TeamSwift

Home of the Suzuki mini-compacts ! Your Home for all things Suzuki Swift, Geo Metro, Holden Barina, Chevy Sprint, Pontiac Firefly, and Suzuki Cultus. TeamSwift is a technical performance oriented community!
It is currently Tue Oct 24, 2017 1:58 am

Underbody braces, turbos and more!

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 32 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Auto 3pd dead at 198k
PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 2:22 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:44 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Tacoma, WA
Well sadly it seems the transmission in my 93 Metro kicked he bucket today, more or less. I haven't looked into the symptoms or had a shop look at it, but I suspect it's the pump. It seems to be losing pressure despite a proper fluid level. It slips at times, or completely disengages. Turning off the car for 10 seconds or so then starting it up again and throwing it into gear gets it going again until the pressure (engine RPMs) drops too much. Then the engine just revs but the car won't go until I shut it down and start it again. It's obviously not an engine problem. When it gets that way, it won't engage any gear at all.

*sigh* I expected it more or less. I'm just glad it decided to today instead of 2 days ago when I was on the highway 40 miles away.

So now I need to find a reasonably priced shop to either rebuild this one or drop in a good used one.

EDIT: I am starting to suspect the torque converter due to noise, especially loud in Neutral but not there (or noticable) in Park. In R/D/2/1 it's there but not as much. Perhaps the impeller (pump) bit the dust?

Fluid level shows rather high, even running, as if barely pully or almost not at all pumping the fluid.

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 12:11 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:44 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Tacoma, WA
On Wednesday I had it towed to a transmission shop I decided on who quoted $975 complete rebuild (plus tax) with free towing. Got it there and signed the paper agreeing to that if that's what they found it needed. The mechanic said it sounded like it may have been a clogged filter and so he'd check that first and I said ok.

He called me Thursday afternoon to say he "serviced" the transmission (which i assume means filter+fluid) and that it didn't solve the problem, which I figured was the case. Despite me already agreeing on paper, he asked if was okay to go ahead and pull it out for further inspection and I agreed. At the very least the torque converter and/or pump went bad.

At 198k on a 3 speed auto, I think I just want it totally rebuilt even with the $1067.63 repair cost (with tax). I don't want to keep sending it to the shop trying to patch up an old high mileage transmission.

Maybe I'll hear back Monday or Tuesday, if he hasn't just realized it needs a complete overhaul like I suspect is best at it's age and miles. He may have had to order the kit so I figure that'll take a day or two for him to get at least.

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 11:20 am 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Alberta, Canada
I think thats a good choice, and you won't regret it. I run a shop and that's a really good price. It's quite easy to hit $500 bill for labour for just removing and installing a trans. Even as easy as these cars are the auto trannies take a bit of time to get in and out. Id be curious to find out what he finds in there. I've fixed most every component of these cars except the inner workings of the auto trans. Hopefully its just a basic seal/clutch issue and rebuild goes smoothly and cost stays at or close to estimate.

_________________
1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 2:34 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:44 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Tacoma, WA
It's a small, no-frills shop in an older light to medium industrial area of town but that's how they keep costs down in general. There are other shops around but their costs were $500+ more. Aamco was high pressure, even over the phone. I dislike they charge you more for better/longer warranty.

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 10:24 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:27 pm
Posts: 824
Location: walsh,alberta,canada
I am at a stand-still with my auto metro as well....the 1st trans I replaced had the diff pin coming out, wore a hole thru the side of the case, was leaking fluid but still shifted fine.....pulled that one and installed a used one, that one is now buggered up, diff is locked so I have a full-time posi......and the motor dropped a valve , so its parked for now.
seriously debating a 5 speed swap, I have 2 donor cars, but no decent motors.
my wife prefers the auto in her vert, but either auto or 5 spd is good for me.
with all the other work you have done to the car, this could be a make it or break it situation.
for me, my metro was a daily driver, lots of things repaired or new on the car. the body is straight, new glass, tires, brakes, stereo, etc.
for me the 5 spd is free, but I need to modify a few things to make it fit. then I need to rebuild a motor.
good luck!

_________________
89 1.0 turbo firefly
2"exhaust,no cats/resonator
3 tech 6*gear
3 tech turbo grind cam
3 tech cylinder head/w/port,polish,blend,oversized s/s valves
gti brake swap
89 white gti twincam....need I say more?
92 metro aka ''blue lump of coal''
92 white metro lsi vert
91 blue chevy sprint (gas sipper)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 12:55 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2012 12:58 pm
Posts: 85
Location: Millsap, TX
Over a Grand?? Ouch!!! Just my humble opinion, it would have been a good idea to contact fainya. He does LOTS more than just distributors and five speeds. He did the Automatic that's now in my '92 red Metro 'Vert., and it's not a bad idea to go 4.10 gears.

