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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 8:02 pm 
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So I took the advice and pulled the hose so that the catch can is being atmosphere vented. Sure enough, the smoke is completely gone. I also am pretty sure my loss of 3psi is due to the fact that the damn boost gauge sits at around 4in/Hg when the engine is off. So i'm guessing i'm still boosting around 7psi and the gauge needs calibrating. Now I have two more questions.
- besides the idle being a little lower and slightly more stable, is there any advantage to the breather to be plumbed back to complete the vacuum? And if so, where would I install it since my smoke problems were because I had the valve cover breather plumbed back like stock.

EDIT: Might as well throw a few more questions:
- What should I gap my plugs to? They are NGK Iridium
- What should my ignition timing be set to?
- Any other questions or suggestions worth bringing up based on the info/pics/vids?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 11:54 pm 
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Bought a new boost gauge and decided to go mechanical oil pressure gauge since the electrical one seems to be crapped out already. I also managed to light them up too! Big feat for me since i'm afraid of something blowing up on a regular basis. It also looks like i'm boosting 8psi with the new gauge and no boost leaks. It pulled hard enough to beat a 2003ish Mustang.

Anyways, there hasn't been any smoke since I pulled the breather line from the intake, so that's still good. And just to show how I did my catch can, I finally got around to uploading the picture:

Image

I know I need to put a filter on the end of that. I'll probably hit up Mopac and get one when I have a chance unless someone has an idea to where it can be plumbed since the idle isn't as smooth since it was disconnected.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2012 2:22 pm 
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nick,

your idle will most probably be happiest if you are returning the crankcase/ valve cover vented air to the induction set. it's very important when you are using a maf to measure mass air flow as the crankcase vapors will have already been included in the measured intake air and fueling has been adjusted to allow for that mass of air.

if you vent the crankcase to atmosphere the engine will run at various levels of fuel richness depending on the proportion of crankcase vapor the pcv valve is passing and how much air is exhausted to the atmosphere.

if you take the outlet of the puke can and run a hose back into the induction tube just after the maf, the measured air is returned to the intake after the maf sample and no make up air gets added through the maf.

although my turbo3 is map controlled, i still ran my valve cover vent back to the induction tube just after the air filter. the idle was considerably better with the crankcase having a small draft applied to pull crank vapors out of the engine. the "p" in "pcv" stands for positive. :wink:
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2012 2:51 pm 
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Well I have a new problem. It will start and immediately die. If I hold the accelerator down it will stay started but its shitting out black smoke and has a "putputputput" sound. My mechanic friend thinks it has to do with the spark plugs. Any other ideas?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 12:25 am 
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black smoke is way too much fuel. holding the throttle open also winds the tps up which tells the ecu to increase the injection pulse width.

with that condition, your plugs are probably black with puffy soot and may well be fouled.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 10:54 am 
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The only thing that bugs me is that it didn't start after I took it for a pull. It happened after I took it for a lovely cruise to the convenience store. Came back and tried to start it and it just wanted to die and sputter.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 7:26 am 
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First off check your plugs. All the tuners around here told me not to rrun the irridium with boost because they have a to break apart and get stuck in the ringlands. The pcv problem you have is a simple fix. Where the valve cover gets fresh air vent that to atmospher along with the other side of your valve cover. If you dont want oil in your engine bay or to smell it run the vents under the car and out the back. Your stock motor will have blow by with boost. So plug the whole in your intake pipe. But check your plugs and then check to see if with having the vents hooked to the motor blew oil onto your maf. Hope this helps. Thanks Stephen


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 9:08 am 
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So I guess the next questions are, what plug should I use, and how will I tell how effed my cylinder walls are without removing the head? Or is removing the head the only option at this point.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 9:09 pm 
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I'm parking the car until further notice. The best scenario is that I burnt valve(s) and the compression is effed in at least one cylinder. No matter the case, I can't afford anything so there probably won't be much coming from this thread.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:29 pm 
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Do a dry and wet compression test... that would tell you if you have a bottom end leakdown issue. I doubt this is it.

I don't think it's the plugs either, multiples don't go bad at the same time. To rule it out, go buy factory NGK coppers. It's all I ran on my turbo'd GT (10psi) and never had a problem. Nice widget super dooper plugs don't make much of a difference with a stock ignition system powering them.

Check your wiring splices if you re-routed the Maf. If you have a spare maf, try it. Are you blowing through your maf? If so... I wouldn't doubt it needs cleaned badly from all the oil/ blow by that was pushed through the motor when you were putting boost into the crankcase. DO NOT TOUCH THE WIRES! Just use electrical cleaner or brake clean and compressed air.

Have you checked your TPS through it's range?

