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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 3:10 pm 
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hey namesake :D

i missed the part from how it feels to drives with 20 psi, i quess insane. do you already made some runs with the g-tech?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 3:55 pm 
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I don't have any Gtech runs yet, but I will do some, as soon as I finish tuning the maps and installing the booster solenoid. I am sure the car can improve acceleration, because, now I am flooding the car with gas up there.

Canadian guys: Please stay on topic. You have my PM, e-mail address, and an old MS post to discuss about the MS firmware, and also, of course, to leave feedback... no improvements can be made without feedback. Regarding the source code, everything is in the zip file I sent you. There, you will find an ASM file, that's the source code in assembler. However, the mods are hard to find. YOu can easily find them by comparing both the original 029v code, and my 029vx. The main mod is in the wheel decoder subroutine. The other important mod is the Idle solenoid. It has been moved to the milliseconds section, instead of the 0,1ms one, in order to achieve 20Hz, and not 200Hz. THe rest of the mods are in the INC files.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 10:04 pm 
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Caaarlo wrote:
Canadian guys: Please stay on topic.


Exactly. This topic is about how beautiful the manifold looks, not some stand alone bs. :D


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 10:17 pm 
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Jardamuth wrote:
Caaarlo wrote:
Canadian guys: Please stay on topic.


Exactly. This topic is about how beautiful the manifold looks, not some stand alone bs. :D


Did I sound rude ?? It's just that an MS related post would take as many pages as this post.

Just to keep things organized, there is a post about my latest custom MS code:
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?p=230086

And another one with the first code mods, in case someone wanted to understand the logic:
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?p=121840

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 10:47 pm 
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Caaarlo wrote:
Did I sound rude ??


Not at all. Did I look serious? :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 7:00 pm 
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Remember the intake solenoids ?

Image


Well, I used the gray solenoid for controlling boost, using the PWM PD boost controller found in the MS Extra firmware.

This is a 1st to 4th pass, with partial throttle launch. Notice the boost overshoot, it should stay at 200 KPA = 14,5 psi... so I need to play with the PD controller for some more time, until I get a better boost plot.
I think I also need a larger IC, because intake temps go from 40 deg C to 68 deg C after a WOT pass at 14.5 psi.

Yellow = RPM
Cyan = Manifold Pressure in KPa
White = Injector opening time in ms
Green = Intake air temperature in deg C.



Image

I have to take a closer look to the logs, because I heard some pinging for the first time, I think I have to tune the acceleration enrichment settings, because it doesn't ping during WOT, but during the transition from partial throttle to WOT at 5000 RPM under some boost.

I will be posting the Gtech measurements soon.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 6:52 pm 
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Caaarlo wrote:
I have to take a closer look to the logs, because I heard some pinging for the first time, I think I have to tune the acceleration enrichment settings, because it doesn't ping during WOT, but during the transition from partial throttle to WOT at 5000 RPM under some boost.


Caaarlo, I don't think the throttle pumps will cause the motor to ping. You should look at the ignition curve. The general rule of thumb is 6degs inc for each 1000rpm until full ignition is reached. To fast and high a rate will general induce highload pinging.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 4:08 pm 
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About the boost controller. Is it PI or PID? With Pi you always get an overshoot and it will be slow be course you cannot increase the P value, as you would like.

PID work better. From what I have seen in your log you have to get the D down as match as you can to get a faster and more unstable regulator with makes a flatter boost curve.
Sounds funny that a more unstable regulator makes a better boost curve but is you have a look @ the PMW you will notice this, can the MS give you a PMW reading of the boost controller?

About the nock after opening the throttle on boost. Yep ignition a bit on the advanced site
I think it will be there be course you are going from hi vacuum to boost giving a massive fill to the cylinders. Enriching fuel will not help.
I’m thinking of making a function in the ECU of retard during throttle opening in boost.
On normal WOT operation it will not be there and my ignition map is pretty good having to advance only 3 degrees on the new engine setup today.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 11:15 pm 
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rvengineering wrote:
About the boost controller. Is it PI or PID?


