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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sun May 09, 2010 9:14 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:52 am
Posts: 36
Location: Maryland
Didn't see it in the list, but my 97 4dr 1.3 has a rear bar, I'll measure it tonight if I get home before it gets dark.


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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 11:58 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 14, 2003 11:31 pm
Posts: 2457
Location: New York State
DickyDck wrote:
Didn't see it in the list, but my 97 4dr 1.3 has a rear bar, I'll measure it tonight if I get home before it gets dark.

It's in my list. You should have 24mm up front and 18mm in the back. I have a parts car just like yours.

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1994 Metro - MPH project (getting a DOHC G13B)
1994 Metro - MPG project (getting an XFi G10)
1992 Swift - Parts car (gone)
1991 Swift - Parts car (gone)
1990 Swift - Parts car
1997 Metro - Parts car (gone)
1993 Metro - Parts car
1989 Swift GTi - Parts car
1998 Metro - Parts car


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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 2:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2008 2:34 am
Posts: 367
Location: Roumania
New anti roll bar found:
Chevrolet matiz or matiz II front swaybar fits the mk1 gti .
It is 24 mm and needs the mounting clamps to be moved 3 cm to the interior on each side.
It's easy to mount and if anyone cares i could supply photos of the mods.

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PostPosted: Tue May 25, 2010 3:19 pm 
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Location: Edmonton, Alberta
ROV wrote:
if anyone cares i could supply photos of the mods.



Pics are always good for something new :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 11:02 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2008 7:47 pm
Posts: 1292
Location: Trinidad, W.I.
Thread bump for good information from first post on pg.1!

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:49 am 
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Joined: Sat May 18, 2013 12:48 am
Posts: 170
Location: San Diego CA
I have a 93 geo metro, plan on adding sway bars for greater handling and stability, what sizes do you guys recommend? Car is stock and only lowered on H&R springs. Thanks guys!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:19 pm
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Location: vancouver island, canada
Go big or go home. The ones I use on my 91 are from a 95+ so the biggest you can get without going after market. But be carefull mounting the rear. They tend to hit the ext. If not done right. And yours being a 93 I don't think you will have the rear mounts so you will need to cut them from a car or make your own and weld/bolt them in.

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92 geo metro 1.0L 5 spd. 2 dr Soon to be my turbo swap car. (Dragonfly) sold
91 pontiac firefly, 1.0L 2dr auto. stock. (The crap can) sold
91 chevy sprint. 1.0L 5 spd. My first turbo swap. (Red rocket) now the purple nurple
95 geo metro. 1.3L auto parts car. (Scrap)
91 chevy sprint turbo, blueboy keeping it "stock"


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 12:48 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2014 1:18 am
Posts: 212
Location: Slovenia
it's not that simple.. if you want to have car balanced you need to choose right anti roll bars.. stiffer front bar will increase understeer, while stiffer rear bar will increase oversteer.. you can also use polyurethane bushing instead of rubber to increase stiffness a little.. but that's goes together with wheels alignment (caster, camber, toe), springs and shocks, using LSD in gearbox and so on..
it's best to get shocks and springs u like first, then do right wheels alignment (there you can play around a little to get right settings) then choose anti roll bars based on cars handling..

i didn't read whole topic, only last few posts, so all this might be said before..


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 9:57 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 05, 2010 5:56 pm
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Location: Wahiawa, HI
:goodpost:

I'll add to that:

Another way to put it is that a swaybar decreases the grip on the end of the car it is installed, and transfers a bit to the opposite end. If you are a racer then, the way to set up your car properly is to choose the correct spring rates to get the best grip and then tune the handling balance with swaybars. In fact, there are some who believe that the fastest setup does not use swaybars at all, and the idea is that you wouldn't need large ones if you got your spring rates right.

The reason street cars have swaybars at all is that the spring rates that get the best grip for racing are too stiff to be comfortable on the street, so manufacturers add bars to control roll and improve handling without impacting ride quality as much. It is always a compromise, however.

For a Metro/Swift there are a couple of things that are relevant to choosing a bar for a street-driven car:

1. If you are not running an LSD (and you probably aren't) then you need to transfer as much grip as possible to the front wheels.

2. You can't really pick and choose spring rates unless you have a coilover setup (you have some control cutting, but not much) and even aftermarket springs are likely too soft for best grip and transition.

3. Understeer is boring, but it's safe. If you have too much bar in back and not enough in front, you can turn your car into a FWD drift car, which isn't good either.

Given 1 and 2, for a FWD street car I think it's reasonable to install the biggest bar you can in the back first. If you now have a drift car, then add a bar in the front too--though I would try the smallest first so you don't lose the grip you need to hook up coming out of a corner.

If you are racing and can change spring rates, I'd go with just an adjustable bar in the back.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 10:21 am 
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Joined: Sat May 18, 2013 12:48 am
Posts: 170
Location: San Diego CA
Thanks for all the replies guys, Well I do want to do some Autocross once in a while but at the end of the day its a pizza delivery car. I think I will go to the junkyard on 50% sale and get them off a sedan, put those on and see how it works, Ill detach the front bar and see how that runs. I have learned to drive this car with under steer and Throttle steering it on the tight roundabouts, so I will have to take it easy when I install the new bars. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 11:50 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2014 1:18 am
Posts: 212
Location: Slovenia
i have 1991 gti (eu market) with stock springs and shocks, stock bars (22/15mm), torsen style LSD and wheel alignment front: toe 0mm, camber 1° negative, caster stock, rear camber and caster stock, toe 1mm in each wheel and i almost don't have any understeer anymore.. i run 195/45/15 eagle f1 gs-d3 tyres.. but side effects are increased wear on inner side front tyres and outer side on rear..


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2016 11:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2012 11:32 am
Posts: 148
Location: Pennsylvania
Any chance of adding MKI, Sprint bars for the Turbo folks.

My 87 T3 has a front bar and nothing in the rear - but it is a "torsion beam" rear axle.

I thought Hellwig made them, but I can't find that information.
Addco does not appear to make them.


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