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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2002 2:19 am 
Hey, i was at work tonight and was talking with a co-worker about cars and that sort of stuff. We got into this "discussion" about a civic and Swift. Then it lead to turboing and all that. <br><br>So now i have new motivation to get going again. My big question is what to use for header tubing? I was going to use cast iron "L"'s for all my bends because i was told exhaust tube isn't strong enough to support the weight of a turbo? If it is though i was thinking of picking it up from JC Whitney for really cheap. <!--EZCODE AUTOLINK START--><a href="http://www.jcwhitney.com/SearchCatContainer.jhtml;$sessionid$JRGH2OIAABK4PWBBLJTSFFGYEFNGMIV0?_requestid=174264">www.jcwhitney.com/SearchC...tid=174264</a><!--EZCODE AUTOLINK END--><br><br>Anyone have any ideas? Also where is going to be the best place to tap in for an oil pressure line.<br> <p><a href="http://members.home.net/imstaying">My GTi Page<BR><BR><BR><a href="http://members.home.net/imstaying"><img src="http://members.home.net/imstaying/images/my_gif.gif"></a></img></p><i></i>


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2002 7:05 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2001 8:13 pm
Posts: 222
Location: Northern New Jersey
Anyone using a watercooled turbo? If so where do you tap the in and out water lines? <p></p><i></i>


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2002 12:43 pm 
Roger I had a turbo sprint mkII and it got it's oil from right beside oil pressure sender . If you look to the left of the sender you will see a threaded plug,remove this and you will have oil for the turbo. Makes sense to tap into the same place the factory did.<br><br>George the same turbo sprint also have water cooled turbo's , I can't remember the routing of the water lines but other guys on this board have turbo sprint's and they should be able to help.<br><br>Lars <p></p><i></i>


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2002 11:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2001 11:55 am
Posts: 2595
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Hey Roger, exhuast tubing can be used although it isn't 'ideal'. Generally you want to keep all the heat and thus velocity you can in the system to spool the turbo, especially on a small motor like ours (if that doesn't make sense, think of how much heat would be lost with aluminum piping). The thick-walled weld-els are a good choice for strength and keeping hte heat in. I'll be suffering from a poor design with the log set-up (not what I recommend if you are out to do it right), but if I can avoid any major hot spots the manifold should last a while and spool up the turbo just fine.<br><br> Will the exhaust tubing support the turbo? It likely won't have the ability to hold the turbo weight and you should have the turbo supported and attached to something else like the block. Also look to drill out the bolt holes out a bit (don't look for a perfect fit) on the flange going to the head as if they are too tight they are liable to snap off the bolts on your head on the first warm-up cycle due to thermal expansion. <br><br> I actually have 4-1.5" steel 180 U-Bend exhaust piping type stuff in my garage that I'm starting to think I won't be using at all as I'm going to try to make the second manifold out of weld-els again. I forget what I paid, something like $18 each. I had to pay a bit of extra shipping and stuff as tehy had to be special ordered. Looking from the site $10+USD for the u-bends + shipping + exchange would be about the same to a bit cheaper. If you know what you are going to do, I could part with them for something liek $40-$50 and you pay shipping... could save you some cash. The u-bends are good because you can cut hte angle to what you want.<br><br>----<br>also for George, on the turbo sprint (perhaps not wise words again) , one colant line comes for teh thermostat housing while the other comes from that the main pipe coming from the water pump. My turbo is water-cooled, and I had some ideas, although it shouldn't be too hard to tap into. <p><br><a href="http://www.teamswift.net"><img src="http://members.home.net/2832075173/pics/Swiftafter1c.jpg"></a></img><br>Kyle Jones <b>1989 Suzuki Swift GTi</b><br>Your friendly TeamSwift Op.</p><i></i>


