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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 11:58 pm 
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Location: Brisbane
ausgixxerpilot wrote:
metalfab_101 wrote:
I had the sump pulled off but couldn't find the "safe place" i'd put my verniers in! :buzz:

Just out of interest, what is a FJ1100?


If you can turn your crank so the centre two rods are at BDC you can measure from the side faces of number two and three crankpins and add 22mm for the rod to give the spacing.
I can't turn the crank in this one because three pistons are stuck so I couldn't quite get my vernier in there. And I can't find my outside caliper either so it'll have to wait until I pull the head :-)

FJ1100/1200 is a Yamaha touring bike.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_FJ1200
We have a car racing series here called Aussie Racing Cars which use the FJ1200 engines so the engines are fairly strong. http://www.aussieracingcars.com.au/cars.htm
I _think_ the XJR1300 uses the same rod but the FJR1300 has a significantly longer stroke so I assume it uses different rods - I'm still chasing specs for those.


The crank in my engine is free so I can take some measurements for you, but i'm a bit lost as to what you want??? :?

I know of the Aussie racing cars (i'm a Queenslander 8) ), thanks for the info, very interesting!


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 12:09 am 
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metalfab_101 wrote:
The crank in my engine is free so I can take some measurements for you, but i'm a bit lost as to what you want??? :?

I know of the Aussie racing cars (i'm a Queenslander 8) ), thanks for the info, very interesting!


I just want bore spacing now to determine how far I can bore it out.
I'll have the head off in an hour so it's not a problem :-)
Aussie Racing Cars are the best car racing I've seen, although the A1GP is good as well.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 4:11 am 
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ausgixxerpilot wrote:
I just want bore spacing now to determine how far I can bore it out.
I'll have the head off in an hour so it's not a problem :-)


I pulled the head to discover it's a 1324cc G13A with 75mm bores, but the bore spacing is 84mm as specified earlier here. Haven't measured the stroke yet but am I right in guessing it's a 75mm crank or could it still be a 75.5mm crank?
Is the 75mm block just a bored 74mm block or are the liners actually 1mm thicker for the bigger bores?
I can see I'm going to have do some more research :-)

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 9:55 am 
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ausgixxerpilot wrote:
Is the 75mm block just a bored 74mm block or are the liners actually 1mm thicker for the bigger bores?


I measured the OD of the 75mm bores at 91mm (8mm wall thickness) around the top. The bottom of the iron liner is 79mm OD.
Can anybody confirm if the 74mm bores are also 91mm OD or are they 1mm smaller diameter?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 11:53 pm 
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Location: Brisbane
ausgixxerpilot wrote:
ausgixxerpilot wrote:
I just want bore spacing now to determine how far I can bore it out.
I'll have the head off in an hour so it's not a problem :-)


I pulled the head to discover it's a 1324cc G13A with 75mm bores, but the bore spacing is 84mm as specified earlier here. Haven't measured the stroke yet but am I right in guessing it's a 75mm crank or could it still be a 75.5mm crank?
Is the 75mm block just a bored 74mm block or are the liners actually 1mm thicker for the bigger bores?
I can see I'm going to have do some more research :-)


g13 should have a 74mm bore. There are 2 types of g13, 1324 (74 x 77) and a 1298 (74 x 75.5). If yours is 75 then it must be overbored i'm guessing. You're correct about bore spacing at 84mm.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 1:27 am 
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metalfab_101 wrote:
g13 should have a 74mm bore. There are 2 types of g13, 1324 (74 x 77) and a 1298 (74 x 75.5). If yours is 75 then it must be overbored i'm guessing. You're correct about bore spacing at 84mm.


Yep, I worked that out pretty quickly :-)

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 6:31 am 
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Im just putting together my own G16\D16 crank hybrid, turns out the D16A1 crank has oilways placed in the same positions on the mains and crank pins as the G13B crank, but in different areas as related to the G16 crank, Blake (4wd cultus with D16A1 crank in a G16) in NZ had oilling issues and hence got his combination running with a dry sump system.
Mr.Pipe recommends using a D16z6 crank as its oilways resemble those used in the G16, im yet to aquire one of these cranks to find out. Using D16 Eagle rods you have a rod stroke length of 137mm, using toyota 1ggte spec pistons with a pin height of 33mm (bore 75mm and factory forged) you end up with 170 as the combined figure.
Toyota 1ggze engines have a square bore storke of 75 x 75, could be useful as g13b replacement internals


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2010 10:37 pm 
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Why doesn't anyone use a 1.6L crank in a 1.3L block and use an off set grind on the rod journals for the small BE ID on those motorcycle rods and piston assy. I have played with the numbers and got real close to 1.8L @ 9.5:1 and higher BUT those 1.6L cranks are hollow...So I don't know how much grinding they will take??? You can do similar things to the 1.3L forged GTI crank...But one of the problems is the rod width. I am looking a having some steel shims water jet cut for my setup.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 2:54 am 
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notheredave wrote:
Why doesn't anyone use a 1.6L crank in a 1.3L block and use an off set grind on the rod journals for the small BE ID on those motorcycle rods and piston assy. I have played with the numbers and got real close to 1.8L @ 9.5:1 and higher BUT those 1.6L cranks are hollow...So I don't know how much grinding they will take??? You can do similar things to the 1.3L forged GTI crank...But one of the problems is the rod width. I am looking a having some steel shims water jet cut for my setup.


