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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 10:45 pm 
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Location: Houston, TX
I have had a lot of problems with my automatic transmission and there isn't a lot of info on here since most of you guys use 5 speeds. I've compiled what I've learned into a touble shooting guide. Most of the info comes from blue_can (thanks a million, man) or my haynes manual. When I have time, I will go back and add pictures. Hopefully the mods will make this a sticky.

DETERMINING IF THE PROBLEM IS MECHANICAL OR ELECTRICAL:

1) If transmission is making a grinding noise, problem is internal to transmission (mechanical).

2) Disconnect the white shift solenoid connector (located near the driver's side strut tower. It is usually white and contains 2 pins which connect to red and yellow wires running into the transmission) from the transmission and see if it will function correctly by manually shifting using the "L", "2" and "D" as 1st, second and third. If the transmission still does not function, the problem is internal to the transmission (mechanical).

CHECKING THE ELECTRICAL PARTS AND CONTROL SENSORS ON THE TRANSMISSION:

3) Test the shift solenoids. The connector is located near the driver's side strut tower. It is usually white and contains 2 pins which connect to red and yellow wires running into the transmission. Use a wire jumper to connect one pin and then the other (red wire first) to the positive terminal on the battery. When you alternate from one wire to the other, you should hear a click each time. If not, the shift solenoid is bad. A multimeter can also be used to check the solenoid coil's continuity.

4) Test the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
-)terminal A to terminal B should be continuous when throttle lever to stop screw clearance is 0.3mm (0.012 inches)
-)terminal A to terminal B should NOT be continuous when throttle lever to stop screw clearance is 0.9mm (0.035 inches)
If TPS is not giving these readings, loosen the screws and adjust it until it is, then retighten the screws.
At this point, the TPS should give the following readings:
-)terminal A(-), terminal D(+) should = 4.37 to 8.13k ohms in closed position (idle)
-)terminal A(-), terminal C(+) should = 240 to 1140 ohms in closed position (idle)
-)terminal A(-), terminal C(+) should = 3.17 to 6.6k ohms in WOT
If these readings can not be obtained, replace the TPS.

5) Test the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). This is the other small white plug, located near the differential and the spedometer cable on top of the transmission. It is not located in the dash cluster. This is only the case with manual transmissions. Remove the sensor from the transmission and have it bench tested.

CHECKING THE TCM:

6) Test the send to the shift solenoids (do not do this in traffic unless you have a helper to read the multimeter from the passenger seat). Run a pair of long lead wires from the connector that you unplugged from the shift solenoid connector (in step 3 above), into the passenger compartment of the car. Connect one of these wires to the + and lead on your voltmeter. Connect the - lead on your voltmeter to a good chassis ground. Place the car in "D". At idle, you should get a 12v reading. At around either 15 or 25 mph, the 12v reading shoud go to 0v. Switch to the other wire coming from the engine compartment. It should get a 12v reading at idle and a 0v readng at the other shift point. One wire will go to 0v at around 15, the other will go to 0v at around 25. If you do not get these readings, then either the wiring from the TPS to the TCM, the wiring from the VSS to the TCM, the wiring from the TCM to the tranmission or the TCM itself is bad.

7) Test the wiring from the TPS to the TCM. Connect one of the long wire leads used in step 6 to one of the wires on the plug that you unplugged from the TPS in step 4. Note the color of the wire. Find the same wire where it runs into the TCM in the engine compartment. The TCM is located between the interior fuseblock and the firewall just to the driver's side of the steering column. This wire should be continuous from the TPS to the TCM. Repeat this process for all wires from the TPS Harness to the TCM.

Test the wiring from the VSS to the TCM. Connect one of the long wire leads used in step 6 to one of the wires on the plug that you unplugged from the VSS in step 5. Note the color of the wire. Find the same wire where it runs into the TCM in the engine compartment. The TCM is located between the interior fuseblock and the firewall just to the driver's side of the steering column. This wire should be continuous from the VSS to the TCM. Repeat this process for all wires from the VSS Harness to the TCM.

9) Test the wiring from the TCM to the trasmission. Connect one of the long wire leads used in step 6 to one of the wires on the plug that you unplugged from the transmission in step 2. Note the color of the wire. Find the same wire where it runs into the TCM in the engine compartment. The TCM is located between the interior fuseblock and the firewall just to the driver's side of the steering column. This wire should be continuous from the TCM to the main transmission harness. Repeat this process for all wires from the TCM to the main transmission harness.

