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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 12:56 am 
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Well, after two years of playing around, I finally got to go for a drive this weekend – what a fun little car!
But it ended on a sour note tonight, with the car dropping into a sort of limp mode, where the car will not run over 2000 rpm in any gear, but starts and idles just fine. This happened on the free way some distance from home, but I did managed to slowly get back. The hills around my place made this hard,and I’ll admit I was in more than one persons way!

A little background:
Car is a 91 Swift GTi.
I received the car with a broken timing belt two years ago, and 14 bent valves.
All valves were replaced, new valve seals used, and all parts and gaskets were replaced with genuine Suzuki parts.

I spent over an hour here searching your forum, and did find that many of you have experienced TPS issues. This was my first guess. But after figuring out how to get the diagnostics to read – I get code 24.
Code 24 is the Speed Sensing Circuit…
What does this exactly mean? Am I reading this correctly for my car?
I found a link to:
http://www.troublecodes.net/suzuki/
on one of the threads.
If I got a MAF or TPS code, that would be easy. I did search for Speed Sensing Circuit and came up empty handed through the forum. If I missed this, I appoligise, but if anyone has a clue as to what my issue could be, I would be very happy to receive any information.
Thanks in advance for you help,
Byron


Last edited by Byron510 on Sat Nov 24, 2007 8:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 5:18 am 
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The VSS (vehicle speed sensor) is a reed switch inside the speedometer. Is the speedometer working?

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1994 Metro - MPH project (getting a DOHC G13B)
1994 Metro - MPG project (getting an XFi G10)
1992 Swift - Parts car (gone)
1991 Swift - Parts car (gone)
1990 Swift - Parts car
1997 Metro - Parts car (gone)
1993 Metro - Parts car
1989 Swift GTi - Parts car
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 8:09 am 
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the car should run no problem without a VSS signal... I haven't had one in my car for a few years.... although I am running a chipped ecu, not sure if that would affect it.

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1989 Suzuki Swift GTi - ITB Racecar
2000 Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS - Daily Driver
2004 Dodge Ram Pickup - Tow Vehicle
2006 Suzuki DR-Z400SM - SuperMoto
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I rarely visit TeamSwift anymore, so please email me if you have a question. On average I'm only checking my PM's here once a month. "roy (at) forcefed4 (dot) com"


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 8:59 am 
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I don't think it's the speedo, as I did drive the car around for a day without the speedo hooked up at all - and it ran fine.
Would this have anything to do with the engine speed sensor that would, I assume, be in the distributor?

Byron


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 11:24 am 
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The VSS is inside the instrument cluster, it's driven by the speedo cable. If you pull your cluster, you check if your VSS works by checking it for continuity with a mulitmeter, while you spin the sensor.

Here's pics from the FSM:

Code 24 diagnostic:
[url=http://www.teamswift.net/album_pic.php?pic_id=13033]Image
click for full image[/url]

VSS servicing:
[url=http://www.teamswift.net/album_pic.php?pic_id=13034]Image
click for full image[/url]

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 7:01 pm 
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If the VSS is not functioning, will it stop the engine from running properly?

Or do I have more than one problem.

Code 24 is all the diagnistic light is giving me, but the car will not rev beyond 2500 in netral, and beyond 2000 rpm in any gear, but will rev up to 2000 in all gears. It's liek an ignition cut kicks in, and then starts again at 1500 rpm.

I will check the VSS, thanks Lihtan for the lead.

Byron


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 6:43 am 
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isn't that a symptom of a bad MAF?

BTW, I don't thing the car needs the VSS to run...

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1989 Suzuki Swift GTi - ITB Racecar
2000 Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS - Daily Driver
2004 Dodge Ram Pickup - Tow Vehicle
2006 Suzuki DR-Z400SM - SuperMoto
2009 Cannondale Rize
I rarely visit TeamSwift anymore, so please email me if you have a question. On average I'm only checking my PM's here once a month. "roy (at) forcefed4 (dot) com"


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 9:54 am 
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My friend had the same problem with Nissan 200sx his MAF was broken he cuold onle rew till 2-2.5k rpm, after changing it the car started to rew normaly. Try swaping it with another MAF from Swift gti


