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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2006 12:34 am 
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Island Inbreeder
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Location: Emerald city Washington
I hit the search button got over 230 hit's
I repaced the iner boot driver side short shaft on my 88 sprint
didn't have a spare shaft and the parts store quoted me &
$66.00 for a repacement shaft or a boot for $16.00
they had the boot

So here is 6 pictures how easy it is

The tools needed is 1 pair of wire cutter (dikes)
and 2 screw drivers -or a clip pliers to get the snap ring off

The boot (shot)
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Image
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.Remove broken rubber boot take off "C" clip
flush old grease out of bearings & clean inside
The pline shaft were the bearing ride
inspect for scoring,pitting, or gouges
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]
..Image
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.Broken boot pline shaft & the cutters
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..Image
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New boot (carquest) &16.00 & cleaned Tri bearing
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.Image
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Last edited by jaguar,vettes&sprints on Mon Sep 11, 2006 12:55 am, edited 5 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2006 12:47 am 
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Island Inbreeder
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Location: Emerald city Washington
slide new boot with the clamp on to the shaft
slide the tri bearing on the plined shaft intall "C"
clip on the end of the shaft
(holds the tribearing from sliping off the end)
put grease liberaly in the bearing (Load bearing)
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.Image
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. Fill the spline shaft end put it on secure the new boot with the new clamp
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.finished shaft painted so I can see it's been redone
on the shelf in garage in low light
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.Image
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.This whole job took less then an hour removing
shaft cleaning & replacing boot & re installing on the car
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. ------------------------------------- JV&S ---
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Last edited by jaguar,vettes&sprints on Mon Sep 11, 2006 12:51 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 10:12 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 19, 2005 1:49 pm
Posts: 545
Location: Ontario
shouldn't the title be cv boot replacement? cause you didn't repair the actual cv joint, but good write up exactly what i did to my gt cv.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 7:15 pm 
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Island Inbreeder
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Location: Emerald city Washington
yes your right
Thank for the help
.
..
.
--------------JV&S ---------------


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2006 10:52 pm 
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The Smuggler
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Location: Surrey, BC CANADA
Good stuff JVS nice writeup and pics, one thing I would add is check the clearances and condition of the tribearing and the housing for deteriation and problems after you clean it up.
This way you dont have to use the boot if the joint is toast.
and you can go back and get the complete shaft..
When a boot has been open for a while the joint can get water and dirt inside which will destroy the joint.

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"I love the whine of a turbo in the mornin" 1991 Sprint Turbo
"I also love the 7500 rpm scream of a DOHC" :razz: 2X 1989 Swift GTi's a 92 and Jr's new 93 GT

Keep your eye on the boost guage!
And I love this one!
"Dale Jarrett's crew chief" "Drive it like ya STOLE IT!"
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 12:48 am 
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Island Inbreeder
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Posts: 6347
Location: Emerald city Washington
Thanks Knuckles

Good point
ya you are right
to do it right the clearences on the tri ball bearing
should be checked

I just give it a good once over after I've flushed the joint out
and if i don't see any scoring ,wear, or gouge marks inside
I go with it

for $66 (cheep)you can buy a recon shaft form your local parts store
Or replace the boot for $16 ??

I don't let my short shaft get that bad
When change motor oil
while under the front of the car I check the boots out if they look like they are cracking are have started to rip i change them out
At $16 -$66 + labor It's still cheap insurance

It's a pisser to be out some were and have a CV joint let go

I've never had one let go -- but have seen the carnage that can happen buy driving a car that the CV joint came apart on

I posted this little diddy for people out there that had a bad
-CV boot- could search --Teamswift.net --
and find out it is realy not that bad of a job and can be done with some basic hand tools and under 1 hours time

maybe save money replace the boot
before the joint goe's beyond the point were it has to be replaced
.
.
.
-------JV&S --


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 11:10 pm 
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Moderator & FAQ King
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One habit I've gotten into is also using some rubber/vinyl cleaner/conditioner on the CV boots. CV boots are asked to withstand exposure to road grit, salt, engine fluids, oil, brake dust and heat, yet remain pliable during tens of thousands of kilometers of flexing forces. However, they're frequently neglected on most cars. Getting under the car every once in a while to clean off the accumulated contaminants, and condition the rubber with something to keep it from cracking, is preferable to ripping the suspension apart to swap out driveshafts.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 11:29 pm 
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Location: Willow River B.C.
Awesome write up, mine are starting to crack, maybe I can replace them now when I do my clutch.

