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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 9:03 pm 
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Ok, so. I've seen a few questions regarding supercharging a G10 motor but no one has done so (that I can find). Why is this? Here in the US. G10's aren't hard to come by. Well at least form what I've seen. There is a place here in arlington texas that has some motors and heads (etc.) for fair prices. I digress.

I have done some research and may have found a good candidate for a supercharger. It is the procharger A-1 supercharger. They are used for atv/utv applications and have a rating for 100/150hp. This seems to be a great way to go. But cannot find a price anywhere for just the supercharger (centrifugal). Only the kits for Polaris model utv's. Which are around $3000 to $6000 depending which website you go to. Anyone have an idea where to find just the supercharger it's self? Also there is a company that is called Raven Redrive. And they make a kit for G10 engines to put into ultra light aircraft or something. They clam they have a supercharged model/kit. I contacted them and never got a reply. (been over 6 months)

So the supercharge is out there for the G10. Why hasn't anyone taken a carbonated g10 and add a super sucker to it in an automotive application? Or did I just miss something somewhere?

I plan on getting a weber, exhaust and a 3 tech cam before going to the supercharger. What is the max hp one of these engines can take? With everything mentioned what would be the max gain? What will the transmission take HP wise?

Are there any other superchargers out there that can be had that are belt driven and are affordable?

I would like to go with a belt driven centrifugal supercharger and use it in place of the a/c belt (where it used to be). So very curious about this. Anyone have any thoughts on this subject?

This is all hypothetical ATM. As I am working right now to stop all the leaks and little things with the car first. Once these are done money will be spent on HP gains. :razz:

Links: http://www.raven-rotor.com/html/redrive.html (raven redrive)

http://www.procharger.com/powersports_s ... gers.shtml (procharger)

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1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 5:53 am 
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Have you tried contacting procharger directly? You could also try going onto the ultralite forums and asking about the redrive kits.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 8:45 am 
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Get a supercharger from a slk 230. It provides 7,8psi for the 2.3. But the crank on them is like 7 or 8 something inches. And that's about twice the g10s pulley. So figure it reduces rotation by about half or more and the supercharger should produce 7 or pounds for the g10 maybe even less because the sc isn't near its limit (like it is on the Mercedes). One more nice thing about this sc is that it comes with a clutched pulley so you can turn it on and off. It'd be good for a full throttle switch or something. Good luck.

I'd recommend an mk1 engine. Has the hemi style head, and mike has good cams for them. My .02

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00 swift 2dr turbo 1.3 5spd 4.10. Sold to friend.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 4:25 pm 
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sledgehammer wrote:
Get a supercharger from a slk 230. It provides 7,8psi for the 2.3. But the crank on them is like 7 or 8 something inches. And that's about twice the g10s pulley. So figure it reduces rotation by about half or more and the supercharger should produce 7 or pounds for the g10 maybe even less because the sc isn't near its limit (like it is on the Mercedes). One more nice thing about this sc is that it comes with a clutched pulley so you can turn it on and off. It'd be good for a full throttle switch or something. Good luck.

I'd recommend an mk1 engine. Has the hemi style head, and mike has good cams for them. My .02


the c230 kompressors came with the same one, its a eaton m45, the nice part about it is you don't have to build a manifold, maybe cram it where the ac compressor goes and all you have is a pipe in and a pipe out

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 5:27 pm 
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If its pipe in and pipe out that would make intercooling/after cooling easy.

If it is clutch driven that means its non-positive displacement or has an internal bypass.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 7:22 pm 
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Quote:
I'd recommend an mk1 engine

I have an 87 sprint rocking that motor.

Quote:
maybe cram it where the ac compressor goes and all you have is a pipe in and a pipe out

That was kinda the plan. There is some tossing around of making a mounting plate for it. Which would be cheap.

Quote:
If its pipe in and pipe out that would make inter-cooling/after cooling easy

Also on the list. Was thinking an air to air system as they are cheaper and small enough to mount in the engine bay or grill area. IE removing the AC fan. which I don't even use the A/C so out it goes.