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 8:04 pm 
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I really need some help here.
I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure this bloody thing out.
I still have the same running problem that I started this thread with. And I didn’t want to post until I’d exhausted all options.
I have gone through the code 33 and 34 MAF sensor checks (as I started getting these error codes as well as code 24). Output is up to 3V, but because I can't rev the motor past 2000 RPM, I don't get the 5v range that the diagnostic sheet calls for. However, the power source and ground are good. I then checked the VSS circuit, and followed the testing procedure for that as well - it checks out good. So then I'm thinking its ECU (as the tech sheets posted say is the next logical step). So I remove the fuse box to get access to the ECU, and decide to just pull out the 3 plugs and check their condition - there isn't a hint of corrosion or any other issue I can see. So I put it all back together not having disturbed the ECU in any way.
The car still won't run past 2000 RPM and still exhibits the same issue, but now I get no error codes - only code 12 which a search on this site just told me that everything is OK - ITS NOT OK! I drove the car around the block again, got it to repeat the 2000 RPM cut many times and I get no error codes.
The car starts fine, idles fine, but will not increase past 2000 RPM, in any gear, under any load even standing still in neutral. It has to be electrical; the cut off is exactly 2000 RPM. It feels like the fuel or ignition is cut, until the RPM falls to 1500, where it'll run back to 2000RPM and cut out again – it’s as precise as clock work.
Does anyone have any idea - and I don't mean wild guesses or what may have happened on someone else non Suzuki car, does anybody actually know this problem?
I'm tearing my hair out here. I've had this car for a year and a half and all I've wanted to do is drive it - just once.
Thanks,
Byron


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 3:07 am 
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A problem I had with a Nissan seems exactly like this except it hit the "wall" at 3500 rpm. It turned out to be the AFM and was as simple to fix as undoing the plug to the AFM and reinserting it. these things require minimal voltage to work and the slightest bit of corrosion of the terminals can stuff it up.
Just get some contact cleaner and unplug the connection to the AFM, squirt it in both the male and female connections and reconnect it several times.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:49 am 
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I'd unplug both ends of the MAF and TPS wiring and check for electrical problems. It's possible something may have failed in a way that's not tripping a code (eg: a TPS stuck in it's idle position). The MAF is known for getting chewed up by the alternator belt. If the wiring checks out fine, check the sensors next.

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jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
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( miracle pour hole)
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 6:54 pm 
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Well, I think I'm going to drop the ECU and use the test voltages provided in the info link here on the site.
It's going to be a pile of work - I know.
I've already removed the fuse box to get access to the ECU once - I was checking the plugs into the back of the ECU, hoping to find an issue. But all is spotlessly clean and without any obvious problems.
But before I do this, I will check the TPS one more time. The plug in the harness, at the backside of the head under in intake manifolds, sure is a pain in the butt to get to. But I'll find that plug again, and test the contacts at both ends. It really bothers me that I'm getting no codes at all now from the diagnostics (well I am getting code 12 - which means everything is ok - which is pretty strange for a car that won't run past 2000 RPM!).
I'll let you know how I made out with this one.
Man, I just really wanted to drive this car, but instead I've been driven crazy but it!

Byron

Lihtan - thanks for your constant replies to my questions, you've been a good help.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 11:23 pm 
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have you thought about the timing? mine did something like this when my crank keyway went, ran pretty shitty and wouldn't rev past 2500rpm because the timing was way out. just a thought


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 6:36 am 
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just looking through a few old threads.

Hopefully this was sorted long ago for you, but just for reference sake, I've had this exact problem be a TPS.

I didn't check resistances, just voltage from TPS at ECU (well Split Sec unit shows TPS voltage which is same as checking at ECU). TPS voltage was stuck at 1.6-1.8V and it had just died suddenly while driving down the road.

I think it may just have been water/moisture damage as I had cleaned the engine not even a week before.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 9:43 am 
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Thanks for the reply.
Shamefully, I have not sorted this problem out, and the poor car has been collecting dust again in the car park. Anyways, I did go through all the checks on the air flow meter, and all parameters check out good, according to the manual as far as voltages and resistance goes. I had a friend with a good multi meter help me out there. So the next step is the TPS, and I will be tackling that very soon. For now the car just rests, dreaming of being driven!

Byron


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