Ok, I have just arrived from a business trip, and therefore, had no time to play with the car. THe controller is a PD type, and AFAIK, I should decrease the proportional component, and increase the derivative component to decrease the overshoot. (according to Dr. Benjamin Kuo :lol: )

This weekend, I will try some other values and a different control loop topology. Will keep you updated.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 4:07 pm 
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MMMMMMMMM according to my book PD or proportional deferential dos not exist unless the I (integral) value is a fixed one or it must be a MS thing.
Good luck and make sure to set the boost cutout if the thing goes a wall. :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 7:19 pm 
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rvengineering wrote:
MMMMMMMMM according to my book PD or proportional deferential dos not exist unless the I (integral) value is a fixed one or it must be a MS thing.
Good luck and make sure to set the boost cutout if the thing goes a wall. :wink:


Well, yes, you can have P, PI, PID, PD... It's been... like... 13 years since I studied all the analog control theory, and I can't recall 100%, but I think the PD controller is good for systems that have an inherent overdamped response. Yes, PID is better, but the MS only has PD.

In this case, after introducing the controller, the output response became under damped, because it shows overshoot (wasn't there before). It means I have to dampen the output, by increasing the derivative component, and probably decreasing the proportional gain... or... shifting the system poles further along the minus Real axis (poles real +/- jw)

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 6:47 am 
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Getting the overshoot out will be close to impossible but you can giving the boostcontroller a slower response results in most cases in oscillation of the pressure.
The best shortcut to get the overshoot out will be a max PMW setting like we us and many other ECU systems that can handle a very aggressive boost response from the turbo.

PID boostcontroller Adaptronic ECU.
Image

boostcontroller KMS ECU. Bit to complicated if you ask me.
Image

PID boostcontroller with no max PMW setting. boost spike in the last curve :wink:
Image

PID boost controller with max PMW setting.
Image

MS is open base so can you not write a code for the boostcontroller and also implement the PMW output in to the log function so you can have a look what the regulator dos :?: :?: :roll:

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 6:06 pm 
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Miscellanious comments from missing out on your thread Carlos

-------

Ah yes... all to familiar with inconvenient filter locations. I don't need the bumper off, but mine still isn't a 1-2-3 anymore.

-----------

You should turn it back to 4-6psi and see tell us if it is still amazing or if you have gotten used to it already. :)

--------------

What was your coolant in the reservoir problem?

Bad rad caps can leak under load exhibiting symptoms similar to busted head gasket.

---------

Turbos spinning slowly at idle and wanting airflow over the MAF is perhaps one reason that having the MAF/stock ECU sucks. More so when it's -15C and the engine itself doesnt want to spin.

--------

You're work with the Megasquirt is great! It's fantastic to see somebody spending soo much time playing with the options and the code. Excellent work!

Timing from 4500-7500rpm isn't a big problem with the stock ECU with some adjustments. I could go in with Mighty Map at Regs and alter the timing up high and not gain any more peak horsepower. The benefits of the ECU are likely coming from a few different areas including getting rid of restrictions.

Now only if my Swift had more of a purpose, I could keep it and play around with this kind of stuff.

--------

Where is TGString when you need him? There just aren't enough people giving you a hard time over the Gtech. :)

---------

Your comments regarding feel of hte car, driveability, comfort, etc. are soo spot on.

----------

Does MS have timing control for throttle tip-in?


--------

AAGGGGHHHHHH (or something along those lines).... bad turbo Swift guys killing the PCV system.

Enhance it, don't kill it. Properly designed it will increase ring seal, free up some hp, etc.

---------

rveng-

Idealized Otto cycle does have adiabatic expansion/compression process already however I don't think that is exactly what you were trying to say.

More fuel for a slower burning mixture?

It seems like the reduction in base timing was a bad thing to you?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 5:48 am 
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rveng-

Idealized Otto cycle does have adiabatic expansion/compression process already however I don't think that is exactly what you were trying to say.

More fuel for a slower burning mixture?

It seems like the reduction in base timing was a bad thing to you?

