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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 2:31 am 
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I got a Mikuni-Solex carb off an '83 Mitsubishi Colt this weekend. It's similar to the Hyundai Pony carb, but with a water choke and a few other changes. Looking at the picture of the fuel lines, I take it the top one is the return and the other two are both inlets. I am guessing it it would be best two 'T' the incoming fuel line to use both inlets?

Second, the barrels on the carb are bigger, requiring that I grind the inlets on the intake to match (top picture). There won't be much material left between the two holes. Would it be best to join the openings into one unit at the narrowest part rather than leave a little sliver of aluminum between them (I'm concerned the thin aluminum portion may break and be inhaled into the engine)? Are there any downsides to that plan?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 10:03 am 
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WEBER or fuel injection

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 10:13 am 
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It does look like a Pony carb. If I recall, they bolted right on, too.
You can remove all the aluminum material. It won't make any differnece.
The top one looks like the fuel inlet to me. I'm not sure what those other two are.
Are you sure they aren't coolant lines for the choke? Jetting should be fine for your motor.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 12:13 pm 
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No, the water choke is on the other side. These two are definitely fuel lines and lead to what I believe is the accelerator pump.

I could post a few more pics when I get home if that would help.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 12:25 pm 
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gphughes1 wrote:

I could post a few more pics when I get home if that would help.


Good idea.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 6:13 pm 
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Bike carbs are better than Weber... :)

Why don't you make a spacer up, that will give you a nice transition from your carb to the holes on the manifold? You could use a simple sheet of bakelite/phenolic resin...or aluminium. Easy to work and no need to pull the manifold. Minor performance advantages, too.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 7:55 pm 
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A spacer is a good idea, but the engine is apart anyway for a total overhaul. Plus, with a spacer I'll have to use longer studs to mount the carb. If I rework the openings on the manifold I will still be able to use the stock studs. Also, there's a phenolic spacer built into the carb between the butterfly plate and the body, so I'm not too worried about heat transfer.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 9:05 pm 
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Okay, from the picture above, the following pictures move around this carburetor to the left.

A gold star to anyone who can tell me how to connect the three fuel lines. No guessing =-)


Last edited by graymeeguts on Mon Mar 14, 2005 11:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 10:34 pm 
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is it possible that two are for an evap canister and not actually fuel lines? :?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2005 11:23 pm 
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That's a good thought. I'm 99% sure these carbs have a return line, so it could well be inlet, return and evap........but which is which?

When you dismantle the accelerator pump (or what I assume is the pump) both of the lower lines feed into it through narrow orifices, which I find strange.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 2:19 am 
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OK! So I 'stumped the band'!

Learned that different versions of these carbs were used in just about every 4 cyl. Chrysler and Mitsubishi product made from the late '70's to mid '80's, so I went to the library and poured through the shop manuals. Found what I was looking for in a manual for the 1979-83 Dodge Charger and Plymouth Sapporo.

Turns out they had a system for avoiding vapour lock in these cars. They had a canister (NOT the same as the charcoal filled Evap cans) with three fuel line nipples placed horizontally at the top middle and bottom, mounted on the driver's side of the firewall. The fuel pump pumped fuel into the canister via the middle nipple, and the bottom nipple sent the fuel to the carb inlet on top of the float bowl. The TOP nipple (because heat rises) sent hot fuel and vapour to a small chamber behind the accelerator pump from where the final fuel line sent the hot fuel/vapour back to the tank via the return line.

Being that vapour lock is unlikely to be a problem in this application, I'll simply cap off the two lines to the right of the bowl.

It's an interesting bit of engineering though.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2005 5:20 pm 
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gphughes1 wrote:
A gold star to anyone who can tell me how to connect the three fuel lines. No guessing =-)



You use nice new stainless jubilee clips. Now, about that gold star...... :D

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 18, 2005 2:06 am 
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Funny.

How about I give you a gold star for humour?


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