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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2004 6:33 am 
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suprf1y wrote:
I didn't want to tell you, because I didn't want it to temper the results, but you cheated. :D

So who got the placebo parts? :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2004 9:29 am 
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If the cam sprocket is 5 degree, wouldn't that make it 10 at the crank?

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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2004 12:58 pm 
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3-banger,

there's a difference here. the relationship of the valve timing to the piston position is changed with respect to the crank position. it's not like the relationship of the distributor to the crank angle.

turbofly,

as a trained yet non-practicing machinist, i think that the work is well done. my dad retired as a machinist/ tool and die man and he thought it was a neat idea and nicely done.

there is a big difference in the actual gear that you used and the cast spoked one that i'm used to seeing. i think there's a weight difference between the 2 as well which helped to lighten the rotating mass of the cam assembly. i'm really kind of anxious to get the swap done as i expect a huge difference in the way it performs.

i thought that the red varnish on the gear was a bit of additional class! i hate to put the belt cover on and cover it up!

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2004 6:56 pm 
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Quote:
If the cam sprocket is 5 degree, wouldn't that make it 10 at the crank?

Valve timing is always expressed in crank degrees. The only exception being the lobe displacement angle, which is refferred to in cam degrees.

Quote:
there is a big difference in the actual gear that you used and the cast spoked one that i'm used to seeing.


Because there are a few different timing sprockets, check to make sure that your belt is compatible with the sprocket I sent. I think the change from square toothed belt to round tooth belt occurred in 97, but I could be wrong.

Quote:
thought that the red varnish on the gear was a bit of additional class! i hate to put the belt cover on and cover it up!





Thats sme new fangled paint. I like it too.


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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2004 8:38 pm 
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That's what I thought, just sounded like maybe Mista_Shrpnl was actually reading the cam gear and not the crank. I re-read his post and it makes sence now. :)

So are you able to put any advance in the hipo cams or will it be the same as stock. I guess that would be better anyway, so you don't have to change sprockets when you do the cam.

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Malcolm

'95 Metro 1.0 / 5 spd
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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2004 3:13 am 
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Sounds intersting.... when can we expect em in the store?


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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2004 3:30 am 
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Quote:
So are you able to put any advance in the hipo cams or will it be the same as stock.


There just isn't enough material on the lobes to be moving them around. You pretty much have to do it with a sprocket.


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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2004 6:37 am 
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Thanks to the amount of sales, and some cooperation by one of my grinders, I am now able to drop the price on the 89-up 3cyl. cams.
Details in the manufacturers section.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2004 11:24 pm 
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What kind of parts can I get for my 88 Sprint 1.0L carbed?

I am after anything,

-Steve

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There is no replacement for displacement... is an irrelevant statement at 7500RPM and 21 PSI.


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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2004 3:49 am 
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So far, just a cam, and advanced timing cam sprocket. You can try bolting on a larger carb. Try to get a good one from a Hyundai Pony, they bolt right on. A free flowing exhaust will help, too.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2004 8:08 am 
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Where can I get all this stuff, and how much will it run me?

Thanks guys,

-Steve

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There is no replacement for displacement... is an irrelevant statement at 7500RPM and 21 PSI.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2004 7:26 pm 
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Can you email me a price on one of the cam sprockets and a cam for my 95 fire fly 3 cyl standard. I want to change the timing belt and figure it would be a good time to try it. Plus will i have to run supreme fuel afterwards, or will it be ok with the reg still. I am trying to get the 3 cyl to keep up with my 2000 swift 4 cylender. Or at least make it able to go up a hill with out having to shift back to 3rd. There is no mods done to the motor as of yet. And i do not really want to try to change the motor over to a 4 or turbo it. I just want it to work the best it can for a 3 lunger. The motor runs perfect, it is always well maintained, and i already changed the plugs, wires, cap, filters, ect. Please give some sugestions on stuff i can try. But remember i do not want to get to wild. I want the car to remain reliable. And please remember i do not mind pulling the motor and ripping it apart. I have had it in and out of this car a few times.(clutch change, replaced tranny after second died, rebuilt sub frame, ect.) This is my first 3 cyl and i want to play with it a bit.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2004 11:28 am 
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you'll be happy to hear that you won't need to pull your engine to install the cam timing gear. unless you plan on exchanging your head, you won't even need to remove that. it's as easy as installing a new timing belt. :D

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 4:21 pm 
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An air intake that does not look as ugly as in the stock engine and is more streamlined and can use conical K&N filters


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 4:36 pm 
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afarooqui wrote:
An air intake that does not look as ugly as in the stock engine and is more streamlined and can use conical K&N filters


where did that come from?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 5:53 pm 
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Quote:
where did that come from?


