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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2014 12:24 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2014 1:04 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Phoenix Az
Hey all!

So i figured since im constantly running around this place looking up good info, id post the build and progress of my samurai.

It started life as a 92 samurai my dad bought back in 2002. it wasnt anything special. had 33s, stock axles, 6.5:1 t-case and yj springs. We put a set of toyota axles under it after blowing the sotck crap and not long after, i blew the HG in it and it sat for a few years. Well i brought it up to college with me one semester in 2007 to get it back going. To speed the story up, i wound up buying the zuk off my dad and have done a lot of work to her since way back when. Its currently on 35s, 5.29 axle gears, 6.5:1 t-case gears, still on yj's, prettied up the interior, and on and on, and went through a couple motors lol.

So that brings me to putting a turbo on the little motor. i was bored with the rig and really didnt feel like cutting up a good rig to make a full blown buggy out of it, plus i had a few people tell me "you cant turbo a tbi setup, you wont get more than 1-2 psi before its too lean". So that was just more cause, not to metion its funny to alot of my friends lol. Im using a ko3 "s" turbo that has a jetta front compressor housing and audi exhaust housing. it was a combination of good/bad parts from two turbos, hence the jetta front compressor cover. the Audi compressor housing would have been a straight shot but i didnt feel like trying to reseal the covers back on as i didnt even know what that compound is they used to seal them lol. Its non intercooled for simplicity and might get water/meth down the road but max im running is 5psi. Also using an FMU to up fuel pressure with boost to keep AFR in check

First up was to build an exhaust manifold. yes i know, its a shitty flow design and drive pressure will not be happy but im not going for all out performance. just making her more peppy for highway and beating some 1.6 16v for fun.
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mock up of the outlet port
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Cold piping on
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Then i figured since AZ gets so damn hot in the summer and this turbo wont help oil temps on long freeway runs, id add an oil cooler. Made it from a chevy allison 6 speed trans cooler and used its aluminum lines to bend around and make work. makes a world of difference on oil temps and fits perfectly around the radiator
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About a month into driving it, i was headed to a buddies wedding rehearsal and the head gasket gave up the ghost. it didnt help i had no way of retarding ignition as boost came up other than dropping base timing down a few degrees to 5* instead of the stock 8* and it pinged a bit getting on the on ramp a few miles before.

Upon head removal i found that the motor had ate a bolt or nut at some point in its life and killed cyl 3 and the head. that explained why it would eat some oil over the past year even prior to the turbo setup. So got a new motor in the works, this time with pre 91 8.9:1 pistons (had 9.5:1 in it originally), a 1.6 head, 1.3 torquer cam, 1.6 intake manifold, 1.6 injector, and 1.6 lower throttle body.

this thing also needed an iginition box that would pull timing as boost came on cause running 4 degrees of base timing wasnt cutting it. So i bought and hooked up a MSD 6 BTM to manage that. it also didnt help my cold pipe ran right over top the exhaust housing for the turbo so i had a couple of custom blankets made for the log manifold and exhuast housing by a guy who has done lots of them for my diesel and others.
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and an overshot of the new motor in.
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that setup got driven hard a few times at the sand dunes and on the street but didnt make it much more than 2,000 miles before i blew the HG again. So that brings me up to a few weeks ago where i again "built it better".

this go around, i had a 1.6 distributor housing machined to fit a 1.3 distributor to work with my EFI, talked and sent th e1.6 cam out to mike at 3tech for one of his 226 grinds, bought arp head studs, and bought another rebuilt 1.6 head just so i could get the 1.6 cam. I finally got it all back together last week and started daily driving her this week. all i can say is WOW is this cam awesome! power is much stronger, the lope at idle is sweet and boost comes on easier than it did before! shes a bit lean right now at WOT with AFRs at 13.0 so i need to add more fuel to her but damn, what use to feel like WOT before is only 3/4 throttle now. LOVE IT!!

i had an idea of using a cold start injector, hobbs switch, and making it come on at a certain boost psi but i dont know if ill go that route. i may just go water/meth to richen it back up and keep intake temps way down. i might just try the cold start idea to see if its even viable to work without going overly rich at any point and to drop my FMU from a 12:1 to say 6 or 8:1 to help the fuel pump out.

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92 suzuki samurai, 1.3 bottom end with 8.9:1 pistons bored .020 over, 1.6 8v head, 1.6 3Tech 226 cam, 1.6 intake mani and TBI, ko3 "s" turbo


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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2014 12:22 pm 
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Location: Phoenix Az
So for those in the know, whats a good target afr for these 8v's at 5-7psi on 91 octane? ive ran between 11.0 and 13.0 at WOT. 13.0 is obvioulsy too lean and you could feel it in the top end (power dropped out). i was thinkin 11.5-11.8? maybe 12.0???

