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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 5:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:28 pm
Posts: 3
Location: minnesota
hello, I have had a few metros, nothing to write home about, just a bunch of mk3 base models.

This summer, I would like to build an engine for my daily driver, which is a 2001 3cyl 5spd (I deliver pizza, so MPG is important). My idea is to take a 1.0 block, put on a mk1 head, and build it for high compression (around 11 or 12:1) and then stick a turbo on it, because I live in Minnesota and E85 is EVERYWHERE. I was also thinking of running a mk2 trans for the numerically lower final drive, since E85 provides a ton more low to midrange torque. I still want to run the TBI (not stock, bigger injector and TB), but before the turbo, so the E85 gets homogenized by turbo blades (smokey yunicks HVCE engine employed this) a gt1852 turbo with the VNT conrtol for super responsive boost. then, top it all off with megasquirt running COP ignition system, controlling boost and fuel as well.

then, I would like to build a copy of that engine, hook it up to an early samurai 4wd drivetrain and stick it in a 1968 datsun roadster (with the 4wd, or awd if there is a single speed transfer case available?)

so, I will need mk1 NA pistons for this, right? also, what about mk1 turbo rods? I hear they are forged, not cast. Is it worth putting these in if I want around 200ish HP? also, for the metro, would a 4 cyl trans be beefier? I have heard that they have a 1" thick ring gear as opposed to a 3 cyls 3/4" thick ring gear? will everything bolt up if I use a 4 cyl trans?

For the datsun swap, I know a 4wd/awd swap would be probably pointless with 200 tire boiling hp, but it would be fun, and since I have had a few audis, I have grown quite fond of AWD in performance applications. The engine would save me rgith around 200lbs, maybe more. (the stock R16 weighs in at around 350lbs dressed) and the trans is probably pretty heavy too, seeing as how it was built and engineered in the 60s the roadster has a stock curb weight of 1984lbs, and Im sure it weighs less, because thats what is listed on the title. with a metro engine, and some other weight saving stuff, I could probably get it under 1700 no sweat.

What are my RWD/4wd/awd trans options for a G10t? I know a samurai trans will bolt up, but those are hard to find. Sidekick? any one out there with a 1:1 hi range 4wd ratio? I want numerically low axels too. roadster stock rear ratio is 3.89:1, and Id like to end up somwhere around there.

thanks in advance!


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 4:45 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2010 1:39 am
Posts: 23
Location: Brisbane
MPG cant be important if you plan to run e85.

e85 makes a ton more grunt IF you tune it accordingly. You will be looking at using somewhere in the range of 20-40percent more fuel then you do now. 20 on lighter loads and if you go turbo look at closer to 50 percent more fuel. Yes you will make more power AND there is effiency in power but you will be much worse off MPG wise


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 7:02 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 4:21 pm
Posts: 593
Location: Durham, UK
Hi,

In Europe, we have Subaru Justy AWD which is re-badged Suzuki Swift AWD.
If you could get hold of this car, you can fit G10/13B/13BA bolt on direct to this drive train.

This link below is my good friend's car which has Mini Van body on top with G13B engine.

http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6952

G10T uses same conrods with G13B Gti. If you need them let me know I might be able to help!

Cheers
Atchi


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