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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:43 am 

Joined: Tue Oct 19, 2010 9:16 am
Posts: 412
Location: sidney, nebraska
I have seen the question asked but no real answer as to how to do it. While working on the G10 for my vert I came up with a plan. I am familiar with the G10, it may work with the 13's and 16's too. I don't know.

CAUTION: If you do as I did, you will be building a pressure vessel. Any errors could be dangerous. Proceed at your own risk.

I noticed this port next to the oil pressure sensor. It is in the same oil galley as the oil pressure sensor which is the main galley.

I also noticed it will accept a 1/4" NPT fitting. I used a brass 1/4" x 2 1/2" nipple. installed with Teflon tape. It is a tight fit with the oil pressure sensor but there is clearance.

Next I built my pre-luber, while they are readily available, time and money are premium so I built mine. I am secure in my abilities to build such items. If you have any reservations as to yours please seek the assistance of a qualified professional. As stated earlier this is a pressure vessel. Proceed at your own risk.

I started with a 2 foot length of 3" PVC schedule 40 pipe. Schedule 40 is rated for 200+ PSI. This is important. then I added a cap and a threaded adaptor with threaded plug. Glue it well, you don't want any leaks.

I next drilled and tapped near the bottom for 1/4" NPT and added a ball valve and 1/4" NPT to 1/4" compression adaptor. I then connected a length of plastic tubing to the adaptor. Using a clear tubing allows one to watch the oil flow.

Next I drilled and tapped a 1/8" NPT hole near the top for an air pressure gauge. Other than proper gluing practices, this the most important piece for safety reasons.

To the cap I added a tire valve stem. This is an area where options can be exercised. You could drill and tap for a valve and air tool nipple so long you have a functional regulator on you air compressor.

Close valve and fill with water to check for any leaks. Repair as necessary. I used Teflon tape on all threaded connections.

Connect the plastic tubing to the pipe fitting that was installed earlier.

I secured pre-luber to front bumper with a rubber bungee cord.

A chamber this size will hold almost 3 quarts of oil. I added half a bottle of break in additive and two quarts of oil. Keep the oil level below the pressure gauge. Add the threaded plug and tighten. Important: pressurize to no more than 80psi!!! I maintained the pressure between 60 - 80 psi and watched thru the oil fill hole in valve cover. When I saw oil flowing in the lifter valley I began hand rotating the engine. Watch the clear oil line. When you see bubbles/foam appear, close valve to prevent adding air to your freshly lubed engine. Check and adjust oil level as needed.

Disconnect line and plug/cap port/fitting. I plugged the fitting since I will add a oil pressure gauge later.

When I assembled the engine the lifters were dry. I did not soak or exercise them in oil. when I started engine for first time I had one slight lifter tick which cleared up in less that 5 minutes.

"If you think education is expensive, try ignorance." - Derek Bok

1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed 3-door hatchback "herbie"
1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed convertible "sportie"

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