The reason I want to go supercharger is easy. It's bolt on HP. Not a lot of plumbing involved. I understand there will be parasitic loss and yada yada. But this just seems to be the cheapest way to go on a carbonated 1.0 3 banger. Turbo would involve a lot more work and money to get setup.

I live in Texas where the speed limit is a suggestion. So my little 40hp (maybe down hill?) shoebox. needs a bit more get out of the way. :blackeye:

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 9:42 pm 
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bigbadmonster wrote:
carbonated 1.0 3 banger.


what the hell is a carbonated 1.0 3 banger? a soda pop? :huh:

:lol: :-P :wink:

are you talking about a carbureted g10? are you sure that you don't have a single point throttle body injection system? do you have a plan for controlling injector pulsewidth to ensure proper fueling?

hey, you wanted to talk about it. :wink:

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 2:34 pm 
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People have been adding superchargers to carburetor cars for a long time. I have what you would call an electric carburetor? not TBI or EFI or really anything "injected". Just the run of the mill Hitachi (sp) at the moment. Thinking of going weber carburetor for this application. With a custom carburetor hat. Don't want to use much cpu on the car if I don't have to. Just going classic hot rod style.

Also, going for new custom exhaust and headers. But Carburetor, Cam, and exhaust are first. If it helps to get a better idea I have a 1987 base model sprint 993cc 1.0L 3cyl. Everything so far is stock. Aside from an air cleaner. Which my area doesn't carry sprint filters anymore so I had to do some modifications. I.e. buy a new hat and filter. So I have a massive vacuum leak :blackeye: :mrgreen:

I think it wouldn't be too hard on how to figure out. right?

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1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 6:27 pm 
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that narrows things down. you should put that info about your car in your signature so that everyone knows what year and model you're talking about. the g10 covers model years from 85 to 2000 with various changes at key points.

hit the user control panel button up in the right corner.

i'd think that it would be hard to do a blow through setup with that factory pinball machine carburetor. i'd think that finding a range of jets for that would be like finding a needle in a haystack. :-P

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 10:26 pm 
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Yes.I want the junk carb on there to go away. I'm sure MCS is shot anyway. Thinking Weber 32/32 manual choke. Maybe. Then custom hat. for inlet. I hear people on here putting Webers on these engines. Are they a direct bolt on or do I need some sort of mounting plate? :huh:

Anyway awaiting a reply from procharger. To see cost of just the blower.

I have so many stupid questions about all this. I guess it's back to doing some research. TO THE INTERNET!! :!:

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1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 5:54 pm 
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The only stupid question is the one not asked. There are some that require a little more thought before asking though. You never now, some one else might have the same questions. :wink:

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1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed 3-door hatchback "herbie"
1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed convertible "sportie"


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PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 8:30 pm 
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I saw on youtube that someone supercharged a 993cc daihatsu charade. So I'm pretty sure it can be done to the G10.

Anyone know if a weber would hold up to a supercharger? Another question is how much boost will the lil 1.0L take? I also saw a video of a 100 shot of No2 that blew a 1.0L up. But not sure of the pressures.

Another question. Does a super charger need a blow off valve?

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1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 1:49 am 
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If you talk to the turbo guys they can probably answer your question about how much boost. But if the pistons end up in the oil pan I would bet you have too much.

As to the weber carb, you might want to check with weber on that one. I do know that one of the centrifugal super charger companies made a box for containing the carbs under pressure which made tuning easier and didn't require the use of special carbs.

blow off valve wouldn't hurt. if you need to slam the throttle shut where is the pressure going to go? Even the gm Eaton have internal bypass valves.

You need to talk to roots blown. He has been putting eaton blowers on G13's for some time. His thread is stickied.

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1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed 3-door hatchback "herbie"
1990 geo metro 1.0 5 speed convertible "sportie"


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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 7:38 pm 
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Thanks.

