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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 10:17 pm 
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Location: Monroe, WA
Started in on the already torn down trans this afternoon. I decided to start in on the main shaft as it looked a little easier.

First press the input bearing off. Didn't fight too hard.

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Then I flipped it over and realized that the small 2" bearing separator I have is not going to cut it. Off to Harbor Freight to find a 3". I found a set with a 2 and 3 inch separator and a puller and a bunch of other stuff I'll probably never use, but oh well. I get it home, open the box and had to laugh! The bigger plate would only open up to 2 inches with the bolts that came in the kit. The small one actually opened to 2 1/4!!! Totally worthless!!! I lucked out and found some 6 inch long 1/2" bolts that fit the holes better than the cheap metric junk they sent with it. So with my new plate I was finally able to get a grip on 4th gear and get the tail bearing and 5th gear inner race popped off.

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Once those pieces are slid off and the syncro removed you can stand it up and see the clip that needs to come off to press the shift collar off.

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Put the plate under 3rd gear and push the collar off.

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Finally, all stripped.

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'95 Metro 1.0 / 5 spd
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 10:23 pm 
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Now to start back together. I like to ruff up the surface of the gear just a touch so the new syncro has something to wear into. I had a piece of worn 220 grit laying around that worked nicely.

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And slide it back on. Also make sure you haven't turned around the shift collar.

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Make sure when pressing the collar back on that you index the notches on the syncro so it goes together without hitting.

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And press it back on.

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And replace the clip!

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Then fix up 4th gear and slide it, the inner bearing and new syncro on. I've been using some light weight trans oil to prelube everything as I go back together.

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I found a thick washer to use under the bearing to make sure I'm pushing on the center hub and not the outer race. Then hold up 4th gear keeping the dogs in line with the notches in the syncro.

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Then use the same washer to press the 5th gear inner race.

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Then push on the new input bearing. I kind of broke my own rule here by pressing on the inner and outer race, but it was flat and this bearing goes on way easier than the others.

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All that work to replace 4 things that didn't have anything wrong with them!!!

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I looked at it for a while, then figured "Better get started on that counter shaft!" It's going to be a real pain I can already tell...

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 10:29 pm 
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I went after the counter shaft. First, press the end bearing and top gear off.

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With those 2 pressed, the next collar just slips off.

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Then put the plates under 2nd gear to press off 3rd.

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With the 2 gears and the 2nd gear syncro off, next is to pull the hub snap ring.

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I setup the plates under 1st gear to push the shift hub, but it slid off by hand. Pleasant surprise!

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So there it is 'almost' naked... I forgot about the other end bearing tho!

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That required the torch to loosen it's grip.

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Here's the problem children of this box, 2nd gear! I was hoping a new syncro would fix it, but these two pieces have just about had it...

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Time for SPARE PARTS!!!

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 10:32 pm 
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Quite a while ago a good friend of mine (that works in a junk yard) got me a tranny out of a Swift. I didn't think I was going to need it, but I was wrong. :D

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You know? These things come apart WAY easier the second time!

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Only took around a 1/2 hour to strip it clear down and get to the gears I was hoping would be not only the same, but in better shape than mine. Luck was with me, It was in pretty good shape. No idea how many miles it had so it was really a crap shoot.

Old shift hub on the left, new one on the right. You can see the shiny spots on the old one, almost worn totally round!

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To confuse you a bit I switched them around here. Old one on the right, new one on the left. See how much more meat is on the shift dogs?

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Just to clarify, there is no way new oil would've have brought 1st and second gear back! It was the badly worn teeth on the syncros along with the (extra) slots that had been cut around the outside of them. This let them turn too much in the shift hub when shifted, right past the spot where the dogs could pop around and engage. Too much slam shifting over those 165k miles I guess.

I opted to re-use my 1st gear as it looked better than the donor box. I slid all 3 pieces back on with 2 new syncros, looks good!

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Then press 3rd, the spacer, and 4th back on.

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Alright! Here it is, ready to put the end bearings on. The pile of used parts behind.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 10:37 pm 
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Here's what happens to the second gear syncro....

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The extra slot worn in the outside lets it twist (in the 1-2 slider) to the point that when down shifted the rounded edges all hit each other and can't decide which way to slide together.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 10:42 pm 
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I then started getting the case halves cleaned up. First, get the last few pieces out of them.

Pop the input seal

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And the pinion shaft race

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And the primary shift bolt

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Then you can slide the shift rod out and knock out the seal.