10) If all the above tests have passed, the the problem is likely to be the TCM itself. These units are not user servicible. Replace TCM.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 7:52 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2006 11:43 am
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Location: Kingston
I recently disconnected my accelerator cable from my car and since re-installation, i've noticed 2 problems... sometimes when about 3/4 - 1/2 way on the throttle it kicks into a lower gear just briefly then upshifts...

2nd problem... if i floor it... or gradually depress til floored... 1st & 2nd shifts okay... but when the last gear comes in... it's like there's no more power... the car will barely climb past 25MPH...

for the first problem... i suspect accelerator cable adjustment... as i didnt mark the position before removing it (stupid i kno)... could it be anything else...

and for the 2nd... could that be more of an engine problem... perhaps the carb needs an overhaul... saw gas deposits on the face and in the air cleaner assembly... any ideas??

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 11:10 pm 
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Location: Houston, TX
Stanno wrote:
I recently disconnected my accelerator cable from my car and since re-installation, i've noticed 2 problems... sometimes when about 3/4 - 1/2 way on the throttle it kicks into a lower gear just briefly then upshifts...

Take it out somewhere that is fairly free of traffic and recreate this problem. Note whether it does this at all RPM's or only at a certain number. Get back to me.

Stanno wrote:
2nd problem... if i floor it... or gradually depress til floored... 1st & 2nd shifts okay... but when the last gear comes in... it's like there's no more power... the car will barely climb past 25MPH...

You should be in second gear to at least 30 mph. It should'nt be shifting to 3rd till around 35ish... Not sure what to make of this. If you don't "floor it" just get firmly on the gas, what speed/rpms are your shift points?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2008 4:41 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2006 11:43 am
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Location: Kingston
bigbear1969 wrote:
Stanno wrote:
I recently disconnected my accelerator cable from my car and since re-installation, i've noticed 2 problems... sometimes when about 3/4 - 1/2 way on the throttle it kicks into a lower gear just briefly then upshifts...

Take it out somewhere that is fairly free of traffic and recreate this problem. Note whether it does this at all RPM's or only at a certain number. Get back to me.

Stanno wrote:
2nd problem... if i floor it... or gradually depress til floored... 1st & 2nd shifts okay... but when the last gear comes in... it's like there's no more power... the car will barely climb past 25MPH...

You should be in second gear to at least 30 mph. It should'nt be shifting to 3rd till around 35ish... Not sure what to make of this. If you don't "floor it" just get firmly on the gas, what speed/rpms are your shift points?



Okay i found that i had too much free play in the cable... readjusted it and the 1st problem has dissapeared...

Altho i can't recall exactly @ what rpm right now (but i'm sure none past 3000rpm)... the gears shift quite closely together and then the last gear (3rd) just revs from about 3000rpm all the way ... i assume... til the car runs out of breath...

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 7:47 am 
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Location: Kingston
Confirmed...

1st shifts - 2nd @ about 2000rpm, then 2nd - 3rd @ 2500rpm...

weird...

Could a new cable resolve this problem...

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 8:11 am 
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Location: Kingston
Also ... if i brake upon aproaching a corner, the tranny will stay in one gear when accelerating out... it wont change out of that gear ...unless i ease off the throttle... then it seems to go into an overdrive gear or something...(feels as tho the engine spins @ the same speed as the wheels) ...

tried my best to describe exaclty what i observed... hope this is an be a simple enough fix...

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 8:10 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2006 11:43 am
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Location: Kingston
Initially i thought this prob was being caused by faulty accelerator cable... but after some simple tests i ran... i see it actually could be an engine system problem as well...

when the gas is floored... the car labours...

if i manually shift to 2 or L ... the car downshifts... but the power is so small it hardly makes a difference...

Yesterday... by means of manual shifting we barely got it past 35 goin 40 with the gas floored... but needless to say, we can't drive it like this...

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 12:33 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 1:55 pm
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Location: Houston, TX
Sorry I've taken so long to get back to you. I've had some medical problems and been off the board for a while. I'm leaning toward your problem being in the throttle position sensor. Have you tested it as described in the original post?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 11:59 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2006 11:43 am
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Location: Kingston
have'nt been in here a while either.

it was not tranny related, i had couple valves stucked. did a engine overhaul and it's better than ever now.

Thanks anyway.

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SUZUKI ... The Joy of Driving, The Thrill of Victory


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 12:30 am 
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Location: Houston, TX
Glad to hear it! :lol: :lol: :lol:


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 11:09 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2010 12:05 am
Posts: 91
Location: Jamaica
Does anyone have the information related to a 1993 1.0L CARB suzuki A/T (again not Fuel Injection). Does it use a TCM? I can only find next to the steering column a unit call controller assembly.

Thanks

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