the '91 TB. Should I need EGR for passing emissions, I can plug it in. Will have to swap intake manifolds too though.

'91:
image_id: 18244
The two screws at the bottom held down a small metal plate which I removed. Looks alot like more air can get in that way. '95 doesn't have it. Injector wiring goes back over the top of the injector to the connector on the side.

'95:
image_id: 18245
Here the wiring goes to the connector along the inside edge of the TB.

I will soon know the difference between EGR and non-EGR. I used to run the non-EGR head with full advance, a +10 gear and a big cam, for 30000 km's with a pretty heavy foot. It also ran pretty rich. Still was running strong when the car rusted out on me, though today I inspected the exhaust valves and two of them show burn signs, one even has a slight crack. Time for SS valves :D

image_id: 18241

image_id: 18242

image_id: 18243

The other (EGR) block will come out soon. Again, full advance, +10 gear, big cam, heavy foot, but this one took it for only 20000 km's (until the seal popped). Same conditions, same gas mileage, both have about 125k km's on them. Wonder how those valves will look.

_________________
'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 2:13 pm 
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Location: florida usa
Woodie wrote:
The vast majority of what you just wrote is wrong. The difference in gearing between the 91 and 95 tranny is exactly offset by the difference in wheel & tire size. EGR is a miserable patch slapped on there after the fact for emissions purposes only, but the only drawback to it is that it gets clogged up, that can be minimized by advancing the ignition timing. A properly working EGR system will not affect your engine's performance in any way. No need to break Federal emissions laws to remove something that doesn't affect you. XFI and LSI were not dropped when EGR came in, as a matter of fact all California cars got EGR right from the beginning. XFI went on through 94 and LSI went on until the car was discontinued after the 2001 year. There's no difference in the heads, no increased compression, no better flow, they're all the same from 89 - 00.



ok, ok, then why was my friends '97 so slow then? i had a '94 5door, and at the time, both of our cars was stock, mine had no mods at the time, his car had the rear seats removed. and my car was faster than his, why is that? and oh both cars where automatic!!!!! so yeah, lol. and oh ok, well sorry i wasn't speaking in general, but yeah it may not affect performance, but it is more useless wieght in the car, you understand that? and break federal emissions? lol, what emissions? oh wait, where i live i don't have any emissions! and oh about the xfi and lsi models, in all the books and paperwork that i have, those models don't exist in the '93&'94 years. i dunno about the "ugly" metro the 1995- metros, i don't like how those look, i like the first and second gens.



and oh, i was talking using the heads off a mk1 G10 engine, years 1983-1988. and using one of those heads on a mk2-up G10 engine, years 1989-up engines. there is a guy on here that said the older head flows better than the "hydraulic valve heads". so yeah, lol.


and i know superf1y, i know. and oh can you please explain the head thing i am talking about that you told me! please? thank you for the help.

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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 4:16 pm 
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The Mark 1 heads flow better, and have more camshaft flexibility. They have larger chambers.
Your buddies car had a smaller tbi, and was about 300 lbs heavier. That's why they're so slow.

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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 4:18 pm 
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custom metro! wrote:
there is a guy on here that said the older head flows better than the "hydraulic valve heads". so yeah, lol.


I've been reading around on the forum the past weeks and I believe that guy was Suprf1y, I think it's in the '3cyl performance parts' topic. And now it's in this one too =)

As for model years, here the round US 96-01(?) Geo/Swift doesn't even exist. Here it's (only 1.0):

- MK1 83-89 Boxy car, carbed engine
- MK2 89-91 Round car, boxy dash, carbed engine, 'checkered' taillights
- MK3 91-95 Round car, round dash, TBI engine, smooth taillights, new bumpers
- MK3,5 95-96 Round car, round dash, TBI engine, remodeled smooth taillights, other small cosmetic changes
- MK4 96-03 Round car, Round, lighter colored dash with airbags, new headlights and bumpers, TBI engine, totally different wiring, plugs, bulbs, etc., made in Hungary. Somehow I don't like these as much as the older ones. Something to do with Hungarian vs Japanese people I guess. * =)
- MK5 05-present New Swift, no 1.0. No real Swift either, if I may say so :P

Funny thing is that appearently there are transition models, like my first one. That was a '91 with checkered taillights, boxy dash, but with TBI engine. Strange, but good for me, now I have cool taillights and bumpers on my '95 and a spare engine to put in it 8)

edit:*Don't get me wrong, Japanese culture and society are completely different compared to European and I think that reflects in the quality of their products.

_________________
'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


Last edited by Peenutzz on Mon Jul 05, 2010 5:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 4:24 pm 
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Location: florida usa
suprf1y wrote:
The Mark 1 heads flow better, and have more camshaft flexibility. They have larger chambers.
Your buddies car had a smaller tbi, and was about 300 lbs heavier. That's why they're so slow.



thank you superf1y for that! and oh ok! thank you!

