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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 2:43 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2005 8:28 am
Posts: 220
Location: Frankfurt Germany
Those 1.0L owners wanting better economy for long-distance driving may want to put a transmission out of a 1.3L-8V G13A (SF413) into their SF310 car (1.0 3-cylinder). Those mainly running the car within urban areas avoiding highways will not want to do this gas-saving mod! Folks in very mountainous areas may not want to do it either. If you do a lot of highway driving, this is for you!
This mod lowers rpm's on the highway by about 20%, and consequently saves about 7% - 10% fuel at 60-75 mph depending on speed.

You will need three parts from a 1.3L 8V car to put into your 1.0L model:
1) A transmission out of a SF413 (1.3L with G13A engine).
2) The "extension rod" out of the SF413 car. This is the shaft connecting the bottom of the gear-lever with the transmission. Official Suzuki part name and number is "rod extension" 28260-60B02
3) The rod running parallel and located right next to the above mentioned extension rod. It is attached to the body by four bolts on the underside next to the gearlever, and to the outer casing of the gearbox next to where the extension rod ends. Official Suzuki name and part number: "shaft control" 28250-63B01 Note: The point of attachment for this rod onto the gearbox is somwehat different depending on which sort of gearbox it is attached to! Btw:This is the only externally visible difference between both sorts of gearbox! On the 1.0L it is attached to a studbolt to the right upper of the "extension rod", on the 1.3L gearbox it is attached to a studbolt going to the differential-housing to the left of the extension rod. If this doesn't seem to make sense now, it will when laying the gearboxes next to each other!

Switching the gearbox:
I assume you already have removed the three parts listed above out of an old SF413 (1.3L 8V Swift, G13A). Switching these parts from the 1.3L into the SF310 (1.0L G10A) is much easier than removing them from the SF413, because there is much more room and subsequently less stuff being needed to be taken off. Obviously the gearbox of the SF310 needs to be removed first. Essentially this is similar to removing it from the 1.3, but on your 1.0L you will not need to physically remove the battery and battery holder or the radiator and water hoses. Otherwise follow the well-known instructions that apply to the 1.3L car. On the 1.0L car, it is possible to leave the right-hand wheel and driveshaft in place when removing/installing the drained gearbox, but in that case you must be cautious and experienced.
All of the original engine and gearbox mounts from the 1.0L car need to be re-used in the 1.0L car with the "new" 1.3L gearbox!
The "extension rod" and "control shaft" (see above) belong only to the particular type of gearbox they were made for, and will certainly not fit on the other (wrong) type of gearbox!

Recommendation: While you are at it, you might want to consider replacing the clutch as well. Oil: For good economy, easy shifting, low noise and long life, you would want to use 2.4Litres of SAE 75W-90 / GL5. Lower quality than GL5 ( GL4 is lower) and wrong viscosities are not worth the troubles they cause!
Good Luck!
Helmut


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 3:45 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 4:52 pm
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Location: Eastern Ontario
Great thread, Helmut. I should have offered to do this after my swap. :(

FYI, I kept the original shifter rod & shaft from my 1.0 setup when I did my swap. I believe the difference in my case (perhaps it's different on your car) is that the rod which mounts directly to the transaxle case goes to a different bolt hole (though the hole exists for both mounting points on both transmissions). In my case, the only part I changed was the transmission itself; everything else swapped over.

I hope this doesn't confuse matters.

Also, coincidentally, I was looking at my figures again recently and realized I made a pretty fundamental mistake when I claimed an 8.8% improvement from the new transmission: the MPG figures I used to compare before & after were collected on days with very different temperatures: 58 degrees F vs around 80 F.

That temperature difference alone will account for a significant portion of the 8.8% difference I mentioned.

I have collected some better figures, and I think the difference is closer to 5 or 6% - still very worth doing (in my opinion). I will update my original swap thread with the corrected figures soon.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 2:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 15, 2005 7:41 pm
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Location: PA
So, the 3cyl engine will bolt right up to the 4cyl trans, right? What is the difference ratio-wise? i found a 3.52 trans that im going to put into my 91 3cyl metro. i would imagine that would suffice.
btw-i usually only see the 4cyl metros with an automatic...


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 3:33 pm 
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Location: Frankfurt Germany
Loook futher down for the thread "Transmission Gear Ratios" maybe it should be sticky.
Helmut.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 6:51 pm 
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Location: Eastern Ontario
How hard would it be to swap the final drives if you find your housings don't match in terms of the stud locations for the control rod? The gear ratios are the same if I recall.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 1:45 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2005 1:32 am
Posts: 254
Location: Kitchener, ON
Would just like to mention regarding gear oil.

GL4 is not a lower quality compared to GL5. It has a lower amount of EP additives. See this post:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ ... ber=745539

You should be using a GL4 oil (or GM/Pennzoil Synchromesh) in the manual transmissions due to the brass synchro rings. My GM manuals list GM 12345836 (1992) & 12345349 (1990) for the manual transmission.

