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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 1:39 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:08 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Portland Oregon
Hey there! I have been reading through the forums on this site for the last couple weeks and finely decided to make my own post. Lots of good information and awesome nutty builds. On to my questions!!

Recently acquired a 1994 Suzuki swift gt for 350$( buddy owns a tow lot) unfortunately the body is in very rough shape(doors hinges sheet metal screwed to pillar?!?) so I will be swapping the motor and transmission to my swift buggy. Haven't spent a lot of time with it yet( been working 12hr 7pm-7am), but I'm hoping the information I have can help you guys point me in the right direction.

1.3l DOHC, 160k, psi on cylinders cold #1 191 # 2, 3, and 181-183
Full stock exhaust and what appears to be stock everything under the hood, except the for the smeared on silicon around the airflow sensor( any stupid mods someone could have tried?)
Notice distributor has been turn completely counterclockwise to where the top bolt hits the guide.

Problems;
cold star up
-help to feather throttle while cranking over to start
-oil smoke from the get go.
-idles around 3000
-stumbles climbing though rpm
- slight valve tick, sounds like 1 lifter

Operating temperature;
-idle inconsistent will sit around 1700-500, not and steady loop like an intake vacuum leak, but will sit in an upper rpm for a couple minute, drop down to a barely running idle. Sometimes will climb back up by itself, a crack of the throttle will bring rpms back to the 1700 range
-will blow a cloud of smoke past 4000rpm black and blue.
- no load on engine won't climb above 5800-6000, under load clean running till 4500, the hits a large flat spot anything above that.

Random oddities;
-Will blow a gigantic oil smoke cloud, then magically head back to burning a little.
-random shut down under load, rpms drop as oil light comes on


So far all I have done is some fresh premium, injector cleaner, new plugs, and cap.

So what do you guys think? Where should I be starting at?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 3:55 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:08 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Portland Oregon
Couple shots of what this motor will be going into. The old 8 valve that's in it just doesn't have the balls to spin paddles in the sand past 2nd gear. I also read that the Gt transmission has 4.10 diff, should be a different animal

Image Image Image Image


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 12:03 pm 
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Island Inbreeder
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 6:56 pm
Posts: 6347
Location: Emerald city Washington
If i may through this out there
Congrats on the score.
.
this is what you should do before running this motor at all
.
First #1 check that crank key thoroughly before anything eles do't not spend any more time or money till you check your Crankshaft pulley Key way
then if all is good ......replace your timing belt AND idler pulley
.
see how it runs
.
Next I would tear this motor apart and clean those piston ring glans and hone block check for cylinder wall scoring and replace Piston ring
Valve gides,seals,and grind would be at the top of the list
.
Thanks for the pictures Keep us up on your progresss
.
.......jv&s
.
.

_________________
.

t3 ragtop wrote:
the 3 banger isn't at all a "grenade." it's a tough little son of a bitch doing a big job. respect it.
suprf1y wrote:
I didn't save anything.Vehicles are to me, like little boys are to Tommy.Toys to be abused for my own personal pleasure.
jrjd wrote:
"Driving a Swift GTi is like driving a bike in your house".


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2016 9:12 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:08 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Portland Oregon
So you think the woodruff key on the crank pulley may have play in it? Sounds like a good place to start. Unfortunately I haven't found the time to dig any deeper into the mysterious engine yet. Though I have a feeling it is going to be a vavle and lifter problem.

I know machine shop rates are all different, but what would you guys ball park a vavle and seat grind at?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2016 10:41 am 
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Island Inbreeder
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 6:56 pm
Posts: 6347
Location: Emerald city Washington
MY TWO CENT'S
.
This is a very common issue....
I've own 5 Gt & GTI's
3 had crankshaft key way issue
rough idle is the issue in every one of those dizzy crank way over and after idle ran hard at hi RPM
.
rereaDING YOUR POST I think you have muti-issues

But I would check the key way first #1
Then Timing belt
But you deffinetly have Gumed up oil scraper ring glans and poss- valve seat/seals issue
cold air start Valve
TBS bad or needs adjusting
Injectors .?
.
You need to get the compression issue fixed before you can troubleshoot the other Issues
and Ring/Valves is how you start
.
Also Sparkplugs:
the G10B DOHC 1.3 like stock...... Not uradium plugs
.
.
jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
"CARNAGE"
.
give to me straight what do you guy think..??
I'm i shopping for a crank.?
.
Image
.
Image

and this motor pulled hard
should I pull the mig welder out ..??
.

.

.

.
Good luck keep posting
.
.
.......jv&s
.
.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 11:16 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:08 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Portland Oregon
Alright you guys the day has arrived, motor is coming out. Shop is clean and it's time to start cussing at sticky electrical connections.

