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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 10:53 am 
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Location: Barbados
Hey, how is this going thur far? :) How is the charging rate and how much AMPs is your altenater? Does the battery pack gets really hot while charging?

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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 1:14 pm 
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Working just like the stock battery did. It doesn't get hot, and has plenty of reserve to start the car a bunch of times in a row. So far OK down to 10 degrees C. We'll see how it works when it gets colder.

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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 2:24 pm 
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Location: Alabama
How would the 8 cell hold up against starting up 20-50 times a day? It would be run for about 15 minutes in between starts. Would the 12 cell be a better choice? I figure the weight difference between 8/12 is negligible due to the stock one weighing as much as it does.


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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 2:42 pm 
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Location: Christchurch NZ, quake capital
It will be fine, I did a motorkhana last week, started the car 15 times, running for no more than 90 secs for each run and that was over a 3 hour period and I have the 8 cell equiv and didn't have any problems.


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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 10:33 am 
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Location: Alabama
Thank you for that review. :)


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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 4:23 pm 
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The temp dropped to 0 one night last week. The car turned over a little slow, but it fired 3 times in a row without any problems. I've heard that they warm up with use in the cold weather, so they get better the more/longer you crank the starter. I'll keep driving it until the snow flies, so we'll see for sure how it works in the cold.

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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 5:02 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
now that i have an alternator that doesn't charge at a deficit vs. load, i'd be interested in seeing whether or not i could blow one of those up. :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 6:58 pm 
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Location: Vancouver, WA
Bump. How are these working out now that its getting colder?

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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 8:51 pm 
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No problems. As cold as -10 and sitting for 3-5 days and it starts fine. Takes a few tries, and cranks a little slow, but it always fires. Keep in mind it's 12-1 compression.

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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 10:02 pm 
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suprf1y wrote:
No problems. As cold as -10 and sitting for 3-5 days and it starts fine. Takes a few tries, and cranks a little slow, but it always fires. Keep in mind it's 12-1 compression.


Love the reviews. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 12:34 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2010 8:49 pm
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Location: Alabama
I bought one! It gets down to 5-10 F here, but I don't usually need to drive in those temps. It's up to 20+ most of the time I need to drive.


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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 3:10 pm 
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Location: Alabama
Got mine installed today. Started the car just as fast as the lead acid battery, and weighs almost nothing. Just be sure to buy the one with the quick disconnect... lol


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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 3:58 pm 
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Location: Wahiawa, HI
Hey, anybody left their lights on yet? I read that discharging below 8% will ruin the battery :huh:

Also, I read the jump-start procedure outlined by Superf1y and not sure if I am tracking--do you leave the battery connected? Would it work without damaging the battery? See above...

My fancy Braille battery I got on eBay for $100 looked like it had been stored in a wet vat of salt--it might have worked ok, but it also might have caught on fire as it deteriorated further and the seller refunded my money, no questions asked. Which leaves me free to pick up one of these A123 batteries, saving an additional 6.8 lbs of weight.

I'll probably get one even if I could ruin it by leaving my lights on all night (not easy to do, but I am sometimes spectacularly non-observant...) but I'd like to know...


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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 4:43 pm 
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Posts: 367
Location: Roumania
Hello,
I run a ytz10s battery made by "volton" , it's starts the car several times in a row without issues , weight is 2.8 kg and it costs aprox 50$ over here.
I would have gone for the lithium a123 battery but i didn't have the money at the time .I'm sure the lithium battery is ok since it has more puch than a standard mf battery .
The ytz10s has 10amp and 180cca.
P.S: please mount the battery with a very short wire to the starter. My oem harness from 87 had issues when i installed it in the original battery terminals and wires.

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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 7:48 pm 
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I have left the amp on in my car by accident twice while working on it. The first time the battery went down to 3V, and I was able to charge it back no problem. The second time, I left the charger on too long, and one of the cells split. From what I've read, I'm lucky I didn't burn the car to the ground :shock:

Now I'm using the 4 cell from my bike and so far it's working. I imagine it won't once the weather cools down.

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 1:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 23, 2005 6:36 pm
Posts: 64
Location: Riverside, CA
What kind of charger are you using? I emailed the Ebay seller and he said any car battery charger would work, but I'm dubious. I use this Diehard charger: http://www.sears.com/diehard-microproce ... ockType=G8

I ask because my '93 Metro has had a parasitic leak for some time. I hope to get it fixed before I install the battery, but I also just want to start driving the car again, after a year in the garage getting repainted.