---------[/quote]

Well you can try to get adiabatic combustion and it can be done with direct injection with FSI and GDI engines. We try the same with over fuelling the engine a bit and this works to some extend how ever we went back to 12:1 AFR with the new 9.2:1Cr engine and the torque is as flat as before.

The main thing for making power is the ignition table with has a window of about 3 degrees for optimal performance.
Getting the timing as close to detonation is not the way to go for. I get many questions about it what is optimal. Well the dyno will be the best way to find out.
Retarding a bit more and looking @ EGT to keep it as low as possible means that our running optimal most of the time.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 12:53 pm 
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rvengineering wrote:

Well you can try to get adiabatic combustion and it can be done with direct injection with FSI and GDI engines. We try the same with over fuelling the engine a bit and this works to some extend how ever we went back to 12:1 AFR with the new 9.2:1Cr engine and the torque is as flat as before.

The main thing for making power is the ignition table with has a window of about 3 degrees for optimal performance.
Getting the timing as close to detonation is not the way to go for. I get many questions about it what is optimal. Well the dyno will be the best way to find out.
Retarding a bit more and looking @ EGT to keep it as low as possible means that our running optimal most of the time.

----------
Still under investigation are Crown type pistons as we call them that look like the G16B piston tops and some aftermarket pistons.
I suspect that with this type of piston the head clearance between the piston and the cil head is to small coursing detonation on the inlet valve side.
That could be the rezone that so many have the need to O ring there engines.
Also this type of piston is providing more turbulence and there for in most cases a faster travelling flame front. In other word one big bang and more peak pressure.
What you really want is an adiabatic pressure build-up more or les like a diesel engine in other word a lower burning rate of the mixture.
Adding more fuel will also give a slower burning rate. Same effect.
What I do know is that I need a 5 degree retard on a Crown piston compared to a flat head G13B piston to get the same power output indicating that there is a faster burning rate.

I know that this text will give response and even some bull piep.
I’m sorry it is too expensive to install a sparkplug with a pressure indicator for me to let you see the difference.



Current engine technology seems to be moving away from some of those thoughts. Take it for what it is, if I perhaps missed where you were coming from, let me know. My understanding of combustion chamber design (from various readings)

Rich mixtures burn faster. Excessively rich mixtures burn slower.

In order to reduce the tendency of an engine to detonate, combustion chamber designers strive to decrease the distance the flame has to travel or increase the speed of the flame.

You pointed out the offset chamber on the head already. The intake side is furthest from where the flame begins therefore it will be the last place to ignite. There will be more time to compress and heat the end mixture before the flame reaches it… therefore more time to have a second ignition point - detonation. Pre-ignition is considered a different phenomen.

As rpms increase, turbulence increases, the burning rate increases, and the tendency to detonate decreases. Most likely place to detonate is usually considered around peak VE mid rpms. At high rpm there is less time available yet it takes more crank movement to initiate flame. At lower engine speeds, the flame isn’t moving as fast and still has to travel to the other side of the chamber and ignite the end mixture before the heat ignites it. Question – do you really want to slow burning down like a diesel? Diesel engine design rev 4500rpm, Swift engine 7500rpm. Is it really fair to compare and say that one should strive to be like the other when the two philosophies between the engine are quite different when you get into it. Inject fuel, compress, spark vs. Compress, inject fuel, auto ignite. Different limitations, configurations, etc.

Lean burn chambers do have a bigger bang that isn’t as long in terms of crank degrees as old chamber design. What part of the cycle is your bang most effective? Do you want to drag out the combustion event or is it possible to focus it where it is most effective?

The fact that you were able to run 5 degrees less advance and make the same power seems to tell me that your combustion event was more efficient. I’ve seen lean-burn design theories applied to performance engines that would run significantly less timing than that to make the same power.

Close clearance, quench area, squish on the intake side should be a beneficial thing. Did the Vitara pistons cause a head gasket failure for you, or fail during use?

You can see that this quickly becomes a philosophy on engine design. Cam overlap, piston speeds, etc.. You either strive to apply one method or the other. You obviously have to compromise to make power at certain points, but I think the days of making power and having to run stoich at idle/part-throttle are going the way of the dinosaur.