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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 4:31 pm 
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Peenutzz wrote:
custom metro! wrote:
there is a guy on here that said the older head flows better than the "hydraulic valve heads". so yeah, lol.


I've been reading around on the forum the past weeks and I believe that guy was Suprf1y, I think it's in the '3cyl performance parts' topic. And now it's in this one too =)

As for model years, here the round US 96-01(?) Geo/Swift doesn't even exist. Here it's (only 1.0):

- MK1 83-89 Boxy car, carbed engine
- MK2 89-91 Round car, boxy dash, carbed engine, 'checkered' taillights
- MK3 91-95 Round car, round dash, TBI engine, smooth taillights, new bumpers
- MK3,5 95-96 Round car, round dash, TBI engine, remodeled smooth taillights, other small cosmetic changes
- MK4 96-03 Round car, Round, lighter colored dash with airbags, new headlights and bumpers, TBI engine, totally different wiring, plugs, bulbs, etc., made in Hungary. Somehow I don't like these as much as the older ones. Something to do with Hungarian vs Japanese people I guess =)
- MK5 05-present New Swift, no 1.0. No real Swift either, if I may say so :P

Funny thing is that appearently there are transition models, like my first one. That was a '91 with checkered taillights, boxy dash, but with TBI engine. Strange, but good for me, now I have cool taillights and bumpers on my '95 and a spare engine to put in it 8)




yeah thats him, lol. and sorry for that. and oh ok, i understand you only have the "gen. 2 chassis" with versions 3 & 4, and the "newer" swift, doesn't count! sorry. but yeah the usdm '95-'01 metros look like this:

gen.4 "grouper mouth bumper"
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/c ... _3door.jpg

gen.5 "razor mouth bumper"
http://www.beepbeep.com/images/vehicles/1999/8070.jpg


those are our mk.4 and mk.5, different than your gen.2 versions mk.3/5and4(restyles)

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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 7:49 am 
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custom metro! wrote:
ok, ok, then why was my friends '97 so slow then? i had a '94 5door, and at the time, both of our cars was stock, mine had no mods at the time, his car had the rear seats removed. and my car was faster than his, why is that? and oh both cars where automatic!!!!!


15% weight increase and physically larger, so more wind drag.

custom metro! wrote:
so yeah, lol. and oh ok, well sorry i wasn't speaking in general, but yeah it may not affect performance, but it is more useless wieght in the car, you understand that? and break federal emissions? lol, what emissions? oh wait, where i live i don't have any emissions!


Doesn't matter whether you have a test or not, federal law is huge fine for removing or defeating any emissions control device. What is the weight of the EGR system, three pounds?

custom metro! wrote:
and oh, i was talking using the heads off a mk1 G10 engine, years 1983-1988. and using one of those heads on a mk2-up G10 engine, years 1989-up engines. there is a guy on here that said the older head flows better than the "hydraulic valve heads". so yeah, lol.


My bad on that one, I read the "87 G10 head" as 97. Much as you don't like the GEN3 cars, I often disregard the GEN1 cars. Not that I don't like them, just don't know much about them and don't consider them.

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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 9:07 am 
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Location: florida usa
Woodie wrote:
custom metro! wrote:
ok, ok, then why was my friends '97 so slow then? i had a '94 5door, and at the time, both of our cars was stock, mine had no mods at the time, his car had the rear seats removed. and my car was faster than his, why is that? and oh both cars where automatic!!!!!


15% weight increase and physically larger, so more wind drag.

custom metro! wrote:
so yeah, lol. and oh ok, well sorry i wasn't speaking in general, but yeah it may not affect performance, but it is more useless wieght in the car, you understand that? and break federal emissions? lol, what emissions? oh wait, where i live i don't have any emissions!


Doesn't matter whether you have a test or not, federal law is huge fine for removing or defeating any emissions control device. What is the weight of the EGR system, three pounds?

custom metro! wrote:
and oh, i was talking using the heads off a mk1 G10 engine, years 1983-1988. and using one of those heads on a mk2-up G10 engine, years 1989-up engines. there is a guy on here that said the older head flows better than the "hydraulic valve heads". so yeah, lol.


My bad on that one, I read the "87 G10 head" as 97. Much as you don't like the GEN3 cars, I often disregard the GEN1 cars. Not that I don't like them, just don't know much about them and don't consider them.




well, um, ok, i didn't know that about the gen3 chassis, i never liked the look of them. and not only that but its harder to find body mods for those body style metros. but, wait so the '97 gen3 metro 3door, wieghs more than the '94 gen2 metro 5door (hatchback wagon)? thats another foot longer (realistic 6inches or so), with a little bit more metal added to the roof to change the angles of the front and rear windows to the 5door. and to me the 1st gen. looks better as far as styling wise than the gen3 metro. well don't get me wrong here, the gen3 metro is very curvy compared to the 1st and 2nd gen model metros, some people like curvy, but me....... i guess i like an edge, cause to me the 1st and 2nd gen look the best. lol and don't feel bad about not knowing much on the 1st gen chassis, i don't know much about them either! LOL


ok, well i still don't think its useful, but whatever, everyone has there opinion. and i am not tring to push my values onto people, i am not saying you are....your not. i am just stating what i think. please excuse me if i am wrong. oh well, live and learn. lol. we don't have emissions in florida, that i know of, or at least anyone i know here, hasn't went through it.

and oh, hey 3 lbs(if it wieghts that much) is every bit useful when tring to make the car lighter! lol

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i want another metro!!!!! LOL!


