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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 12:21 am 
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Posts: 87
Location: AZ
t3 ragtop wrote:
we do it right 'cause we do it twice. :wink: :-P :lol:


Hopefully there's nothing that rhymes with thrice :wink: . Well with take 2 reassembly, I didn't want to deal with the brake kit yellow spring as it was too hard to move, so I redid it 1st with an Ace Hardware $.80 spring closest to the OEM size&length, that when installed the shaft moved through the gears by hand as easily as with the broke spring. So I went back to Ace and got a bit longer and slightly stiffer one (Ace #91 spring). This was somewhere between the two and made it tough to move by hand, but easy to do with leverage (screwdriver or extension). Installed this &
Attachment:
Acespring#91.jpg
Acespring#91.jpg [ 74.87 KIB | Viewed 1504 times ]


This is my spring and I'm sticking with it. Everything is now put back together excepts the left 5th gear box. :arrow: :blackeye:


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2013 12:05 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1170
Location: So Cal, USA
Looks good.
Take the time and do it right.
I had lots of fubars doing mine, also with the LSD mod.
That took a lot of patience and I had to let it sit for a while
and come back with a fresh attitude.
I finally just got my new Metric Snap Ring retainer for
5th gear synchro, I can finally bolt on the end cap.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 10:27 am 
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Posts: 87
Location: AZ
JamalSpelling wrote:
Looks good.

I finally just got my new Metric Snap Ring retainer for
5th gear synchro, I can finally bolt on the end cap.


That's got to feel good. I just bolted down mine yesterday, after having the input 4th & fifth assembly slip from my hand and the keys come out, I then had to take it all apart & figure how it goes back together. How the keys are inserted was the hardest thing to find out. The FSM gave me no clue that I could find, so by trial and error & looking very closely at Phil & Ed's dissassembly pictures found out the notched (valley) part of the keys go inwards toward the center hole (the plateau part of the keys go outward). You can put your hand flat over the 4th gear to hold the keys in place while pressing it into the hub.

I couldn't find the 250 N-Buna O-rings here in AZ (no Marshalls). Went biking to Loews, Home Depot, Ace & a plumbing store and the best I could find was a 2 1/8" which was too small. A local Lowry's store had 2 3/16 which matched up well. The gasket from my tranny was flat (either by design or from years of use). Found a 2 3/16" quad-ring that was flat on both sides which I bought for $2. took it home and it fit. Looked up what a quad-ring is and became a convert (it better not leak)
Attachment:
QuadRing.jpg
QuadRing.jpg [ 157.46 KIB | Viewed 1486 times ]


So rebuild complete and not sure what else I can do except install & test
Attachment:
Reassembled2.jpg
Reassembled2.jpg [ 85.69 KIB | Viewed 1486 times ]


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 7:21 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
I would make sure the gear lubes flowing before you
go driving around on it.

I think I've read here on TS to leave it on jack stands and
run it gently a bit through the gears.

Also seen a video where a guy had a drill on the input shaft
and ran it through the gears on a bench. I think I'll try mine
that way with some fluid in it, probably enough till it starts
coming out the axle seals. Probably a good way to check
for case leaks too letting it sit overnight.

Good luck!


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 3:02 pm 
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Posts: 87
Location: AZ
JamalSpelling wrote:
I would make sure the gear lubes flowing before you
go driving around on it.

I think I've read here on TS to leave it on jack stands and
run it gently a bit through the gears.

Also seen a video where a guy had a drill on the input shaft
and ran it through the gears on a bench. I think I'll try mine
that way with some fluid in it, probably enough till it starts
coming out the axle seals. Probably a good way to check
for case leaks too letting it sit overnight.

Good luck!

Thanks and good luck to yourself as well! Yeah I saw that about leaving up on jacks. As far as testing for leaks I decided to just go for it. Not sure I could deal with a leak in a major area w'out a nervous breakdpwn =) . I sealed the case parts carefully. If it leaks again than I'll need a pro anyway. So trying to install the tranny has been very difficult. I'm limited in equipment (one scissor jack), and doing it by myself, but basically have it hanging off a 2x8 board over the car. I get within mm of the four bolts being correct but it will not go in. The clutch is centered too. Are there any tricks as far as angling (from above or below) to the engine? I've been trying it straight on. Never done it before and been at it two days.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 3:29 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 24, 2004 9:48 am
Posts: 725
Location: Winnipeg
I keep a pair of old axle ends around with the snap ring removed, and stick them into the diff to turn it back and forth a bit while putting it together...just to line the spline up. Did you use a centering tool to center the clutch? I've found that they are fussy for near perfect clutch alignment with the roller pilot bearings nice fit onto the input shaft, so I use an old cut off input shaft to center the clutch.
...how can you tell I've changed out a few clutches and gearboxes? I call them glass gearboxes!