Separately -



‘Tune until you hear detonation’. Different applications, different results. From my dyno experience, a lot of high pressure FI vehicles may run fairly close to that rule of thumb if you add ‘and turn it back a couple of degrees from there’. However, put a naturally aspirated 92 Escort GT on the dyno – crank the timing several degrees and it manages to gain 6-8hp. Crank the timing some more and it doesn’t audibly detonate, but it starts to lose power. More, just loses a little more power. And on it goes.

For a turbo Swift with stock compression, if you add the “ and turn it back a few degrees from there” it isn’t that far off in WOT from 4000rpm+. The problem is that it does tend to be generalized and people apply it to everything and all rpms. Tune on the dyno like you say is certainly the best approach in general, and especially on applications that you are not familiar with.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 3:18 pm 
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Well have a look at this and notice how flat the torque curve is on this engine.
I must say the turbo also helps making this possible. But that’s engineering to accomplice that.

NOTE! The RPM of the AFR is running 300 RPM behind be course we measured in the tale pipe.
Image

Lean or over fueling. Well if you know what you are doing and were to tune the correct AFR you will get good performance and reliability.
I have worked with big bore natural gas engines doing 418Hp @ 1500 RPM per cylinder having all types of problem with controlling the flame front.
The G13B is a very small engine that can make loads of torque. However some pistons are not making the flame front with is best for making torque and increasing the risk of detonation. About the Crown type pistons I had some feedback from new college. His commend was why would you put in pistons where the flame front mainly travel towards the cylinder head leaving the mixture on the outside of the piston unburned making it possible to self combust. ???????????I don’t think it will be that bad but he got a point.

It’s all about understanding what going on inside your engine and analyzing data and making progress. Some get paid to make progress and some follow some rule of thumb and get lucky or maybe not.
Do not think is just one line from A to Z and get loads of power, however a turbo’ed G13B GTI with a stock manifold will sort out his own AFR over RPM without big bumps in the fuel/ignition map.
The G13B turbo is a very ease engine to tune compares to a G13B wit a TB kit on it having to compensate for turbulence behind the throttle valve and therefore needs a MAPxTPS tuning method making absolutely a mess from the fuel correction map with is based on TPS.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 7:11 pm 
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What is the rpm band that we are looking at with that dyno? Looks like a small turbo running decent boost but I dont really know any details of your setup.

Here is an old Swift at 10.4@134mph with those Vitara 'crown' pistons

http://www.angelfire.com/de/ksj/swiftart.html (sorry it's in spanish. It was translated at some point years ago by someone)

And another motor I used to work on. Stock crown type pistons, pentroof combustion chamber. Turbo technology, dyno, etc. about 9 years old there. Newer power curves from this car look much better.

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/parts/reg_engine/


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2007 5:19 am 
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The power curve above starts @ 2000Rpm and ends @ 8000 RPM.

About the engine: the engine is stock except for the camshaft (Cultus) and 9.2:1CR pistons and 440cc injectors. The cylinder head is not ported.
The goal of this project in not top end power but making a torque line that is as flat as possible from 2000 RPM up to the red line with almost stock engine.

This dyno printout is from the total stock engine including cams injectors pistons en muffler explaining the torque drop over RPM due to the fact that the smallest diameter of the exhaust was 38mm. Notice that the torque @ 2500RPM is 180Nm @ the wheels. This is what I mean with adiabatic combustion @ low RPM. This engine performs like a diesel engine @ low RPM still making power in mid and hi RPM. If we had known that there was a 38mm restrictor in the end muffler and remove that we think we made about 170Hp on the wheels al do the injectors can not handle that. (dyno run is taken in 4e gear)

Image

Really there is nothing new to what I do. All you need is a good ECU system and getting to right numbers in and a turbo that soot’s the Hp range well and has a decent efficiency.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2007 7:00 pm 
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I probably should have addressed some of the other items in the last email.

Quote:
Lean or over fueling. Well if you know what you are doing and were to tune the correct AFR you will get good performance and reliability.


