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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 8:02 am 
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So my woodruff key on the crank has worn and caused wear to the slot on the crank. Not much but any is not good so I'm looking for repair info / ideas.
I saw a post mentioning no to weld it up but wasn't sure if the key itself was welded in place or used as a guide.
I'm ordering a new cog but could really use some of you're guys experience and suggestions on this.
Thank you
Edd
After inspecting the cam cog it too has some play around the down pin. I assume I can weld it up and file it down?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 11:29 am 
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Location: Alberta, Canada
I have repaired quite a few with just a new key and cog and then maintained the same vehicle for many years after(so was able to monitor the long term of the repair). I find that the key wears only one side of the crank and you can hold it all in place and tighten the crank bolt right up. The bolt should hold it in place, which has been my experience. Replacing the crank is of course the proper fix, but realistically not practical in most cases.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 12:21 pm 
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Yep. It's only worn on one side as u said. Once I get the new cog ,just ordered one,I can see exactly what I got going on. It's easy to get to mine so I could check it easily.
New crank would be great but I'm not thrilled to pull it all out until I'm ready to build the bottom end.
I appreciate the input Def gives me a option other then welding on it and nice to know u have done it and it held up.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 3:38 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2005 2:46 pm
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Location: Arizona
The damage to crank happens on one side because of the AC . Suzuki failed to include in FSM periodic mandatory re torquing of main pulley bolt on cars equipped with AC . Over the years of heat cycles main pulley bolt loosens up and every time AC kicks on it slams the key against one side of the slot until crank is ruined if you do not notice in time. It happens on both Mk1 and Mk2/3 with AC . Just had to build new motor for my Mk3 GTi because of that
Since you don't have AC on your buggy and if damage is slight new key and proper torque should do the trick . Re torque every time you change timing belt


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 4:03 pm 
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Makes perfect sense. After my last rebuild I noticed my pulley loose while I was riding and tightened it up when I got back to the trailer. I now know that is when my damage happened and I just didn't realize it. Been working back and fourth long enough to wear down the cog mounting hole so it wobbles on the crank. I'm thinking about cleaning up the groove and making a small spacer to take up the slack and using some sleeve adhesive to hold the cog tight. I'd have to heat it to remove it though.
I appreciate the ideas and input.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 4:08 pm 
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And im embarrassed to say I never torqued that bolt just tightened it until I thought it was good.
It's the simple mistakes that get ya.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 9:56 pm 
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Location: So Cal, USA
Woodruff key does not take the load, crank pulley torqued to proper spec. will prevent wear.
Believe it or not, it does not take that much. 47-54 ft.lbs.
Turbo guys are lucky, do not need to remove crank bolt for timing belt changes,
the crank pulley comes off w/4 bolts. NA guys need to remove crank bolt to remove pulley.
I use epoxy or JB weld to repair crank simply to center the woodruff, once you torque the
crank timing gear in place, it's the crank bolt that bears the load. Woodruff used for centering
only.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2017 2:53 am 
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Good idea with the jb weld to hold it while installing the cog. It makes sense it dose not actually provide any support. If it did it would just destroy the key immediately.
Thank you as always you're input is appreciated
Edd

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 4:05 pm 
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Took awhile to get to it but got it fixed. Keyway slot was intact enough to hold my woodruff key in place. Woodruff key is oem. New cog is nice and tight,I had to tap it on.
Starts up and runs 100% better. Turns out I also had my valve lash set real loose. I mixed up metric and standard with the feeler gauges.
It's running rich but I messed with the mass air meter last time I was trying to get it to run so tomorrow I will set timing,idle,mass air ect.
I appreciate all the help and input you guys gave me.
Thanks Edd

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 6:48 pm 
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Is your cold start injector hooked up?
That will make it run rich when cold until the timer turns it off.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 4:09 am 
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No cold start injector. I was adjusting the spring and sweeper arm in the mass air meter before I realized my keyway was the issue.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 8:23 am 
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So it runs smoother and quieter then it ever did.
I still think it's a tad rich on the bottom but will play with the mass air sweeper a little more but I could leave it how it is and be happy with it.
It's amazing the difference good valve guides and a properly aligned timing cog can make.
So I'm considering this endeavor done.
Thank you so much for all the advice and input, as usual I couldn't have done it with out it.
Thanks Edd

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