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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 5:33 am 
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Location: N Portland Oregon
The car starts and drives really well. I pulled the oil cap off and noticed this. I am saving to do a full timing/tune up/fluid chang on the car. But when I went out to start the car and check all the fluids and stuff, that's when I noticed the frothy foam butter in the oil cap. Do you guys think this is a blown head gasket. I took it for a test drive and didn't notice anything wrong, I.e. overheating or loss of power or steaming. I am gonna do a compression test and return with the results.

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1994 Suzuki Swift GA SOHC. 4/5
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 5:57 am 
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Location: sidney, nebraska
Some condensation will be normal due to heating and cooling cycles and the level of condensation will vary depending on the area and the climate you live in, like the great wet north west. The PVC system helps reduce the condensation. Check the PCV system for proper function.

Start and run the engine with the radiator cap removed while you warm it up for the compression test. What for large amounts of bubbles or a launching of coolant.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:27 am 
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Agreed. I don't think you will find your head gasket gone. Thats just normal condensation buildup, don't be concerned.

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1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:46 pm 
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Cool thanks guys. Im going to do the compression test soon before I start driving this car as my main vehicle. Ill check the pcv and clean it all out. The oil level is spot on. The coolant is also the same. Clean enough too. I'll do some more digging in and see just to be sure.

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1994 Suzuki Swift GA SOHC. 4/5
Vogtland lowering coils
Ngk plugs
8mm silicon wires.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 5:12 pm 
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Location: Vancouver, WA
Short trips will make that build up worse.

Unless you're blowing a large amount of steam, building cooling system pressure very quickly, or finding a chocolate shake on the dipstick it's very unlikely to be a blown hg.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 11:41 pm 
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Island Inbreeder
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Location: Emerald city Washington
HOLY CRAP.! you want fry's with that shake...???
.
+1 on above multiple answers
Sir that car needs to be driven the oil is doing it's job and suspending the water the problem just not getting hot enough to boil off water ...
.As said before the water/condensate in oil is normal
what is not normal is how the car is being cared for.
I see this alot because I live on a small island and the owners of the cars
I've seen treat there cars like through away cars......
Don't understand about regular maintenance like oil change and why there battery last two years
short trips is very hard on these cars the oil should be changed 2 times a year or 3000,miles which ever comes first


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 5:19 pm 
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don't worry, chief. i deleted one of your double posts. :-P

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 11:41 pm 
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t3 ragtop wrote:
don't worry, chief. i deleted one of your double posts. :-P

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thanks man .. Some one does care about our little dying board teamswift.net
...jv&s
.

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t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 4:24 am 
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I bought this car not too long ago. I have only drivin the car about 4 miles. I will change the fluids and give it a tune up before I start driving it.

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1994 Suzuki Swift GA SOHC. 4/5
Vogtland lowering coils
Ngk plugs
8mm silicon wires.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 10:24 am 
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Location: Brainerd Minnesota
BikeAmusPrime wrote:
I bought this car not too long ago. I have only drivin the car about 4 miles. I will change the fluids and give it a tune up before I start driving it.

That's my standard procedure with older used cars. All fluids, including transmission & radiator, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, brake fluid flush, and all new filters. Then I have a "reference point". Congrats on you new car.

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Extreme Make Over....SnowFish Addiction

1991 Metro Xfi Sport, Crower F12142 Cam, +2 degrees on adjustable sprocket, .020 Over, Balanced & Blue Printed, 3.79 final drive, WhiteLine Bushings Everywhere, 185/60R14's, TBI Bridge Delete, Edelbrock Air Cleaner, Stainless Header, 2 Inch Exhaust, Magnaflow GlassPack, Swift Twin Exit Muffler.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 4:43 pm 
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Location: vancouver island, canada
SnowFish wrote:
BikeAmusPrime wrote:
I bought this car not too long ago. I have only drivin the car about 4 miles. I will change the fluids and give it a tune up before I start driving it.

That's my standard procedure with older used cars. All fluids, including transmission & radiator, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, brake fluid flush, and all new filters. Then I have a "reference point". Congrats on you new car.




Really good advise on the brake fluid flush. Most people don't do that unless they are changing a caliper or cylinder. But it should be done every 5 years or sooner if you live in a very humid environment. That's the #1 cause of caliper and cylinder failures. Is moisture in the fluid.

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92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 3:39 pm 
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Location: N Portland Oregon
redneck racing wrote:
SnowFish wrote:
BikeAmusPrime wrote:
I bought this car not too long ago. I have only drivin the car about 4 miles. I will change the fluids and give it a tune up before I start driving it.

