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Underbody braces, turbos and more!

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PostPosted: Sun May 21, 2017 11:02 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 19
Location: Nr Sheffield, UK
I've had an "issue" with my G10 engine over the last few weeks.

Twice now, at idle after a cold start its blown the oil filter O ring out sideways and rapidly pumped a lot of the engine oil past it (big puddle on floor). The first time I reluctantly assumed I'd not tightened the filter sufficiently (although the engine has previously run about 2,000 miles on that filter). Having changed the filter and oil, it's only run about 300 miles before doing the same again. I've just had the car recovered on a trailer. The new filter was definitely not loose (until the o ring blew out).

Both times the engine was cold and had been started and was not much above idle rpm. As usual, I've received a lot of "advice" from those who think it's caused by faulty oil filters. I think it's much more likely to be a sticking engine oil pressure relief valve. Looking back, the oil pressure gauge has recently been giving some erratic readings, which bears this out.

I'm trying to source a new oil pump assembly which of course has an integral relief valve. I'm hoping this will fix the problem for good.

In the mean time, I have been building and running engines of all types for almost forty five years and have never seen this before. Is it a known issue on the G10 3 cylinder engine?


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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 10:07 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 19
Location: Nr Sheffield, UK
OK, quite a number of views but no replies.

I've tried to source a new G10 (1.0i) pump assembly here in UK without success. That is, apart from a Suzuki main dealer who offered to sell me one for £247 plus postage plus VAT @20% and he's not even sure if it will fit!

I've done research online and there are a number of similar looking pumps with very slightly different part numbers. The "compatible" lists vary from supplier to supplier.

Can anyone tell me if the pump from a 1.3 or other Suzuki engines will fit the G10?


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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 4:33 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:47 pm
Posts: 11669
Location: columbus, ohio
first off, the oil pump can be disassembled and cleaned. due to their design they rarely wear out.

the g10 and g13 engines share oil pumps. the over pressure bypass is the same 55 psi for both engines.

i buy my replacement oil pumps straight from ebay sellers and they run about $50 to $60 usd.

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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 1:28 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 19
Location: Nr Sheffield, UK
Ragtop, many thanks.

I've dropped the sump, removed the circlip, the spring retainer and the spring from the relief valve. As I suspected, the plunger seems to be jammed solid, in the closed position.

The pump for the 1.3 is listed by my local suppliers and on EBay here in UK, so I should be able to get one if required. I'm going to remove the existing one and take a look inside. I noticed a few small metal flakes in the sump and I need to satisfy myself the pump isn't the cause. There's nothing on the pickup strainer and the engine insides look clean enough, no sludge whatsoever. Obviously, if the plunger is damaged, I'll change the pump anyway.

I'm not looking forward to this, it's a lot of work to access the engine on my car, which isn't a Swift.


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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 8:39 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:17 pm
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Location: Alberta, Canada
I was away for the weekend and never saw this, It is a very rare occurrence but I've seen it once. I did a refresh on an engine and someone else installed it. In this case it would start but then die, and from that point on it would crank over with no compression because it pumped the lifters up so much it held the valves open.
I was in the same boat as you, there was no way to get the relief valve freed up, I installed another pump.

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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 11:24 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 19
Location: Nr Sheffield, UK
Codyb,

Thanks for your reply. I hadn't considered the lifters could pump right up, but it does make sense that they could. On occasions my engine spat back into the inlet manifold. It's likely this is why.

A new pump is almost certainly needed.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2017 12:16 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 19
Location: Nr Sheffield, UK
Bit of an update.

I've sourced a new pump assembly, in the USA and am now waiting for it to be delivered to UK.
The problem I had was that no-one in UK seemed to know the correct part number for the one for my 3 cylinder 1.0 engine, let alone stock one.

My Swift is a later one where the crank sensor was originally installed under and behind the pulley, reading off a toothed plate. The oil pump casting has a hole in the bottom flange where the nose of the sensor passes through it, and so does the flange of the the oil sump/pan. I was offered pumps without the hole in the casting, which do fit the engine and would have been OK in one respect because my crank sensor is now installed in the gearbox bell housing and reads off the edge of the modified flywheel. Unfortunately, I would have also needed the corresponding sump pan, without the hole, because the front edge of the existing sump wouldn't be sealed.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 29, 2017 4:11 pm 
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Location: columbus, ohio
actually, the hole for the crank sensor (ckp) just passed the sensor through the flange of the oil pan and into the cavity outside the front of the oil pump. it doesn't open up into the sump so using the oil pan and pump for the later g10 engine on an earlier g10 engine won't really create any issues. :wink:

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1991 Blue Geo Metro Convertible highly modified 1.0L Turbo3 5 spd. - 1991 Red Geo Metro Convertible customized with a Twincam 5 spd.

My Turbo3 Project
My Cardomain Page -Ol' Blue
My YouTube Channel
My Photo Gallery
SAAB Sonett II


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2017 10:56 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 19
Location: Nr Sheffield, UK
T3, I don't have access to an earlier sump pan. These cars never had a great following here in UK and sadly, most early cars no longer exist. However, as well as the engine in question, dated 2003, I have another Swift from the year 2000 that I often drive instead of my BMW 330D (not in this hot weather though - no aircon). I hardly ever see another on the road.

The sump pan on my 2003 engine obviously has an inset recessed shape at the front face where the vertical body of the sensor sits. With a "straight" non-sensor oil pump casting fitted, half the hole in the sump flange/lip would be exposed to the outside world; hence my need for a matching pump.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 4:41 am 
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Location: Washington, DC
That's strange. Last time I was in Chesterfield (right down the road from Sheffield) you couldn't go anywhere without seeing a Swift, place was crawling with them. That was about five years ago.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 6:42 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 19
Location: Nr Sheffield, UK
Woodie wrote:
That's strange. Last time I was in Chesterfield (right down the road from Sheffield) you couldn't go anywhere without seeing a Swift, place was crawling with them. That was about five years ago.


Not any more, I'm afraid. Unless you disturbed a nest of 'em.. :wink:

I was in Chesterfield five hours ago. didn't see any!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 6:23 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 6:48 am
Posts: 19
Location: Nr Sheffield, UK
My car is now fixed, with the new pump assembly fitted, the oil pressure is now behaving itself again.

There was one small glitch; the steel blanking plug at the end of the main oil gallery leaked after start up. It was screwed in reasonably tightly by the manufacturer, but I had to remove it and wrap the threads in plumbers' PTFE tape to stop oil dribbling out.

Did a 200 mile test run at the weekend.....now all I have to do is to work out why the back axle is dumping a lot of oil out through the breather.


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