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 Post subject: how to take rotors off
PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 11:59 am 
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Location: Oklahoma
I was wondering how you take the rotors off a 91 gti? Mine are warpped and I cant figure out how they are on there! It was easy on my prelude but i cant seem to figure it out on my swift. Do I have to take off the axle to do it? That seems a little extreme for some rotors. Any help would be nice.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 12:21 pm 
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Sounds like they are rusted on. Start with a hammer.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 12:27 pm 
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Daley wrote:
...Start with a hammer.

Take those little Phillips head screws out first. They're probably rusted too. Liquid Wrench, torch, impact gun...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 2:00 pm 
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there r no screws on my rotors...... prehaps that is my problem

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 2:13 pm 
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what size r those screws so I can go buy some

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 3:49 pm 
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If the rotors have ever been replaced on the car with wagner/monroe premium rotors, you probably don't have the holes in the rotors just like my old sprint turbo. You simply slide the new rotor onto the hub, put the caliper and pads back on, then tighten the wheel. This may be your problem. As some people have mentioned, it could simply be rusted on very well (had the same prob with my parts car a little while back). :dunno: Hope this helps a bit.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 4:08 pm 
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Lihtan wrote:
Daley wrote:
...Start with a hammer.

Take those little Phillips head screws out first. They're probably rusted too. Liquid Wrench, torch, impact gun...


Most of those never make it back on after the first brake job, hence the first suggestion of the hammer.. :P


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 5:26 pm 
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acctually, theres a really neat trick to the fronts...

there should be 4 holes on the platued part of the rotor... where the studs pop out from.

two of the holes whould have philips head screwes in them.
take out the screws, if there are any.
then the remaning holes are used to push the rotor off the hub.

find a bolt that is and inch long that threads into the two holes, and get two and start tightning one at a time, about half a turn each when they start to get tight.
slowly but surely they will break the rust and push the rotor off.

hope it helps!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2005 8:52 pm 
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ok thanks for all the tips. Ive been busy lately and havent had time to go replace my rotors yet so hopefully tomorrow when I get off work I can do it.

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 Post subject: Brake Rotor Removal
PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2005 7:33 am 
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Location: St Petersburg, Florida
Hammer is a good tool to break the rust. Get some PB Blaster at your
local auto parts house and soak the area around the center and at every
stud. At the same auto parts house pick up a set of 8mm bolts (NAPA #
2801-108) and thread these in two of the holes (factory tapped). By gently
screwing them in a little at a time, along with the hammer, the disc should
start to come off. They will not come off by hammer alone. Thats the reason for the tapped holes. Good Luck!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 1:47 am 
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HiTempguy wrote:
wagner/monroe premium rotors


you work at Canadian Tire don't you? lol

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 2:29 am 
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Mustard wrote:
acctually, theres a really neat trick to the fronts...

there should be 4 holes on the platued part of the rotor... where the studs pop out from.

two of the holes whould have philips head screwes in them.
take out the screws, if there are any.
then the remaning holes are used to push the rotor off the hub.

find a bolt that is and inch long that threads into the two holes, and get two and start tightning one at a time, about half a turn each when they start to get tight.
slowly but surely they will break the rust and push the rotor off.

hope it helps!

:clap: :werd: :goodpost:

Mustard IS THE MAN!. Right on the button. If, in the event of the philips head screws rounding out, they will snap right out. I always replace them, but I guess thats open to negotiation.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 7:51 am 
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Yeah, you need a impact screwdriver to take these phillips bolt out. Most of the time they are seized in place or the head will strip. Whenever it hapen, I just take a drill with 1/4" bit to revome the head. When the rotor is removed you can take the rest of the screw out by using vise-grips.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 8:15 am 
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ChrisGT, yes, I do work at Canadian Tire. When I got my new rotors, the four phillip screw holes weren't there to push the rotor off/hold the rotor on. So if they have been changed, there is a chance the reason skatr didn't notice is because they aren't there :shock:

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You have a girlfriend? :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 8:21 am 
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Jardamuth wrote:
Yeah, you need a impact screwdriver to take these phillips bolt out.


Impact screwdrivers are AMAZING.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 9:52 pm 
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Daley wrote:
Jardamuth wrote:
Yeah, you need a impact screwdriver to take these phillips bolt out.


Impact screwdrivers are AMAZING.


Can't live without them. I had some car years ago with the phillips screws and the impact screwdriver got 'em out without stripping the heads. Seems that the shock of the hammer blow on the impact cracks the rust loose and the killer torque developed spins 'em loose in a couple hits.

Mike


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2005 9:28 pm 
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Used a hammer to take em off....couldnt bolt the hub back on because I didnt have enough thread on the 30 MM nut- used a sledgehammer and a 2x4 to take the impact, went in with 10 good hits perfectly :razz:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 3:35 pm 
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Location: Wayne, New Jersey 07470
My rear disks were frozen. I should have thought of using the 8mm bolts AND a hammer.

The 8mm bolts just snapped off and the disk didn't move a bit. I never had that kind of problem on any other car before.

Anyway, I was replacing the wheel studs so I didn't actually need to remove the disks.

When I want to remove the rear disks, I'll remove the whole hub and have them pressed off. I think it's a 38mm nut on the rear hubs?

ed


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 8:25 pm 
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I had a hell of a time trying to get my rotors off, I tried hammers, and pry bars, all kinds of stuff, it was futile. Then I read the above post and read it wrong, I thought the two philips head screws were the size I needed to pop off the rotor. So I went to the hardware store with that bolt and got two more, to try and use in those holes. To my dismay those two screws are only used to hold the rotor in place while getting the caliper and wheel back on. It's the other two holes that you need bolts for (the 2 of the 4 that don't have philips head bolts in them). So now I have my car jacked up both wheels off, and I don't know what size bolt to use to pop my rotors off, so I start looking around at the bolts I have, nothing works, then out of pure luck I discover that the bolt holding my front (and rear) sway bar bushings, have the right thread and pitch, and are a perfect fit. They worked just right, and I had my rotors off in no time. I don't know if this trick will work for all cars, but it worked on my 96 north american LSi. So if you're looking for a bolt to pop off your rotors, try those.

-Chris

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