I also hooked up the secondary "cold start injector" last night for shits and giggles cause i wanted to see if it would even work well for me being you cant control pulse width and fuel pressure/hobbs switch activation pressure where all i have to mess with. First impressions are that it might just work out pretty well!. afrs went from 13.0 down to 10.5 with a 12:1 fmu in there and turning the injector on at 1psi. this was with 4.5 psi as well. So i dropped the FMU to a 10:1 and saw afr raise to 10.9/11.0. this morning i dropped to a 8:1 and am right at 11.5 which i "think" is a good target afr?? im a little richer in the mid range at 11.0 but i might see if playing with activation time can clean some of that up. im also gunna bump boost to 7psi if i can hehe.

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92 suzuki samurai, 1.3 bottom end with 8.9:1 pistons bored .020 over, 1.6 8v head, 1.6 3Tech 226 cam, 1.6 intake mani and TBI, ko3 "s" turbo


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 12:30 pm 
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Location: Phoenix Az
guess im talking to myself in here lol

made a boost controller and plugged it in last night. bumped boost to a little over 6psi and damn what a difference! im pretty content with it there and dont plan on bumping it up more. it will definitly blow any 16v 1.6 out of the water thats out here and really all i wanted was 16v performance from a 1.3, i think im doin good lol.

little speedo video from 25 to 55. not a "holy crap" by any means but for a 1.3 8v with 35s under the rig im impressed!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpqFOIp ... tF_J_JQlQg

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92 suzuki samurai, 1.3 bottom end with 8.9:1 pistons bored .020 over, 1.6 8v head, 1.6 3Tech 226 cam, 1.6 intake mani and TBI, ko3 "s" turbo


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 4:54 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
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Location: columbus, ohio
not to sound "teachy" but while you plan your fuel enrichment via added cold start injector and hobb's switch you might keep in mind that if you apply straight 12 vdc to activate the injector it will only hold the pintle open until the injector's coil saturates.

a magnetic field develops around a coil of wire only as long as electrons are moving through the coil. as soon as the dc voltage saturates the coil, the magnetic field will collapse and the pintle will fall back down into it's seat.

you need pulsed dc like generated by a square wave at a rate that will give you an averaged magnetic field strong enough to hold the pintle open for as long as the hobb's switch is active.

you aren't talking to yourself here. there are only a few people left on the board to participate in a discussion on turbo development. :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 7:12 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2014 1:04 pm
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Location: Phoenix Az
Haha well that's good to know I'm not goin nuts in here! Lol

This injector isn't/can not be pulsed. It's original design was 12v on and stay on for cold starts/warm ups on an mr2. My fear was how long it could stay on as well but when I did my testing for flow amount, I also let it run for 5 min continuous at 43.5psi and while the housing felt warm, it never got hot and it still filled 100cc every minute.

I've been keeping an eye on the afr gauge the last week and a half to see if it does die. If it does, I'll go to a actual injector and run a stand alone controller for it.

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92 suzuki samurai, 1.3 bottom end with 8.9:1 pistons bored .020 over, 1.6 8v head, 1.6 3Tech 226 cam, 1.6 intake mani and TBI, ko3 "s" turbo


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 8:35 pm 
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I knew you'd like that cam. It's perfect for a street turbo setup.

That was also my experience when I tested cold start injectors back in the day. I also used them in my turbo 3's with some success.

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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 10:15 pm 
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Location: Phoenix Az
Man mike, it's sweet! None of the off the shelf cams I've driven down here wake these things up like that cam.

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92 suzuki samurai, 1.3 bottom end with 8.9:1 pistons bored .020 over, 1.6 8v head, 1.6 3Tech 226 cam, 1.6 intake mani and TBI, ko3 "s" turbo


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 1:37 pm 
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well found a few things this past week. i kept getting a lean spot at 4psi of boost (14.0 afr). it would run rich at 10.5 afr at 3 psi and by 5 psi i would be back to 11.0 afr. i expected the FMU to make me run rich in mid boost so this was throwing me some that it wasnt consistant. couldnt figure it out till it dawned on me, its probably the map trying to cut fuel. Did a little searching on google and it all pointed to that. So i did the cheapy fix and got some check valves to vent the positive pressure to atmosphere. after some different trials and errors (running just a check valve in the line, running the valves in a line off the end of each t in the map line) i got it down to just using 2 check valves for the 6psi i was at.

this then made me discover i was running WAY richer than i needed to be, so i dropped the FMU another step down to lean things out. and of course the "wonder what one more psi is like" started itching at me so i turned it up a bit more. im at the limit of the 2 check valves so i need to add a 3rd to bleed off the rest making it to the map. 7 psi is really moving this thing now.

yeah i know its a old rinky dink way of fixing the issue when there are so much better ways out there now a days but cheap and it works! down the road, if things get too finiky or arent quite working like they should ill swap to a megasquirt system. i just know im gunna have a shit load time in tuning....

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92 suzuki samurai, 1.3 bottom end with 8.9:1 pistons bored .020 over, 1.6 8v head, 1.6 3Tech 226 cam, 1.6 intake mani and TBI, ko3 "s" turbo


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 6:26 am 
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Location: Barbados
Nice work....Here is mine I'm building with swift GTi engine.

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