The ..349 is a 'sychromesh 75W' oil that updates to 89021808 Synchromesh at $9.60 / litre CDN

The ..836 is a 'synthetic gear lubricant' updates to 89021678 75w90 Synthetic Axle Lubricant at $16 / litre CDN

Take your pick, or mix it 50/50?


Info:
http://www.pennzoil.com/products/gear_o ... 090g4.html
http://www.pennzoil.com/products/gear_o ... fluid.html


Cross-reference lists:
http://www.royalpurple.com/techa/tranxref.html
http://www.amsoil.com/products/transmis ... d_rec.aspx


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 5:27 pm 
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Location: Eastern Ontario
Helmut, did you get your transmission swap completed? How much did your fuel consumption change?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 7:15 am 
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I am currently looking to do this change but am not sure I fully trust junkyards to have the gearbox with the ratio I want. Is there a way to ID a box with a 3.52 fd ? I thought about turning the input shaft in a known gear and counting the output shaft revs, but am not sure I would know how to select a known gear. If the car is still around that it came out of, the RPO tag should give the final drive right? I'll just have to find out what that code is.

I'm just trying to get things straight.
As long as it is a 5spd and it was originally bolted to a 1.3L sohc engine from any year, it should be the 3.52 that will bolt to my 1.0L right?

thanks

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94 geo metro 1.0L 3cyl 5speed, 4 door hatch
best tank, 81.22 U.S. mpg
90 day ave, 69.23 U.S. mpg
longest range on 1 tank, 790 miles
(click below to see more info on my car, including a gas log)
http://www.gassavers.org/garage/view/272


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 12:57 am 
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jwxr7 wrote:
Is there a way to ID a box with a 3.52 fd ?


http://www.teamswift.net/viewtopic.php?t=26469

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1994 Metro - MPH project (getting a DOHC G13B)
1994 Metro - MPG project (getting an XFi G10)
1992 Swift - Parts car (gone)
1991 Swift - Parts car (gone)
1990 Swift - Parts car
1997 Metro - Parts car (gone)
1993 Metro - Parts car
1989 Swift GTi - Parts car
1998 Metro - Parts car


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 7:35 am 
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Location: mid michigan
thanks, I'll test this on my 4.1 box.

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jamie
94 geo metro 1.0L 3cyl 5speed, 4 door hatch
best tank, 81.22 U.S. mpg
90 day ave, 69.23 U.S. mpg
longest range on 1 tank, 790 miles
(click below to see more info on my car, including a gas log)
http://www.gassavers.org/garage/view/272


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 1:24 pm 
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I found what I thought was the trans i was after, but on the phone i had the guy verfy the ratio. He said it had a 3.95 final drive. It is a 1992 metro with a 1.3L 4 cyl. Does this sound right? I thought they would have the 3.52 in them if they had the 1.3L. I can't find any swifts in my area and metros with 4cyl are very rare before 1995 :(.

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jamie
94 geo metro 1.0L 3cyl 5speed, 4 door hatch
best tank, 81.22 U.S. mpg
90 day ave, 69.23 U.S. mpg
longest range on 1 tank, 790 miles
(click below to see more info on my car, including a gas log)
http://www.gassavers.org/garage/view/272


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 5:41 am 
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Location: New York State
jwxr7 wrote:
metros with 4cyl are very rare before 1995 :(.

Metros weren't sold with a 4-cyl in the US prior to the '95 model year. I have a spare 3.52 final drive with chipped teeth if you're really desperate.

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1994 Metro - MPH project (getting a DOHC G13B)
1994 Metro - MPG project (getting an XFi G10)
1992 Swift - Parts car (gone)
1991 Swift - Parts car (gone)
1990 Swift - Parts car
1997 Metro - Parts car (gone)
1993 Metro - Parts car
1989 Swift GTi - Parts car
1998 Metro - Parts car


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 5:59 pm 
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Gasoline Fumes wrote:
jwxr7 wrote:
metros with 4cyl are very rare before 1995 :(.

Metros weren't sold with a 4-cyl in the US prior to the '95 model year. I have a spare 3.52 final drive with chipped teeth if you're really desperate.
That's what I thought, the ones in detroit are probably from canada. I found a couple swift trannys in ohio from sohc 1.3L for good prices. I'm trying to verify the ratio now.

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jamie
94 geo metro 1.0L 3cyl 5speed, 4 door hatch
best tank, 81.22 U.S. mpg
90 day ave, 69.23 U.S. mpg
longest range on 1 tank, 790 miles
(click below to see more info on my car, including a gas log)
http://www.gassavers.org/garage/view/272


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 4:07 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2005 10:48 pm
Posts: 471
Location: Auburn Wa
Pretty sure the metro 1.3 and the swift sohc 8 valve, transmissions are one in the same as far as gear ratios go!

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