This is what I'm working with.
Image

Image

Discovered that the air cleaner assembly looks melted and is covered in engine oil. Any thoughts on this? Oil warped the plastic over time? Or maybe intake backfiring?
Image

So the plan for today remove the motor, strip the block, remove the head and see how the rings and cylinder walls are sitting. Will hopefully be posting more pictures later today of what I find.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:04 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:08 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Portland Oregon
What I have found so far
Camshaft/timing belt, tdc #1
Intake camshaft is rotated one tooth farther clockwise than the exhaust cam. Exhaust cam timing mark straight center with bearing caps, intake cam mark is slightly rotated towards exhaust. Water pump looks new could be the reason why.
Image

Cam lobes are in nice shape and under the valve cover is a nice golden color.

Image

Each intake port has soft black carbon build up
Image

Exhaust ports have large carbon layer.
Image

questions to the dual cam 1.3 gods of this site;

Are my camshaft off time?
Could this be why I am burning oil( starting to think vavle seals because compression was between 190-180 and head wasn't packed full of sludge and carbon)(hopeful thinking;)


Alright I'm pulling the head off here soon, unless someone thinks I'm wasting my time.
Help and insight very appreciated, very sorry if I bore you guys


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 10:48 am 
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Suzuki Elder
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11669
Location: columbus, ohio
i doubt that you are boring anyone. :D

my take on this from your description and pics is that you need rings. the carbon shown in the intake ports would come from oil vapor vented from the valve cover. raw gas from the injectors wouldn't create that kind of soot and the twincam has a dry throttle body.

the twincam isn't prone to valve damage except when the timing belt fails. then if you are unlucky the valves collide with the pistons and bend stuff up. the only sort of damage i've seen on twincam heads is cracking between the valves due to over heating along with fried valve seals.

i don't think that the exhaust cam being off the little bit shown in your pic would be the cause of oil burning or a rough idle. do a compression check, wet and dry, and that will tell the tale. :wink:

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 11:13 am 
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Island Inbreeder
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2005 6:56 pm
Posts: 6347
Location: Emerald city Washington
I subscribe to this post
.
.
jv&s
.
.
.
any chance you'll sell parts off the shell.?
.
I'm in need of a set of rear wheel calipers a-frame wheel bearing set up
.
.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 3:10 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:08 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Portland Oregon
Nothing like a bit of blow by to keep you engine running nice and smooth;). I didn't get a chance to take the head off that night (no 8mm Allen socket), so I'm still waiting to figure out a parts list. I'm hoping I can't get by with a dirty old hone job and some new vavle seals.

As for the shell I was going to pull everything gt off the shell and save it for a nice clean body. I have always wanted one of these cars. It's a shame that this one is so beat up( also fould bent frame rail on drivers side) and that I need more horsepower in my swift rail.

I'm still saying that the compression wasn't that bad ;) it has been 100,000 miles sense I've rebuild my 1.3 8v and it's blowing oil out the head and exhaust, runs like a top and sits on rev limiter for hours at a time on the dunes.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 12:19 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:08 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Portland Oregon
Ok heads off and pistons are out. Everything looks to good to be true, though that being said I do not have the tools to accurately measure bore and Pistons.

Crank timing gear and crank with woodruff key(key moves freely in crank key way)
Image

Head and top of Pistons look seem to be in great shape, besides the carbon build up. No vavle contact and everything looks as it should. Head gasket came off pretty dirty in my opinion.
Image

Image

The Pistons seem to be in wonderful shape hardly and vertical lines and can still see the horizontal lines from factory. How far should the oil ring be sticking out from piston? They are currently flush with the piston body itself.

Image

Cylinder walls still show crosshatch.
Image


Well everything seems right internally. Rings look good and it almost appears someone has just put new Pistons in this motor. Will do a water and compressed air test on the vavle tomorrow.

Any thoughts on this?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 9:21 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:08 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Portland Oregon
Well I think I have it figured out. I believe I have stuck and gummed up oil rings. I've soaked them in diesel overnight and the rings now move freely and expand out from the side of the piston.

I also have one leaky exhaust valve on #2 cylinder

Image

Still need to remove valves. I have came to terms that this motor will not be in my swift buggy before sand flea... It's a shame, but I'd rather not do a rush job

Action shot for shits and giggles
Image


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 12:39 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:08 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Portland Oregon
Been a while guys!
I've finely have the body prepared and ready to assemble the motor! Exocage, 2in lift (96 saturn sl2 struts), conpletely gutted......ect...... boring...

https://postimg.org/image/a5xcsiyi3/
The swift

For the motor, new main/rod bearings(tolerances were within), standard rings/hone, head completely gone throuch......ect...gaskets....headbolts....you get the picture..

Currently trying to figure out the cam/timing belt. Anyone have any pointers? How does one hold so many moving parts by them selves? Anyone have any pictures or some personal know how they would like to share?

