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 Post subject: Security Systems
PostPosted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 8:09 am 
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Now that you guys know how to build a system I guess we should go over protecting it. There are a lot of security systems these days which can make it difficult to choose from. Try to stick with higher end brands though. By far my favorite alarm manufacturer is Clifford. They are owned by DEI which also sells Viper but the difference in the products is still better to the Clifford IMO. Nothing wrong with Viper, but given a choice I would do the Clifford system. If you want something absurdly cheap Clarion's Ungo line of alarms isn't to bad. We installed a ton of them at the shop and they have shown themselves to be reliable. They cost around $299 installed in these parts for the K10.

Standard features that you should be looking for:

-Keyless entry option...shouldn't be a problem...I've never seen one that doesn't do it.

-Minimal: Starter kill. Optimal: Dual stage immobilization. Simply put, it cuts the ignition and the starter. Two point immobilization means it takes more time to steal the car.

-Minimal: Shock sensor. Optimal: Dual stage shock sensor. Bump the car lightlyand the dual stage gives a warning chirp. Hit it a bit harder and it goes to full alarm. Single stage (your minimal option) sensors typically false more because they can't tell the difference between a bus driving by or a baseball bat. 99% of dual stage sensors are adjustable.

-Minimal: 1 remote. Optimal: 2 remotes. I won't go into detail about having a remote die and looking funny getting into a wailing car while your cursing cause' you can't remeber how to get the car into valet mode.

-Minimal: Valet switch. Optimal: Coded valet. All systems have a valet switch. It's there to disable the alarm when you lose a remote at the mall or when you bring the vehicle in for service. Simpler systems use a switch. Better systems have a small pad that makes you enter a code to put it in valet. Do more than 3 times wrong and your locked out of the system for 15 min.

-Try to get the best range possible. At 2AM on the 20th floor it really sucks to have to go downstairs to disarm the system...of course, you may want to go check the car for damage.

-ACG: Anti Code Grabbing. This means that the alarm never recieves the same code twice from the remotes. Code grabbers record the signal coming from your remotes and play it back to the alarm to disarm it. ACG prevents this from happening. Usualy on mid to high end systems but the technology is geting cheaper and it's starting to show up on entry gear.

-Anti car jacking. Your in your car at a stop light. Guy comes up to you with a gun and steals your car leaving you on the street. If he doesn't enter the code in the valet(for instance on a Clifford...different methods on other systems) within a preste time, usualy 15-30 seconds, the starter kill will activate once the car slows down and the siren will sound. The Car will be disabled until the code is entered.

-Remote panic. Nice to have in case of an emergency.

-Auxillary outputs are nice to have if you ever decide to go extreme with your alarm. High end systems have ample. There is a lot of things you can use your alarm to do these days...

-Keyless entry

-Power window rollup

-Autostart capability

-Trunk release

-Air bag suspension control (drops the car when armed)

- Multiple sensors (proxy, dual stage proxy, window break, remote fuel kill, twilight (on some systems), turbo timer ect...)

That's just a few.

-Get a good siren. Most cheap systems have a run of the mill 100-110db siren. You'll want something in the neighbourhood of 115db and up. It needs to be built well too. These things often get nailed by the bat that went though your window and have to survive. It should be mounted in a difficult place to reach.


Your best bet is to make the car a living hell to be in when the alarm is going off. You also want to increase the amount of time the thief has to spend time with the car. Here's a few things that you can do to help. Most of them are options that can be added to existing systems and some are included in higher end systems.

-Pager systems are worth every penny. With ranges in the thousands of feet it will definetly help you notice when your car is being tampered with. The only reason I don't have one is my alarm system has an integrated starter that works with my manual. Most new alarms/starters (that I like) don't start a vehicle with a manual transmission.

-Battery backup for the alarm brain. These are very small and can be placed just a bout anywhere in the car. If they cut power at the battery the alarm still functions.

-Battery backup sirens in the car. Put a relay on the siren output and you can run as many as you want. I have six in my car and it's painful to sit in it. Don't neglect putting a couple on the outside too.

-Piezo sirens in the car will fit where backups won't (like in a heater vent). They are very small and make a very loud shrill in the car. They aren't battery backup though.

-Make sure you have a competent installer. Virtualy any wiring diagram can be had of an alarm system. If the alarm is intalled well it will make it much more difficult to get at. The brain should be hidden way up in the dash and not in plain view. The wires should all be soldered in and no T-taps or butt connectors should be used. The wiring should integrate with the factory wiring. Split loom tubing to cover up the new wiring helps when the theif is looking for the wires running to your sarter and ignition. They aren't looking for alarm diagrams to disable it. It's much easier to get the wiring of the car and follow it to find wires that were added to it.

