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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 8:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2011 11:29 am
Posts: 2
Location: Newton, Illinois
I have a 93 Metro, 1.0 litre. For over the last month I've had starting problems. It is firing and getting fuel. Replaced the cap, rotor, plugs. and wires and got it to run. A few days later it did the same thing. Both times that I had starting problems the weather had changed to very wet conditions. The service manager at th local GM dealorship told me to change the Map sensor. I did and a few days later on a sunny morning, it wouldn't start. Later that day it started. Put the old map sensor back on and it has run for the last few weeks. It sat for almost a week without driving. I went out to start it this morning (Very wet conditions again and wouldn't start. Got home this evening and tried to start it......cranked for about 5 seconds or more and it finally started..... was flooded badly. Any advice..... Could it be a tps or maybe an o-ring leaking around the injector? ( Read about these issues another member had with a 1.0 Metro). Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 10:02 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 12:32 pm
Posts: 40
Location: Rhode Island
I dont know if this will help or not but I had trouble with hard starting not too long ago with my 94 Metro. I found the distributor was getting condensation in it and corroding the contacts (became chalky and the rotor was barely making contact on some of the badly eaten parts of the cap). A new dizzy cap solved the problem for a few months, but it would come back again, until I finally smartened up and made a gasket/seal for the base of the cap from some gasket paper. Although you changed out the cap and rotor if you're getting a bunch of moisture in there the rotor may have to scrape a clean area off the contacts to get enough juice to the plugs to fire, hence the long crank times. Not sure if this is the actual situation but just my theory on it.

That fixed about 90% of the problem...but I occasionally got hard starting issues (never refused to start though). I realized that my IAT sensor in the air cleaner housing was broken (wire snapped at the plug). I havent had bad starting issues since I spliced in some good wire. This could be a coincidence though, but figured that it may help. I also have a bad ECT sensor which I'm finally going to get around to fixing, but I dont think that would cause a hard start (just accounts for the crumby idle from time to time).

I hope this helped a little

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94 Geo Metro "Molly"
1966 Volkswagen Beetle
1992 Jeep Comanche Pickup "Jackie"
1989 Ford F-350 Dually (welding rig)
2003 Mazda Protege5
1988 Honda CRX
1971 Honda CB350


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:43 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Alberta, Canada
Can you do a compression test warm and cold and post numbers? This can be an issue and if its related to that there is no point in chasing anything else down. If its good, then you can stick with tracking it down elsewhere in the system.

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1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 11:06 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2011 11:29 am
Posts: 2
Location: Newton, Illinois
Thanks for the info... I think I fixed the problem. I installed a new ignition coil. So far it has started every day, even when it has been raining. The local Gm dealorship couldn't diagnose the problem, but with the information of members on this site, it helped tremendously. Thanks again to everyone.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 7:27 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 23, 2013 7:30 am
Posts: 6
Location: New York
My 93 metro 1.0L wont start wont even crank or turnover i just put in the ford starter solenoid i dont know if i missed any steps can anyone help?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:42 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2005 2:46 pm
Posts: 883
Location: Arizona
You installed a part that does not belong on a car . To do that you had to hack factory stuff instead of using OEM parts , how could we help you ? Not something most people do around here :roll:


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:02 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2010 9:16 am
Posts: 412
Location: sidney, nebraska
He may have installed the fore solenoid in place of the relay that other people have installed when the ignition switch burns. Same function, bigger part. But if not then there could be issues.

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"If you think education is expensive, try ignorance." - Derek Bok


1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed 3-door hatchback "herbie"
1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed convertible "sportie"


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:19 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2005 2:46 pm
Posts: 883
Location: Arizona
I've had many of these cars and still do , drove them more then a million miles and never had ignition switch burn. If it did to him he has other problem he has not found or fixed , so now he created new problem by using parts from other cars. Don't think that's a good way to fix anything, in fact I'm pretty sure ............


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 5:48 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 23, 2013 7:30 am
Posts: 6
Location: New York
ok so even when i didnt have the part put in it wouldnt start with out a jump every time i turned the key it would click then all the lights on the dash would shut off but the battery would still read 13.4V so whats the problem?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 4:47 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 23, 2013 7:30 am
Posts: 6
Location: New York
I have a 91 merto 1.0 and im having a starting problem i try to turn the key all the way to start and then all of the power gets cut off and everything reset i dont know if maybe the ignition solenoid is bad or the wires running to the start is bad what i did was intall a starter solenoid were i put the key in the on position and stick a screw driver in between the solenoid to start the car any ideas??


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 8:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:19 pm
Posts: 344
Location: vancouver island, canada
i would start at the battery. make sure the terminals are good, clean and tight.it sounds like there is a main wire somewhere that is not making proper contact. real common problem with gm's and there side post terminals. most people don't realize its the bolt that makes the contact and they do go bad. then check all your main cables check resistance with a multimeter could have to much internal resistance. then clean all the cable contacts as well at the bolts. somewhere there is a bad connection that will allow some power to get through but cant handle the power a starter needs which can be upwards of 100 amps. every time i have seen this problem its a bad/loose battery terminal or cable.

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92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


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