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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2004 6:37 pm 
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Location: Brisbane
Mikuni or Keihin both do carbs of the size you are looking for. Do a search on sports bikes that are generally at least 900cc or bigger and you will find what you are looking for. Or, go aftermarket bike carbs.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2004 12:43 pm 
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Location: pittsfield, mass
what carbs would work on the 1.6l 16v engine? what bike carbs? would the carbs from a 80 yamaha xs1100 work? the zuki hayabusa carbs work?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:41 am 
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Location: On a boat
Has anyone tried a single 48 DHLA or 51 IDA? I run a DHLA on my 1.3l rotary and it screams. Just a thought. I have a spare DHLA sitting around and if someone could help out with a manifold I'd be game to try it.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 7:07 am 
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Location: lisboa;Portugal
how much bhp will a 1.0 n/a achieve in carbs?
anyone?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 1:23 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 29, 2005 4:10 am
Posts: 24
Location: selangor
im new to carb convertion, 1 thing i dun understand is, wat do u do with the ecu? it of no use anymore?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 2:45 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2003 3:48 am
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
Ivan,

if you have a Mk1 swift the distributor has mechanical advance mechanism (weights). In that case the ECU is not required.

In mk2/3 ECU controls the ignition and Fuel. So you have to leave the ecu connected. Just block up the EFI but you have to retain the MAF and TPS

If you are fitting carbies in mk2/3 use a mk1 dizzy.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 8:55 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 29, 2005 4:10 am
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Location: selangor
thx, let me c wat my foreman can do abt it..:)


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 12:33 pm 
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Location: Kentucky
what would be needed to get rid of the ECU for a g16b if you went with carbs?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2006 7:55 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 8:20 pm
Posts: 31
Location: Courtice,On
New to this part of the forum. So, What is the simplest way to convert a MK4 TBI to carb(s). If it helps I have access to a machine shop.

I'm hoping to do a hybrid hydrogen conversion and I would like to be useing carbs for it (there alot more variable). :)


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 Post subject: Re: twin 45 DCOE's
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 7:45 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 20, 2005 12:01 pm
Posts: 8
Location: selangor
hamgar wrote:
I've just had twin 40 DCOE's fitted to my UK R/H drive car. The main problem withthis conversion on a R/H drive is the placement of the stock brake master cylinder.<br>If you want a pic of the installation send me an email.<br><br> <p></p><i></i>



Hi Bro ,

Im using R/H Drive too , im interested in going carbs (45 DCOE,S) Ill need ur pictures as a guide to make my custom manifold . 10q

Regards
Hari


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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2007 5:30 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 14, 2006 8:46 pm
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Location: Cambridge, OH
im tryin to find some carbs for my mk1. how does anyone think these will work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... :IT&ih=015

im also thinkin about usin a stromberg 97 if i can get one cheap enough.

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1993 Geo Metro Only mods so far are a Honda short shifter, Glowshift tach and a 3a Racing ricer muffler (freebie)
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PostPosted: Thu May 22, 2008 3:18 pm 
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Location: karachi
go for honda civic d15 carby it really run awsome on carby setup 8)

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2009 10:19 pm 
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Location: Trinidad
I know this is an old post but, Im looking for a distributor for a carb conversion and i can get one from a 1989 swift does anyone know if this particular model will work??

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 Post subject: Re: Carbs
PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2009 7:44 am 
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Location: norwood,oh
mfvmx wrote:
I am rebuilding another engine with a shaved head, port & polish, and some nice cams, I will definatly get this dynoed to see the horsepower gains.
Image
Image



:mrgreen: Where do you get those adjustable cam gears from & How are you routing your vacum to Distributor. I was thinking of running a tube or airbox / routing vacum from the carb boots and the tube . Im thinking it follows the vacum curve more completely . Acceleration/deacceleration. I have a 3 angle grinded head and have completely rebuilt the engine. I took my carbs from a dragbike off ebay. At least that what the vendor stated. It looks to me like they came from a 600cc Suziki Katana


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:16 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2008 2:34 am
Posts: 367
Location: Roumania
This forum and the users on it have helped me alot with my mk1 gti so in return i think it's only fair that i give something back.
This is about the conversion to twin dellorto dhla 40's or dcoe, it's the same.
In my research on carbs i have found out some basic rules for this car :
-Do not install big carbs on it because it's a small engine an will not build enough speed through the venturi tubes . 40's will be good with 30 or 32 mm venturi tubes. I have also 34 mm venturi tubes but until now i could not get the proper jetting for them . They open up in mid 5000 , way to high for a hillclimb car who need both mid range and hi range rpm.
the compromise is 30 or 32 mm venturis.

