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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 9:19 am 
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There is a tech writeup at the beginning of the thread that should be sufficient to perform this mod.
Have a look at a service manual. The CTS circuit should be shown, and this should give you an idea how it works, and how to connect it.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 12:40 pm 
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Thanks. I had tried the search and I guess I hosed it up while trying to find it.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 11:49 pm 
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I am planning on doing this very soon.

I found this pressure switch on the ebay, i was wondering if it would be an appropriate one to get for this application.

Thanks a bunch,

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Tru ... ingPayment

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 1:42 am 
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Coming in at 6psi is a litle late, IMO for a non-turbo car.
I would prefer something adjustable down to 2-3psi, just to be safe.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 5:51 pm 
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hmmm this should help a nitrous app also


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:40 pm 
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Does this have anything to do with the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT) ? Because in the service manual says if the ECT is low, injection time for one ignition cycle is divided into two cycles and then extra fuel is added due to asynchronous injection - which gives the fuel injectors a longer pulse as well. My estimate is once the engine is warmed up, this turns off. If there was, say a switch installed to make ECT cold, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will give more fuel and an added amount of power on command - even if engine is warm. Would this work ? For 98-2001 metros i believe (4 cyl) .

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:46 pm 
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Also, if as well the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) was changed to always cold the PCM will adjust to an increased air density in the intake manifold, requiring additional fuel. So increased air+fuel = more power. So both of these sensors should be modified. Just was reading the description for IAT and ECT sensor and they are both thermistors (variable temperature resistor) . If both sensors have high resistance the voltage drop is high (less than 5 volts at PCM) . So, mod would be to take resistance of both sensors at cold, and find resistor with same value and wire in parallel to equal a voltage drop that is high to PCM which makes it easier to attach a switch to it.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:04 am 
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Well, thanks for that explanation, but that's the entire point of this thread. Most of us learned that exact information when we read the first post over two years ago.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 4:13 pm 
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Woodie wrote:
Well, thanks for that explanation, but that's the entire point of this thread. Most of us learned that exact information when we read the first post over two years ago.


Exactly. Numerous engine management systems operate by modifying the signals received by the ECU, to trick it into modifying injector pulsewidth. It's frequently easier to modify sensor input than it is to modify the fuel maps burned into the ROM chip inside the ECU.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 9:25 pm 
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im new to the teamswift forum and im loving it,
anyone help with the location on cts on a 93 1.0l ?


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 6:41 pm 
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this is a good mod, but at WOT on the MK5's (1998-2001) the injectors pulse the same as if the ECT cold.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 12:43 am 
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I have hooked up this mod in my car just yesterday, i have managed to get to 15psi without leaning out at all after the computer goes into closed loop mode, however when crusing down the highway and stomping on the throttle it coughs, hard, i have not done the MAF sensor spring mod however i have done the CTS mod. any ideas why it would do that?

the POT is wired in as in the diagram, when starting the car cold or starting the car after running it for say 10 min it has no fuel, i am producing boost however there is way more boost then the car knows what to do with and it leans out hard before the pressure switches kick in, any suggestions?

Attachment:
CTS_Circuit.jpg

Some ideas i have are checking the ignition timing and checking my spark plug gap and im wondering if the computer is screwed, is there any way to test open vs closed loop directly on the ECU?

thanks guys


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 4:18 pm 
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Where do you install the pressure switch? I was thinking in the intake piping. Also can someone help me with a good step-by-step or diagram to wire it all together, using 2 pressure switches. I located the cts on the drivers side of my throttle body(grn/blk being ground) (gry/wht being input). I'd appreciate some help, thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 8:39 am 
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You want to find a vacuum line off the intake manifold, and tee it off to the pressure switch. As soon as pressure is created in the intake, the pressure switch will see it.

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