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 Post subject: Rebuilding a distributor
PostPosted: Fri Nov 05, 2010 11:30 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 10:43 pm
Posts: 720
Location: Texas 75150
Attachment:
IMG_1044.JPG
This project started out to help a friend of mine stop his oil leak from the distributor. Replacing the outside o ring helped, but his distributor was leaking oil past the shaft.
Attachment:
IMG_1068.JPG

I was able to find the seal and the bearing at my local Bearing, Belt, and Chain supplier.
Attachment:
IMG_1127.JPG

The distributor came out really well. What amazed me was how much better the car ran after rebuilding the distributor.This worked out so well I have done 3 more distributors, one was for my car. Also both 3 and 4 cylinders distributors used the same set of bearings and seals.

The distributor shaft had a groove worn into it by the old seal so I made an installer that raised the seal in the housing about 0.050" so I was not wearing on the groove. I also set the air gap on the pickup to 0.010".

I can write this up more if anyone is interested?


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Fainya
97 Geo Metro LSI,1.3L-GT-DOHC-16v,4.10 5-speed,A/C,170,000,suspension lowered 1",4 wheel disk brakes,15"alloy wheels with 185/50-15 Toyo's,GT bucket seats,analog oil pressure gauge,cruise control, new paint job. 40 mpg at 65 mph.
Good, fast, cheap. You only get two.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 12:21 am 
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Location: Regina, SK
What is the part number for the seal?

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My cars:

J. McBean: '98 Suzuki Swift 1.3L 16v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk5" Made in Canada
The Mini Rattler: '94 Suzuki Swift .993L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk3" Made in Canada *The Winter Beater*
B. Berry: '90 Chevrolet Turbo Sprint 1.0L 6v SOHC 5sp+ "Mk2" Made in Japan

I got 18MPG in a 3cyl with a 5 speed manual 4dr, '93 Metro! :yeahyeah


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 3:30 am 
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Location: Breda, Netherlands
fainya wrote:
I can write this up more if anyone is interested?

I am :cheers:


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 10:02 pm 
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Location: Texas 75150
Seal number i got on the receipt is MMS10X20X5ADL seal size is 10mm X 20mm X 5mm
Bearing number is ORS 60002RS ZKL

As for the write up, Give me some time as it will be long.

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Fainya
97 Geo Metro LSI,1.3L-GT-DOHC-16v,4.10 5-speed,A/C,170,000,suspension lowered 1",4 wheel disk brakes,15"alloy wheels with 185/50-15 Toyo's,GT bucket seats,analog oil pressure gauge,cruise control, new paint job. 40 mpg at 65 mph.
Good, fast, cheap. You only get two.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 10:17 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
Nice.
Kindly include how you cleaned it up; she's mighty clean!

Oh, and nice vise. :thumbsup:

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
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DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 1:54 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
it looks like glass bead blasting to me. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 7:25 am 
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Location: Texas 75150
I have glass beaded the housing. I have a fairly good machine shop set up in my garage. It is what I do to make a living.

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Fainya
97 Geo Metro LSI,1.3L-GT-DOHC-16v,4.10 5-speed,A/C,170,000,suspension lowered 1",4 wheel disk brakes,15"alloy wheels with 185/50-15 Toyo's,GT bucket seats,analog oil pressure gauge,cruise control, new paint job. 40 mpg at 65 mph.
Good, fast, cheap. You only get two.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 11:43 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 2:16 pm
Posts: 128
Location: Minnesota
I have that darn leaking distributor, too. Replaced the outside O-ring, but I believe there is something else leaking. Just gotta take it apart sometime I guess.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 5:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2008 3:33 pm
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Location: Caribbean / PR
Fainya:

Can you provide sources for the bearing and the shaft seal for the distributor rebuild?

Thanks, luiso16


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 5:16 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 10:43 pm
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Location: Texas 75150
Sorry to take so long to reply. I have been really busy this year with work.
I get the seal and bearing from the local Bearing, belt, and chain supplier. Usually under $10 for both.
I never go to the auto parts store for bearings and seals. They usually charge twice the price
compared to the bearing stores.
The early Geo's use a larger bearing and seal then the later model Geo's. But I have never had a problem getting either size.

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Fainya
97 Geo Metro LSI,1.3L-GT-DOHC-16v,4.10 5-speed,A/C,170,000,suspension lowered 1",4 wheel disk brakes,15"alloy wheels with 185/50-15 Toyo's,GT bucket seats,analog oil pressure gauge,cruise control, new paint job. 40 mpg at 65 mph.
Good, fast, cheap. You only get two.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 10:21 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2009 6:27 pm
Posts: 54
Location: Springfield, Oregon
phantomrt wrote:
I have that darn leaking distributor, too. Replaced the outside O-ring, but I believe there is something else leaking. Just gotta take it apart sometime I guess.


Under the bearing in the top of the distributor is a spring seal. THAT is what is leaking. You will have to press the shaft out the top once you remove the drive gear on the bottom. There is a steel bushing in the barrel at the gear end which does not need to be removed. Once you press out the shaft (make sure you removed the interrupter assembly etc, in the top end first) then you will have to pull the bearing out the top, and then the spring seal. Pay attention to how the seal was inserted.

Once you install the new seal, then you install the bearing (use a socket so you only apply pressure to the outside race). After the bearing is seated, then replace the shaft (be careful if you hammer it. I would recommend a large vise or a bearing press to do this if you have access to one). Then the gear on the bottom is replaced and you should be all set.