Hence participating in successful racing programs with cars that have to drive themselves from track to track, not be towed http://suprasonic.org/onelap2000/


Quote:
I had some feedback from new college. His commend was why would you put in pistons where the flame front mainly travel towards the cylinder head leaving the mixture on the outside of the piston unburned making it possible to self combust. ???????????I don’t think it will be that bad but he got a point.



I can understand your colleagues point. It is possible for that to be partially true. The concave could be slightly more prone to detonation at the same compression ratio. However, running lower compression, and running 10s on an OEM Vitara piston in an econobox could be a certain amount of proof that perhaps it is not that bad.

I really wouldn’t be too concerned that in the area of highest velocity (with the most quench area, closest to the head) on the inlet side of piston that it has less carbon build up… unless you have actually blown the pistons up, and screwed your head gasket (gaskets as it were).

Really, I am wondering why your goal is to slow combustion speed and an a scientific explanation for flat top pistons other than a Swift with a small turbo on it. I’ve even read technical articles comparing flat top, convex, concave, and wedge type pistons in one cylinder and 4 cylinder engines. The convex, and concave required a lower BSFC, amongst other benefits.


Quote:
It’s all about understanding what going on inside your engine and analyzing data and making progress. Some get paid to make progress and some follow some rule of thumb and get lucky or maybe not.


So you can avoid making comments like this. I have done thousands of dyno runs and have gotten paid to do this work. I’ve also gone to school for a few items other than 'vroom'. I’ve dynoed BMWs, Supras, Lamborghinis, Porsches, Toyotas, Suzukis, Hondas, Nissans, Fords (including a ton of supercharged mustangs), etc. with a variety of different projects. When I say that the rule of thumb can work on a variety of turbo cars under certain conditions, it is not luck. In this case, it is experience with cars on the dyno adjusting timing one way or the other.


Quote:
Really there is nothing new to what I do. All you need is a good ECU system and getting to right numbers in and a turbo that soot’s the Hp range well and has a decent efficiency.



Expect to be questioned, especially when your forum name is 'engineering' and you post dyno graphs without units or engine speed or vehicle speed. If your dyno was somehow unachievable with 210 ft.lbs of torque on 10psi and a basically stock engine, I would be looking for other answers on my end.

As it is, most of the people here probably don’t understand Newton meters and don’t necessarily understand the differences in dyno graphs. Your cross over point would have been at 5252rpm if your previous dyno not showing units or speed had actually been in hp and ft.lbs. Instead it is in a less common Newton meters and hp. In order to verify that there is no longer bull pie here, I did a quick calc to come up with the mechanical necessity of around 7121rpms for your crossover point with these new units. Going and checking speed to rpm in a quick spreadsheet tells me that you have to be running around 4.39 gears with tires slightly under stock diameter (I think there was a 195/40 on one of your pics on your site) and that the dyno would indeed go from 2000-8000rpms.

It also now tells me for sure that you are choked for flow, where your powerband is being made, and how I can compare it to old dynos here. I won’t say that I’ve been that productive at work for the past hour or so, but I have fixed the rpm problem and converted some numbers from an old dyno run to overlay onto your dyno for comparison

The dyno is from 4 years ago of a 1.3 Swift running 7-9psi, a log style manifold (entire project including building the manifold was done in a weekend), another undersized turbo, completely stock engine, stock ECU, an educated guess at distributor position (no timing light and no time spent on it), and an overly rich mixture that we didn't tune out with boost or piggy-back (o2 sensor was connected and muddling with changes anyway, and I gave him a few quick dyno runs). 30 more minutes spent tuning the piggy-back without the o2 connected, and more boost, and it would have made for a much more interesting conversation. Kev always begged me to go back to the dyno. Ah well, can't go back in time. I just need to find the chord for my camera to upload the image and I’ll post that up.

