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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2005 3:38 pm 
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Location: charlotte, NC
Had it out to get it welded. This is like the second time I've had to put the tranny back in, and I cannot remember if I'm forgeting something.

First attempt I struggled with it for several hours, pulled it back out, and found the throwout bearing had been pushed off it's shaft and was dangling. I guessed I had hit the clutch arm on top of the tranny during my struggles.
So, I removed the arm for the second attempt. I got the right side axle in, and the tranny is so close, just inches from mating up to the engine.
I have one spark plug out, and am inching the flywheel back and forth to mate the splines?

Is this right? I have checked many times and nothing on the outside is keeping it from sealing.
matt

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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2005 6:58 pm 
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zooracers wrote:
I have one spark plug out, and am inching the flywheel back and forth to mate the splines?


make sure the trans is in a high gear and the trans is not pushing hard on the engine. otherwise you will just spin the input of the trans with the flywheel. also make sure your clutch disk is centered and you are in the pilot bearing. if the engine is not parallel with the trans the input shaft will not go into the pilot bearing. good luck :!: :)

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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2005 11:49 pm 
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zooracers wrote:
So, I removed the arm for the second attempt.


Ditto, luckily I figured this one out before I started trying to muscle it back in.

tuffcarguy wrote:
...also make sure your clutch disk is centered and you are in the pilot bearing. if the engine is not parallel with the trans the input shaft will not go into the pilot bearing. good luck :!: :)


Yep, this is what i thought too. I made absolutely sure that the disc was aligned before I started torquing down the cover bolts and withdrew the tool. Did you do anything with the clutch while the tranny was out? I guess it should stay aligned if you didn't touch it. What about the pilot bearing? You sure it's still in place?

Also, what about those bolt hole sleeves that protrude out in a few spots on the bellhousing? I also didn't have to worry about the intermediate shaft as I had that out. Are you sure the splines are ligned up for it?

I think the closest I got before the input shaft made contact with the clutch disc, the mating surfaces were only about one inch apart. Several inches makes it sound like something else big may be in the way.

Either way g'luck. I know I was cursing for awhile before everything came together.

-J


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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2005 6:31 am 
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Why do you have the axle in? (or do you just mean the little extension)?

In anycase, worry about that after the tranny is bolted up.

Make darn sure that the clutch disk is centered. I've found that the chease blow molded alignment tools are terrible. Last clutch I did, I machined my own alignement tool to exacting specifications and the tranny literally slid right on.

If you have to use the plastic alignment tools, the weight of the clutch disk can be enough to distort the tool. I usually pick the end of the tool up about an 1/8" before tightening the pressure plate to compensate for this droop.

It's no fun, but you'll get it. I still question the clowns on this board that claim they can swap a tranny in 20 minutes.....

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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2005 7:59 am 
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Location: charlotte, NC
going out to work on it as we speak,
I had the right axle in because it was hitting the tranny and I couldnt tie it off anywhere so that it wouldnt. Seemed to impede my progress...
I never did remove the clutch, as it's only a few races old (and road racing is easy on clutch's), so that is one headache I dont have at the moment.
I will let you know how it goes today.
thx for all the advice
matt

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89 swift GTI campaigned in SCCA ITB
meaning, mostly stock motor, except for certain modifications allowed like headers/exhaust, ECU chip, .5 point compression increase, .040 over, underdrive pulleys, port/polish head 1" in, etc.


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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 7:41 am 
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I've done this a few times now, here's my advice:
• Remove the lower radiator hose, it will annoy the hell out you when you try to lift the tranny back in.
• Keep the driveshafts well away from the tranny. I usually disconnect the struts and the ball joint and put the entire hub assembly aside.
• Watch out for those little alignment bushings if you're installing a different transmission. Twice now I've had two of them try both on mating parts trying to interfere with each other.
• The back of the tranny has a stud that needs to go into the block
• Depending on how your exhaust is setup, the torque rod can either be pushed aside next to the cat, or it needs to attached just before the tranny is slid into place.
• Make sure you have a decent clutch alignment tool. I actually use the input shaft from my old tranny.
• When you're lifting the tranny into place. DO NOT handle it with the clutch release arm, this will push the throwout bearing out of position, and cause you much misery.
• Build a transmission cradle. Having your tranny aligned straight and level before you lift into place is immensely useful. I made mine with a jigsaw and a couple of scrap 2x10s.
• A dry tranny weighs 54 lbs. Just thought you'd like to know that. :wink:

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Last edited by Lihtan on Wed Jan 02, 2008 12:44 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2005 4:37 am 
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tuffcarguy wrote:
make sure the trans is in a high gear and the trans is not pushing hard on the engine.
What gear are you talking about ?? 5th gear ??


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2005 12:14 pm 
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yea 5th gear. it helps to keep the input shaft from spinning while turning the crankshaft.

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 Post subject: Tranny/Clutch
PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 2:06 am 
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I would have just taken that part off too. Not that I havent done that 4 times. Too much practice. 4 clutches in 9 mo. DON'T ASK.

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 Post subject: Re: Tranny/Clutch
PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 8:24 pm 
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Cyndi617 wrote:
...4 clutches in 9 mo. DON'T ASK.

Lemme guess: you don't like hills... :lol:

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maybe a picture Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 6:06 am 
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Location: Central Coast NSW
strangest and simplest clutch alignment tool. its called a broomstick handle. all i did was chop off about 15 cms and then turned it as i ground it down to the size of the spiggot bearing then ground down the part next to it to the size of my old clutch plate. it worked a dream


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 Post subject: mmm
PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:10 am 
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make sure the tranny isnt hitting the rear engine mount at the back, some gtis i have worked on recently have been hitting there and had to lever it on a little.. as someone else said above make sure the extra stud that the gti box has goes into the hole its meant to, make sure driveshafts are out of the way and starter motor and plate are out of the way... if you didnt touch the clutch plate it will be fine where it is..

other than that just jiggle the shit out of it til it slides in...


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:26 pm 
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I've done the many GTi tranny's and metro tranny's and I've found the stud that goes throught the engine block under the starter, remove it.... once that is out u can literally move the tranny side to side (not an inch when the studs in and it takes hours been there done that too many times) to easily mate the input shaft spline with the clutch disk, once the shaft is in the clutch, align the dowels and bolt up the tranny to the block, put the stud back in and tighten it up.

hope that helps u out. :D

Steve.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 4:01 pm 
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Jeezus it's hard to get a tranny put back in. This isn't my first time installing one of these trannys and every time I've had a horrible time to get everything to line up. It's frustrating, I tell ya.

I'll be back at it again tonight to see how I fare.


Chris


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 Post subject: aligning transmission
PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 5:31 pm 
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I had one that absoloutely refused to go in. How i finally got it was realigned the disc, had the transmission in gear and straight on the shaft, and it looked like it should have been easy, took 2 people one person pushing the transmission into place,other person turned the crankshaft pulley with a socket,it popped in so easy when we turned the crank just a tiny bit,yet everything looked perfect.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 24, 2006 3:53 am 
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I've been known to go through my whole vocabulary of profanity while trying to wrestle a tranny back onto the engine. The last time I had to do it, I took some time to make a nice wooden tranny cradle out of some scrap 2x4s. Now when I slide the tranny under the engine bay, it's sitting straight and level. I lifted it off the cradle, and it slid right onto the engine on my first try! :shock: It never did that before!

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jaguar,vettes&sprints wrote:
...can you inlighten me about lihtan's
( miracle pour hole)
maybe a picture Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 5:35 pm 
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Found an 'easy' way to get the transmission to slide on today.

Loosened the pressure plate and then hung my head down inside the engine compartment and eyeballed the sprung part of the clutch disc in comparison to the inside diameter of the pressure plate and centered it that way. I left enough pressure on the clutch disc to keep it from sliding around when I let go of the centering tool (and you probably wouldn't even need the tool doing the adjustments this way).