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 4:00 pm 
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Posts: 87
Location: AZ
Mr.Pipe wrote:
I keep a pair of old axle ends around with the snap ring removed, and stick them into the diff to turn it back and forth a bit while putting it together...just to line the spline up. Did you use a centering tool to center the clutch? I've found that they are fussy for near perfect clutch alignment with the roller pilot bearings nice fit onto the input shaft, so I use an old cut off input shaft to center the clutch.
...how can you tell I've changed out a few clutches and gearboxes? I call them glass gearboxes!


Yeah I used the centering tool that came with the clutch kit. The only input shaft I have is what's on my tranny. Rotating the fly wheel via the engine is the other side of the half shaft yes? So is the tranny suppose to just slip in with ease or does it need to be pushed in with some force? Does the motor need to be un mounted or loosened at all?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 7:51 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
You have to get the angle just right for it to
'slip in'. Most often it will catch on the splines,
don't force it, just rotate the crankshaft a bit.
Depending on how the engine is cocked, you may
want to slip a jack under one side (use a block of wood
as a buffer) to get it more or less level.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 1:07 pm 
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Posts: 87
Location: AZ
JamalSpelling wrote:
You have to get the angle just right for it to
'slip in'. Most often it will catch on the splines,
don't force it, just rotate the crankshaft a bit.
Depending on how the engine is cocked, you may
want to slip a jack under one side (use a block of wood
as a buffer) to get it more or less level.


Thanks again Jamal!! Well I spent all day Sat. taking down my caveman hoist (interlinked snow chains attached to a board), redid the clutch centering w/out the tool( kept sticking in the clutch i.e. single use only? :?: ), removed the clutch arm & re-hoisted & tried to line up again lifting from below, twisting from above, pushing from the back & moving the cam & still and it was the same frustration, except it got to me this time, when the starter gasket fell off and it had this weird triangle edge that I couldn't figure which way it went (i.e. adult temper tantrum; soul searching, threatening the car with an Exorcist etc). So I got a big flat top rock, place it underneath to support the tranny and removed the snow chain sling, Resigned for the night. Tranny wrestling day 4: I just figured I try w/out the chains moving atop the rock support. After 3 tries I got one bolt in the top right started and then all the rest grabbed & I tightened up the last 1/4 " gap distributing wrench turns from bolt to bolt. I'm thinking that the re-machined pilot bushing made this tougher. When I first got it back from the shop It wasn't easy to get the bearing on with it in my hand. Hope it's all correct as I doubt I can take much more of this abuse.

Attachment:
Caveman hoist.jpg
Caveman hoist.jpg [ 111.47 KIB | Viewed 1437 times ]


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2013 8:34 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
My 1st or 2nd time in the driveway took me 3 days
and several time outs to get it in.
Now I can practically do it with my eyes closed.
Good job.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 6:24 pm 
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Location: AZ
JamalSpelling wrote:
My 1st or 2nd time in the driveway took me 3 days
and several time outs to get it in.
Now I can practically do it with my eyes closed.
Good job.


Yeah I can see the value of experience, even after my one try. Not sure I would wanna go through this again though. So I finally got everything back together, though my memory on some parts were a little fuzzy. Filled it with Mobil-1 5w-30 in your honor Jamal :D and started it up on the jacks and anxiously went through all the gears. No leaks found. Put on the tires and went for a 4 mile cruise and my Sprint rides again!! The only thing I couldn't remember is where to place a small wire that comes of the negative battery post, part of the bigger neg. cable?
Attachment:
2bdbatwire.jpg
2bdbatwire.jpg [ 91.22 KIB | Viewed 1411 times ]


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 8:24 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
That wire goes on the front crossmember/upper radiator support.
There should be an empty bolt right there hole there for that ground


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 8:58 pm 
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Location: AZ
JamalSpelling wrote:
That wire goes on the front crossmember/upper radiator support.
There should be an empty bolt right there hole there for that ground

Thanks again Jamal! Not sure I would of made it through all this w/out your help. Also just got back from more testing & the stiffer spring mod. cut the side to side (left right) motion of the stick shift in half. It's perfect now!


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