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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 5:44 pm 
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There was a good thread on this, but it was lost in the move.
I will detail what I know about putting together a budget buildup on the 98-01 North American 1.3/16V, and if anybody has any input, or knows any tricks, please post them up.

This is a 16V SOHC motor with lower compression, a very mild cam, lousy exhaust manifold, and tiny little throttle body.
As choked up as it is, it still goes pretty good, and gets great gas mileage.
These are very durable motors, and as far as I know, have no serious weaknesses.

Kris' write up for his 99 is here viewtopic.php?f=30&t=25113&start=0


The stock breather is very restrictive. You can replace the stock paper filter with a K&N, and leave the lid off (I think it's the same part # as the GT), or you can install a home made warm air/cold air intake. A cone type filter is highly recommended.

Kris' excellent write up on installing a home made cold air setup

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=25955

You can also get a piece of 2 1/2" exhaust tuning, have it bent, and run it out behind the front bumper.

I was lazy and just stuck a 2 1/2" cone filter on the end of the flex tubing.
A piece of 2 1/2" exhaust tube stuffed inside the rubber expanded it to just the right size.
image_id: 8934

If all you can find is a 3" filter, the exhaust shop can expand one end of a piece of 2 1/2" exhaust tube to make a 2 1/2"-3" adaptor for a few bucks.

The stock throttle body is only 40 mm. You can find a bolt on 45 mm TB from a 1.6 Suzuki Esteem. A few minor adjustments are required, but it is essentially a bolt on.
This makes a big difference in mid-to upper RPM power.
This is a bored TB with a GT 45 mm plate, but the OEM from the 1.6 is a better solution
image_id: 8993

The next thing that needs to be addressed is the exhaust.
The stock exhaust manifold is a pretty standard, pretty lousy setup. The 01 car even has a precat at the bottom. Not exactly ideal for flow.
You have 3 choices here.

Use a 4-2-1 manifold and down pipe from a 1.6 Swift sedan (Canada only car)
Use a mildly modified GT manifold and down pipe, or
Use a GT header modified to fit the same as the manifold.

The 1.6 manifold is a bolt on solution. The down pipe might need to be shortened 25 mm (the 1.6 block is 25 mm taller). The port spacing is the same between the DOHC, and SOHC motors, so the only mods required to the GT manifolds, is to grind out a few mounting holes, and make up a few holding tabs where bolt holes do not exist. Not a bad job.

Here is a pic of the stock manifold, and a 1.6 manifold.
If I recall, after 99, the stock manifold has a pre-cat in it, and is even more restrictive.

image_id: 9014

It's a huge difference, and a very well advised installation.

For simplicity, the 1.6 manifold is the way to go (if you can find one). For pure performance, the GT parts are better. The GT manifold port sizes are 2 mm larger than that of the 1.6 SOHC.

The stock cat can be reused, but a free flowing aftermarket cat is good, too. I recommend a 2" exhaust from front to back. I like a glasspack under the car, where the resonator would go, and a small free flowing muffler at the back. This will be a quiet setup.

The stock cam is very, very mild, and has only 184 degrees duration at .050". This is a good economy cam, but not a performance cam. I have grinds for these cars similar in duration to the Swift GT cams (or hotter), but this should be your last mod, after everything else mentioned.

Once you've done all these, your car will be as close to a stock Swift GT in performance as you're going to get on a budget, and a lot of fun. It will be a completely different animal.

What you will want to do next is find a 4.10, or 4.39 trans to put you into the meat of the powerband, and bring the gears a little closer together. Since it has a low 6500 redline, I think a 4.10-1 is better for daily driving, but from a pure performance standpoint, you can't beat the 4.39-1 final drive, especially since the 95+ cars are a few hundred pounds heavier. If you choose the 4.39, a little more rubber to fill out the wheel wells will help your RPM on the hwy.