_________________
'91 Metro 3 cyl. 'vert. 5 speed beater, built as a fun daily driver.
'92 Metro 3 cyl. 'vert. Auto, all factory clean.
'92 Metro 3 cyl. 'vert. 5 speed beater back up.
'91 'vert with factory 160 hp 13B two rotor, Very clean RX-7.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 1:00 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Alberta, Canada
Blueturbofly, you ever in my neck of the woods, or even Calgary? I ask because I have a trans that might be the ticket for you. I was at pick pull ages ago and there was a fly there that was mint with a crashed back corner. Had 93km on it. I pulled trans because I had a customer needing one, who unfortunately never came through with job. Id love to see it go to a good home, and don't know when I'll next run into a car needing a trans. Let me know if you might be interested in it. I have $150 and some time into it, be happy to recover my $150 if I could!

_________________
1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 1:20 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Aug 04, 2009 9:27 pm
Posts: 824
Location: walsh,alberta,canada
I am in Red Deer every October for a doctors appt. (usually, but this last year it was earlier) that's a little closer to you isn't it?
sometimes work sends me to Calgary, sometimes Red Deer on a parts run but that is usually very short notice....and when they do I try to squeeze a few hours in at the pic-a part on Glenmore trail.....you never know what you may find....
unless cubey wants it. the shipping might be terrible though.
I will pm you so as to not clog up this thread.

_________________
89 1.0 turbo firefly
2"exhaust,no cats/resonator
3 tech 6*gear
3 tech turbo grind cam
3 tech cylinder head/w/port,polish,blend,oversized s/s valves
gti brake swap
89 white gti twincam....need I say more?
92 metro aka ''blue lump of coal''
92 white metro lsi vert
91 blue chevy sprint (gas sipper)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 1:25 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Alberta, Canada
Go Kart'er wrote:
Over a Grand?? Ouch!!! Just my humble opinion, it would have been a good idea to contact fainya. He does LOTS more than just distributors and five speeds. He did the Automatic that's now in my '92 red Metro 'Vert., and it's not a bad idea to go 4.10 gears.


Book time to r&r trans is 5.1hrs, r&r and recondition is 9.3(warranty time which is always very low), and 13.1hrs normal time. Shop rates around here are minimum $100/hr. At some point even with cheaper cars, some amount of money has to be spent. It's not realistic to expect shops to work for nothing.

_________________
1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 1:27 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Alberta, Canada
Shipping trannies around can't be cheap, I'm sure it wouldn't be worth it to send it to cubey. To heavy!

_________________
1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 3:27 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:44 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Tacoma, WA
Messing with a used transmission or something bought online doesn't save much/any money. I still have to pay a shop swap it for me. Plus they won't warranty any of the work!

I'm okay with paying just under $1100 for a new trans.

I paid $1200 for the car itself
$125 for a set of 4 tires already mounted on 12" rims (sold the bald tires w/ 12" rims it had to somebody for cheap)
$120'ish (parts & labor) for a high quality Japanese made thermostat from Napa
$25 (or so) for Hatchback lift supports
$10'ish for a driver's side door handle (inside)

and now just under $1100 for a complete rebuild transmission.

So I have a good MPG car with a brand new transmission and other parts for about $2500. That might seem expensive for a Metro but... not really when you consider that the typical $1500 Metro has had the wheels driven off nearly.

And only a few months back the car got rear ended and was totally repaired by a body shop to the tune of $1500 that the insurance of the guy who hit me paid without question.

So really, the car has about $4000 in it since I bought it including repairs paid that insurance company haha.

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 11:36 am 
Offline

Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2012 12:58 pm
Posts: 85
Location: Millsap, TX
@codyb76, do me a favor, please. Contact fainya and ask for his credentials, and ask what he'd charge, and what he'd do.
Then ask the Uncles and others about his work, prices, and quality.
There are 'shops', and there are people that REALLY know what they are doing and take pride in it.
I'm only thinking of personal experiance.