As a side note, I noticed the other picture on page 3 of your cylinder head. Your exhaust valves look like mine did after a few years of higher boost on a stock head. That being – relatively cooked. Porting and less backpressure can be a good thing for longevity.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2007 4:53 am 
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Whattheeee this is caaarlo’s topic and please cool down a bit. This is not about you and me. I peak in general here about people that tune cars not every day.
And if you think or find that there is a rule of thumb that OK by me if it’s working for you.
If I think it’s not so please let me. Most engines I do are way over 1000Hp and this car stuff is just child play to me. I can write a whole story about what I have done and were I have been and doing but it’s not about that.
If you want you can have a look at the ECU mapping on http://www.adaptronic.com.au/field.php and give your opinion about it or even better try to reproduce and improve. Same boost lower EGT en les fuel consumption and so on. We only did a road tune and 30 minutes on the dyno making about 5 runs.

Funny. You got the calculation wrong we run a 15” 195. 50 wheel and a 4.105 final drive. Also there will be some wheel spin involved as well al do it’s very small and the clutch is not holding the power on the last dyno printout. That’s why the toque line is very bumpy..
Next time we will make sure there is a RPM or speed in the curve. And also it’s a common thing here in Europe to use Hp and Nm together. Most of the time I work in Kw as well but this dyno dos not have that.

In a couple of weeks we will know what a G16B piston can do with an IHI turbo on sebaszz his car. According to turbine tech this turbo must be able to produce power from low RPM on wards.
I’m not expecting that mach efficiency on low RPM with a CR of somewhere between 7.2:1 and almost 8:1CR with the G16B pistons but I will try to get all out.

The picture you have seen were from a other car, we run more than one car. It is a very old picture and it was from an engine that has been running with the stock ECU with stock injectors @ about 160Hp or so. And bay the way the valves are cooked with coolant that’s why they look brown gray be course of the burn residue of this type of coolant. So looks can be deceiving. Ok this is something you cannot know if you never worked on engines with leaking after coolers.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2007 2:25 pm 
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rvengineering wrote:
Whattheeee this is caaarlo’s topic and please cool down a bit. This is not about you and me. I peak in general here about people that tune cars not every day.
And if you think or find that there is a rule of thumb that OK by me if it’s working for you.
If I think it’s not so please let me. Most engines I do are way over 1000Hp and this car stuff is just child play to me. I can write a whole story about what I have done and were I have been and doing but it’s not about that.
If you want you can have a look at the ECU mapping on http://www.adaptronic.com.au/field.php and give your opinion about it or even better try to reproduce and improve. Same boost lower EGT en les fuel consumption and so on. We only did a road tune and 30 minutes on the dyno making about 5 runs.

Funny. You got the calculation wrong we run a 15” 195. 50 wheel and a 4.105 final drive. Also there will be some wheel spin involved as well al do it’s very small.
Next time we will make sure there is a RPM or speed in the curve. And also it’s a common thing here in Europe to use Hp and Nm together. Most of the time I work in Kw as well but this dyno dos not have that.

In a couple of weeks we will know what a G16B piston can do with an IHI turbo on sebaszz his car. According to turbine tech this turbo must be able to produce power from low RPM on wards.
I’m not expecting that mach efficiency on low RPM with a CR of somewhere between 7.2:1 and almost 8:1CR with the G16B pistons but I will try to get all out.

The picture you have seen were from a other car, we run more than one car. It is a very old picture and it was from an engine that has been running with the stock ECU with stock injectors @ about 160Hp or so. And bay the way the valves are cooked with coolant that’s why they look brown gray be course of the burn residue of this type of coolant. So looks can be deceiving. Ok this is something you cannot know if you never worked in engines with leaking after coolers.


If I had the spreadsheet here, I would expect the calculations are still right, only the rolling diameter of the tire would be an inch or so off (used some value for diameter from the net). Regardless, it won't dramatically change where I figure your rpm points are based on 7121rpm crossover point and 4th gear ratios. I won't bother with the extremely similar torque curve of a Swift I did with a somewhat inefficient setup, and I did not want to offend you. Posting a dyno of a Swift with a smallish turbo did not really help explain where you were coming from from a combustion chamber design standpoint. The other comments that you made about 'knowing what you are doing to get power, not straight line, etc. etc.', also confused me as they didn't seem relevant to the topic at hand. I wouldn't expect the timing maps for the Suzuki to be unlike anything I've seen, and the power curves are fine, so I probably won't look into them. If I had more time, I'd be trying out more in the garage. I will try to look for the topic showing the other setup once it is done. I will have to take your word on the valves, as I can't do any forensic engineering on it from here. Oh, other post should say mathematical neccessity, not mechanical.