I think he is expressing his interest in having one..., I think.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 7:07 pm 
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suprf1y wrote:
So far, just a cam, and advanced timing cam sprocket. You can try bolting on a larger carb. Try to get a good one from a Hyundai Pony, they bolt right on. A free flowing exhaust will help, too.


Well Mike but not to burst your bubble but I made that type of gear years ago. In fact I just threw out a bunch of them when I made room for my mill and two lathes. I used to make them that way until I hooked up with Philip. After that I basically dropped that idea (tho a good cheap alternitive). It's allot easier to adjust the billet cam gears than having to take the front end of your motor apart to move the timing and then re-assemble everything. There good if you want to set the timing and forget about it but if your on a dyno or at thr track and want to adjust the timing then it's a real pain.

As for the Pony carb, I've been running one on all of my Suzuki's for years. It's a great upgrade for our small carbs. For the 1.0l motors, I would say to run the 1400 carb. The 1600 carb I woudl say is too big and would be far harder to tune than the smaller 1400. One more thing guys, The Hyundai is a Canada only car. If your going to buy one of these carbs make sure to get the studs and mounting nuts, spacer for under the carb and manual choke cable at the same time. You'll need these to fit the carb onto your motor.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 7:35 pm 
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No bubble has been burst, but I've been making them for years too. At first for my sm. blk Chevy motors, and then the Mitsu race motors. We were taking SO much material off the heads,and block, for compression, that we needed to re-align the timing. I think most 3cyl. guys are looking for a little more power, but can't really justify the expense for their inexpensive little cars. For the Pony carb, they are both the same size. I know in the 70's, when Mitsubishi built them, there were differences between the 1.4, and 1.6, but in the 80's cars there were very liitle different. We used to use the lighter 1.4 crank with our lightened 1.6 pistons, and 1.4 flywheel, and smaller clutch/pressure plate.
Ever seen a 13-1 pony motor with heavily modded head, running 250 deg. at .050"/.500"lift, and 8500rpm? Its a sight. :D
BTW, did you talk to your machinist? We had a long talk on Saturday, and he told me he'd talk to you.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 7:57 pm 
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sorry yes I ment the jets were a bit smaller from hat I've seen.

Yes I talked to him yesterday. I'll try to call you when I get a chace to discuss what was talked about.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 11:44 pm 
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this is the machinist who's been working on my cam gears for the last 8-9 months ?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2004 9:30 am 
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Has anyone tried the cam on an 87-88 carbed motor? I would like to hear from them, I have a great top end in the little sprint with the 2" straight exhaust I am running, and the 12 deg advanced timing.

For comparision, my base "48hp 4 dr" can pull away from the 79 HP 3 Cyl, found in the 90's cars. I have raced my buddys swift a couple times and I pull on him, on a stock cam :)

I dont know if it can be made better, but if it could... that would be awesome.

-Steve

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There is no replacement for displacement... is an irrelevant statement at 7500RPM and 21 PSI.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2004 3:42 pm 
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Yes, I have.
The early 3cyl. motors have the greatest potential for making power.
They have a much more flexible valvetrain, and better overall port design. On the later 3cyl. motors, you are pretty much limited to a short lift(max .350" on the street) due to lifter interference from the center bearing journal, but for the early motors, I have ground cams with as much as .430" lift. That is an improvement of .100"(2.5mm)
For the street, I would recomend the 216 duration at .050"/.375 lift, or for a little more serious power, and rougher idle, 226/.395.
Stock numbers are 156/332, or 192/332 for the turbo3.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2004 8:27 pm 
how about for something carb'd ? im actually trying to find a header, or else im just gonna pull this one off and port the edges of it. the flat black spray paint baby !


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 Post subject: header
PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2004 4:40 pm 
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so you guys say theres no such thing as a header for a 1.0 engine....well looky -looky what I have......


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 Post subject: Re: header
PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2004 5:11 pm 
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Jerzzey wrote:
so you guys say theres no such thing as a header for a 1.0 engine....well looky -looky what I have......


:shock: I WANT ONE!!!!!!!!! That isht looks sweet!!! :D

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1993 GEO METRO 1.0 lsi (xfi swap)
1995 Eddie Bauer Exploder
1983 CHEVY C-10--the gas guzzler
1997 VW GTI VR6 Turbo--dead as a door nail
1994 GEO METRO 1.0 xfi (retired and parted out)
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