_________________
'91 Metro 3 cyl. 'vert. 5 speed beater, built as a fun daily driver.
'92 Metro 3 cyl. 'vert. Auto, all factory clean.
'92 Metro 3 cyl. 'vert. 5 speed beater back up.
'91 'vert with factory 160 hp 13B two rotor, Very clean RX-7.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 2:14 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Alberta, Canada
I own and run one of those "shops". I have owned and fixed up over 500 swifts, metros, sprints, fireflies, I'm not talking from zero experience. I have no need to contact fainya, nor uncles shop. That's the legwork the op has done, and seems confident to run with. An experienced transmission shop is not going to have a problem rebuilding a basic 3spd transaxle, and then standing behind it. I never understand why shops need to get critized for simply giving a more than fair quote on a job, yet somehow you have decided that they are likely incompetent because they fix cars other than the car mentioned in this post. I maybe wrong, time will tell, but my hunch is that the op will be happy with what he gets. Small shops are more likely to take pride in what they do.
I'm sure fainya does a perfect job on each component he repairs, but also can tell that the op has made a decision that suits his needs. He's found a place that he trusts, and is local which makes sense for him. It doesn't make sense to pay someone to pull his trans, ship it, wait for another, get it shipped back, and pay to install it. At that point if there is any issue whatsoever he will be paying the shop to remove it or repair it. For people pulling and installing their own trannies, fainya is a perfect option. The op clearly isn't interested in that.

_________________
1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 7:23 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2014 10:10 am
Posts: 341
Location: Palm Springs, Calif
Go Kart'er wrote:
@codyb76, do me a favor, please. Contact fainya and ask for his credentials, and ask what he'd charge, and what he'd do.
Then ask the Uncles and others about his work, prices, and quality.
There are 'shops', and there are people that REALLY know what they are doing and take pride in it.
I'm only thinking of personal experiance.

It is nice to know that you are satisfied with the automatic transmission from fainya that he installed in your car.
What was the problem with your automatic transmission to begin with?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 8:18 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2012 12:58 pm
Posts: 85
Location: Millsap, TX
It had 4.40 gears. I don't like buzzing my engine around 4,300 rpm just to go down the road at 65 mph.
With the 4.10 set now in it, it's closer to 3,900 rpm. Better mileage and IMHO, the engine should live longer while still in the power band. I'm wondering if it would still be comfortable with 3.79?

_________________
'91 Metro 3 cyl. 'vert. 5 speed beater, built as a fun daily driver.
'92 Metro 3 cyl. 'vert. Auto, all factory clean.
'92 Metro 3 cyl. 'vert. 5 speed beater back up.
'91 'vert with factory 160 hp 13B two rotor, Very clean RX-7.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 8:00 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:44 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Tacoma, WA
Wise choice in the shop I picked? Maybe.. maybe not. :?

They said they are having trouble staring the engine now. They said it acted "flooded". I asked "How can you flood fuel injected? I never had any problems starting it before" and they said well they are looking into it and will call me once they figure it out and get it going right again. :|

I went past on the bus twice (to/from a place I went) and they had the hood up, sitting out in the rain for an hour or more. :WTF:

When I mentioned that they said "Yeah, we have the battery out, charging up" and they'd go out and close it right away.

I guess the battery ran down but I can't blame them for that really. I did have to start the engine many, many times with very little driving to get it home so it could be I ran it down some and then they ran it down to dead. Plus it sat around for 10 days as well.

Maybe the low battery was just the problem.. or maybe they forgot a wire harness or something.

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 3:36 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:44 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Tacoma, WA
They said it was the distributor ground wire they forgot to reconnect and said it was all well and good.

At first it appeared that way until I was driving around testing it out (after I paid..) and it began shaking badly at idle as if it was dying or idling very rough. I took it back and then it wouldn't start at the shop.

Also it seemed like taking off from stops it felt like it had no first gear unless I shift manually into "L" and then it gives it which I mentioned. (Actually, that's something else now I realize, I'll mention below)

They fiddled with it some then test drove it again. They said my timing belt sounds like it's stretched because it's lacking power and they had to purposely misadjust the distributor to make it idle better. They also said first gear is there and there's nothing wrong.

However, it DOES seem to go into second gear when you first throw it into D. You have to either start off from a stop in second gear or manually shift into L to get going then throw it back into D. Then it seems ok from then on.

I just called and explained the symptom and they said to bring it back and we'd both go for a drive so i can show him what I mean.

I got my receipt showing 1 year labor warranty so yeah.. haha.

If there's really engine problems (timing belt?) I don't expect them to fix it but the gearing seems screwy, which *is* their issue to fix.