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I should've taken this plate off as I was tearing it down, made it a little tricky to separate the cases as this plate locks one shift rail in. :) I had to use an impact driver on it they were in there pretty hard.

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Once the plate is off, you can save the shim and tap out the bearing race that's under it.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 10:45 pm 
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Ok, finally get to put this thing back together!

First, get those bearings off the differential.

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And the new ones on. I use a lot of wrist pins from various engines as drifts. They sure come in handy.

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Here's the front case all cleaned up with the input seal, bearing race, shifter and seal installed.

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And now with the differential gears dropped in.

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Almost forgot! Need to get the bearings put on the pinion shaft! Use the old bearing with the rollers removed for a tool to hammer them on so you don't mess them up.

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Then assemble the shafts and shift rails together like this.

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I put the 5/rev shift rails in first.

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Then drop the whole bunch back in there. Be careful with the input seal as you lower the gears. The input bearing (and the pinion gear) will need a little wiggling or tapping to get it down all the way. May have to check the shift forks and rails to make sure they aren't binding up as you go.

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Then you can slip the reverse idler in. Just put the gear where it goes and then put the shaft down through it and into its hole. Leave the threaded hole the right direction so you can find it with the bolt after you put the other half case over it.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 10:47 pm 
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Good time to re-install the 3 top detent springs and balls. Just remember the long spring goes in the middle.

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Then smear some grey silicone around the case surface and put the other side on.

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You can now drop the other end race on the pinion shaft. Tap it down then put your old shim on top before you put the plate on. You are supposed to put a straight edge across it and check for .003 or .004 of an inch protrusion. Just enough to have a little pre-load on the bearings. It looked fine so together it goes!

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Now, before I forget. Let's put the bolt in that reverse idler shaft.

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And start working on 5th gear.

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Once you put the shift fork on, you have a few things to do. Make sure you put the 2 snap rings on, the one roll pin, the ball and cover screw, and tighten down the nut on the other gear.

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Might as well put in the left side drive axle seal now.

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Then flip it around and slide the main shift rail in.

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Once it's in; you'll need to hook that up to the other shifter that comes in the back. I used a magnet to lower the piece down the hole, get in on the ball and then slid onto the main shaft and the bolt dropped in

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Then I put the 2 covers on.

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Another bolt not to forget is the main shift guide.

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Then put in the right side axle seal and primary shifter detent ball and spring.

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And the cover for the main shifter.

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And last but not least, the rear motor mount bracket!

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This puppy is DONE!!! Now to start in on the engine and order a clutch. ;)

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 9:57 am 
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One thing, before you decide to drive on it, just put it or leave it on the jack stands, and leave it out of gear, start the engine, let out the clutch, let it run for a few minutes, then put it into first and let it run for a few minutes, then drive on it.

Gets the gearbox oil everywhere it needs to be, and there will be a huge reduction in initial wear. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 11:46 pm 
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Nice work, I've been meaning to do a post like this, but never have a camera handy when I do a tranny. Great post, excellent detail. I do a lot, and I think you covered every base very well.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 12:21 pm 
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Very good! :D

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:57 pm 
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At this point, would it be possible to get a "re-geared" gear set to change the 5th gear ratio for better fuel economy. I get on the highway and at 65 I'm turning around 3500 rpm and would like to gear it so that I am turning closer to 2000-2500 at 65.
Thanks for your reply
95-3banger wrote:
And start working on 5th gear.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 11:24 pm 
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I have examined lots of these with that in mind. All 5th gear sets seem to have the same tooth count. The only way to re-gear is changing the crown and pinion set while trans is apart. Of course this changes all gear ratios.

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1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
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1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 9:56 am 
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codyb76 wrote:
I have examined lots of these with that in mind. All 5th gear sets seem to have the same tooth count. The only way to re-gear is changing the crown and pinion set while trans is apart. Of course this changes all gear ratios.


But would it be possible? Say you have a friend with a machine shop and access to some 300M billet.
I'm proposing to add one tooth to the input side of 5th gear then reduce the tooth count on the output side the appropriate amount to keep your mesh correct. This would effectively "gear down" 5th gear to a more manageable engine speed at highway speed.

This is all hypothetical.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 4:14 pm 
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Where can new synchros and hubs be bought from?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 6:44 pm 
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GTDave wrote:
codyb76 wrote:
I have examined lots of these with that in mind. All 5th gear sets seem to have the same tooth count. The only way to re-gear is changing the crown and pinion set while trans is apart. Of course this changes all gear ratios.


