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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 10:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 12, 2006 5:44 am
Posts: 246
Ok guys, so the day has come, I am going to start writing about my project. I will not finish today because I have too much to write but going to start now because if I dont do it I will never do it. lol

The initial car was driven only on nitrous, started with a 40shot and finished blowing up head gasket and chipped part of the head with a 140hp nitrous shot (1.4mm nitrous jet 0.8mm fuel jet) w/ a progressive controller. The car ALWAYS had traction problems, I would start my controller only in 2nd gear and the revs would climb straight to 8000rpm (where I programmed nitrous cut in the controller) and stay there losing traction. I have gone 1/8th @ 82mph with partial of 9.601s while the Dodge I raced ran 0,6 (9,0s) faster with less mph (80mph), considering I only use nitrous in 2nd gear you get the idea... Anyway, I couldnt finish my 1/4 mile because when I put 4th gear in there was too much engine timing (stock ignition) and blew the head gasket/chipped part of the head. This run was 15.2 because it blew off in the middle of the pass. I had run before a 14.5s @ 101mph with a 100shot using nitrous only in 3rd gear because of traction loss... that is my best E.T. so far, I couldnt get many runs but I believe with decent traction I could get into the 13's easily. It has dynoed at 156whp and weight in about 1800lbs (fully gutted, no a/c, no p/s)
Dyno Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pdgdrEUGDY

Here's some pics:

This is the car rear:
Image

Front:
Image

Here's the damage on the head:
Image

Here's how 2 of the plugs looked like after:
Image

Head Gasket:
Image


The initial idea after this was to build the car with Vitara pistons and stock rods. I already bought the Vitara pistons, which according to friend Sebastian in Argentina there are 2 models, one for 7.8 CR and one for 7.2 CR on stock head. My head is stock and I bought pistons off ebay found out they are the 7.2 CR model... so yes, very low compression. I dont plan on changing that, I have programable nitrous control to help off any low rpm lack of torque/fast spool.

I have already bought some stuff:
- Metal Head Gasket
- Vitara Pistons 75mm bore, NPR Rings n Pins
- Turbine Tech Equal Length Manifold
- Standard Rebuild parts (rod bearings, main bearings, gaskets, etc etc)


Here's me looking like a fool with some of the parts
Image

Here's the manifold pic Jess sent me
Image

Missing right now:
- Machining and rebuilding block/crank
- Turbo (decided to go with a Mitsubishi 14b from a DSM)
- Intercooler
- Injectors (Think im going with DSM 450cc injectors)
- Fueltech Standalone Controller

What about the gearbox? What can be done to improve reliability? Any business/vendor I can contact may help me with this?

Any help on my journey would be welcome.


Last edited by Ricardo on Sun Jan 11, 2009 11:42 am, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:27 pm 
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Location: Atlanta,GA Havana,Cuba
Try carillo rods & also what are you going to do about the weakass econo-Box of a transmission we have you know it's made of glass?



http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/featu ... index.html

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:49 pm 
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Location: Abbotsford, BC
hey where's your location ricardo

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2000 Firefly 1.3 SOHC 16VALVE AUTO. Goals: full restoration, achieve stock MPG and HP or higher, finished look should be 'stealthy' and unassuming. Engine will need to be rebuilt later on to restore compression levels.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 7:33 pm 
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mijerseyswift wrote:
Try carillo rods & also what are you going to do about the weakass econo-Box of a transmission we have you know it's made of glass?



http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/featu ... index.html



Yea I know, I am not sure yet, I'm going to wait until it breaks I guess and go from there. Anyone has a good contact for a racing gearbox? I was thinking asking Sebastian for where he got stronger gears for the box. Either way, I'm more concerned about building the motor and get the car running right now.

Do you know any vendors that carry Carillo rods?

My goal is run consistent 12sec. Despite racing look, car will be fully streetable.


Last edited by Ricardo on Tue Dec 09, 2008 7:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 7:35 pm 
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1995Firefly4dr wrote:
hey where's your location ricardo


South Brazil


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 12:22 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 11, 2003 10:29 pm
Posts: 711
Location: Sherbrooke, Québec
You can get forged rods from http://www.suzukird.com. Good prices and good to deal with.

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Last edited by kram on Wed Dec 10, 2008 10:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 1:06 pm 
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Sad but True...

Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 8:20 pm
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Location: Saskatchewan
think you were missing an ecu on the list of missing parts :p

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 8:26 am 
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kram wrote:
You can get forged rods from http://www.suzukird.com. Good prices and good to deal with.


I worked with them before, going to email them asking what brand are they rods. I heard from a friend I can get custom rods from Crower at around 600 USD, need to check that too.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 8:27 am 
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swift13b wrote:
think you were missing an ecu on the list of missing parts :p


These are engine only parts. The car will have standalone Fueltech controller. It is made here in Brazil and been very well race proven. http://www.fueltech.com.br


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 12:21 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 04, 2008 11:43 pm
Posts: 31
Location: USA
Nice looking car and build you have going.

Many people do use the Vitara cast piston in the D Series honda motors as a cheap alternative to going forged. They do have a good history of being able to work, the highest hp setup now with them is in the low 400s with H beam rods. They also make the c/r in the low 7s in a Honda as well.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 5:54 pm 
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Change in project, going to use stock rods and a 14b mitsubishi turbo from a DSM. 450cc DSM injectors as well. This is because I'm buying an AWD DSM for drag. The Swift will be for daily driving with a bit of boost.

Right now I am dissassembling the motor. Got a rod cap stuck in the crankshaft, this is from the block which was damaged by lack of lubrication (ovalized cylinders) trying to take it out to have it machined and put the Vitara pistons in.

I'll keep you guys updated.