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 5:02 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Alberta, Canada
I may land up eating my words here. Sorry to hear that you are experiencing issues now. The symptom of starting out in second sure sounds like its related to the shift solenoids either not connected, or one has failed. Fortunately this really shouldn't be hard for them to confirm and diagnose. This of course really should have been noticed and dealt with after it's first test drive by a tech, but so be it. I sure hope to hear that they take care of you, as far as the trans operation, that really should be in their hands as they dealt with it. I'm sure they'll check it, but there is one small two wire connector on the drivers rear corner of trans that may have gotten missed, that would make trans work but only fully manually.
Now on the initial flooding/no start after ten days, followed by rough running, that may not be related. I hate to say it, but that's classic geo metro g10 behavior when the valves start to burn/fail. Compression drops and causes them to be hard starting, often ok with daily use but randomly they just refuse to initially fire due to lack of compression, once fired and warmed up a bit they often run decently. That was my first thought when I saw your post about the car not starting yesterday. Today's post that it's running rough sure points at way. Do you know history of the engine? Any idea if it has been rebuilt in the past? If that's what happened, that's a really raw deal!
And sadly, if it just happened to burn a valve now, although it seems to be while it was in the hands of a shop, it is unrelated and just terrible timing. Let's hope it's not that issue.

_________________
1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 6:38 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:44 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Tacoma, WA
It turned out to be the shifter itself has play. When I was throwing it into "D" from "N", it was actually engaging "2" slightly. It has just enough play to make a difference.

So it's an issue outside of the transmission work they did and they aren't responsible. They said they didn't have to mess with any of the actual shifting cable stuff other than to unclip and remove it. So basically they won't fix that (which I understand). It does seem to be a problem in the shifter itself. Bushings maybe; or whatever is down in there. It's not a problem on the transmission itself.

When I picked up a mechanic and I drove it around, he mentioned that and I confirmed that was the problem by wiggling the shifter in "D" to get it to go into first from second when taking off.

So in regards to the car's poor idling. now I need a timing belt it seems. Maybe the old worn out transmission hid that symptom. I did have a similar problem ONE time one night months ago but then it went away and didn't come back until now.

Oh and in regards to the failed transmission, I asked about what they found in it prior to rebuilding. They said the forward clutch material was destroyed (presumably clogging everything) and that there was pretty much nothing left when they tore it apart. They replace the torque converter, did a complete rebuild and redid the transmission pump. So yes, they completely rebuilt it.

They were prompt, patient and courteous with my questioning the issues I was having. They seem to be a good, honest transmission shop. It's just an old economy car that has various issues. :razz:

I asked if there's any special care I should take as far as breaking it in and they said no. I asked about changing the filter sooner than normal and they said maybe at 10k would be a good idea. $70+tax for them to service the transmission on a Metro with A/T. Since I tend to put 10k a year generally, I'm good for a year haha.

However! I need to get it to a shop to get the timing belt checked and probably replaced. The woman I bought the car from claimed the timing belt was new but then again she had some BS story about how the A/C would "blow up" (her exact words) if you attempt to recharge it, based on what a mechanic told her. BUT WHAT A/C??? It doesn't HAVE A/C! :roll: So I suspect it probably does need a timing belt since it seems she was full of crap. They also told me they'd give me a set of snow tires for it but then never responded to my requests to pick them up.. but I expected that. Never expect anyone to tell you to the truth about giving you something extra unless you have it in your hands.

And no, I have no history on the engine, but I *can* go free-rent a compression tester. However, I need to wait for a clear day when it's not raining three quarters of the entire Pacific ocean.

(Edit: I may to the timing belt myself. I watched a YouTube video on the subject of changing a G10 timine belt and it's so freaken easy on this car in regards to removing the crankshaft pulley... I have no excuse not to. I have the tools and know-how having done timing belts on a similar designed engine in a Ford Escort, I need to just do it myself. It's a non-interference engine like the Escort had, so it's kind of idiot-proof.)

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 10:19 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:19 pm
Posts: 344
Location: vancouver island, canada
I call bullshit. They have to remove the shifter cable to remove the trans. They never sat it back up right. Its 100% there fault and dont let them tell you otherwise. I own 2 automatics and have replaced the one 3 times now. And even with the same trans just removing it to change the broken torque converter I still had to reset the shifter. Dont let them get away with shit. The adjuter is right on top of the trans. If you want I wil take a pic. But the trans can not be removed without disconecting it.

_________________
92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 10:55 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:19 pm
Posts: 344
Location: vancouver island, canada
in the first pic you will see the first part they have to disconnect. this is actual shifter rod for the trans with the neutral safety switch. this is what they didn't adjust properly. it tells the trans what gear you are selecting.

