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 Post subject: flooding with R1 Carbs
PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 1:46 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2008 4:11 am
Posts: 2
hello,
I have setup my car with yamaha R1 carb, problem is due to excess flooding, my engine was rebuilt.
i'm a street car user and occassionally drive for races. how to avoid this? is there a return line in r1 carb?
can you please help me out here?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 9:13 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 4:21 pm
Posts: 593
Location: Durham, UK
Hi,

Have you got a pressure regurator?
Bike carns are running with gravity feed so if you use pump of any sort, you will need to reduce fuel pressure.

Cheers
Atchi


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 4:09 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 6:47 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Australia
2 - 3.5 psi is all you need. Any more and you will likely experience flooding.

Atchi, go finish your Mini and stop posting on all these forums!!!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 6:51 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 4:21 pm
Posts: 593
Location: Durham, UK
Hi,

Is that you Lee!?
I'm off work but looking after my girls, so... No I can't go and finish my Mini.
I have made progress though!

Cheers
Atchi


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 1:48 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 23, 2008 3:33 am
Posts: 16
Location: Wanganui, New Zealand
not trying to make you sound daft but i must ask, are the carbs on the correct angle? dependent on the year of the r1 they have to be on approx 10-20 degree angle or they will piss out with fuel. other wise have you discovered if there is only one leaking or all of them?

if its one or two then your float levels could be wrong or your float level valve is full of crap or damaged, but if its all of them its the angle they are on as said before or its the fuel pressure, they last of the carbed r1's that ran a FP had 1.7 psi in them. ( its was put there more as a flow thing then a pressure thing )

:)


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 5:00 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2008 4:11 am
Posts: 2
the carbs are in correct positiion; But I have a major problem to address; i'm having issues getting a person who knows something about these carbs, I would need someone to help me overhaul these carbs, I'm not sure if they are correctly working. I'm a little afraid to dismantle the carbs myself.
Next thing is i'm being convinced to go for a twin carb setup; Mikuni carbs, i'm in a dilemma;
Anyways I will keep you all updated; Thanks a lot for the advice!


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:25 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 6:47 pm
Posts: 33
Location: Australia
Getting them rebuilt is not so hard - all you need to do is go visit a bike shop that deals in Yamahas.

If you mean the Mikunis that resemble the Weber/Dellorto DCOE style carbs, you will lose driveability compared to the R1 carbs. There is no constantly variable choke on the Webers.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 8:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2010 8:09 pm
Posts: 284
Location: ontario
I ran RX1 carbs(R1 engine in a snowmobile) on my toyota 4ag with boost.These carbs are very easy to tune,the floats can get out of whack but not that common a problem so if its flooding on all 4 it's not likely a float setting issue.Set the fuel pressure to 4 psi,on the bottom of the carbs is the air bleed screws-1 per carb obviously.Check those as they may have been mucked with,start with about 3 turns out from bottomed-only lightly seat them when turning in otherwise they can be damaged.If they haven't been touched there will be a factory installed plug over them that needs to be drilled out 1st,if the plugs there then they are most likely not the cause of your problem.I'd drill them however if needed to give the adjustment you will need later.
The pilots can only be had in 2 sizes(pilot controls 1/8 to about 1/4 throttle mixture) being a 15 or 17.5,I ran a 17.5 I believe which was the stock size.Don't be afraid to check those,all you have to do is remove the 4 screws that hold each fuel bowl on.Remember to drain the bowls 1st,theres an allen headed screw on the bottom of the bowl-I attached a pc of hose over the nipple and drained it into a bottle.You can do this from underneath if you have the space,mine was tight but easier than removing the carbs.The pilot jets are the tall skinny ones,the larger flat headed ones(both brass) are the mains,don't worry about those untill the flooding is resolved.
Oh yes there are 2 drains on the bottom of the carbs between the 2 pairs,those for sure need to be hooked up or it will flood as there's no place for the extra fuel to go but into the engine.
The main jet controls wide open throttle mixture and the needle and seat control the mid throttle openings with overlap between the pilots and mains

These carbs are light years ahead of any old school carb like a weber and parts are as close as your bike/sled dealer,don't give up on these just yet.
http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o50/ ... g&newest=1


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