Attachments:
File comment: rod bearing cap stuck in crank
IMG_0248.jpg
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File comment: apartment mechanic
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 11:46 am 
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It's been fully disassembled, going to take it to machine shop thursday to bore up to 75" and check on the rods/crankshaft. I might nitrate the crank as advised.

Image


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 3:02 pm 
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Location: Saint-Jérôme, Qc
:shock: are you doing that in your living room? :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 9:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 19, 2003 12:33 am
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Location: Atlanta,GA Havana,Cuba
Somebody gotta do it! it's a newyear :twisted: naaanmaaamaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhnnmm! LOL!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:39 pm 
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turbohull wrote:
:shock: are you doing that in your living room? :lol:


well i cant do it in the apartment garage as all cars sit together plus they are annoyin as fuck when it comes dealing with cars in the complex. so i took the engine out in a friends backyard and brought to my apartment. i actually am doing this in my rooomates room, he left about 3 months ago so i keep all my car stuff in there as a deposit.

:)


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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 4:39 pm 
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Update: Block machine, crank nitrated. 75,5mm bore. Already have rod bearings and main bearings. I need oil pump and oil pump pick up tube + filter. Head needs to be rebuilt, don't think I am going to do any head work yet to avoid further delays in the project.

I also have gotten my manifold, single underdrive pulley and ARP studs.

Image

I need to buy parts from the U.S. as we don't have the parts I need here.


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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 1:31 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 17, 2006 1:53 am
Posts: 237
Location: london
hi mate with the gearbox depending on budget a lsd is good if not weld it further form this a awd gearbox is best bet and also some semi solid mounts and a stabiliser of some sort help to reduce tramp

steve

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:49 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 04, 2008 11:55 pm
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Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Also, i'm not sure if you guys got the AWD GT's in your part of South America, but that transmission, if you simply remove the shaft to the rear differential, is stronger and more reliable for various reasons you can look up and i can't name off by hand. :D


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 10:21 am 
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l4mbch0ps wrote:
Also, i'm not sure if you guys got the AWD GT's in your part of South America, but that transmission, if you simply remove the shaft to the rear differential, is stronger and more reliable for various reasons you can look up and i can't name off by hand. :D


We don't have AWD ones here. I am looking into a Sedan Gearbox as I read it is stronger. I'm going to use the stop gearbox and drive grandma style...

Project is getting closer to completion:


Attachments:
File comment: Molykote Sprayed on all parts before assembly (except rings of course)
IMG_0454.jpg
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File comment: mounted pistons on rods and started putting the rings
pistao_biela.jpg
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File comment: Molykote sprayed on Crank and Camshafts
IMG_0459.jpg
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File comment: Crank in place and torqued... these are nice brackets that hold in place to avoid vibration, one of my gti motors had the other didn't...
virabrequim_montado_t.JPG
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File comment: Bottom end almost ready, needs new oil pump, all parts torqued properly. Gap for the Vitara's is 0,05mm
adeus_taxa_t.JPG
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 2:43 pm 
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Posts: 246
Ordered new pickup tube and strainer, new oil pump and tensioner...

Waiting for parts to complete assembly!


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:04 pm 
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getting closer to completion, moving to head soon. Need to know torque for ARP studs.


Attachments:
File comment: New Oil Pump, Strainer, Painted Parts, Bolts Nicely Treated... looking good
zincado1.JPG
zincado1.JPG [ 421.77 KIB | Viewed 3032 times ]
File comment: Tensioner and Oil Tube on too...
oil tube.JPG
oil tube.JPG [ 481.67 KIB | Viewed 3031 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 11:37 am 
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Posts: 237
Location: london
35nm 55 nm 80 nm recomended is 75nm but i go a little over hence the 80nm


steve

p.s looks good

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 6:14 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 12, 2006 5:44 am
Posts: 246
Cranked it up and she ran pretty good. We did have a few oil leaks which were solved and a few loosen bolts which we tighten it up. Was pretty impressed how good it performed considering the low Compression Ratio. It's noticeable more at lower RPMs, up on top the car still feels good and runs nice.

I've took it to the track for a pass, did a nice burnout without nitrous and put the tyres to good use!! Aligned for race against a Honda Civic, had good reaction and left him in the dust even with terrible 2,5' 60ft. 1st stabilized I pressed the nitrous button, RPMs climbed, went into 2nd, sprayed and lost a lil bit of traction but then stabilized... was going to shift into 3rd when the gear didnt go in. As matter fact, none of the gears would go in... I had to take the car back home. Took the box apart found that the clutch disc was torn apart... lol

I just put in a Ceramic Disc now and the car is looking good. Did some runs with 84hp shot (1.1mm) and it ran pretty darn good. Aside from the head gasket, I lost some compression in cyl #2 im looking into putting a MLS gasket now and closing the motor again.


Attachments:
File comment: dropping the block in
dropped block.jpg [104.41 KIB]
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File comment: ARP Head Studs
ARP Studs.jpg [57.05 KIB]
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File comment: Before putting the newly painted valve cover.
no valve cover.jpg [96.78 KIB]
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File comment: new valve cover
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File comment: installed nitrous fogger, pic at gas station before hitting the track.
fogger.jpg [98.66 KIB]
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File comment: Angled shot of nitrous fogger and solenoids with the newly painted valve cover and intake. :-)
sign1300.jpg [98.9 KIB]
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 11:47 am 
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Location: Norfolk
looks good mate, im considering fitting nos, is a 50 shot worth having? I want reliable power

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 10:20 pm 
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stevieh6 wrote:
looks good mate, im considering fitting nos, is a 50 shot worth having? I want reliable power


50 wet should should not be a problem, just make sure you go for colder plugs. 8 or 9 heat indicator NGK's i'd say. also can turn ur distributer a bit to retard engine timing without haivng to buy standalone.


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