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 2:50 pm 
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Changed the plugs with no improvement. The maf is after the turbo so no wires have been spliced. No oil should have made it to the maf either since I had the breather t'd into the stock vacuum line near the throttle. I'll still check to see the condition of the maf but I doubt thats the culprit. I have also revved it up 1000rpm at a time and it sounds terrible up to around 5000 then when i let off it Sounds smooth dropping back to idle then falls to 200rpm Sounding like a chopper. I'll be sure to keep you updated on the findings.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 9:37 pm 
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So I found out my problem by mistake. I removed the MAF to see its condition. Honestly I don't know what looks right or not so I guess it was a little pointless other than seeing that the sensor closest to the opening looked clean and the one behind it was black. Anyways I readjusted all my intake piping so it fit a little snugger and forgot to plug the maf back in. I started it up and it purred. I realized I forgot it, plugged it back in, and it went right back to its death croak.

All is not lost, just need to get me a new MAF. Of course they need to be expensive as balls.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2012 2:00 am 
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New new update on my issues. Turns out the person who owned the engine previously had cut and reconnected the wires about 4 inches before the plug for the MAF. I'm pretty sure that the black wire is causing all the problems. So until I can solder and shrink the wire properly, the spiced spot on the problem wire has been isolated so I can adjust it if the car starts to chug again. Just goes to show that I need to stop thinking so negatively and just try the simplest stuff first.

On another note, i'll be putting the Swift into a car show! I've done some minor things including painting a few things and installing a few things to make the car look better. It would be a long shot to win anything so i'm just going to show that anything is possible if you have the dream and the ambition.... and lots of time, money, and a wife that doesn't kill you for buying parts behind her back.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 7:44 pm 
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Good start. Can't wait to have the fuel controller installed and a starter tune.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 10:23 pm 
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That MPH I believe is a little optimistic, I'm betting it to be more around 90-92 with that time. Get to a track and pull air out of the front tires! :D

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 10:55 pm 
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airwerks wrote:
That MPH I believe is a little optimistic, I'm betting it to be more around 90-92 with that time. Get to a track and pull air out of the front tires! :D

Does it make a difference that i'm 3452ft above sea level? Numbers are kind of funky because of that.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:19 pm 
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I think both ET and MPH are high, especially because of your altitude. When my first setup was ran at the track (it was very similar to yours) on a prepped track with low air pressure in the front tires and with aggressive launches against the ebrake I was running a best of 14.9's @ 92 MPH, on a track at 300ft above sea level. Take it to a track and report back, then we can have a real life comparitor to dynolicios.....

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:25 pm 
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airwerks wrote:
I think both ET and MPH are high, especially because of your altitude. When my first setup was ran at the track (it was very similar to yours) on a prepped track with low air pressure in the front tires and with aggressive launches against the ebrake I was running a best of 14.9's @ 92 MPH, on a track at 300ft above sea level. Take it to a track and report back, then we can have a real life comparitor to dynolicios.....


You have no idea how much I want to. Unfortunately the closest one is 2 hours away. So I would have to take half a day off work on a Friday for a street legal night. Supposedly the Dynolicious app is supposed to be one of the most accurate dyno apps. Also, would it help if I did a few pulls to see if there was a margin of error? I can also update the weight of the car with my in it to get a more accurate hp.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 11:50 pm 
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Finally got around to meeting up with the dude with the Neo. Super nice guy installed it and the MTX-L. So now the Swift has fuel control! The only issue I have right now is that i'm pretty sure the wideband needs to be calibrated again because my AFR was constantly between 10.8 and 8.0. WAAAAAAAY too rich.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:26 pm 
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So I recalibrated the wideband which bumped the afr's up a little but the idle thing was still screwed. So I did a half decent solder on the wires that were cut and crimped. The car runs like a champ except idling. the ratio hits upwards of 19 so I adjusted it with the SAFC so now it idles in the high 14s. It's a temporary fix if there is a way to fix it. Also, I went on eBay and bought the 10.2mm spark plug wires. That also helped the car be a little less finicky plus they look pretty darn good.
Image

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 11:57 am 
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10.2mm spark plug wires from eBay. Really changes the look of the engine bay. All I really have to do is some spot painting around the bay, get the valve cover painted, and get a different battery boot and the colour theme will be complete.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 1:16 am 
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How are those wires holding up? Saw on a post about they not being good for turbo? Check it out viewtopic.php?f=4&t=53846

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 7:37 am 
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So far no issues. Although 50km isn't much for testing.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 9:30 am 
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Looks good. I wish i could tune my 96tbi with apexi.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 8:01 pm 
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sledgehammer wrote:
Looks good. I wish i could tune my 96tbi with apexi.


I'm glad I have the SAFC and wideband now. Learning new things about the car that would have been nice to know before I even turbocharged it. For instance, my AFR leans out pretty bad when I shift gears and start out in the 1500 area. Causes the car to hesitate then it kicks back down and the car takes off. This thing needs a professional tune REALLY bad.

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