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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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 Post subject: Turbo G13BB HELP!!!!!
PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 3:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2012 2:01 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Idaho, USA
I am new at this turbo business but love every minute of it. I have a 1999 Chevy Metro with the G13BB SOHC 16 valve engine. I have a t28 mounted to a ZAGE manifold, Acura Interga Type-R injectors (270cc), greddy type s blow off valve, ebay 38mm waste gate and 2.5'' exhaust. My problem is I can only run 5 lbs of boost. The computer cut at more than that and gives me an engine code on map sensor voltage to high. I am looking for a cheep way to fix this issue. I have put a couple of different map sensors on and can't find on that will work. One of these days I will go Megasquirt, but can't afford it yet. I do have enough fuel and don't knock ( no knock sensor), it has to be the map sensor. Please help. There is no one around here that knows anything about this Suzuki engine. Thank you reading.


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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 5:46 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 10:52 am
Posts: 18
Hi there,

what are you using to actually add more fuel? I have a G13BB engine turbocharged as well and I used an AEM F/IC to use it's MAP sensor to add more fuel to the stock map between 0-9psi. Also used it to pull the timing back a bit when it comes into boost. The stock computer throws the check engine light for high voltage on map but it has never affected the performance.

One issue I can think of is if your adding fuel pressure or bigger injectors to get more fuel the stock computer will just pull the injector duration to not run rich off of boost. A great cheap way to add more fuel is a 5th injector with a simple controller to simply add more fuel when it detects 0+ psi of boost. I found one on ebay for my next project and it just tunes with 2 knobs (trigger point + gain.)

The one I got off e-bay was an earlier revision of this http://www.sdsefi.com/


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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 4:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2012 2:01 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Idaho, USA
At idle, fuel is optimal. At 1 pound boost, the computer adjusts to rich. I have taken the map and used a brake booster vacuum valve to blow off the extra boost but still show vacuum. I have been able to get to 9 psi boost. Any more the car starts to stumble. I can't afford a stand alone and don't know about any other options.


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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 12:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2005 12:59 am
Posts: 1047
Location: Canby, OR
Sounds like a MAP clamp would work for you..... limits the voltage before the ECU freaks out.

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Anyone who's been around children will tell you that they are in fact quite stupid. Many of them cannot even read.


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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 2:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2009 7:10 pm
Posts: 880
Location: Vancouver, WA
airwerks wrote:
Sounds like a MAP clamp would work for you..... limits the voltage before the ECU freaks out.

This.

Used to be common in the srt4 world. Not sure if it still is

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98 swift 1.6 16v swap
03 cobra bolt ons
97 3000gt vr4 e85, high comp, bolt ons
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PostPosted: Thu May 23, 2013 11:49 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 15, 2011 5:03 am
Posts: 204
Location: lake stevens, wa
Map clamp how to:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/132/aobeqh5.jpg/

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GEO MAFIA!
00 swift 2dr turbo 1.3 5spd 4.10. Sold to friend.
93 geo metro with 96 1.3 5spd swap turboed at 5psi. roommates.
14 ford Mustang v6.


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PostPosted: Fri May 24, 2013 1:42 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2012 2:01 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Idaho, USA
Thank you for your information. This has been helpful. What about transmission upgrades? I have the a210 3 speed automatic. I have used the metro and swift tranny (exploded diff ring gear). Any ideas to make it shift quicker and up the pressures in the clutch packs? I have the valve body out of the swift tranny so I can play.


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