I am going to get a leak test and do another compression test before I get too crazy to see if the engine is up to the task.
I also figured I could make an air box/carb hat out of aluminum. I got some machine shop buddies for these reasons :)
Also making a mounting plate out of aluminum would be nice.

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 10:18 pm 
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with the stock g10 internals you'll be limited as to applied boost pressure and horsepower.

the connecting rods on a n/a g10 are fairly noodley, you can stretch and/ or bend them pretty easily. the pistons have their wrist pins set pretty low and the piston skirts can be pretty fragile. to better support the increase of hp and torque on the 92 hp turbo3 engine the factory used the same connecting rods they used in the dohc 16v g13b along with shorter, more robust pistons.

to support boost you need to drop the base compression ratio. the standard g10 runs around 9.1:1 compression at atmospheric pressure, the turbo3 runs around 8.5:1 compression with a peak boost of around 8 psi.

fueling will be an issue needing resolution. the turbo3 runs 3 injectors in an mpfi setup with a cold start injector that fogs the intake plenum and a single throttle body. that arrangement provides fairly precise fuel delivery. i think that the mpfi injection would be better than a blow through carb i remember seeing pics of a blown through 2 barrel weber turbo g10 that suprf1y built for a landspeed guy that was pretty sweet.

i'd be more concerned with the comparitively high parasitic drag of the blower and it's belt drive over the efficiency of a turbo.

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My Turbo3 Project
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My YouTube Channel
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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 8:32 pm 
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t3 ragtop wrote:
with the stock g10 internals you'll be limited as to applied boost pressure and horsepower.

the connecting rods on a n/a g10 are fairly noodley, you can stretch and/ or bend them pretty easily. the pistons have their wrist pins set pretty low and the piston skirts can be pretty fragile. to better support the increase of hp and torque on the 92 hp turbo3 engine the factory used the same connecting rods they used in the dohc 16v g13b along with shorter, more robust pistons.

to support boost you need to drop the base compression ratio. the standard g10 runs around 9.1:1 compression at atmospheric pressure, the turbo3 runs around 8.5:1 compression with a peak boost of around 8 psi.

fueling will be an issue needing resolution. the turbo3 runs 3 injectors in an mpfi setup with a cold start injector that fogs the intake plenum and a single throttle body. that arrangement provides fairly precise fuel delivery. i think that the mpfi injection would be better than a blow through carb i remember seeing pics of a blown through 2 barrel weber turbo g10 that suprf1y built for a landspeed guy that was pretty sweet.

i'd be more concerned with the comparitively high parasitic drag of the blower and it's belt drive over the efficiency of a turbo.


With that said If I did a turbo in the long run it would cost more scratch. I mean I would have to do the mentioned and then turbo piping for exhaust and so on and so forth.

I would like to see a G10 "blown". Mainly just haven't seen it. And I think it would cost thousands less. Running the belt off of accessory belt I would feel wouldn't drag anymore than the A/C compressor would if I used it. So loss would be minimal.

Beefing up the pistons, rods, and internals sound like a boss idea. I wouldn't want to blow it up and have to buy another $500 engine :|

Now I got to go do some more price checking and add stuff to the list of parts. :roll: :mrgreen:

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 7:31 pm 
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for what its worth....
procharger, not a great idea, performance wize, but an easy way to get forced induction on a car.
blow thougth on the stock carb? probly not a good idea. the carb suck. but some one recently dumped all the electronics on it and was getting in the 45 mpg range....
and the stock carbe has never been under boost and documented. so things like float colapse could be an issue and jets, as pointed out.
a webber carb would be better for this.

get a wide band o2 sensor. even a cheap one is better then not haveing one.

i would still say get a megasquirt for fuel injection.

i would love to see a super charged 3 cyl mk1 !

edit: pro charger a-1p, 325 cfm. (morre than enough, 100 hp max stated)
75,000 max rpm. / by 4.11 = 18,248 rpm at pully.
max rpm of motor, 6000 (really is 4500 on stock oil pump. subject for another day)
so to get max rpm, 15 psi out of a-1p u need a pully ratio of 3:1.


lets assume u use a pully at the same size as the ac pully. 1:1.
assuming SC is linear in boost (should be)
6000 * 4.11 (internal speed step up ) 24660 rpm
75000 / 24500 = 3
15 psi / 3 = 5 psi

325 cfm / 3 = 108 cfm

so, at 5pis g10 needs 113 cfm. too small.