-Get an old alarm brain and harness. Mount it in a spot under the dash were it will be seen and give some difficulty to get at. This is your decoy brain. They'll spend a little time on it before they figure out they've been duped.

-Glass breakage sensors listen for the sound of glass breaking. They work well when the glass is broken with a punch that doesn't make a shock sesor go off.

-Proximity sensors. Although I've had bad luck with them it doesn't mean you will. They can be worth a try. If it works for your car it's a great addition to the security system. Mine didn't work because I have very dark tint. Tint has metal in it and micrwave sensors don't always like that.

-Use a secondary system for fuel cutoff in addition to any that the alarm offers. Mine will be a simple pressure switch that is either on or off. Hide it well so that they can't find it easy. The pressure switches are paper thin so they are easy to hide.

-This is something I've done in my car that works well. I've installed actuators in the doors for my door locks. After doing so I've taken out the linkage for the door locks to function. Basicaly of my windows are broken they still won't be able to unlock the car and will have to crawl into it if they want it. If you do this you have to remember two things. (1) You need to add a pos. and neg. lead to your battery that is accessible from outside of the car. If your battery ever dies and you can't get power to the alarm your locks won't pop and you won't get into your car. The linkage will be gone in the doors so even CAA won't be able to help you. (2) one or both of your actuators also needs an access point for 12V. It has to be very well hidden and difficult to get to. This one is so that you can pop the locks if the alarm decides to not work someday. You would just need to touch the lead with 12V to pop them and be able to get into the car.

-Hood pins switches should be considered mandatory on any security system. They will protect you if they try to pen the hood first. The pin opens and your alarm goes off. You can also get magnetic or mercury switches for the hatch.

-Use common sense. Don't blast your system for someone to hear it and take interest. Have a flasy install? It's going to eventualy attract the wrong crowd. Remove your faceplate from your deck. Park in well lit areas. Try to keep the car where people would hear something. They may not take notice but a thief doesn't always take that chance. Use a single LED. All the ones that go in the headlights or scan everywhere attract attention. If your car is in a parking lot full of cars and someone drives by and sees all these lights going off they are going to want to see why. With a single LED you have a better chance at being overlooked by a thief.

Those are a few things to consider when you make your purchase. Don't skimp on a cheapo system. After all, the money you spend on it is going to protect a much greater investment.

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Last edited by m on Wed Aug 18, 2004 6:59 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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 Post subject: Basic Security Measures
PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 5:54 am 
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For those not inclined at the moment to install a security system, here's some basics that everyone should do:
Here are some preventative ideas that will either delay or perhaps stop a car thief
  • Remove the linkage to the lock cylinder on the passenger door. And don't just disable it remove it entirely. Theives often will try to gain entry from the passenger side of the vehicle by breaching the lock with a large screwdriver. Sometimes they'll just pry open the whole door handle (which is why you don't want to leave the linkage sitting there). Making the lock useless on that side forces them to either work from the more visible driver's side, or break one of the windows. But he just may move onto another car instead, as he's just wasted time *trying* to get in from the passenger side, but gotten nowhere.
  • Install an ignition/starter/fuel pump/etc. kill switch. You can create a nightmare for a car thief with just $20 worth of toggle switches, relays and wire.
Here are some deterent ideas which may give the illusion that you have security, but otherwise offers no physical protection
  • Install a blinking LED. It should only cost $2-$3 for a two pack from an electronic parts store.
  • Alarm security sticker. If the vehicle was previously equipped with one just leave the old stickers on the windows
Don't look like a target. If at all possible allow potential thieves to see that there is in fact nothing valuable in your car. Don't leave jackets, phones or coins visible. My own vehicle for example has clear windows and an entirely stripped interior. Anyone looking in would clearly see nothing but sheet metal, a squeegie, jumper cables and a map book. If I'm parked in a questionable area, I empty my glove box and leave the door open (See! nothing inside). I do the same with the ash tray. Anyone wondering what kind of stereo I have will be greeted by a plastic water bottle shoved into the DIN opening (sorry don't have a stereo or cup holders no more :wink: )
other threads we've had on vehicle security:
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?p=42222
http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?p=50794

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 8:03 am 
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All good points. I forgot to add in a simple imobilizer. Thanks for catching that ;)