Check the g13 block height before you go too far, its a very short block.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 6:59 am 
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Good info on the crank but I dont think that matters with your current setup its fixed somehow?
I was following your thread on redlinegti and seems youve solved the issues?

g13b block is way too short for g16b crank otherwise many would be doing it regardless that
its a cast crank. g13 block is almost 30mm too short

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 10:25 pm 
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well time to add my 2 cents.i am also doing a hybrid motor but with a slight twist.yes the 4age big pin rods can work on the g13b crank as they have the same 42mm rod jounal(this also allows you to use the ACL race 4age rod bearing) if you are not running turbo and want to take advantage of stronger toyota rods(ARP has up graded bolts as well)get a set of 20v silver top rods same spec(dimensions as s/c or small port 16v rod)but slightly smaller beam cross section(even lighter still black top 20v rods).yes the rod has a 20mm pin size just have a machine shop rebush the rod small end and make it 19mm then you can chose to make it a full floating pin or press fit.the honda zc piston has a slightly higher pin hight so the net gain in piston hight worked out to 1.4 or 1.6 mm (will confirm once i get a set in) stock suzuki being slightly below deck the difference could be made up with a custom thickness head gasket and still give 12-15 to 1 compression for n/a race motor use :yeahyeah just a heads up if you can locate a set of late model style formula atlantic rods i.e.42mm spec one's formula atlantic 4age used a 19mm pin the early style was 40mm rod journal(cut crank 2mm) also with 19mm pin most times you will find carrillo if you look for used atlantic parts!

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2011 6:41 pm 
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good stuff!

just to add another bit on the d16 cranks
the best one is a d16 z6 which supposedly
has the oil holes in the right places to g16

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 11:05 am 
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Location: Zagreb, Croatia
This should be sticked.....!

I couldn't find this topic using search, but luckily I found it manually...
It would be bad to lost this info here... :roll:

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 7:42 am 
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Just weighed the bare blocks complete with oil pump, waterpump from sump to rocker cover unopened and the weights are surprising for the big block G series engine there is the non counterweighed early G16A 16v and the Full CW G16B 16v well the g16a is 53kg and the g16b is 55kg absolute feather weights!!!

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 2:10 am 
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Location: Melbourne
Im trying to find the right data for the G13b and g16b rods
eg. big end thickness is the main thing at the moment so
I can match other rods for at least the thin g16b rods
which many want to replace for safety.
Im thinking of running longer rods and shorter pistons for
the g16b to suit bigger bores as well.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 9:20 am 
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I have lots of that stuff here...what measurements do you want?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 11:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2004 5:39 am
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Location: Melbourne
Mr.Pipe wrote:
I have lots of that stuff here...what measurements do you want?


Thanks Mr Pipe will need rod width at the big and small end if possible
of the g16b rods to try and match other ones available from other makes.
Trying to help myself and others find alternative rods to replace the
pubic sized factory ones. So far mine have sustained alot of abuse
but Im building another higher tune g16b and would like to find something
off the shelf equally or similar in weight if not a tad more height so I can
probably match to cbr1000 pistons or similar 24.5-26mm comp height slugs.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:30 am 
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Location: Hungary
Hello guys,

i''m reading the forum about swapping Suzuki G and Honda D series internals, i have some question about modifying these oldies.

I have a G13A 1324ccm engine from a Swift SA413. I'd like to get more power out of it for an amateur track day car. Here's my plan, please tell me what do you think about it. Emissions or fuel usage is not important, the most important thing is to make it a little rocket. I'm using the G13A because it has 0 sensors, electronics, ECU or fuel injection. Once it starts, it's running purely mechanic, no need to reprogramme it, giving bigger injectors or anything like that. It would have to look like a stock engine on the outside as well thanks to the stupid regulations, so running Webers is not an option.

-G13A block, cylinders sleeved to 75mm
-oil pump from mk1 G13B GTI to make sure there's stable oil pressure all the time (not sure if it fits to the G13A block)
-D15B2 crankshaft
-4A-GE SilverTop 20V rods for oil squirters (pin hole converted from 20mm to 19mm with custom CNC-made bearings)
-high compression Honda P29 pistons
-custom made head gasket because of the 75mm pistons , 74mm stock won't fit it anymore (not sure about it's height, it might depend on how much the piston sticks out of the engine block at top dead center with the toyota rods, since they are 2mm higher than the stock 'Zuki ones)
-machined down cylinder head for higher compression ratio
-polished and ported intakes for better air flow
-bigger jets in the carb to get more fuel in the combustion chamber
-manifold from an mk1 G13B GTI because it's Y-header is bigger, 38mm inner diameter on standard 1.3 8V, 45mm on GTI
-45mm stainless steel exhaust system with 1 flow-through silencer muffler at the back
-mk1 GTI gearbox for shorter gear and diff ratios

My questions are:
-If i'm using the Honda D15B2 crankshaft, which pulley is gonna fit it? Suzuki or Honda? If the latter, how's it gonna be possible to run the timing belt on it? Also, is the belt's signal gonna be on the right place for it for further maintaince?
-What about the flywheel, does the 'Zuki flywheel fit the Honda crankshaft? If i have to use the Honda flywheel, how's the starter gonna fire up the car? Dimensions are the same?

Regards,
ikszde


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