Brian

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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 8:54 pm 
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Location: Wahiawa, HI
Well, I don't even have one of these (yet) but I followed Superf1y's advice earlier in the thread and did some research here:

http://www.turntechbattery.com/TurnTech%20Battery/FAQ.html

I believe that vendor sells a product with similar LiFePo chemistry and limitations to the A123 batteries sold on ebay.

From the FAQ:

Quote:
When using a charger you should use and amperage setting lower than the capacity of the battery. For instance a 5Ah battery should be charged at less than 5A. Battery tenders with a “desulfate mode” will not work with the battery as the charger will detect that the battery needs to be “desulfated” this mode runs higher voltages with high pulse currents and is not recommended. It is recommended that the charger be used to top of the battery and that the battery is not left on float for long periods of time unless the bike has a draw while sitting (For instance a Suzuki DRZ-s has a draw while sitting.


So your charger is fine in the 2ah trickle mode, but could damage the battery in the quick charge modes.

And:

Quote:
The batteries should not be left on a trickle charger. Unlike lead acid the batteries behave best if they are left alone. If the battery has been run low putting the battery on a trickle charger the night before use is fine. If the bike [Suzuki variant] has a draw, or drain, while sitting the battery must be kept on a charger as the draw will eventually drain that battery leading to possible damage. If storing the recommended storage method is to disconnect the battery. Put it on a charger overnight before it goes into storage. Then put on a charger while prepping the bike, and reconnect and start. The battery may be a bit sluggish after storage. Within a few starts it should be back to normal though.

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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 6:21 am 
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Location: Christchurch NZ, quake capital
Yep agree with all above, these batteries are deadly and if they are discharged will suck up what ever current you give them so a current limited charger is a good idea, I found with mine that when it's fully charged after running in the car then it's voltage is well over 14v which is higher than the charging voltage of most chargers.
Attachment:
PS-817.jpg
PS-817.jpg [ 72.1 KIB | Viewed 3826 times ]

This is what I use, just requires a 17-18vac input and has current limiting 350mA or 700mA on the battery output, it also has a pot so I can wind up the voltage to 14.2v.

Honestly I think I have charged the battery using my charger once in the last two years, I also strongly recommend getting an under drive pully to slow down the alternator to prevent over charging.


Last edited by Dattman on Sat Sep 15, 2012 2:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2012 8:52 am 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
A few things I noticed while recharging the batteries I've accidentally discharged.
I have 2 chargers. A plain 40 year old 6 amp charger and a fancy new electronic one.
The electronic one did not work. The old one did, but I left it a little too long the first time (which worked) and the battery was showing 18V. It worked fine after that until I discharged it again, and left the charger on long enough to burn the shrink wrap off, and split a cell. I wouldn't fool around with these batteries. If you think you have problems with your system, fix the problem first, before you toast an expensive battery.

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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 1:59 pm 
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Posts: 367
Location: Roumania
I have a c-tek battery charger that has a recondition option for acid batteries.
No problems so far .

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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:44 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2010 8:49 pm
Posts: 95
Location: Alabama
I have a very slightly electrical drain somewhere on my car. I have the 12 cell version of that battery and it drained it completely down two or three times. (when left for 48+ hours without being started)

Since then I have installed a battery isolator switch that I flip every time I plan to leave it for more than 24 hours.

To re-charge the battery I just jump started the car and ran it for my commute. (~1 hour at 55mph)

Car: 1993 Geo Metro w/ an underdrive pulley.


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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 6:01 pm 
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I'm on the bandwagon.

Just finished rigging up one of these:

Image

:alien:

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http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=57216


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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 6:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 01, 2010 8:49 pm
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Location: Alabama
Dattman wrote:
Honestly I think I have charged the battery using my charger once in the last two years, I also strongly recommend getting an under drive pully to slow down the alternator to prevent over charging.

So if I have an under drive pulley and rarely go above 5,000 rpms, I'm not really risking too much?


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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 8:00 pm 
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There's no risk. I run mine in my GT with no underdrive and don't have any problems... that I don't create myself by leaving stuff on when I shouldn't.

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 Post subject: Re: Racing battery
PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 8:56 pm 
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Quote:
rarely go above 5,000 rpms


I'd say you're not risking enough :wink:

I suppose hypermiling requires as much attention to weight savings as racing :roll: but otherwise there's no reason to try that hard.

I've had mine long enough to stop worrying about it though--so far there isn't any difference except a brighter dome light, faster cranking, and less weight.


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