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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 10:06 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:27 pm
Posts: 824
Location: walsh,alberta,canada
losing weight is equal to gaining horsepower,any weight loss is a good thing,im sure my car is faster if i removed all my stereo(300 pounds worth),put a smaller battery in,loose all the extra insulation,washer fluid;but creature comforts are so nice =) esp on looooong trips :-P

_________________
89 1.0 turbo firefly
2"exhaust,no cats/resonator
3 tech 6*gear
3 tech turbo grind cam
3 tech cylinder head/w/port,polish,blend,oversized s/s valves
gti brake swap
89 white gti twincam....need I say more?
92 metro aka ''blue lump of coal''
92 white metro lsi vert
91 blue chevy sprint (gas sipper)


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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 9:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 23, 2010 9:49 am
Posts: 25
Location: hudson, wyo
if you are like me, be sure not to forget to clean out all of the fast food wrappers and pop bottles!!! gotta be 50 easy lbs. there! :ez_l0l:


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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 5:40 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 6:23 am
Posts: 1745
Location: Washington, DC
Weight is mostly safety stuff, stronger structure, bigger beams in the doors, airbag system. All GEN3 cars, even the three door, are built on the long wheelbase platform of the earlier five door cars.

I prefer the look of the GEN3 cars (exactly opposite, takes all kinds, I guess :lol: :lol: ) but very much wish for the weight of the GEN2 cars.

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91 Pontiac Firefly Turbo
10 Suzuki Kizashi


Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
Should be the name of a convenience store, not a government agency


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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 3:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2005 5:21 pm
Posts: 353
Location: Oss, the Netherlands
Got some work done today. It's not making the progress that I planned at first, but we're getting there :P If I had a properly heated workshop or garage, it would be a lot easier. Now I'm working in a freezing shed, so I can't use my new toy yet:

image_id: 18246
Not very big, but more than enough. Don't have a business to run =)

I cleaned the deck and checked the cylinders. They look very good, honing marks are still there, the ridge at the top is only visible, you can't feel it. Biggest ring gap was 0,35 mm, with a not accurately placed, used ring. Just a quick check, but I think it'll be fine.

image_id: 18258
Cylinders before honing. Still can see the marks. I think that's pretty amazing after 19 years and 120000 km of which 60k was abuse by me. Bottom end was probably just fine the way it was.

image_id: 18259 image_id: 18260
This is how they all look. Almost like new. Makes me feel happy somehow =)

I read about the check valve, especially about not to lose it. Problem is, I didn't lose it, but I can't get it out :huh:

image_id: 18261
It's loose, I can turn it, I can see the ball, but I can't get it out. Magnet doesn't work. Something I'm missing here?

_________________
'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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 Post subject: Re: 1.0 rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 10:39 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2005 5:21 pm
Posts: 353
Location: Oss, the Netherlands
Progress is still very slow, but I honed the cylinders today. I taped the rod bearings with electrical tape after cleaning them:

image_id: 18317 image_id: 18318

Got my honing device:

image_id: 18320 image_id: 18321

I used engine oil for lubrication and this is the result:

image_id: 18319 image_id: 18322

The pattern didn't turn out very pretty, but it feels nice and uniform. I'd say it's good enough a job for someone who has honed only four cylinders in his whole life, including these three :)

Almost there now. Tomorrow I will pick up my cleaned and shaved head and buy myself a clutch, oil and two filters and coolant. Cam, headbolts and exh. valves are on the way and when I got those and a torque wrench, I have everything I need. Hopefully it will be ready by the end of next week 8)

_________________
'95 Swift 1.0:

- 0,5mm oversized pistons
- mildly ported head, 1,7mm taken off
- ss exhaust valves
- 222/365 3tech cam
- +10 gear
- K&N air filter
- TBI bridge removed
- 40mm throttle and intake manifold
- srd underdrive pulley
- AASCO 3kg flywheel with GTi clutch
- GTi catback
- deleted cat, now 2" ss pipe
- 14x6J ET45 BSA Racing
- Nankang AS-1 165/55-14
- 35mm lower Apex front and rear springs
- GTi sway bar
- Turbinetech underbody brace
- Ultra Racing upper strut bar

0-100kph: unknown seconds


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