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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 9:23 am 
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So I killed my clutch a couple of days ago (it was in little pieces when I removed the gearbox). I've ordered a clutch kit at NAPA, because it gets here faster, but I'm not sure what to do about the flywheel. I don't trust the local shops and they are also very expensive...
I've read about people just using sand-paper, or emery cloth with brake cleaner to remove the glaze. What do you guys think, could I get away with it with one of those methods?

PS: I'll remove the flywheel to check if it's warped, but though visual inspection I recall seeing some glaze and little black spots...no grooves though. I never had the clutch slipping before either.

I'll upload pictures tomorrow

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 10:54 am 
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These are the pictures of the flywheel that's currently on the car. I'll take pics of the spare later cuz I don't have it here...
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Attachment:
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edit: I'll check the run-out according to manual, but wanted to get your opinions as well cuz there are mixed opinions on the web.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 1:10 pm 
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i hadnt resurfaced mine when i changed the clutch. i just hit it with some fine sandpaper and that was it. and the clutch grabs just fine.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 3:23 pm 
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i have mixed thoughts on flywheel reconditioning. some i have cleaned up with a sanding block and scotchbrite pads and others i have ground.

the black spots (and blue) are hot spots. those are usually high. if i had that flywheel i'd run it up to the joint and clutch shop and have it blanchard ground. it's easy for me, though. i can drop off a flywheel after work and pick it up the next day after work.

the best thing would be to have a machine shop take as much off the flywheel on a mill and/ or lathe as they could, surface grind the swept area, and zero balance it. that has made a huge difference on my twincam engine. i'll do all of my engines like that from now on.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 5:54 pm 
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Well I was hoping to get away with it, as the cheapest shop is charging me $70 just to resurface the flywheel (balancing not included). Here's a picture of the spare... It only has surface rust. What do you guys think?


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IMG-20131025-00368.jpg
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 12:29 am 
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Ideally for sure you probably should resurface. In the real world, it will work just fine as is. It is good to scuff and clean it up as best as you can, but I can assure you I've done lots and lots without resurfacing and they grab strongly and smoothly. Experience shows it works just fine, but textbook perfect repair to close to new specs would have you resurface or replace. Make a call and run with it!

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1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 8:08 am 
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i have as an example for myself, the quick and dirty clutch replacement on my daily driver gt that just got it's flywheel cleaned up with 100 grit emery cloth and a scotchbrite pad and the complete reconditioning and lightening of the flywheel in my red vert. both were done this past summer.

the white gt has a little judder when i operate the clutch, the twincam vert's clutch is always silky smooth as it engages. they have different manufacturers of the clutch components which may account for some of the difference in feel but i'd be more inclined to believe that it's a matter of flywheel preparation. :wink:

i've done a number of clutch replacements on the fly without flywheel servicing and they have worked. still, given enough time to have the flywheel serviced, i'd prefer to go that route.

now i try to keep a spare flywheel around the garage so that i can more easily line up parts for a clutch job. having all the parts on hand makes the actual work go better. i make sure i have a prepared flywheel, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch disc and pressure plate in hand before i start the job. i also try to have a new clutch cable ready and lubricated for the day of the work.

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

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My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
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SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 10:56 am 
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Location: Alberta, Canada
Excellent suggestion on the clutch cable. Took me years before I learned how much extra resistance that short little cable can add to the pedal effort when it dries up. Cheap and easy, well worth grabbing one!

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1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2013 7:55 pm 
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The spare flywheel is not as bad as it looks, it's better than the one that was in the car that's for sure, I'll get it clean tomorrow with brake cleaner. Today I replaced the rear main seal, pilot bearing and oil pan gasket. Everything is ready for the clutch kit to arrive this week... I'll update with whatever happens after the clutch is installed, but I'm pretty sure it'll be just fine. Thank you all for your comments, if I had the cash I would have brought it to the machine shop and need my car back as soon as possible cuz my dad's V6 BMW is killing me with the fuel-consumption!
Btw here's how I got the flywheel-bolts off, thought I would share...


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IMG-20131026-00383.jpg
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 10:39 am 
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Clutch kit came today, but without an alignment tool! And I can't find one anywhere. So now I'm with this dilemma: I can go and pay off the clutch kit at NAPA without the tool and hope I can get the gearbox aligned or I can order another one and wait 3 more weeks...

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 11:09 am 
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Most times, but not always....you can center the disc by lightly turning in the pressure plate bolts to just hold the disc, then stick your fingers in the three slots in the outside of the pressure plate, and feel when the disc is centered. BUT, most Suzuki pressure plates don't have finger room for this. Others will try to assemble it with the pressure plate bolts only snug enough to hold the disc from falling down, and then wiggle the trans into place, but most Suzuki bellhousings would not allow you to tighten after....the tool is best for sure, but when in a bind, other methods might work too.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 12:04 pm 
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I've done it before in a pinch with an appropriately sized finger stuffed through the disc hub and wedged into the pilot bearing.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 7:27 pm 
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Good to know... I'll see what I can do cuz I'm totally not waiting 3 more weeks just because of that stupid tool.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 8:31 pm 
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Made this tool on the lathe this afternoon. It took me like 15 minutes... I suppose it'll make mi life easier.


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1993 Swift Gti
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 10:40 am 
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Got everything back together yesterday... it took me like 30 min to get the gearbox installed (thanks to the alignment tool I made). t's unbelievable how smooth and soft the clutch is now.
I'll take the car to the track after running in the clutch and let you guys know if there's any slip or whatever. Thank you all for the help.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 12:50 pm 
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That tool that you made is probably a lot closer tolerances than the cheap plastic one that comes in the clutch kits. The plastic tool doesn't even come close to getting it centered. You have to wiggle it up and down and sideways to guess where the center is. I'm going to get one made like you have.


Ken.........


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 1:37 pm 
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91 ragtop wrote:
That tool that you made is probably a lot closer tolerances than the cheap plastic one that comes in the clutch kits. The plastic tool doesn't even come close to getting it centered. You have to wiggle it up and down and sideways to guess where the center is. I'm going to get one made like you have.


Ken.........

I haven't seen the cheap plastic one, but this one worked really well. You should do it... totally worth it.

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