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 Post subject: security
PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2004 12:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2003 12:35 pm
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Location: Barbados
Hi guys just thought i would add my two cents
Found this site with a DIY immobilser
Seems pretty simple
Tell me what you guys think.


http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_0059/article.html


Sorry guys just realized this link was posted before but i guess the is no harm in leaving here.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2004 4:08 am 
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Location: Cloverbush, B.C. eh!
just to pass along, but in BC i do beleive i have read somewhere that it was illeagal to install a remote starter in a manual trans equpiped car. ( no passive starter disable/gear start interlock)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2004 8:09 am 
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That's quite possible. A lot of alarm/starter manufactureers are dropping the manual transmission option because of DIY people installing them improperly and getting ran over in the process.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2004 2:52 pm 
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boy, you'd have to be pretty stupid to get run over by your own car ... that's some bad karma ..
one thing to note, here in BC at least, the insurance companies will give you a good discount on your insurance if you have an imobilizer installed, however i believe your security system has to be installed by a professional .. if you're local, ray/ssgt92, does installs @ a&b sound and IS trustworthy .. i've heard all sorts of horror stories about people getting their security systems installed, coincidently, to have their cars stolen shortly afterwards .. same goes for anyone entering car shows, or getting big systems installed ....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 2:53 am 
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Just like Andre said,you are trying to buy time.Jackers hate to take that long on a car,,unless there are some really good stuff.One point that i should make,request that the installer mount the brain somewhere else than underneath the drivers dash.Most theives look there first,if they know there is a alarm.2nd when they do,,have a set of factory wires from a junkyard to "blend"in with the other factory wires.The power and starter kill(which would have to be a thicker gauge) could be routed in a channel, or a "airbag"line(just make it look like it is a airbag,,but dont run that stuff by there,yellow flex loom with factory markings.)In a nut shell,,"To beat a theif,you have to think like one",,it means if you can easly bypass it,someone else car,,be sneaky.Keep YOUR car YOURS.BTW Multiple sirens do the trick,everywhere,,,, witha relay and FUSED!,,many years ago i had 11 sirens on my competition Geo Metro.See,when people hear a siren,,more than half of them dont pay attention.Make something that is so obnoxious,everyone will look,,multiple brand sirens(like a Alpine siren,a Dei,siren,a Code Alarm siren.)etc so it makes a complete racket.It was kinda funny,mine wouldnt "chirp",,it "Barked",,really loud.Fr dead brains(did u get that from me Andre?) awesome idea,,it buys time.and for battery backup,,a must if u want to keep your car yours.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2004 7:16 am 
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King of Pompous
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Been doing the dead alarm brain for a few years :P. Putting the brain somewhere else is a great Idea but sometimemes can leave long harnesses that are harder to hide. When I say up in the dash I literaly mean it. My alarm brain sits behind my gauge cluster. It's basicaly impossible to get there without taking the cluster out. Battery backup is nearby it too ;).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 9:45 am 
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From what I understand the alarm is hooked up to the door switch that activates the dome light. My question is that on my Mk1 I only have a door switch on the drivers door. There is nothing on the passengers door and nothing for the hatch. What are my best options?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2005 11:38 am 
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You have a couple of ways that you can go actualy. You can have a door switch installed on the passenger fairly easily and get a mercury switch installed on the hatch. DEI used to have a simple contact switch too which could be used for a hatch. You could also do an interior proximity sensor if your alarm allows for it. That way you wouldn't need to bother with the pass. door and hatch....it would monitor the interior so even if somebody stuck their hand throuh the window the alarm would go off.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 12:54 am 
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Well that's a pretty good selection. Thanks m!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 8:07 am 
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well my car is a 5 dr, and when i got it passenger, hatch and rear door switches had been installed so no prob there, they just tapped into the wire from the drivers door switch going to the dome light and ran that wire to the rear hatch, rear doors and passenger door switches, i dont have an alarm yet, but i prepared my negative trigger wire for the alarm, tapped into the drivers door wire, ran it under the side trim, behind the kickpanel, up under the dash and put a crimp butt connector on it, so when i put my alarm in, all ii have to do is attach the door trigger wire to that connector.

oh and an alarm had been wired in b4, what a mess of wiring, soldered and taped in, they had taken the feed from the hot side of the brake switch (which is stupid if the alarm shorts out or sumthing and u lose ur brake lights) the dome/horn circuit is logical or making one by tapping into the white/green 12v+ on the ignition switch harness is ok too.
When I put my alarm in, ill be tapping into the dome/horn circuit.

btw, what is a good aftermarket air filter that will attach to the top of my carby without any mods?


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