2:1 would be better, but it looks like after some quick and dirty math you might want the a-1r model. 450 cfm.

so lets run the math again (ill skip to the end).

basicly 3/cfm = 150. psi is the same.


so, at 6000 rpm, we see a max of 5psi boost, and 150 cfm (113 needed for 5psi)
this is running 1:1 pully ratio, pretty much the wose case senario.

u need to run some more math, to get the stock pully size for the SC as well as the size of the AC pully, to get a ratio. also becareful to not over speed the procharger. bad idea for a oil lubricated SC.

u can play with the math and see when boost comes on and what ur red line is. (this might be fun on the stock oil pump, supporting only 5000 rpm :D )


so lets run the math again, this time assuming a 5000 rpm redline and a A-1R 450 cfm 15psi procharger and a 2:1 pully.
18242 rpm input
5000 rpm * 2 = 10000
10000/18242 = 54% of max

so at 5k, 7.5 psi, 225 cfm.

and again,

2000 * 2 = 4000
4000/18242 = 21%
450 * 0.21 = 94 cfm.
15 * 0.21 = 3.15

so we would see 3.15 psi of boost at 2000 rpm with a 2:1 pully (doable me thinks) and alot more cfm than needed.

then again, the lower 325 cfm model might work better here in my armchair boosted g10 motor.

crap, now i want one.... :mrgreen: look what you have done!

_________________
"muchos tanks, village destruidos"
"muchos sanks, menos submarinos"
"its the dreams that keep you alive"
-vernon wasser-

88 sprint, 4dr sold :(
87 turbo 2dr, never ran :( :(
86 sprint, 2dr current DD! :)


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2013 8:59 pm 
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nemoskull wrote:
for what its worth....
procharger, not a great idea, performance wize, but an easy way to get forced induction on a car.
blow thougth on the stock carb? probly not a good idea. the carb suck. but some one recently dumped all the electronics on it and was getting in the 45 mpg range....
and the stock carbe has never been under boost and documented. so things like float colapse could be an issue and jets, as pointed out.
a webber carb would be better for this.

get a wide band o2 sensor. even a cheap one is better then not haveing one.

i would still say get a megasquirt for fuel injection.

i would love to see a super charged 3 cyl mk1 !

edit: pro charger a-1p, 325 cfm. (morre than enough, 100 hp max stated)
75,000 max rpm. / by 4.11 = 18,248 rpm at pully.
max rpm of motor, 6000 (really is 4500 on stock oil pump. subject for another day)
so to get max rpm, 15 psi out of a-1p u need a pully ratio of 3:1.


lets assume u use a pully at the same size as the ac pully. 1:1.
assuming SC is linear in boost (should be)
6000 * 4.11 (internal speed step up ) 24660 rpm
75000 / 24500 = 3
15 psi / 3 = 5 psi

325 cfm / 3 = 108 cfm

so, at 5pis g10 needs 113 cfm. too small.

2:1 would be better, but it looks like after some quick and dirty math you might want the a-1r model. 450 cfm.

so lets run the math again (ill skip to the end).

basicly 3/cfm = 150. psi is the same.


so, at 6000 rpm, we see a max of 5psi boost, and 150 cfm (113 needed for 5psi)
this is running 1:1 pully ratio, pretty much the wose case senario.

u need to run some more math, to get the stock pully size for the SC as well as the size of the AC pully, to get a ratio. also becareful to not over speed the procharger. bad idea for a oil lubricated SC.

