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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2007 4:03 am 
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G10 wrote:
Thats for a MK3 is it?

You can get them in any size you want.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 6:37 am 
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What would happen if I only replaced the front control arm bushings and left the rear arms stock? Yes, I'm cheap. :oops:

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 12:31 pm 
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To All interested parties--- Addco (plant in Linville Falls, N.C.) and phone # of 1-800=621-8916 has the bars that you need, and at reasonable prices with the poly bushings included, no end links available though, if you purchase directly from them. I have purchased the front (24mm stock--25.4mm replacement, and rear 18mm stock--22.2 replacement) and rear bars, so far I have only installed the rear and am TICKLED PINK with the difference in handling on corners, and the MUCH LESS noted understeer, so far no rain driving (only had on 3 weeks), so that may change when I get some wet road driving and need to install the 25.4 bar on the front to more balance the handling for year round use. When you call ask to speak to JOHN as he is very helpfull and knowledgeable. I have 95 Metro hatchback.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 1:43 pm 
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95basemetro wrote:
To All interested parties--- Addco (plant in Linville Falls, N.C.) and phone # of 1-800=621-8916 has the bars that you need, and at reasonable prices with the poly bushings included, no end links available though, if you purchase directly from them. I have purchased the front (24mm stock--25.4mm replacement, and rear 18mm stock--22.2 replacement) and rear bars, so far I have only installed the rear and am TICKLED PINK with the difference in handling on corners, and the MUCH LESS noted understeer, so far no rain driving (only had on 3 weeks), so that may change when I get some wet road driving and need to install the 25.4 bar on the front to more balance the handling for year round use. When you call ask to speak to JOHN as he is very helpfull and knowledgeable. I have 95 Metro hatchback.


You do know that when you add a rear sway bar to a vehicle without one (or put on a larger one) that what you're essentially doing is reducing the grip at the back end of the car - so to speak, inducing a certain amount of oversteer.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 2:21 pm 
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Location: Winston Salem N C
FOREDOM/others--yes i am aware that installing rear bar makes the rear react differently- before the steering was VERY HARD and cornering was a handfull (steering effort) and I had original tires/wheels. now the steering is easier in all areas and really does not (yet) seem to create any issues before installing new wheels. Steering has become even easier with new wheels (14by6, 35mm offset) and tires (probably new tires mostly). I am now cornering the same on my usual curves with less steering effort and a MUCH more solid feel, both to the car and to the steering.To my knowledge I do not have any problems with suspension, steering or car. hope that no oversteering problems show up when we get RAIN (hopefully, we are in very severe drought here). Remember that I want to autocross this 3 cyl BEAST.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 5:52 am 
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fordem wrote:
You do know that when you add a rear sway bar to a vehicle without one (or put on a larger one) that what you're essentially doing is reducing the grip at the back end of the car - so to speak, inducing a certain amount of oversteer.


Which is exactly what our cars need.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 11:40 pm 
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fellows===== after driving with the replacement rear only larger bar I WILL NOT GO BACK to stock---the handling is MUCHLY IMPROVED and so far have driven quite a bit in the rain (YES we got rain to help with the drought, but not enough to end it) and have only found one time when I thought that I might get a hand full of oversteer (hitting a used to be 45 mph curve at almost 60) when a miss on the steering input could have gotten me out of shape. That is the only time in about 2500 miles that I have had ANY problem and have thoroughly enjoyed the additional handling of my car. I could note only a little improvement in handling with the installation of 14 by 6-- and Kuhmo KR21 tires in 185/60/14in. IE the 13s were OK, but 14s are better but at quite a price. Yea, I know that good stuff does not come cheap. GRUMPY


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 6:49 pm 
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would anyone know where to locate front sway bar end-bushings for a 1987 turbo sprint?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 8:27 am 
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End link bushings are usually generic, unless there's something special about mk1 bushings you should be able to buy them almost anywhere, I've seen them in standard car parts stores like AutoZone or Advance Auto. Here's some at JC Whitney:

http://tinyurl.com/kparmb

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 6:30 pm 
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thanks for the response. but, the mk1 sprint doesn't have end link bushings - it has direct sway bar to control arm bushings...


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 3:25 pm 
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Location: Reno Nevada
Look up 97metrosleeper
He cited a Moog part number K8649
I picked up 2 sets yesterday at Kragen for $12.oo each, in stock.
They look like a tight fit into the new control arms I bought, he advises seating the
first half using older bush outboard, the seating the new bush ouboard.
I'm still locating parts I need to overhaul front suspension, orig is worn out,
will install this winter.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 7:01 pm 
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thanks for the lead - i wound up getting what appears to be the right set from bd motorsports in australia. they're for the mk1 swift which, i believe is the same chassis as the sprint - but it has a 16 valve 4 cyl. engine. they estimated shipping at around ten days...


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 5:16 am 
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Energy Suspension Part numbers
(these are universal parts, refer to my earlier post in this thread on how to install them):

MK3 front swaybar bushings (24mm / 15/16"):
9.5128G

MK3 rear swaybar bushings (19mm / 3/4"):
9.5123G

Endlink bushings: (1 1/8" OD):
9.8105G

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jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 9:21 am 
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I did the same bushings lihtan refers to earlier in this post and modified the brackets as well, have to save it was simple and easy.
here is the link to the energy suspension catalogue page for universal sway bar bushings.
the G of the end of the part number is for Gray or Graphite color the R will of course be red.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Un ... shings.asp

stock early GT front bars are 22mm the later years were 24mm

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 11:57 pm 
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What was the modification needed on the mounting brackets?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 6:01 am 
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The control arm mounting brackets need to be notched because the aftermarket swaybar mounting bracket is larger than stock.
image_id: 11343

