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 Post subject: haynes manual
PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2004 1:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 1:20 am
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Location: calgary
do they make a haynes manual or something like that for the swift because I havn't been able to find one anywhere.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2004 11:27 pm 
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Location: Vancouver BC
Haynes Sprint/Geo Metro 1985-1991
ISBN 1 85010 727 0

Chilton GM Sprint/Metro; Suzuki Swift 1985-2000 (#28700)
ISBN 1 56392 427 7 (This one includes GT models.)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2004 12:42 am 
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Location: calgary
hey thanks man, now I will have to go buy one. does anyone know how long it takes to replace a clutch in a swift? and is it pretty simple or can become a pain it the ass.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2004 4:47 am 
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The tranny just drops off the side of the engine, it can be done in a couple hours, including swearing at stuck bolts :lol: . The only PITA part is lifting the tranny yourself if you don't have a transmission jack. More awkward than heavy though.

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jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2004 8:41 am 
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Location: Australia west coast
Drain the oil first.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2004 1:20 pm 
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i know how everyone hates to search, but most of the service manual is hidden here on the teamswift website, ...swift .net/manual/swiftgt_manual.zip
i'm sure you can figure it out

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'92 Swift GT, '94 Swift GT, '88 Turbo Sprint, '98 Swift ... all sold years ago


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2004 6:23 am 
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The electronic version is *heavily* abridged. It covers engine mechanical, brakes, electrical, and driveshaft replacement, but one of the many chapters that are missing is transmission servicing. It's really not that big of a problem though, I figured it out myself just by crawling under the car and looking at which parts bolt to everything else.

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jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2004 5:52 pm 
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I have both the chiltons and the factory suzuki manual and there is no comparison between the two. If you want a detailed manual get a factory one if you want a vague incomplete manual get the haynes or the chiltons. As Lihtan said, changing the tranny isn't that big of deal.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2004 9:38 am 
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keywords: FAQ, tranny, transmission, drop, dropping, removal, remove, removing, torque, torque specs, bolt, bolts, bracket
I made some notes on the procedure for replacing the transmission, considering I had to do it twice
Here's the best order of doing things so you're not going in and out from under the car so much. I also added the size and quantity of the bolts to the best of my knowledge.

Transmission removal (LHD MK2/3 GTi)
===================================================================

• drain transmission (3/8" square drive)
• drain radiator
• loosen lugnuts on front wheels (19mm x4/wheel)
• raise front of vehicle & place on jack stands
• remove battery & tray (bolts may be very rusty) (clamps 10mm x4, bolts 12mm x4)
• remove clutch cable (or remove cable bracket, 12mm x2)
• remove speedo cable (pull clip, slide out)
• remove lower radiator hard pipe bracket from transmission end cap (10mm x2)
• remove lower radiator hose and hard pipe (not necessary, but makes things easier)
• remove shift linkages (watch out for o-rings) (12mm x1, 14mm x1)
• remove shifter brace (14mm x1)
• remove bolts from transmission on driver's side of firewall engine mount (14mm x2)*
• remove both front wheels (19mm x4/wheel)
• remove strut bolts from hub assembly (17mm x2/strut)
• remove intake manifold brace (14mm? x1 nut on top, lower end shares bolts with bearing support)
• remove passenger side driveshaft bearing support (14mm x3)**
• compress springs to take tension off strut assembly (use a spring compressor, this only applies if the vehicle still has stock springs)
• remove driver's side hub assembly from ball joint (14mm x2)
• remove both driveshafts (pry against tripod shell/diff housing, take care not damage seals from prying or pulling the shafts out)
• remove driver's side splash shield (numerous push clips)
• remove battery wire from starter (12mm x1)
• unplug solenoid wire from starter
• remove starter from bellhousing (12mm x2)
• remove entire driver's side engine mount (main bolts 14mm x5, cage bolts 12mm x3)
• remove flywheel inspection plate (10mm x?)
• remove transmission bellhousing bolts & nut (14mm x5)
• slide transmission off engine

• remove pressure plate bolts (12mm x6)
===================================================================

oil drain plug: 13.5 - 16.5 lb ft
oil filler bolt: 13.5 - 16.5 lb ft
center bearing support bolt: 29.0 - 43.0 lb ft
pressure plate bolts: 13.5 - 20.0 lb-ft

Gear oil: API GL-4, SAE 75W/80-85, 80W, 80W/90, 90 or GM Synchromesh (2.4 liters)

(torque specs include revised numbers from the Suzuki TSBs)


* 3 cylinder rear engine mounts don't have separate engine and tranny mounting bolts. The whole thing needs to come out, also the engine will need to be supported as well
** 3 cylinder passenger side driveshaft does not have a bearing support block bolted to the engine

[EDIT] revised removal procedure x2, added keywords, added 3 cyl differences

_________________
jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


Last edited by Lihtan on Mon Aug 27, 2007 5:03 am, edited 4 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2004 1:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 1:20 am
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Location: calgary
wow Lithan that is more than I ever expected. I know that it will not be to hard at all I just like to have somesort of direction on what needs to go and stay.


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