u can play with the math and see when boost comes on and what ur red line is. (this might be fun on the stock oil pump, supporting only 5000 rpm :D )


so lets run the math again, this time assuming a 5000 rpm redline and a A-1R 450 cfm 15psi procharger and a 2:1 pully.
18242 rpm input
5000 rpm * 2 = 10000
10000/18242 = 54% of max

so at 5k, 7.5 psi, 225 cfm.

and again,

2000 * 2 = 4000
4000/18242 = 21%
450 * 0.21 = 94 cfm.
15 * 0.21 = 3.15

so we would see 3.15 psi of boost at 2000 rpm with a 2:1 pully (doable me thinks) and alot more cfm than needed.

then again, the lower 325 cfm model might work better here in my armchair boosted g10 motor.

crap, now i want one.... :mrgreen: look what you have done!


My god man..

LOL, Thanks for posting some math.

I figured (without math) that 3 to 5 psi would probably be the range. Any more than that is risky. Don't want to blow the dang head.
Or worse yet send the pistons thru the oil pan or anything like that :blackeye:

I think this can be done. With a lil hard work and some cash anything is feasible, right?

Sorry to make you want one btw. :twisted:

But the idea just sounds so easy it's a shocker no one has done it here yet. I need to start saving up some cash for this and get the ball rolling. Been slow at work and haven't been raking in the cash. :cry:

Again, thanks for that formula. I will be studying that and trying to come up with some things like a pulley, etc.
Maybe some parts hunting is in order.

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 12:02 am 
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what i would like is to set pully for max psi of 15, then use bov or something of the like to bleed off anything over 5psi. that way,you would get max boost at really low rpms.

but gee whiz, price is 2,500 :roll:
i paid 950 for car, then 700 parts.

PROCHAGER COST MORE THAN MY CAR AND MY REBUILD TOGETHER!

_________________
"muchos tanks, village destruidos"
"muchos sanks, menos submarinos"
"its the dreams that keep you alive"
-vernon wasser-

88 sprint, 4dr sold :(
87 turbo 2dr, never ran :( :(
86 sprint, 2dr current DD! :)


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 12:28 am 
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Using blow off will work but you may as well set it up to provide 5psi all the time because you be wasting you power gain on turning the damn sc 3times as fast. Or just go roots blown. Probly cheaper still and instant.

_________________
GEO MAFIA!
00 swift 2dr turbo 1.3 5spd 4.10. Sold to friend.
93 geo metro with 96 1.3 5spd swap turboed at 5psi. roommates.
14 ford Mustang v6.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:27 am 
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cheaper, yes. but how efficent?
parasitic loss is not a big deal on a v6 or v8.
i dont know.
cheaper yes. never seen it done on a 3 cyl either :)

_________________
"muchos tanks, village destruidos"
"muchos sanks, menos submarinos"
"its the dreams that keep you alive"
-vernon wasser-

88 sprint, 4dr sold :(
87 turbo 2dr, never ran :( :(
86 sprint, 2dr current DD! :)


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 3:47 am 
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The extra parasitic drag will affect it a lot because its a tiny engine. And a belt drive vortec isn't going to be much if any more efficient than a properly sized and setup roots system. The engine itself has to rotate both to spool. Unlike a turbo that uses the exhaust.

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GEO MAFIA!
00 swift 2dr turbo 1.3 5spd 4.10. Sold to friend.
93 geo metro with 96 1.3 5spd swap turboed at 5psi. roommates.
14 ford Mustang v6.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 5:44 pm 
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Location: KC, Kansas
I would think. Since the A/c compressor (actually stock on the car mind you.) had a drive belt off of the crank pulley. That in it's self would have takes a bit of drag to run the A/C. My compressor is dead and is just taking up space and weight at the moment. So I would think removing the A/C compressor (doesn't have a belt anyway) and replacing it with a SC that has a lubricated bearing in it would take less drag that the compressor would. Now mind you the A/C compressor isn't always running in a car but the belt to the pulley on the compressor is.