But would it be possible? Say you have a friend with a machine shop and access to some 300M billet.
I'm proposing to add one tooth to the input side of 5th gear then reduce the tooth count on the output side the appropriate amount to keep your mesh correct. This would effectively "gear down" 5th gear to a more manageable engine speed at highway speed.

This is all hypothetical.


hypothetically speaking i would be your best friend if you can do this. granted 300m is a bit exotic for this application. :)



any ideas if this shim might be available seperately?
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both my swift and esteem trans were missing it when i tore them down. i know for a fact the esteem trans had been rebuilt previously when i split it for my swap.


excellent write up. i planned on doing this when i did mine but hate taking pics when working.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 4:41 pm 
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Does anyone know which orientation this piece goes in? I'm having some 2nd gear grinding after a rebuild (replaced almost all bearings + replaced all synchros), was wondering if maybe this went in the wrong way:

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 6:54 pm 
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Empedocles99 wrote:
Does anyone know which orientation this piece goes in? I'm having some 2nd gear grinding after a rebuild (replaced almost all bearings + replaced all synchros), was wondering if maybe this went in the wrong way:

Image



Whether it is the MK1 or later 'black box' tranny, you can find the answer in Step 12 of the 25 Step DIY Transmission Repair thread. I believe it is the 4th photo above the one where the girl is splitting the case on the black box tranny (second tranny).
The idea of looking at that DIY thread might be galling, but you will find the correct orientation.
At first glance, it looks like you are holding it upside down in your picture.

Some people have worked unselfishly to help others, and if they've screwed up in their DIY threads, it would be good to know.
If flipping that part causes shifting problems, that is important to mention and would be a help to the next guy.

Good luck with your transmission and hope to hear your feedback.
Who knows, you might even take the time to put that picture in this thread.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 7:51 pm 
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Image

They both have the part oriented the same way, the part is bent towards what appears to be where the rear of the car is... I'm going to use the fact that it bends towards the space between two screws on the cover to orient myself.

I just remember putting it together, and the service manual didn't really show which way to put it in.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 8:59 pm 
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oh yes, I dealt with that issue myself on my rebuild. the bolt face should be parallel with the cover when the positioner is in center/neutral

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 9:20 pm 
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Did you drive it with the piece in backwards? If so, what were the consequences? It's hard for me to picture in my head what this would cause.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 3:12 pm 
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Sorry to post up this up and then vanish guys! It's been a while now, but I don't remember that piece even being able to go in the wrong way. Mine shifted fine for a while but the pesky 1st and 2nd syncros didn't last long before I couldn't speed shift any more. Then I noticed the engine smoking black so I parked it for a while. With the gas prices jacking back up I'm working on it again.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 5:04 pm 
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That piece can't go in the wrong way unless you try really hard :lol:

So, basically, if the trans is definitely in neutral and you're having trouble, try flipping it around. If anybody reading this is also cross referencing "Dr. Bill's" disassembly thread, note that he goes to great lengths to put it in backwards :huh:

Also, about shims for the countershaft:

While Dr. Bill doesn't even mention it, and Phil's tolerances didn't change, I found I needed a thicker shim or shims when I put my case back together. Phil convinced me I shouldn't use shims cut out of those magnets they send you from Rockauto, NAPA didn't have anything generic, and I wasn't going to wait until I could get something from Suzuki :roll:

The helpful guys as NAPA did suggest using a snap ring and grinding off the ends to make it fit. That would have worked, but it was just a little too thick. In the end I cut shims out of some readily available aluminum:

Image

It took 4 shims to get exactly the clearance I wanted (close to the maximum protrusion because I knew the aluminum would crush down a little). Getting them to lay flat was not easy, but this solution has worked so far...

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 4:56 pm 
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Teeth wrote:
That piece can't go in the wrong way unless you try really hard :lol:
It took 4 shims to get exactly the clearance I wanted (close to the maximum protrusion because I knew the aluminum would crush down a little). Getting them to lay flat was not easy, but this solution has worked so far...


How do you measure the clearance, and how much is good to aim for? I didn't shim mine on rebuild, and while the synchros improved it, it won't go in to 2nd very well. Could be bent forks or who knows what else.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 6:39 pm 
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FSM says the protrusion should be 0.08 to 0.12 mm--use a feeler gauge under a straight edge.

I sort of doubt that's your issue, but I am really not an expert here :huh:

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