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2002 2:38 am 
Thanx for the info. I think i might go with the cast "L"s for the heat retention reason. That is what i was thinking of. I am still thinking about getting the pipe from JC Whitney but getting a 3 inch inner diameter so i can use that for the piping from the turbo to Intercooler to intake. I am going to pic stuff up this weekend. I wanted to get the underdriven pullies but i think in the long run the turbo will produce more HP <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br><br>Here is actually a REALLY helpful site i found for turbo projects<br><!--EZCODE AUTOLINK START--><a href="http://sdsefi.com/techheader.htm">sdsefi.com/techheader.htm</a><!--EZCODE AUTOLINK END--><br><br>And also if anyone knows anybody with a chiltons manual for a Dodge Dayton, i could use some pics of the turbo so i can figure out which lines go where and which is oil in and oil out. They both sit at roughly the same level so i can't make an educated guess(not that i want to anyways)<br> <p><a href="http://members.home.net/imstaying">My GTi Page<BR><BR><BR><a href="http://members.home.net/imstaying"><img src="http://members.home.net/imstaying/images/my_gif.gif"></a></img></p><i></i>


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 Post subject: Manual
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2002 4:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 10, 2001 5:07 pm
Posts: 553
Location: Ontario, Canada
I think that my Cousins dad might have one for his Shelby Daytona, all ask him about it .<br><br>Ryan <p></p><i></i>


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2002 6:11 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2001 11:55 am
Posts: 2595
Location: Calgary, Alberta
That SDS place is a really good site, I even remember coming accross it a while back. <br><br>Some additional thoughts... the weld-els size should also be kept to a minumum to keep velocities up. The ones I'm using I think are actually 1", although that's not really their internal diameter and they pretty much match up to the holes on the head of the swift. Going larger shouldn't be neccessary, as the rule is to keep the size down if you have a choice. And as for the intake, I'd say 3" is definetely too big. Low rpm throttle respons could end up really poor if you go that route. I'll be using 2" and if you have a lot of piping I certainly wouldn't recommend any larger. Perhaps 2 1/4 or something if there is very little piping, but 2" should definetely flow well enough. Even on the DSMs with 200hp and a 2.0L motor the stock inlet/outlet pipes on the intercooler are under 2" so you can probably see it's not neccessary on a 1.3L with no flow down low.<br><br>If you are going to start and have any more questions, let me know. If you still have my email I could give you my phone # or something if it helps and you need a quick additional thought.<br><br>and that manual... You could even check the Dodge Daytona turbo crowd....join their huge mailing list and ask. There are huge masses of those guys spread around, and if they are anything like hte Calgary guys, they would happily help other people out. <br><br> <p><br><a href="http://www.teamswift.net"><img src="http://members.home.net/2832075173/pics/Swiftafter1c.jpg"></a></img><br>Kyle Jones <b>1989 Suzuki Swift GTi</b><br>Your friendly TeamSwift Op.</p><i></i>


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2002 6:26 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2001 11:03 pm
Posts: 214
Location: Calgary, Alberta. Canada
Hey Kye I see we're padding your posts again <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br> <p></p><i></i>


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2002 3:42 pm 
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Senior Swift Guru

Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2001 11:55 am
Posts: 2595
Location: Calgary, Alberta
ew what the heck... one of those times the internet connection was 'sticky' I suppose. That's ok, just deleted em all, so now no one will ever know.<br> <p><br><a href="http://www.teamswift.net"><img src="http://members.home.net/2832075173/pics/Swiftafter1c.jpg"></a></img><br>Kyle Jones <b>1989 Suzuki Swift GTi</b><br>Your friendly TeamSwift Op.</p><i></i>


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2002 6:22 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2001 11:03 pm
Posts: 214
Location: Calgary, Alberta. Canada
I know and i won't let you forget *PADDER* <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :hat --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/pimp.gif ALT=":hat"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <p></p><i></i>


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2002 9:37 pm 
hey kyle. Thanx for the info. After checking back on my original plans, i found that i had decided to go with 2 1/4 for that reason. I wrote everything down a while ago and was just guessing as i typed. I have checked with a few large daytona sites and i keep getting the same answer "if you don't know that then you shouldn't be putting it on" I have actually found most of them to be cery rude. I will keep checking though and if anyone has a Blow Off Valve that they are interested in selling, i would be very interested in buying it.<br>Thanx <p><a href="http://members.home.net/imstaying">My GTi Page<BR><BR><BR><a href="http://members.home.net/imstaying"><img src="http://members.home.net/imstaying/images/my_gif.gif"></a></img></p><i></i>


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