So ipso facto. Shouldn't take any more drag than the A/C. Right? :mrgreen:

_________________
1987 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (R.I.P.)
1986 Chevy Sprint base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Totaled)
1994 Geo Metro base 1.0 3cyl 993cc (Had to sell)
1996 Geo Tracker 1.6l 16v 4cyl 1590cc (Daily)


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 9:22 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2007 12:33 pm
Posts: 264
Location: yuma, AZ.
i think its pretty safe to say, yes. compression air to 5 psi is very different than compressing a gas to 200 psi and back into a liquid.
plus there is that whole forced induction thingy :D

tho a turbo woud be more efficent.

BTW, wahts the efficency of a roots style SC?

the prochager should be in the area of 70%

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"muchos tanks, village destruidos"
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"its the dreams that keep you alive"
-vernon wasser-

88 sprint, 4dr sold :(
87 turbo 2dr, never ran :( :(
86 sprint, 2dr current DD! :)


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:34 pm 
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Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2010 1:19 am
Posts: 183
Location: Tampa
i am supercharging my g10 right now. it is taking much longer than i thought due to my budget.

some things i have figured out.....

use the g10t pistons and gti rods like t3ragtop said.

you can certainly use a merc m45....although i havent been able to find one for less than i can buy an extra metro for...those merc guys are proud of their used junk. 400-800.

if you put an m45 on a g10, it will be capable of much much more boost than on the merc.....its a function of the superchargers output at given rpm versus the enignes air intake requirement at given rpm. its called an m45 because it puts out 45 cubic inches of air per revolution. its a positive displacement supercharger, which basically means its output is linear. its 45 per rev no matter what rpm. a centrifugal supercharger does not do this, they put out more air the faster they spin.

so the bigger the model number, the more output from an eaton "twin screw" designed positive displacement supercharger. an m62 is bigger than the g10 cubic inch wise, and very efficient, its not like putting a huge turbo on and getting tons of lag. basically it will provide all the air you could need at any rpm, and full boost anytime the throttle is moved. instant full boost. not a bad idea.

personally, i like superchargers better but im sure lots of guys will argue that point. how i see it----basically, the fastest cars on the planet, with the most horsepower, and the fastest et's, do not use turbos....they use roots type blowers. check out a top fuel dragster some time......big ass blower on there. no turbos anywhere in the field of competitors. i like the ease of exhaust plumbing, the lack of underhood heat, and the look of the supercharger better. but turbos are cool too.

supposing you have the room under hood, the junkyards are littered with eaton m62 superchargers that can be had for less than 100 bucks on the right day. they are in 3800 pontiacs, oldsmobiles, and buicks. i got mine for like 80 bucks. using the stock pulley on my charger, putting it on a 1.0 liter engine, using a 4.5 inch crank pulley, spinning the engine at 9000 rpms.....the m62 i have should be able to output roughly 35psi. plenty good enough to run 10, 15, or 20 psi should you desire. it has an internal bypass regulated by the computer thru a solenoid on the side of the unit. full boost at any rpm....adjustable with a boost controller/ megasquirt??? although they arent as plumbing/mount friendly as the merc units.

you could.....in the traditions of old hot rodders, say to hell with safety, and not blow thru the carb....instead mount it on the intake side of the eaton and use the fuel to cool the supercharger....its been done that way for years on hotrods, and thats how rootsblown does his geos. no need for intercooler this way. but you have to realize it can explode funnycar style(less the nitro) if it backfires thru the intake....... you could easily make a 45 degree adapter stand to bolt behind an eaton m62 to hold your weber carb. that way you have cooled the blower and intake charge, you have a cheap simple design, and you have a ton of jetting choices with the weber.

2 things i havent worked out is how to fit mine under the hood with a blow thru air to air intercooler and not loose the a/c.........no a/c in florida is a baaaad thing. and.....how im going to pay for the race clutch/machine work/megasquirt anytime soon.......

anyone feel free to correct any of that if i am wrong....happens alot

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dethbrd@hotmail.com


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