My event in the dunes is in 9 days... this thing isn't exactly street legal.... how many miles till it is broken in enough for revlimiter?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 4:39 pm 
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Suzuki Elder
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11669
Location: columbus, ohio
if you look at the front of the block between the cam gears you will see 2 threaded holes. i temporarily thread a couple 10mm x .80 40mm long bolts into the holes and use little wooden wedges set between the cam gears and the bolts to hold them in position while i fit the timing belt. :wink:

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 12:58 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:08 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Portland Oregon
Image

Thanks for the tip! It all made sense after you have something to lock it all down.

Motors in. Now I'm sitting here scratching my chin at the electrical and vacuum hoses. I took tons of pictures on my now very broken phone. Information is hard to find online and my Chilton repair manual is better for starting a fire than information on a dohc engine.

So to the dohc 1.3 masters out there;
What is the bare minimum vacuum devices needed to run properly after reaching running temp?

Is this(orangish plug with bright green top now missing 2 vacuum fittings) broken emissions(idk what it is) thingy important? Is the large vavle body behind it the idle control will cold?
Image

For exhaust I was going to run factory manifold, 21/4 pipe, flex pipe, glass pack in the center, and dual yoshimura streetbike glasspacks at the ends. Would this kill all low end torque?

Thanks
Hope to take a decent video for you guys on the sand so you won't think I'm completely nuts.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 1:00 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:08 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Portland Oregon
For those who might run there cars in rally or poke around off road. My strong arm jerry rigged turning brakes work like a dream. Lots of fun, all you need is another full ebrake assembly, beer, and a welder.

Image


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 11:35 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Alberta, Canada
Solenoid with broken fittings is canister purge I believe for emissions and you'll be fine without it.

_________________
1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 4:07 pm 
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Suzuki Elder
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11669
Location: columbus, ohio
the big valve on the back side of the intake manifold is the fast idle solenoid. it is controlled by coolant temperature so it has 2 hoses, in and out. it also has a big "J" shaped hose between the valve and the steel vacuum line.

on my summer driven street car i pulled the valve and replaced it with a blanking plate, capped the big port on the steel vacuum line, and used a bit of steel tubing to connect the coolant hoses.

when i start the engine without the valve now, the idle goes right to its base setting. :wink:

_________________
1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 6:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:08 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Portland Oregon
Will this engine run correctly if I ditch the canister and solenoid?

I will definitely be removing the idle air control valve ( idle would bounce around between 1400-2200 before swap) thanks for the first hand information.

I'be also found this site. Won't let me download the complete manual, but has wonderful information for a dohc noobie.


http://suzukiswift.biz.ht/3EN.html


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 11:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2016 11:08 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Portland Oregon
Bad news.
Buttoned everything up
Fired it up
Ran alright(5min)
Hit running temp
Threw it in gear
Made it about 30ft
Heard terrible sound
Abrupt engine shut down

Push back into the shop. Pull timing cover, belt is staight on intake cam gear, but kicked out a half inch off the exhaust cam. Will not turn over easily by hand. Intake cam appears to still line up with tdc, but exhaust cam is off by 70-90 degrees(rotated forward).

I'm thinking bent vavles, and 2 fuc$$d up pistons.
Any advice for someone who has never touched a dohc engine before.

Sounds like I'm down well over a 1000$ in engine work


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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2017 3:01 am 
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Location: Portland Oregon
Can not make out any sign of vavle to piston touch.

#1 camshaft bearing cap(closest to timing gear) and journal has very deep wear markers and noticable color change. Bearing cap had to be separated from camshaft with a hammer.

I'm about to have long talk with the head shop that requested to set my camshafts. Any words of wisdom?


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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2017 9:25 pm 
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Location: Alberta, Canada
Sure sounds like oil wasn't getting to the head for whatever reason. I assume it did have oil,pressure when running? Maybe a blocked port?

_________________
1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 11:41 am 
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Location: Portland Oregon
That seems to be the case. The intake camshaft is in pretty rough shape too. I was coming off 12 night shifts, then not sleeping trying to finish for my race day. I was 50 something hours no sleep and dumber than a bag of rocks. Would have made it had I taken a couple extra mintues.

My oil pressure switch is bad or my dash light is burnt out.

I cant find an gt oil pump. Is there a difference between a sohc 8/16v and a dohc oil pump?


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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 3:52 pm 
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Posts: 1405
Location: Alberta, Canada
Should be the same pump.

_________________
1995 Swift w/16V 4.39s, 3tech cam, Esteem t-body, Header, needs more.
1995 Gt Mustang "Boss Shinoda" package.
1999 F150 4x4 Supercharged
1967 Mustang 428 auto, never ending expensive project
1993 Civic si h22a, fell in my lap, couldn't resist!


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