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1987 mk1 T3


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2006 12:59 am 
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Island Inbreeder
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Location: Emerald city Washington
cool
and you wont have to brack apart the outer joint
If the outer boot is bsd just undo the small & large clamp slide the end spine off
remove the c clip holding the tri bearing remove the bearing
take it off the shaft remove the boot

then break the clamps on damaged boot slide it off the shaft
flush both sets of bearing inspect for damage then reload with greese
put the lower boot and clamp it on side the other end put the boot on
put the tri-bearing

install c clip load the bearing with grease instaled spine shaft and secure
the boot withclamps
.
.
.
. ---------------- JV&S --------------------------
.
.
.
.
..
.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 2:51 am 
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Location: Willow River B.C.
Just finished doing the boots on my car tonight, found one broken boot when I pulled my engine/trans and the others were right behind it so I replaced them all (and I beat you JV&S 4 @ $15 CAN ea :lol: )

Image

One thing I have to recommend is that if your kit came with the chintzy clamps like this:

Image

Your better off reusing your old clamps. replacement boots for quads come with the same clamps and though most of us dont beat our cars like a quad I have seen many times where the replacement clamps get caught by a stick or rock and pop off which leads to a blown cv joint.

I didnt bother flushing the joints out as three werent broken and the grease in all 4 was still clear and the bearings were smooth.

Now I just gotta finish putting the rest of the car together...


Scott

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Its not lag, its suspense...
1987 mk1 T3


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 1:15 am 
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Posts: 12
jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
cool
and you wont have to brack apart the outer joint
If the outer boot is bad just undo the small & large clamp slide the end spine off
remove the c clip holding the tri bearing remove the bearing
take it off the shaft remove the boot

then break the clamps on damaged boot slide it off the shaft
flush both sets of bearing inspect for damage then reload with greese
put the lower boot and clamp it on side the other end put the boot on
put the tri-bearing

install c clip load the bearing with grease instaled spine shaft and secure
the boot withclamps
. ---------------- JV&S --------------------------
.


JV&S - Sorry...I am a little confused. I need to replace the outer boot (and not the inner boot). I removed the clamps for the outer boot, but I don't undertstand how to separate the outer joint.

Image
(outer joint - how the heck do you separate it?)

Are you suggesting to remove the inner boot and inner joint, then slide the outer boot all the way down the shaft and off the other (inner) end ? (thus, not needing to separate the outer joint)

Thanks...


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 3:18 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 2:45 pm
Posts: 12
Nevermind...I found this post:

http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?p=183659

...which answers my question. I was able to separate the outer joint as described there. It worked great. Thanks...


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 8:31 pm 
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Island Inbreeder
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Posts: 6347
Location: Emerald city Washington
MBoss wrote:
jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
cool
and you wont have to brack apart the outer joint
If the outer boot is bad just undo the small & large clamp slide the end spine off
remove the c clip holding the tri bearing remove the bearing
take it off the shaft remove the boot

then break the clamps on damaged boot slide it off the shaft
flush both sets of bearing inspect for damage then reload with greese
put the lower boot and clamp it on side the other end put the boot on
put the tri-bearing

install c clip load the bearing with grease instaled spine shaft and secure
the boot withclamps
. ---------------- JV&S --------------------------
.


JV&S - Sorry...I am a little confused. I need to replace the outer boot (and not the inner boot). I removed the clamps for the outer boot, but I don't undertstand how to separate the outer joint.