That's my standard procedure with older used cars. All fluids, including transmission & radiator, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, brake fluid flush, and all new filters. Then I have a "reference point". Congrats on you new car.




Really good advise on the brake fluid flush. Most people don't do that unless they are changing a caliper or cylinder. But it should be done every 5 years or sooner if you live in a very humid environment. That's the #1 cause of caliper and cylinder failures. Is moisture in the fluid.


I nornally allway do all of those things. I have a car lift. So doing the flush and pads/rotors is pretty simple. Really quick too. I have all the stuff to do a full service on this car. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, new coil, pcv, all filters and fluids, new clutch cable, tires, pads, shoes, going to run my motorvac on it and a couple other things too.

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1994 Suzuki Swift GA SOHC. 4/5
Vogtland lowering coils
Ngk plugs
8mm silicon wires.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 3:43 pm 
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Im going to do timing stuff will all the seals and water pump. Plus some of the other stuff like oilpan seal, distributor seal, valve cover, and everything else affiliated with those jobs.

The car runs really good. I think I should adjust the lifters too. But everything is tight. I have new struts and some bushings too.

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1994 Suzuki Swift GA SOHC. 4/5
Vogtland lowering coils
Ngk plugs
8mm silicon wires.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 2:18 pm 
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Image

These are the plugs.


Image

These are the plugs pulled out in order

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1994 Suzuki Swift GA SOHC. 4/5
Vogtland lowering coils
Ngk plugs
8mm silicon wires.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 11:56 pm 
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I will do the compression test soon enough. But this seems like a wet plug. Not crazy because its not smoking. But not dry either.

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1994 Suzuki Swift GA SOHC. 4/5
Vogtland lowering coils
Ngk plugs
8mm silicon wires.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 12:00 am 
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The pcv worked. If I used light suction/blow and it could go both ways. But if I used a heavier amount itwould only go one way.

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1994 Suzuki Swift GA SOHC. 4/5
Vogtland lowering coils
Ngk plugs
8mm silicon wires.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 12:41 am 
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Location: vancouver island, canada
It should only go one way.

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92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 4:21 pm 
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I should have all the tune up parts soon. I replaced the pcv with a good one. I have a box full of new parts. How do the plugs look? I think they look a little wet.

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1994 Suzuki Swift GA SOHC. 4/5
Vogtland lowering coils
Ngk plugs
8mm silicon wires.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 5:45 pm 
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The plugs don't look all that bad. One has oil burnt on it but nothing to get really excited about. I don't think I would run iridium like what was in there. Personally I would just run copper.

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92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 7:47 pm 
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Location: Brantford, Ontario, Canada
redneck racing wrote:
The plugs don't look all that bad. One has oil burnt on it but nothing to get really excited about. I don't think I would run iridium like what was in there. Personally I would just run copper.


:goodpost:

the g-series motors seem to like the copper plugs

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 9:59 pm 
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Location: walsh,alberta,canada
iridium plugs have a finer tip, less prone to fouling..... but don't expect many miles out of them. copper plugs work just as good.

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gti brake swap
89 white gti twincam....need I say more?
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92 white metro lsi vert
91 blue chevy sprint (gas sipper)


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 8:04 pm 
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And getting a plug good for 60,000 miles (so they say) won't do much good when ever thing else should be changed about every 20,000. I just get a full tune up every year. Keep the car running top notch. Why spend $15/plug when you can spend $2/plug

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92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 12:07 am 
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Well these were the plugs the guy I purchased the car from installed. All of his cars were well maintained. I bought this swift and a metro from him with what appears relatively new tune up parts on both Installed.

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1994 Suzuki Swift GA SOHC. 4/5
Vogtland lowering coils
Ngk plugs
8mm silicon wires.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 23, 2014 6:46 pm 
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Ive been driving it around and I have not noticed any decrease of coolant. But I have noticed alot of oil leakage from the engine and tranny.

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1994 Suzuki Swift GA SOHC. 4/5
Vogtland lowering coils
Ngk plugs
8mm silicon wires.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 9:34 pm 
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I have my snap on compression tester and I am going to do a compression test. Wjats the best way to test on these? Pull the f.I. relay and hold the throttle open and crank it over for 8 secs on each cylinder?

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1994 Suzuki Swift GA SOHC. 4/5
Vogtland lowering coils
Ngk plugs
8mm silicon wires.


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