And yes, the plastic tool is pretty much completely useless on it's own unless you expect to be lucky enough to get the clutch plate centered the first time.

Used a wood crate to sit the transmission on before sliding it into place... seems to me that some sort of decent support under the tranny is essential. A jack just won't cut it.


Chris


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 Post subject: trans install
PostPosted: Sat Apr 29, 2006 5:33 am 
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i dont have a gti ,but i also know the words lihtan was talking about :twisted: I line the clutch up with a tool, then screw 3 long
alignment bolts (heads cut off) into motor's threaded holes. the trans goes on easily as it stays lined up.
--pic of bolt

Image

good luck :)


Last edited by 87t1 on Thu May 25, 2006 4:55 am, edited 3 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 21, 2006 2:52 pm 
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Location: corvallis,oregon
i put a used engine in when i was swaping clutches becuse my old engine smoked like a chimney. any ways i just tipped the motor on to the crank pully and picked up th trany and set it on there! and was done. i was so shocked i was like now why cant they go on that easy when there in the car damn it!


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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2006 12:37 am 
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IF you haven't gotten it in by now, it helps to get the bolt that sticks out on the rightside of the tranny to go into the hole of the block first put a nut on the end making sure you get a few threads on first, it should than be easier to wiggle the input shaft in, once its in, you can than align the top 2 holes on the tranny and put the bolts in but only a little, than working on the forth thats on the bottom left near the exhaust, making sure that you have an even gap all around the tranny. Tightening each a little at a time till your snug around. I did it 3 times this last week, i hope it works for you.

i had troubles doing it with three people and a hydraulic lift on the 3rd time putting it in. i was able to do it myself all three times installing it, so good luck :) takes time and patience haha

mike

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 12:36 am 
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i did my tranny today also dropped a tranny out of my parts swift then dropped the bad tranny out of my swift and put the good one in. but anyways to my point i know this stud u guys are talking about and i know mine doesnt have it is it necessary to put this stud and nut on? is their more stress on other parts without this stud? i ran many tranny's with out it. Also if u have a lower stabalizer bar remove it before dropping the tranny it makes the job a tad harder.

alex


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 9:26 pm 
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Location: Auburn Wa
Heres how I center the clutch disc with a crappy alignment tool.

Install the preasure plate and clutch disc. Tighten the bolts finger tight so the cluch disc can still move around with a little preasure applied in a circular motion with the cluch alignment tool. Center the clutch alignment tool within the circle you made moving the disc around with the clutch alignment tool. Tighten and torque the preasure plate bolts. The transmission should slide in pretty easily now! You may need to twist the transmission slightly clockwise or counter clockwise a smidge to get the input shaft splines to go into the clutch disc splines.

Works on all cars I have ever done a clutch on!

Remember to grease the throw out bearing shaft the bearing slides on and don't get any grease or fingerprints on your cluch disc or the flywheel. A very very light grease on the splines of the input shaft of the transmission is desirable.

To grease the input shaft properly...

Apply a litium based grease to it before putting the transmission in. Wipe off all excess grease with a clean rag. This will apply the smallest amount of grease into the pores of the metal and help prevent rusting of the shaft! You grease it for corrosion protection not for allowing the disc to float freely. If you use too much grease it will probably melt/liquify and end up on your disc friction surface, from centrifical motion of the rotating disc/shaft.

My hot tips :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 11:23 pm 
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Vert Guy wrote:
You may need to twist the transmission slightly clockwise or counter clockwise a smidge to get the input shaft splines to go into the clutch disc splines.


also make sure the trans is in gear , so the input shaft will rotate with the trans as its twisted. :)

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 1:23 pm 
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bitch bitch bitch haha, you should have heard me swearing when I was trying to mate my SM465/NP205 to my 350. For those who don't get the reference, an SM465 is a chevy 4 speed std tranny and an NP205 is a selectable transfer case that is 100% gear driven and cast iron.. both units together weigh about 250-300lbs. I worked for three hours trying to mate it before ripping it all off again and finding that my pilot bearing wasn't in far enough <roll eyes>

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