Image
(outer joint - how the heck do you separate it?)

Are you suggesting to remove the inner boot and inner joint, then slide the outer boot all the way down the shaft and off the other (inner) end ? (thus, not needing to separate the outer joint)

Thanks...

.
.YES MBoss
i do remove the iner boot/joint assmbly
to do the outer boot it's not that hard to slide them off
Thank you for the extra effort and the link
i know it will help someone else who wants to tackle the boot replacement
---------------JV&S
.
.

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.

t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 8:35 pm 
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Island Inbreeder
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Posts: 6347
Location: Emerald city Washington
tbirdscott wrote:
Just finished doing the boots on my car tonight, found one broken boot when I pulled my engine/trans and the others were right behind it so I replaced them all (and I beat you JV&S 4 @ $15 CAN ea :lol: )

Image

One thing I have to recommend is that if your kit came with the chintzy clamps like this:

Image

Your better off reusing your old clamps. replacement boots for quads come with the same clamps and though most of us dont beat our cars like a quad I have seen many times where the replacement clamps get caught by a stick or rock and pop off which leads to a blown cv joint.

I didnt bother flushing the joints out as three werent broken and the grease in all 4 was still clear and the bearings were smooth.

Now I just gotta finish putting the rest of the car together...


Scott

.
.
. "whoah whoah woah scotty man you should have that finger nail looked at that pup is black!!! :lol:
BTW how many of those boots can I buy form you "WOW" that price is great (YOU THE MAN )
BTW thank's for your input on this ----JV&S
.
.

_________________
.

t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2007 8:49 pm 
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Posts: 28
Location: Tyndall, Manitoba
What do you use to clean the joints with like rinsing them and stuff? Parts washer fluid?? Sorry I don't know a heck of alot bout this sort of stuff but am learning :)

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1985 Pontiac Firefly, 285843 kms and still strong.


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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2007 10:26 am 
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Island Inbreeder
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Posts: 6347
Location: Emerald city Washington
get a shallow pan a stuff brush(non plastic brisels)
and about 2 cups of gas or diesel
use it in a well ventalated area or out side
flush out the joint
the gas will remove the old grease along with any dirt that might have got'n in the joint
When your done with the gas discard it do not reuse it
my dad likes to sop up the old gas with paper towels and burn them up in a little pile in the middle of the driveway I use it for weed killer---JV&S

_________________
.

t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 05, 2010 9:23 am 
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Posts: 172
Location: Dalton, GA.
STICKY NEEDED!


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 7:26 pm 
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Posts: 4
Location: San Antonio
Knuckles wrote:
When a boot has been open for a while the joint can get water and dirt inside which will destroy the joint.


This is a good point BUT... If your CV joint is not clicking (we've all heard it) when driving, especially backwards with wheel turned, you should not have any trouble just putting a boot on and going with it. Even so, I have replaced boots with it only clicking while turning and it clicked away for over a year and then I just replaced it "because I was there" type situation...


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2011 10:51 am 
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jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
When your done with the gas discard it do not reuse it. I use it for weed killer---JV&S

Wait until the tree huggers on your island find out!

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clinty wrote:
Us swift people are a rare breed.

pacapo wrote:
You get an old one, clean it up, put it back to specs and take care of it, and she'll last for years.

JVS wrote:
We (the Suzuki enthusiast) are Dinosaurs.

An eye for an eye will leave the whole world blind.

1989 Suzuki Swift GTi: Red "My PocketRocket"
1989 Suzuki Swift GTi: White (Being resurrected)
1996 Geo Metro (Stocker)
1999 Suzuki 1.6 Esteem (Baleno) Wagon (Sleeper creeper)


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2017 11:53 pm 
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Island Inbreeder
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 6:56 pm
Posts: 6347
Location: Emerald city Washington
anybody have a part number for the Inner boot.?
.
.Thanks Jv&s
.
.


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