Did I forget anything?

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2014 Prius "C" Model 2
1990 Geo Metro Xfi (for sale)
1997 Buick LeSabre
1994 Chevy Z71 pickup (250k miles) (also for sale)


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 10:23 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2009 6:27 pm
Posts: 54
Location: Springfield, Oregon
The distributor shaft had a groove worn into it by the old seal so I made an installer that raised the seal in the housing about 0.050" so I was not wearing on the groove. I also set the air gap on the pickup to 0.010".

I can write this up more if anyone is interested?[/quote]

Where did you get the cap gasket? I need a couple of those. One for the distributor I still have to rebuild, and one for the completed one.

Thanks, OregonJim

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2014 Prius "C" Model 2
1990 Geo Metro Xfi (for sale)
1997 Buick LeSabre
1994 Chevy Z71 pickup (250k miles) (also for sale)


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 11:42 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:09 pm
Posts: 4998
Location: Palm Springs: Too hot from June to Oct.!
They are available aftermarket and I believe Standard Motor Products makes them.
Part numbers are in a thread on Geo Metro Forum.
Maybe a member can post them here to help you.
Also, it would be nice if this was either stickied or moved to another section once the part numbers were
listed.

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DIY Broken Bolt Removal: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=41042
DIY Clutch Adjustment: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48281
DIY Wheel Bearings: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29003
DIY Shocks: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=45483
DIY Wheel Align: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42479
Once you get the cars dialed-in (compression, leaks, bearings, alignment, brakes) swap in new rubber and glass, you've got something which should last for years!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 1:45 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 10:43 pm
Posts: 720
Location: Texas 75150
One of the things I do but forgot to mention here is I run a drill bit down the oil drain hole in the cam bearing end cap for the distributor to drain better. Don't enlarge the hole, just clean out the crud.

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Fainya
97 Geo Metro LSI,1.3L-GT-DOHC-16v,4.10 5-speed,A/C,170,000,suspension lowered 1",4 wheel disk brakes,15"alloy wheels with 185/50-15 Toyo's,GT bucket seats,analog oil pressure gauge,cruise control, new paint job. 40 mpg at 65 mph.
Good, fast, cheap. You only get two.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 5:42 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 07, 2009 6:27 pm
Posts: 54
Location: Springfield, Oregon
Where can I get the distributor cap gasket? That's the one thing I am missing on my rebuild.

Nice pix, and the bead blasting looks wonderful. Only thing missing is some pretty orange paint hah hah.

OregonJim

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2014 Prius "C" Model 2
1990 Geo Metro Xfi (for sale)
1997 Buick LeSabre
1994 Chevy Z71 pickup (250k miles) (also for sale)


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 2:07 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 21, 2012 1:45 am
Posts: 1
Location: Sacramento, CA United States
OregonJim wrote:
Where can I get the distributor cap gasket? That's the one thing I am missing on my rebuild.
...
OregonJim


Yeah.. took me forever to locate one when I needed it- My local Napa counter folks could not locate it at all without me bringing them the P/N.

Napa Auto Parts - $3
Search for "Distributor Cap Gasket" (napaonline.com)
Part Number: ECH EP854G

ALSO - FYI - the distributor "pick-up" assembly at Napa has a 3-yr warranty ($135), although the autozone part has only a 3-mo warr. ($75). How come I know this? The plastic housing of my pick-up assy. disintegrated a few months back and left fine copper wire wrapped all around the shaft.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 9:56 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2011 4:11 pm
Posts: 318
Location: quebec
Hi again. I will still be sending you a distributor to rebuild. But I still have this old burnt one to play around with. Do you think you can post up some info and pics on how to reinstall and properly time the commutor wheel? Thanks!


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 7:52 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2015 2:28 pm
Posts: 38
Location: Canada
car runs a lothetter with a rebuilt distrbutor? or about the same as doing a cap n rotor?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 6:15 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2005 1:32 am
Posts: 254
Location: Kitchener, ON
I just finished rebuilding a dizzy for a 1.3 SOHC. If anyone in the area needs bearings, seals or help, I've got some spares. :)

95pontiacfirefly wrote:
car runs a lothetter with a rebuilt distrbutor? or about the same as doing a cap n rotor?
Shouldn't run any different. The nitrile seals and O-rings tend to need replacing after 10-15 years and the bearings are likely in need of a re-grease or replacement at that time too.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 8:19 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 10:43 pm
Posts: 720
Location: Texas 75150
Cowboy,
You sent me the burnt up distributor as what was suppose to be a good rebuildable core. It was not rebuildable.
As for helping you? after the core I got back? I don't think so..

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Fainya
97 Geo Metro LSI,1.3L-GT-DOHC-16v,4.10 5-speed,A/C,170,000,suspension lowered 1",4 wheel disk brakes,15"alloy wheels with 185/50-15 Toyo's,GT bucket seats,analog oil pressure gauge,cruise control, new paint job. 40 mpg at 65 mph.
Good, fast, cheap. You only get two.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 10:17 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2011 4:11 pm
Posts: 318
Location: quebec
That post I made was like 2 years ago. The burnt up distributor I was playing with was the one I sent you. Sorry you couldn't use any parts off of it. I didn't take it apart or inspect any of it. I thought it might have some reusable parts in it, so I sent it to you and let you decide.I was trying to help out the swift community by giving up an old distributor, in hopes that you could use parts from it. It was not intended to be rebuilt. I paid you for your services and everything was fine. Until now.


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