The last, and probably most important mod for any of the Swifts, is to shed weight. Get rid of as many unnecessary pounds as possible. You'll be surprised at how much difference as little as 35 lbs can make, and the rear seats, jack, and spare probably weigh 100 lbs.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 8:16 pm 
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Excellent! Thanks for posting this quick "summary" up!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 10:17 am 
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thanks for the info i will be looking to get a cam in a little bit


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 2:58 am 
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I have followed this recipe and continued with it and have some results. The cam makes a huge difference. I don't have specific results from the exhaust manifold, but the 1.6 one is a nice looking piece and should flow well. the Esteem throttle body works for sure, it alone knocked .3 secs off my quarter mile time with only that change to the car.
4.39's with these parts makes the car a blast to drive, pulls really hard all gears, first and second really fun around town. I did switch from 4.39 to 4.10 now, because 4.39s run out of steam right before the end of the quarter mile where i have been testing it, hitting the rev limiter. With the switch to 4.10 it is perfect, and I don't think there was any significant performance loss, this engine is quite torquey.
I just added a header and Gt pistons, and found no significant difference, much to my surprise. I may have gained .1 of a second in the quarter, but not as much as I expected. From my experience so far, I would stop at the cam, exhaust, t-body, 4.1 or 4.39 trans point. Those parts can be found for a reaonable price, installation is easy and results are proven with no downside really. I would recomend valve stem seals to be done with cam swap, as the 16v's are very common to have smoke upon startup due to exh stem seals being worn out/baked. Cam change is the ideal time to do this job.

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1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 5:45 am 
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Good work!

Since that head has the same guides as the 3 cyl. head, I wonder if they also wear as badly as they do in the 3 cyl head?

Keep in mind that everything in this thread http://teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6724 also applies. Maybe even moreso, because you're staring with a heavier car, and less power.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 10:12 pm 
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nice info here, any love on 96 swift? is measurements suggested above a surefit on 96 (TB) vs a TBI stock no maf and fuel rail....... i m not a mod junkie but will it be a hefty job for replacing TBI with maf-TB-fuel rail to intake manifold stuff..... or im just talkin non sense about my 96 swift?

sure am, there's lots of info on this website, but dont know where to start.. lol, im still confused on how to fix my exhaust prb....


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 11:04 am 
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Location: TRACY CA USA
Re Mk5 00 rallycrosser
i did all the normal things . big TB ..srd Headers. mild port job /matching.
shaved .060 off the head..OBD 1 ecu .KN air filter..185 thermostat..4.10 gears
alum flywheel/pulley ...HD clutch...
and i was very happy with the motor

then i put one of mikes/suprf1y cams in it
Holy crap....Wow ...it pulls HARD all the way to redline :D
the upper 2000rpm of the range are crazy and it helped the mid range too
it did lose some power just off idle...but who cares
if you are building a SOHC 16V .ya got to get a cam for it..IMHO
RedGreen


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 11:07 am 
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Thanks for the feedback.

Quote:
OBD 1 ecu


Which one is that?

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 11:19 am 
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not sure..i found it in a junkyard...i think it's a obd1 because it did not throw a code
when i removed the 2nd o sensor .. marked F or E-8 label is messed up
the one i had before was for a CA auto car


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 12:15 pm 
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redgreen wrote:
not sure..i found it in a junkyard...i think it's a obd1 because it did not throw a code
when i removed the 2nd o sensor .. marked F or E-8 label is messed up
the one i had before was for a CA auto car


There are no OBD1 ecu's for the MK5 cars. It can take awhile for the code for the secondary O2 sensor to show up, but it will unless the check engine bulb is toasted. :lol:

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 12:24 pm 
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are the great white north cars ..all obd2...?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 02, 2011 12:25 pm 
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Yup.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 9:41 am 
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update on mikes cam
rallycrossed the car sunday . in the mud. i was thinking the cam lost some power at low rpms
but that is not true. i was just not used to the alum flywheel and pulley. and HD clutch
so i was stalling it a lot ..this cam profile pulls hard from idle to red line.seamlessly
proof..fastest 2wd car ..only beaten for the overall by a full on subaru sti rally car
ha ha ...http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/show ... hp?t=20379


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 11:47 am 
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Has anyone ever done a high compression build on one of these engines? I am thinking 10.5 or so. Would this be worth the effort with all the other mods on here?