-My jetting is as follows :
46 idle jets with 120main jets and 170 air corrector plus .1 emulsion tubes.
225 needle valves and 30 mm venturi tubes

For the conversion you will need a pair of carbs, dellorto or weber, one facet red top fuel pump coupled with a low pressure regulator and a custom intake manifold to suit the dellortos.

After you take the original intake off the car , you need to fix the two hoses for coolant that are attached to the manifold.

Next you attach the carbs+inlet and start to run the new fuel lines and acc cable.
It's easy to tune them if they are in proper working order. Just screw in the idle main screw that opens the butterflys about 2 turns after it hits the lever. The idle mixture screws out 2 turns from complete bottom, and start the car.
Next you have to turn the idle mixture screws in any direction(open or clos them) until maximum rpm is achived (do this to every cilinder), after that, unscrew the main idle screw until the rpm goes down to 1000 and then play with the mixture screws and the main idel screw until the engine starts to die when you rotate the mixture screws half way either side. By now the engine should idle steady with little vibration and no exaust backfires.
If you cannot do the above adjustment look for the following :
-air leaks
-clogged passages in the carbs or jets
-spark plugs

P.S : Set the advance as much as you can on stock engines play with it to see where the engine feels best. They will not ping with 98 octane fuel and carbs.
Please note that after you modify the advance you have to do the above idle adjustment again to properly set the idle AFR mixture. A good engine running on a piar of dellortos in the aboove config should idel at 1000 rpm and ahould have good elasticity and torque.

In my opinion the engine gains 15 or more hp at the wheels from the conversion.

P.P.S: You need to keep your fuel rail and injectors or you can plug the holes with something.You will need to take out the standard inlet brace that bolts to the engine block as it hits the carbs and also find a solution for the center top mount. Plese send me a message when you come up with a simple center mount because i haven't thought about building one yet :)

Home this post helps some swifters who want to run carbs . The difference in horsepower gain from bike carbs versus dellorto or weber is about 10 to 15% . And the difference in costs is about 40% .


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G13B 1.3L 16v 115hp
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 10:47 pm 
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What did you do about the brake master cylinder?? Did it clear the top of the air filter on the carbs?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 8:58 am 
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Location: Georgetown, Guyana
What air filter? That's the problem running side drafts on this vehicle - there is no room for an airfilter unless you do some major surgery on the bulkhead. Also, I guess you didn't notice - this is a LHD car, the brake master is over by the transmission - so, clearance there is no problem, as it would be for you & me.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 11:23 am 
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Posts: 367
Location: Roumania
Hello,
You can mount the with a very small air filter or with small trumpets ike mine and cover them with some wire mesh or something for daily use.

I don't know why you want to keep the break master cylinder . Iwill take mine off to see if i can get a better feel of the brakes.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 3:28 pm 
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Location: Trinidad
I have an intake manifold that is made at an angle to clear the brake cylinder.

I will try to post a pic of it.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:06 am 
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@ROV

what is ur base timing and dizzy timing ??


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:31 am 
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Location: Roumania
Actually ..i kinda lost my timing marks but they would be useless since i have modified the head height .
I have vaccum advance , and the static one is set as much as posible without pinging. I use 100 octane pump gasoline .

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:43 am 
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i also have mk1 gti so u mean i can play with dizzy to adjust the timing .


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:18 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2008 2:34 am
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Location: Roumania
yes you can play with timing ...but be carefull because you can overheat teh engine when you retard it and crack a piston when you advance it to much , play with it in small increments and feel the engine, if it's good in low rpm you will probably loose in high rpm and vice-versa

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