At any rate, Caarlo, I was finally able to check out your videos and the way that your car is pulling in 3rd and 4th on mild boost is very impressive. You should have zero problems getting 13s on street tires with some careful driving. Do you have means to alter boost based on rpm and speed with MS?

I would still consider ideas on how to reconnect your pcv system and have it work more effectively.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 31, 2007 5:32 pm 
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whattheeee wrote:
At any rate, Caarlo, I was finally able to check out your videos and the way that your car is pulling in 3rd and 4th on mild boost is very impressive. You should have zero problems getting 13s on street tires with some careful driving. Do you have means to alter boost based on rpm and speed with MS?

I would still consider ideas on how to reconnect your pcv system and have it work more effectively.


The PCV was put back some months ago, along with an oil catch can. Under normal driving, with occasional WOT condition, the can stays empty. But, after a couple of 1/4 passes, it can get some oil, like 200cc. I tend to think this is due to cam journal clearance being out of spec, filling the valve cover with oil at high RPM and WOT where there is a combination of high oil pressure (high oil flow too) and some blow-by... keeping the excessive amount of oil from falling back to the crank.

Regarding 3rd and 4th... what can I tell you... it has a 3.58 final drive, should be even quicker with the stock 4.11 FD. I have reached 248 km/h measured by GPS, no tail wind, leveled road, and I had to slow down just in case, because I don't have an oil cooler. That was on 9psi, imagine what can it do with 15 psi. I just need better tires, because my current ones, have 7 years old :shock: . I am sure I will be able to drop some tenths with just a fresh set of tires.

So far, the MS can't control boost by ground speed, only RPM, TPS and a switch for selecting between 2 boost maps. It would be cool to have speed controlling boost. Maybe I should introduce a new mod to the code :D

Regarding the water problem, yes, I sometimes get water in my plastic reservoir after a prolonged WOT condition, and then, after normal driving, water goes back to the rad. The problem seems to come from the turbo cooling, there is not enough water flow to keep the CHRA below boiling temp under WOT, and it generates steam, which displaces some water to the reservoir. I need to address this problem by increasing water flow to the turbo.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 11:09 pm 
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Location: San Juan, Argentina
Last night, 13.9 @ 107.5

14.5 psi boost
wheelspin up to 3rd gear (even 2nd gear reads more acceleration than 1st)
Ignition problems in 3rd-4th (I gotta solve this)
Open road, no sticky track
Tires: my old Yokohamas A520 195/45/15

What can I say... I am very happy :lol:

Image

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2007 5:57 pm 
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Congrats mate thats awesome. 8)

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 9:28 pm 
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Hats off to u Carrlo...
I have followed your project from start, I also have a similar set up: Td04 Turbo, rebuilt engine with G16b Pistons. I have the Stock ECU with no piggy back and I'm running about 8psi on the stock timing with a stock clutch. Strangley there is no detonation or pinging or any type of slippage from the clutch (as yet) the car is not even leaning out on normal pump gas Ron95 I believe. I know this is going to provoke alot of Flack from the senior guys. I am gonna install a larger fuel pump frrom a Nissan CA18, some type of injectors, a piggy back and an oil cooler soon (Rome wasn't built in a day!) My question is: How is the off boost response from the engine? I ask this because my takeoff is really slow in comparison to when the engine was NA, but at about 2500 - 3000 revs the boost kicks in and as we say in Trini "All Hell Breaks Loose!!" :lol: :twisted: Is there anything that I can do to alleviate this slow take off (out side of a piggy back)? Or will I have to reside to that till I install management?

Anyways...
Great Job on your car....
Keep up the great work!

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