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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 8:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2013 10:45 am
Posts: 21
Location: westville nj
Anyone have a good site or video on how to replace a clutch on a sprint turbo. I checked U Tube. Couldn't find anything. Thanks MIke .


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 9:39 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:28 pm
Posts: 1175
Location: So Cal, USA
Get yourself a good clutch kit, a stock Exedy kit makes a fine replacement,
be sure to get replacement throw out & pilot bearings as well.
At the very least, you should have a set of axle shaft seals ready
for replacement and the gear lube of you choice along with an
assortment of cotter pins and replacement o-ring for the coolant tube.
And you should plan on flushing the radiator (or at least drain/refil) and replacing
the thermostat/gasket and any weak spots/hoses/clamps.
Be sure you have the proper tools, including a torque wrench.

It's best to have a lift, but I bet you'll be doing this in the driveway.
It's nice to have a huge sheet of cardboard to put under the front of the car.

I'm going from memory here, forgive me if I left out any steps.



1)secure parking brake, crack front wheel nuts loose
2)raise car and support on jack stands, remove front wheels
3)separate tie rod ends from steering knuckle
4)separate lower control arms from steering knuckle
5)disconnect the battery and the ground cable from transmission
5)drain the transmission and replace plug
6)drain the radiator and replace plug
7)remove intercooler with hoses attached
8 ) remove intercooler bracket
9)remove speedometer cable
10)disconnect starter cable & 2 bolts & remove
starter paying attention to correct placement
of large starter shim. Note position for reinstallation.
11)remove the wire (from the noise filter on coil housing) from
the wire harness cable clip on top of the transmission.
(on some it is bolted, on some it is a spade connector)
then remove the clutch cable from the actuator arm noting
correct placement of hardware/springs if present and don't
lose the cable pivot that will drop out of the lever arm.
12)unbolt 3 transmission mounts. (lower mount and 2 torque struts)
unbolt the shifter linkage from the transmission shifter shaft
and also the torque bar. Note postition/direction of bolt
for reinstallation. Remove axles from transmission, you can
pop them out with a large screwdriver or small pry bar.
you will need to pull the steering knuckles out and away
and may want to secure the axles out of the way with a bungee
or wire. if you choose to remove them entirely first,
do this with step 1 by cracking the nut loose so you
can remove the axles at this point, but you will need to
have a new set of axle nuts on hand, as they are not
reuseable.
13)at this point you will determine if you are removing the transmission
by dropping it out of the engine compartment if car is on a lift
or pulling it out of from the top if the car is on the ground.
14)if you are dropping it you will need to remove the lower support
by unstaking the nut keepers and removing 2 front and 2 rear bolts,
if you are pulling it out from above you will want to remove
upper rad hose, lower rad hose/coolant tube and maybe the radiator.
15)remove the bolts and 1 nut securing the transmission to the
engine block. you will need to rotate the coolant tube up
so you can clear the top bolt and pull it out, otherwise
it hits the coolant line nipple. it's preferred to just remove
the tube from the back of the water pump, use a scotch brite
pad to remove rust on the recieving end of the water pump
before reinstalling, and be sure to clean up the coolant tube and
replace o ring with the proper size or you it will leak once
you break the seal. this is important to deal with now while
it's accessible.
16)you should be able to separate the transmission. you will need to
pull the lower mount bolt out of the lower support to move the
transmission out. with the radiator removed and the upper rad
mount (engine bay) crossmember loosened and pulled aside you
should have enough room and leverage to pull the tranny up and out.
a floor jack is also helpful, or bottle jack and block of wood.
don't be afraid to remove the battery if you want more room.
17)once you have the transmission out, you may want to fully degrease
it & replace the axle seals. Replace the throw out bearing by
removing the small pin on one side, you can grip it with a
diagonal cutters and pull it out. do not try to pry the bearing
over the pin, it is brittle and you will break it.
apply grease to the inside sliding surface of the bearing
before installing, you may want to try to lube the clutch lever
as well at the 2 points where it pivots in the case, and apply
a generous but sparing amount of grease on the input shaft splines.
18)remove the flywheel to have it resurfaced. using a socket, tap
out the pilot bearing and install a new one before reinstalling
the flywheel. torque bolts to specification. to keep the motor
from rotating you can use a 17mm socket on a breaker bar on
the crankshaft pulley bolt.
if you choose not to remove the flywheel, hit it with a 3m pad
on a high speed angle diegrinder or some fine sandpaper on
a sanding block. if you want to remove the pilot bearing with
the flywheel installed pack stuff some bread or grease through
the small hole and then use a punch in the center, it will
compress and push the bearing out from behind.
19)using a centering tool with splines (they usually come with a
clutch kit) insert it in the clutch center and in the pilot
bushing hole to center the clutch disc as you bolt the
pressure plate over the disc onto the flywheel. torque
all bolts to spec.
20)hardest part is mating the transmission to the block.
sometimes it goes in first try, sometimes not.
the key is to get the angle right, a jack helps sometimes
under the oil pan as well using a block of wood as a buffer.
if you think it's close but won't go in, rotate the crankshaft
a bit, that will help to line up the splines.
21)reinstall everything in reverse order. torque all bolts to spec
like the tie rods and lower control arm bolts and be sure to
use new cotter pins. double check all steps.
fill transmission with new lube (carefull not to overfill
it slightly less than 3 qts)


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2013 10:55 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2013 10:45 am
Posts: 21
Location: westville nj
:D Thanks for the info :P


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