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 1:08 pm 
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Read my previous post in this thread. It clarifies what I did with fairly specific results, including gt pistons which brought the compression to around 10:1 or so.

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1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 2:02 pm 
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10.6-1 I believe.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 5:55 pm 
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oh that is great! I really appreciate you guys posting the results up here, It helps us new kids get an idea of expected results.

Again, newbie question as I am still getting used to the car. Which engine are we considering the GT? I could assume we are talking 1300 DOHC... Does the year matter for the pistons?

HA! I found this bit.. http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php? ... ompression
Answered my own question, thanks to the search feature and some patience.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 12:21 pm 
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I want to first thank the moderator for this excellent post. I am a newbie and an amateur so please excuse me in advance for any apparent lack of understanding in my questions. I have a stock 1.3 16V, no mods on the engine whatsoever, but running FI at 0.5bar (7 psi or so) of boost. I also have a add-on ECU (HKS IS) sold to me by the tuner (I think I got ripped off after reading many of the posts here). Anyways, I would like to try a larger TB and 3tech's cam, but was wonderinf whether I will need to re-program my ECU to adjust to the larger air intake and 3tech's cams? Also any recommendations on clutches that would match best with the new setup?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 4:29 pm 
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FYI, the lash adjustment for this head is as follows


Note: When checking valve clearance, insert thickness gauge between camshaft and cam-riding face of rocker arms

cold
intake .005 to .007"
exhaust .009 to .011"
hot
.007 to .009
.011 to .013

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 12:20 pm 
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Hello guys i tried to install a baleno (esteem) TB in my 1.3 16v swift (2002) and it looks like it won't fit.
Well what i mean is that the TPS sensor socket is not the same my car has a 3port socket and the fresh bought Esteem TB sensor(nippon Denso) has a 4port socket i tought that it should be a complete bolt-on.
So i need help or more like an answer are in the USA all esteems made with 3port socket that are bolt on or only those that were made before or after an X year?
(I'm not the best with english so sorry for the messy writing)

Something else: i found an 50mm TB for 1.3 16v a complete bolt on. Is 50mm too much or should i aim for that?
I know that less is sometimes more and 50mm sounds a bit too much for me.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 1:48 pm 
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45 is plenty for power and driveability. The esteem tb has yo be from the dis esteem (I think 97 and newer 1.6). The difference is the tps. I made the same mistake.Toyota Camry tb bolt on and are 50 but you have to port match manifold. Not worth it unless you do cam and head work or some to actually use the additional air.

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00 swift 2dr turbo 1.3 5spd 4.10. Sold to friend.
93 geo metro with 96 1.3 5spd swap turboed at 5psi. roommates.
14 ford Mustang v6.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 3:22 pm 
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So i have to buy a TB of an 96 or older esteems .
Or just the tps sensor? Will it fit the new one?
Or do i have to buy a whole 95-96 esteem TB?

BTW u helped me really much


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 4:37 pm 
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97 and NEWER tb.

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GEO MAFIA!
00 swift 2dr turbo 1.3 5spd 4.10. Sold to friend.
93 geo metro with 96 1.3 5spd swap turboed at 5psi. roommates.
14 ford Mustang v6.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2013 8:40 am 
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Ok I made a huge miss :)
My car had a 45mm TB from the beginning.
So I just ordered a 50mm TB a complete Bolt-on.


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 6:18 am 
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Location: Greece
Hey guys I have a 1997 Baleno 1.3lt with the same engine,does anyone know what is the max valve lift that can be used with the stock valve train? The Federal Mogul online catalogue and the local dealer mention both that the valve springs are the same with GTi ones!
With maximum shaved head and MLS gasket what will be the compression of the engine?


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