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jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 10:14 am 
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Thanks Lihtan, that pic is perfect! I will be doing this upgrade soon, so it helps, thanks again!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2010 2:38 pm 
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DIY cast in place urethane bushings anyone?
Looking at the prices (old to boot) of these eight control arm bushings plus four sway arm mount bushings, I wonder if they could be cast from resin kits. I'm thinking that Tap Plastics Quick Cast 1 qt kit should make a set or two, and for about $30.
Here in snow and salt free California, my ball joints and arms have survived nicely, but the blue 2door rubber bushings look shot. As well, a piece of strap welded onto the open side of the rear toe arms should help.
Is Shore hardness of D 60 to 70 in a usable range? Cardboard and duct tape dams on one side, and careful jigging seem worth attempting. Am I the goat here, or have others failed so miserably that the subject is taboo?? Or am I in the wrong thread??
bob

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 2:19 pm 
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Got my Whiteline bushings from my recent trip to melbourne. Will post pics when its time to install.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 3:51 pm 
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i know a guy that makes bushings........mmmmmmaaahhhahhhh mmmmmaaaaahhhhhhhh

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 10:43 pm 
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:thwack:

Bushings

:thwack:


This this thread meanders around the topic quite a bit and has a lot of old links that are still good but don't match the current formatting. If you are smart enough to skip to the end, this link provided by Whattheee at the beginning (but now difficult to notice as being relevant) has the most critical information:

http://www.angelfire.com/de/ksj/suspension.html

If I had read this right away I would have scaled down my bushing replacement ambitions considerably and made smarter shopping decisions. As it stands I bought the entire SuperPro kit and so far I have replaced the back D bushing.the inner rear bushing and the swaybar bushings. The round inner bushing is especially difficult to remove in the back as Whathee alludes to. There is a thin metal sleeve that must be peeled up with a cold chisel and pounded out. That's in addition to getting the rubber bit out, which is more difficult than in the front--Wahttheee's method probably won't work. I had to torch mine before I could hammer them out.

The differences between the front and rear bushings are a bit odd--they look almost the same but in the rear the big D bushing just slides off, but in the front you have to wrestle it off or use a press. The rear inner bushing in the back has the extra metal sleeve and is a royal pain to remove, but the replacement slid in without too much fuss. Up front the round inner bushing comes out easily using a puller made from a carriage bolt and nut, a piece of pipe and some washers:

Image
Image
Image

Unfortunately now getting the new one in is a problem. First I tried a vise to squeeze them in (that worked fine with the rear ones). Then I tried the hydraulic press. Then I tried the washers and pipe again, which didn't work either but got closer than the other methods:

Image
Image
Image

I guess it just isn't made to the right tolerances because it does not want to go in there. At this point it looks like I will have to give up and get another lower arm from the junkyard and just replace the D bushing with the offset one and leave the inner one alone--anybody else have trouble with this? Have a ninja bushing-stuffing secret? I tried really hard to find and peel up a metal sleeve in the front but it really doesn't look like there is one. Am I missing it somehow? It sure isn't easy to pry up if it's there somehow and I'm just not seeing it or able to catch the edge with the chisel.

Very, very frustrating.

:furious:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 11:58 pm 
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cut the bushing in half and install each half from either end. :idea:

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:12 am 
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BRILLIANT 8)

Thanks for the brainpower--don't know why that didn't occur to me to begin with as some of the bushings come like that already anyway. Now the question of the morning is utility knife vs. hacksaw. The knife would be the obvious choice except it will be hard to get that deep and keep it straight (though that probably doesn't matter as long as the pieces fit together).

I was actually about to try chamfering the edges of the hole, but cutting the bushings in half is a much better idea. I would still love to know if this is something everybody has to do with these or if I just got a weird set.

Thanks T3!


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 1:41 pm 
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It's difficult, but it's possible to mount them in one piece! I mounted them with a piece of thread like you did, but guided the bushing in a tube so it couldn't collapse like in the pictures. A bit of vaseline took care of the rest. Good luck!


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:04 pm 
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I also tried stuffing the bushing in the slightly larger diameter pipe I had used to pull it out first, but had trouble getting my threaded apparatus to grip enough to pull it in. I ended up cutting them in half after all, figuring that if I ever want to replace my control arm they'll be a hell of a lot easier to swap. Chef's knife from the kitchen turned out to be the best implement.

Image

I still needed the carriage bolt to push the crush tube in and make sure both halves were seated properly.

Image

Here's everything almost back together. Since I got the Superpro caster bushings for $20 on sale from 185 performance, I did not get the shims that come with the Whiteline kit. I added an extra washer in an attempt to get just a little more caster--I haven't seen any pictures of anybody else's bushings in place, so I hope I did this correctly.

Image

Here's everything completely back together :D Notice that I had to swap the lock washer with a thinner one to make everything fit and that the bolt is now just flush with the retaining nut, so that's as much caster as I can get with shims and bushings I guess.

Image

The effects are fairly subtle in ordinary driving, but the car does seem a bit better planted--I expected steering effort at low speed to increase dramatically, but not so much after all. I had already gotten the front of the car much more grip by removing the front swaybar entirely, but, for what it's worth, I can now take the average freeway ramp around here at better than 50 on my cheap DD tires, so grip is good, and where I was a little too loose before I think the stiffer bushings helped to tighten things up again in spite of any further increased grip at the front. I am now just about perfectly neutral with the ability to get oversteer with trail braking if I want it--follow the Spanish Inquisition Racing thread in track talk if interested in the rest of the set up.

If anyone is reading this in the not too distant future and looking for bushings, try searching by part number at 185 performance as they may discounted for clearance.

http://store.185performance.com/

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http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=57216


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