Attachment:
Shifter1.jpg
Shifter1.jpg [ 36.54 KIB | Viewed 2716 times ]


in this second pic is where said cable attaches to the trans they they must remove in order to remove the trans. so they had to disconnect both in order to remove the trans. this is one of the first steps to remove and one of the last to install. so they CANNOT say they didn't have to touch the cables. they did and THEY did not set it up properly. make them fix it

Attachment:
Shifter2.jpg
Shifter2.jpg [ 57.01 KIB | Viewed 2716 times ]


my finger points to both points of removal

and in the second pic just to the right of the shifter cable is the kick down cable. if it kicks down to early or to late that is what needs adjusting. something else that that they should of adjusted after removel.

_________________
92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 11:06 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:19 pm
Posts: 344
Location: vancouver island, canada
and yes, the timing belt should take 45 min with hand tools. they are really easy. but a good idea to wait for the sub tropical storms to pass. even my garage is flooded just with the water dripping off my car.

one word of advise if they didn't say it in the utube vid... loosen the water pump pulley bolts before you remove the surp belt. and make sure they are tight after its reinstalled. and if you can it would also help to loosen the crank bolts at the same time.

_________________
92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 1:19 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:44 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Tacoma, WA
redneck racing wrote:
I call bullshit. They have to remove the shifter cable to remove the trans. They never sat it back up right. Its 100% there fault and dont let them tell you otherwise. I own 2 automatics and have replaced the one 3 times now. And even with the same trans just removing it to change the broken torque converter I still had to reset the shifter. Dont let them get away with shit. The adjuter is right on top of the trans. If you want I wil take a pic. But the trans can not be removed without disconecting it.


Their claim was they didn't have to undo the nut I guess. And I do admit there is play in the shifter. In drive it can be wobbled ligthly around as if it's loose inside.

I may just reference my FSM and adjust it a 1/8 turn to see if it fixes it.

re: Kickdown, it seems like it's downshifting okay... I think. Although, it does feel like it's dragging sort of when I take my foot off the gas often. Maybe it's not disengaging due to the kickdown/TV cable?

redneck racing wrote:
one word of advise if they didn't say it in the utube vid... loosen the water pump pulley bolts before you remove the surp belt. and make sure they are tight after its reinstalled. and if you can it would also help to loosen the crank bolts at the same time.


The video I saw, they were actually changing their water pump as well as their timing belt so they removed the water pump pulley. I hadn't intended on that, so thanks for mentioning it it.

I'm not sure I get what you mean about the crank bolts. Loosen them at before/after the water pump pulley but before removing the serpentine belt?

_________________
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 1:58 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:19 pm
Posts: 344
Location: vancouver island, canada
You have to remove the w/p pulley because there is a nut for the timming cover behind it. And I like to loosen the crank bolts well the surp belt is instelled. Sometimes that but of extra drag is needed to crack the bolts loose. But its not a requirement.

if your going to try and adjust the shifter the way I do it is i remove/loosen the nuts, put the shifter in drive and manualy move the lever on the trans 3 clicks that will put the trans in drive then I tighten the nuts making sure everything stays centered. but the FSM should also have a step by step that is thebway I have set every auto trans I have ever done. Ford chevy dodge impotrs. Does not matter and it has always worked perfect for me


and ask them if they didnt have to remove it how they got the trans out. There is not a vehicle made where you dont have to remove some sort of shifter cable/rod to remove the trans.

_________________
92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 5:48 pm 
Offline

Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Alberta, Canada
Good post. That's a very accurate way to get shifter adjusted. It's to bad the tech didn't take a second look at it and touch it up, it really shouldn't have came back to you that way. So be it, if that's the worst thing you find, and it straightens right up after you or they tweak it, that's not bad.
You will be able to handle timing belt replacement, and may want to do cap/rotor/plugs/wires at the same time if tune up parts haven't been done yet. If plugs are out for compression test and you have tools out doing timing belt, it won't take half an hour to do all this.
My only concern reading this post at this point is that I would bet that it's not timing belt causing the no start or hard start issue. They just aren't the type of thing to cause that problem, jumping teeth technically can happen, but never does. That said, it will need to be done regardless, so nothing wrong with doing it up, and you will know for a fact that it's timed correctly and will gain peace of mind knowing its taken care of.
One thing to note on the belts for these model years, sometimes the belts seem to be just a hair short, and you have to work a bit to slide them on, or have to loosen tensioner bolts enough to swing it away enough to get belt on. Not a big deal, just something to be aware of, it's nice to know beforehand, so you don't think it's the wrong belt and land up taking it back or whatever.
Post compression numbers if you get a chance.

_________________
1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 32 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group